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THE  COAL  TAR  COLOURS 

OF 

FARBWERKE 

VORM. 

MEISTER  LUCIUS  &  BRUNING 
HOECHSTON  MAIN 

GERMANY 
AND  THEIR 

APPLICATION  IN  WOOL  DYEING. 

FIRST  VOLUME. 


SOLE  AGENTS  FOR  THE  U.  S.  A. 

H.  A.  METZ  &  CO: 

NEW  YORK  PROVIDENCE,  R.  I.  ATLANTA,  GA. 

BOSTON,  MASS.  CHICAGO,  ILLS.  NEWARK,  N.  J. 

PHILADELPHIA,  PA.  CHARLOTTE,  N.  C.  MONTREAL-CANADA. 

==^=^=^=  1910.  = 


1C99 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2010  with  funding  from 

NCSU  Libraries 


http://www.archive.org/details/coaltarcoloursof01meis 


PREFACE. 


in  1896,  we  published  a  small  volume  entitled,  "The  Coal  Tar  Colours  of  Farb- 
werke  vorm.  Meister  Lucius  &  Brlining,"  which  contained  a  survey  of  the  dyestufifs 
produced  by  us  at  that  time,  arid  of  their  application.  Several  years  later  we 
supplemented  this  work  by  our  'Tocket  Manual". 

Since  then  both  the  Textile  and  the  Coal  Tar  Colour  Industries  have  under- 
gone such  rapid  development,  and  the  number  of  dyestuffs  has  increased  to  such 
an  extent  that  these  earlier  publications  must  in  many  respects  be  considered 
obsolete. 

In  placing  this  new  work  before  our  friends,  we  beg  to  point  out  that  it 
has  been  our  endeavour  to  offer  a  comprehensive  and  up-to-date  survey  of  our 
products  used  for  the  purposes  of  wool  dyeing. 

We  have  divided  this  work  into  three  parts.  The  first  part  contains  in 
tabulated  form,  patterns  of  our  standard  wool  colours,  short  notes  on  their  appli- 
cation, and  their  fastness  properties;  in  the  second  part  the  methods  of  wool  dyeing 
are  discussed  in  general,  and  the  third  part  deals  with  the  practical  application  of 
these  dyestuffs  for  the  various  purposes  of  the  industry,  and  is  sub-divided  according 
to  the  various  stages  of  manufacture,  viz;  the  dyeing  of  loose  material,  slubbing, 
yarn  and  pieces. 

In  some  cases  repetitions  could  not  be  avoided,  as  it  was  our  aim  to  make 
each  chapter  complete  in  itself,  and  thereby  to  increase  the  value  of  the  work  as 
a  book  of  reference  for  everyday  use. 

The  wide  experience  gained  in  the  constant  intercourse  and  co-operation 
with  our  clients,  has  greatly  assisted  us  in  the  compilation  of  this  work,  and  we 
hope  it  will  be  a  valuable  and  reliable  guide  for  every  wool  dyer  in  the  pursuit 
of  his  calling. 


HOECHST  o.  M.,  1910. 


FARBWERKE 

VORMALS 

MEISTER  LUCIUS  &  BRUNING. 


Contents  of  the  first  volume. 

Part  I.     Tabulated  survey  of  the  DyestufFs  used  in  wool  dyeing.  p^  ^ 

Explanatory   notes   as   regards   fastness   properties 3—12 

Patterns,  application,  and  fastness  proper  ties  of  wool  colours  14 — 109 

Acid  Colours  (Acid,  Allcali  Blue,   Azo  and  Dianil   Colours) 14 — 71 

Resorcine  Colours 72  —  73 

Basic  Colours 74—79 

Developing  Colours 80 — 97 

Alizarine  and  Mordant  Colours 98 — 109 

Indigo 108—109 

Part  II.     The  general  methods  of  wool  dyeing. 

Introduction 113—116 

The  storing  of  dyestuffs 115 

The  dissolving  of  dyestuffs 115—116 

Comparative  strength  of  dyestuff  in  paste  and  powder 116 

Dyeing   in   an   acid   bath  (Acid,  Azo  and  Dianil  Colours) 117  —  122 

Dyeing   in   an    alkaline   bath  (Alkali  Blue  Colours) 123 

Dyeing   in   an    acetic   acid   bath  (Resorcine  Colours) 124 

Dyeing   in   a   neutral   bath  (Basic  Colours) 125—126 

Dyeing    in     an    acid    bath    and    developing    with    metal    salts 

(Developing  Colours) • 127 133 

Dyeing   on   mordants  (Alizarine  and  Mordant  Colours) 184—141 

Vat- dyeing  (Indigo  etc.) 142—154 

Methods  ofmodifyingthepropertiesofwool  asregardsdyeing  155  —  157 

Appendix:Cheniicalsusedinvvooldyeing 161—186 

Weights,  measures  and  other  tables 187—196 

In'^ex 197-201 


Part  I. 


Tabular  Survey  of  the  Dyestuffs  used 
in  Wool  Dyeing. 


-- a®c^- 


This  first  part  of  our  work  contains  a  tabulated  survey  of  all  the  dycstulfs  employed 
in  wool  dyeing,  commencing  with  the  largest  and  most  used  series  of  the  Acid  and  Azo 
Colours,  including  those  Dianil  Colours  which  are  used  for  dyeing  all  wool  goods,  and 
following  on  with  the  kindred  group  of  Alkali  Blue,  Resorcine,  and  Basic  Dyestuffs 
In  continuation,  the  Developing  Colours,  the  Mordant  Dyestuffs,  and  lastly,  Indigo 
will  be  described. 

With  the  view  to  a  further  characterization  of  the  several  dyestuffs,  a  brief  statement 
of  the  usual  method  of  dyeing  and  of  their  sphere  of  employment  has  been  added.  Consi- 
dering the  ever  changing  demands  made  upon  the  fastness  properties  of  the  colours,  which 
vary  very  considerably,  we  append  a  series  of  tables  showing  in  figures  the  degree  ol 
fastness  of  each  colour,  arrived  at  by  means  of  careful  comparisons  and  experiments,  and 
also  taken  from  results  of  the  practical  experiences  of  our  clients.  These  tables  will  greatly 
facilitate  the  choice  amongst  the  great  number  of  dj'estufts,  and  ensure  a  better  and  quicker 
judgment  of  their  properties. 

We  have  made  many  experiments,  basing  them  upon  the  practical  application  of  the 
dyestuffs  in  the  several  industries,  and  have  thus  compiled  a  progressive  comparison  of  the 
whole  range  of  dj'estuffs,  from  the  fastest  down  to  the  most  fugitive;  and  have  indicated  the 
degrees  and  half  degrees  of  fastness  by  the  figures  1 — 5  and  the  intermediate  numbers,  in 
this  manner,  that  the  figure  1  shows  the  greatest,  and  the  figure  5  the  least  fastness,  and 
that  e.  g.  the  figure  3 — 4  is  nearer  to  3,  whereas  the  fastness  expressed  by  the  figure  4 — :! 
is  nearer  to  4. 

The  figures  are  arranged  in  tables,  and  form  therefore  a  complete  schedule  by  which 
all  the  dyestuffs  can  be  compared  direct  with  one  another.  It  is,  however,  clear  that  our 
figures  cannot  be  compared  with  other  tables  made  from  different  standpoints. 

We  hope  that  the  abundant  information  we  ofier  will  afford  our  clients  considerable 
assistance  in  the  selection  of  dyestuffs  for  any  particular  purpose.  Having  regard,  however, 
to  the  uncertain  idea  of  fastness,  and  to  the  varying  conditions  under  which  the  many  dyeing 
operations  are  carried  out,  it  is  necessary  to  state  that  the  figures  given  by  us  —  apart  from 
errors  that  may  have  crept  in  through  the  great  mass  of  material  —  must  not  be  regarded 
as  absolutely  final,  or  meeting  every  possible  contingency;  but  that,  after  all,  the  practical  test 
of  a  dyestuff  under  the  conditions  necessary  for  any  specific  case  can  be  the  only  proper 
measure  of  its  suitability. 

Respecting  the  different  divisions  of  our  fastness  tables,  the  following  explanations  will 
be  useful: 

Equalizing. 

The  equalizing  property  (as  will  be  more  fully  elucidated  later  on,  in  discussing 
the  general  methods  of  dyeing  and  especially  the  dyeing  in  the  acid  bath)  depends  to  a 
certain  degree  on  the  composition  and  cleanliness  of  the  goods  in  question,  but  principally  on 
the  nature  of  the  dyestuffs  employed;  it  can  be  altered  by  changing  the  normal  dyeing 
method  so  that,  for  example,  badly  equalizing  dyestuffs  can,  in  most  cases,  be  improved  by 
certain  modifications,  in  a  measure  sufficient  for  all  practical  requirements. 


Tabular  Survey  of  the  Wool  Dyestuffs 


The  knowledge  of  the  degree  of  the  equalizing  property  of  a  dyestuflf  serves  in  the 
first  place  to  judge  of  its  suitability  or  otherwise,  for  light,  fancy  or  deep  shades;  and  of  its 
applicability  to  goods  which  equalize  easily  or  with  dilficulty  (pieces,  yarns,  slabbing  or  loose 
material). 

In  consideration  of  these  varying  requirements,  we  have  distinguished  between  the 
following  5  principal  classes: 

1.  The  dyestufl'  equalizes  when  dyed  according  to  the  normal  method  (10  "/o  Glauber's 
Salt  and  4''(o  Sulphuric  Acid  or  10 "/o  Tartar  Substitute)  upon  all  materials,  even  in 
the  lightest  shades,  and  in  fresh  baths,  so  that  additions  to  the  boiling  d3'ebath 
can  be  made. 

2.  The  dyestuff  equalizes  in  normal  acid  baths  at  boiling  heat,  on  sensitive  materials, 
in  dark  to  medium  shades;  in  old  baths  small  additions  are  permissible;  upon  less 
sensitive  goods  (slubbing  and  loose  material)  its  equalizing  property  is  sufficient  in 
all  cases. 

3.  The  dyestuflf  equalizes  in  normal  acid  baths  in  dark  to  medium  shades,  and  may  be 
added  to  old  baths  at  the  boil;  it  is  not  suitable,  however,  for  the  production  of 
light  fancy  shades  on  sensitive  materials,  and  in  this  instance  must  not  be  added  to 
the  baths  during  dyeing.  —  An  increase  of  Glauber's  Salt  or  a  decrease  of  acid  is 
advantageous;  upon  less  sensitive  goods,  slubbing  and  loose  material,  its  equalizing 
property  is  sufficient,  under  normal  conditions,  even  for  light  shades. 

4.  The  dyestufi  equalizes  upon  sensitive  goods  in  deep  shades  at  the  boil;  for  goods 
which  equalize  with  difficulty,  less  acid  and  increased  quantities  of  Glauber's  Salt 
are  required,  and  the  goods  are  entered  at  a  lower  temperature;  this  procedure  is 
advisable  even  for  goods  which  equalize  easily;  but  the  colour  is  not  suitable  for 
shading  at  the  boil. 

5.  The  dyestufl"  does  not  dye  through  or  evenly  upon  goods  equalizing  with  difficulty 
even  when  the  method  of  dyeing  is  modified.  Upon  less  sensitive  goods,  yarn, 
slubbing  and  hat  bodies,  great  caution  is  necessary  —  they  must  be  entered  at  a 
low  temperature;  the  quantity  of  Glauber's  Salt  must  be  increased,  weak  acids 
must  be  used  or  the  latter  gradually  liberated  in  the  dyebath;  the  colour  must  be 
slowly  exhausted  by  adding  the  acid  very  gradually  during  dyeing.  Additions  of 
the  dyestufl'  at  the  boil  are  not  permissible. 

We  have  purposely  omitted  to  include  the  equalizing  properties  of  dyestufts  which  are 
dyed  upon  mordants;  in  their  case  the  equalizing  depends,  in  the  first  place,  on  the  clean- 
liness of  the  goods,  and  on  the  evenness  with  which  the  mordant  is  deposited  upon  them; 
the  actual  dyeing  operation,  however,  is  of  secondary  consideration. 

Behaviour  towards  Cotton  and  Silk. 

Wool  materials,  especially  piece  goods  -  sometimes  also  yarns  —  often  consist 
not  only  of  wool,  but  contain  eflect  threads  either  twisted  round  the  fibre  or  mixed  with  the 
wool,  or  as  selvedges. 

These  eflfects  are  mostly  produced  by  means  of  cotton  or  other  vegetable  fibres  of 
similar  dyeing  properties,  such  as  artificial  silk,  ramie,  flax,  jute  etc.  They  are  generally 
undyed,  but  sometimes  also  used  in  colours,  and  in  dyeing  the  wool,  are  required  to  retain 
as  much  as  possible  their  original  shade,  so  as  to  allow  the  eflect  to  be  brought  out  distinctly. 

The  behaviour  of  wool  dycstufls  towards  these  efl!"ect  threads  of  vegetable  nature, 
diflers  according  to  their  chemical  constitution.  Whilst  some  leave  the  cotton  wholly  un- 
touched, others  will  tint  it  more  or' less,  and  these  colours  are  then  unsuitable  for  dyeing 
goods  with  white  or  coloured  selvedges  or  eflects.  The  affinity  of  some  wool  dyestuffs  for 
cotton  is  so  great,  that  it  is  possible  to  dye  both  cotton  and  wool  to  an  equally  deep  shade, 
provided  the  dyeing  in  an  acid  bath  is  replaced  by  that  in  a  neutral  salt  bath.  This  property 
is  most  extensively  utilized  in  the  vast  province  of  halfwool  dyeing,  to  which  we  shall  refer 
i  n  a  special  volumne. 


ExplaDation  of  the  fastness  numbers. 


Silk  is  more  rarely  used  than  cotton  and  other  kindred  vegetable  fibres,  in  conjunction 
with  wool,  for  the  production  of  special  effects.  Owing  to  the  lact  that  the  chemical  relations 
of  silk  and  wool  totally  differ  from  those  of  cotton  and  wool,  the  behaviour  of  wool  dyestuffs 
towards  accompanying  silk  threads  is  different  from  that  towards  cotton  effects. 

Here  also  various  degrees  of  tinting  the  silk  fibre  are  to  be  observed;  in  one  case  this 
may  be  an  advantage,  and  in  another  case,  a  decided  disadvantage. 

Having  regard  to  these  differences,  which,  however,  may  be  modified  to  a  certain 
extent  (both^in  goods  with  cotton  and  with  silk  effects)  by  changing  the  mode  of  dyeing, 
we  have  endeavoured  to  express  in  figures,  the  behaviour  of  the  various  dyestuffs  towards 
accompanying  cotton  and  silk,  taking  into  consideration  their  usual  method  of  application. 
The  following  remarks  will  explain  these  figures: 

a)  Behaviour  towards  Cotton. 

1.  The  dyestuff  does  not  dye  the  cotton,  even  in  full  shades. 

2.  The  dyestuff  leaves  traces  of  colour  on  the  cotton  in  full  shades,  but  the  dyeing  is 
so  slight  that  the  employment  of  the  colour  for  dark  shades  is  permissible. 

3.  The  dyestuff  leaves  the  cotton  untouched  in  light  shades,  but  shows  a  tendency  to 
tint  it  in  full  shades;  by  using  stronger  acid  baths,  however,  the  dyestuft' is  suitable 
still  for  goods  with  small  effects. 

■1.  The  dyestuff  dyes  the  cotton  perceptibly  even  in  light  shades,  and  is  therefore 
unsuitable  for  goods  which  are  intended  to  show  these  effects  distinctly. 

6.  The  cotton  takes  up  the  colour  most  readily;  when  dyeing  in  a  neutral  salt  bath, 
instead  of  in  an  acid  bath,  the  dyestuffs  of  this  group  dye  both  wool  and  cotton 
equally  well  (half-wool  dyeing).  Owing  to  their  great  affinity  for  the  vegetable 
fibre,  the  dyestuft's  of  this  group  are  sometimes  used  in  order  to  produce  certain 
coloured  efl'ects  in  an  acid  bath. 

b)  Behaviour  towards  .Silk. 

1.  The  dyestuff  leaves  the  silk  untinted,  and  can,  therefore,  be  used  for  all  goods  with 
white  silk  effects. 

2.  The  dyestuff  leaves  the  silk  sufficiently  white  in  light  shades,  and  tints  it  slightly  in 
full  shades;  in  the  latter  case  the  colour  may  still  be  used  for  white  effects,  if  treat- 
ed afterwards  in  a  cleansing  bath. 

3.  The  silk  is  tinted  considerably,  though  not  as  deeply  as  the  wool ;  it  cannot  however, 
be  made  sufficiently  white  by  a  cleansing  bath  even  in  light  shades. 

4.  The  silk  is  dyed  equally,  or  nearly  as  deeply  as  the  wool;  it  can  therefore  be  em- 
ployed for  dyeing  both  fibres  equally  deeply  in  wool  and  silk  goods. 

5.  The  dyestuff  "dyes  the  silk  more  heavily  than  the  wool,  and  therefore  can  be  used  in 
wool  and  silk  goods  for  shading  the  dyestuffs  designated  with  4,  or  in  combination 
with  the  dyestuffs  under    1   and  2,  for    the    production  of  two-coloured  (shot)  effects. 

Fastness  to  Rubbing. 

The  fastness  to  rubbing  decides  the  suitability  of  the  dyestuft"  for  goods  which 
are  not  washed  with  Fuller's  Earth  after  dyeing,  and  is  determined  by  rubbing  the  dyed 
goods,  after  rinsing  them  in  water  only,  with  a  strip  of  white  linen.  The  greater  part  of  the 
Mordant,  Alizarine,  and  some  Chrome  Dei^eloping  Dyestuffs  employed  in  fast  wool  dyeing, 
show  relatively  bad  figures;  but  it  by  no  means  follows  that  these  colours  are  insufficiently 
fast  to  rubbing  when  milled  and  washed  with  earth.  The  interpretation  of  the  figures  is  as 
ollows : 


Tabular  Survey  of  the  Wool  DyestufTs. 


1.  The  colours  do  not  rub,  even  in  full  shades. 

2.  The  colours  rub  imperceptibly  in  light  shades,  but  just  noticeably  in  full  shades. 

3.  The  colours  rub  slightly  in  light  shades  and  noticeably  in  full  shades. 

4.  The  colours  rub  considerably  in  medium  shades. 

6.  The  colours  rub  very  considerably,  and  very  perceptibly  even  in  light  shades. 


Fastness  to  light. 

To  judge  this  important  property  we  are  dependent  upon  sunlight,  varying  vastly  in  its 
eflect,  according  to  the  seasons  and  the  state  of  the  weather.  Many  attempts  have  been 
made  to  discover  an  artificial  source  of  light  of  unvarj'ing  intensity  and  equal  eflect,  but 
have  so  far  not  met  with  succes.  The  figures  are,  conscquenth',  only  relative,  being  arrived 
at  by  liie  comparative  exposure  to  sunlight  (facing  south)  of  medium  shades  of  equal  depth 
and  of  equally  deep  blacks,  during  one  summer  month.    The  figures  denote : 

1.  The  colour  has  undergone  no  perceptible  change  after  a  month.  These  dyestufls 
meet  practically  all  demands  made  upon  them  with  regard  to  fastness  to  light  and 
air,  e.  g.  for  carriage  cloths,  livery  and  army  cloths. 

2.  The  colours  show  a  slight  loss  or  change  of  shade  after  a  month;  they  fulfil,  as  a 
rule,  the  demands  usually  made  upon  the  better  class  men's  suitings,  for  high- 
class  decorative  and  tapestry  goods  etc. 

3.  The  colours  show  a  perceptible  loss,  or  a  considerable  change  of  shade  after  a 
month;  the  change  becomes  noticeable  after  a  fortnight's  exposure.  These  dyestufls 
will  generally  suffice  for  men's  cheap  suitings,  for  better  class  ladies'  dress  goods, 
for  acid  dyed  shades  on  carpet  j'arns  etc. 

4.  After  14  days'  exposure  to  light,  the  colours  show  a  great  change  or  loss  of  depth. 
The  degree  of  fastness  is,  however,  generally  sufficient  for  cheaper  ladies'  dress 
goods  etc. 

5.  The  colours  show  a  considerable  cliange  after  3—7  days,  and  fade  coniplettly  after 
a  month.  These  fugitive  dyestufls  may,  nevertheless,  be  employed  for  ball  dresses, 
hosiery  yarns,  fancy  yarns  and  similar  articles,  which  are  never  or  only  seldom 
exposed  to  sunlight. 

In  judging  the  fastness  to  light,  however,  many  circumstances  must  be  considered  which 
may  tend  to  vary  the  results  of  practical  tests,  so  that  they  seem  to  differ  from  the  above 
classification  and  the  figures  assigned  to  the  various  dyestufls;  i.  e.  the  fastness  to  light  nat- 
urally varies  according  to  the  depth  of  shade,  and  a  dyestuff"  marked  in  the  tables  with 
figure  .1,  may  still  be  sufficiently  fast  in  deep  shades,  to  be  used  for  the  better  class  men's 
suitings,  and  might  therefore  have  been  denoted  with  2;  another  dyestuft"  marked  3  for  medium 
shades,  might  not  prove  sufficiently  fast  when  dyed  in  light  fancy  shades,  e.  g.  on  carpet  yarns. 

Moreover,  the  composition  of  the  goods,  especially  their  surface,  considerably  influences 
the  resistance  of  colours  to  the  action  of  light.  For  instance,  a  firmly  milled,  smooth  faced  cloth 
generally  shows  a  distinctly  greater  fastness  to  light  than  a  raised,  loose-textured  flannel, 
dyed  with  the  same  dyestufi's,  and  to  the  same  shade.  This  variation  must  evidently  be 
attributed  to  the  fact,  that  in  the  one  case,  the  rays  of  light  which  are  apt  to  destroy  the  dye- 
stufl",  can  enter  more  deeply  into  the  cloth,  and  by  dispersing  within  the  same,  can  react  upon 
the  dycstulT  much  more  energetically  than  in  the  other  case,  where  the  rays  are  mostly 
reflected  from  tlie  firm  smooth  surface,  and  have,  therefore,  no  destructive  influence  upon  the 
colour.  Similar  causes  must  also  account  for  the  fact  that  goods  containing  much  white  cot- 
ton, e.  g.  the  so-called  MoulinOe-cloths,  are  distinctly  more  fugitive  than  all-wool  goods 
of  the  same  texture,  which  have  been  dyed  to  the  same  shades,  with  the  same  dyestufls. 
Obviously,  the  white  cotton  permits  the  rays  of  light  to  penetrate  into  the  cloth,  and  act  upon 
the  dyestulT  from  within. 


Explanation   of  the  fastness  numbers. 


In  testing  the  fastness  of  a  colour  as  regards  its  suitability  for  a  certain  practical  pur- 
pose, the  fact^must  be  taken  into  consideration  that  by  the  action  of  light,  some  dyestuf!s 
fade,'  i.  e.  become  gradually  lighter  without  changing  the  character  of  the  shade;  whilst  others 
change  the  shade  without  suflering  any  noticeable  loss  of  depth.  Although  this  varying  be- 
haviour cannot  be  expressed  in  figures,  it  is  essential  to  know  in  which  way  the  light  acts 
on  a  certain  dyestuff,  before  putting  it  to  practical  use.  If  a  dyestuff,  which  by  the  action  of 
light  turns  towards  red,  is  mixed  with  a  colour  which  changes  its  shade  towards  green,  the 
resulting  shade  will  seem  faster  to  light  than  either  of  the  colours  dyed  singly  or  in  combi- 
nation \vith  a  third  colour  which  does  not  change  its  shade,  but  fades;  for  in  changing  their 
shade  they  compensate  each  other. 

From  all  the  foregoing  data,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  figures  given  in  the  following 
tables  are  merely  a  guide  for  judging  the  fastness  to  light,  and  that  specific  tests  upon  the 
various  materials,  furthermore,  particular  application  and  combination  with  other  dyestuffs, 
and  comparisons  with  colours  of  known  fastness  on  the  same  material,  can  only  be  considered 
as  conclusive  as  to  whether  a  dyestuff  is  sufficiently  fast  to  light  for  a  set  purpose  or  not. 
In  conclusion,  we  may  mention  another  fact  which  depends  also  on  the  action  of  light, 
but  which,  strictly  speaking,  cannot  be  included  in  the  category  of  fastness  to  light.  It  is  the 
phenomenon  called  insolation,  to  which  some,  especially  yellow  and  orange  dyestuffs,  e.  g. 
Fast  Yellow  and  Milling  Yellow,  are  particularly  subject. 

If  colours  produced  by  such  dyestuffs,  especially  fancy  shades,  in  which  a  change  of 
tone  is  easily  noticed,  are  exposed  to  direct  sunlight  —  or  even  to  difiused  daylight  —  the 
exposed  places  show,  after  a  short  time,  often  after  a  few  minutes,  a  considerable  change, 
the  yellowness  having  more  or  less  disappeared.  On  being  removed  from  the  influence  of 
light,  i.  e.  on  being  wrapped  in  paper  impervious  to  light,  or  on  being  put  into  a  dark  place  for 
a  short  time,  the  original  colour  will  quickly  return,  but  disappear  once  more  on  being  ex- 
posed to  daylight. 

A  satisfactory  explanation  of  this  striking  phenomenon  has  not  yet  been  found;  it  is  ■ 
probably  due  to  an  intermolecular  displacement  of  the  dyestuff  molecule  under  the  influence 
of  sunlight,  which,  in  the  absence  of  light  reassumes  its  original  equilibrium.  Not  only  has 
it  been  the  aim  of  scientists  to  explain  fully  this  insolation,  but  they  have  also  tried,  hitherto 
in  vain,  to  find  a  remedy  for  it.  It  is  therefore  advisable  not  to  use  dyestuffs  for  light  fancy 
shades  which  are  particularly  subject  to  insolation;  on  the  other  hand,  they  may  be  unhes- 
itatingly used  for  deep  shades.  Insolation  is  less  troublesome  in  the  dyehouse  than  e.  g.  in 
making  up  and  in  warehouses,  for  in  examining  a  piece  changed  by  insolation,  it  will  often 
appear  at  first  sight  as  if  the  edges  have  faded,  whereas  the  normal  shade  will  generally 
quickly  re-appear. 

Fastness  to  steaming  (decatising). 

The  figures  given  in  this  column  are  to  serve  as  a  guide  as  to  whether,  and  to  what 
extent,  the  respective  dyestuffs  are  affected  by  dry  steaming.  This  operation  is  often  carried 
out  after  dyeing,  in  order  to  enhance  the  lustre  and  handle  of  the  goods.  Dry  steam, 
moreover,  affects  the  colours  in  a  similar  manner  to  an  alkaline  treatment,  probably  owing  to 
traces  of  basic  compounds  being  split  off  from  the  wool  fibre. 

In  all  cases  where  the  goods  are  steamed  immediately  after  dyeing  and  rinsing,  they 
still  retain  so  much  acid,  that  no  alkaline  reaction,  or  only  a  very  slight  one,  becomes 
apparent.  If,  however,  the  goods  are  subjected  after  dyeing  to  certain  neutralizing  operations, 
such  as  scouring,  washing  or  milling,  the  alkaline  reaction  of  dry  steaming  shows  itself  more 
strongly. 

In  testing  the  fastness  to  steaming,  we  have  adopted  the  procedure  which  is  mostly 
followed  in  fast  wool  dyeing,  viz:  the  dyed  goods  were  first  treated  in  diluted  ammonia  in 
order  to  neutralize  completely  all  traces  of  acid,  and  then  dry  steamed  for  '/a  hour  under 
pressure   of  1  atm.     Consequently,    to   judge   the    fastness  to  steaming  by  our  figures,  for  the 


8  Tabular  Survey  of  the  Wool  Dyesluffs. 


purposes  of  piece  dyeing  —  where  neutralizing  by  means  of  scouring  and  milling  is  less  fre- 
quently, and  at  all  events  less  energetically  resorted  to,  than  in  fast  wool  dyeing  —  it  is 
necessary  to  bear  in  mind  that  our  figures  denote  a  test  which,  in  piece  dyeing  and  especially 
in  acid  dyeing,  need  never,  or  only  seldom  be  taken  into  consideration;  that  therefore,  espe- 
cially for  dyestufl's  which  are  affected  by  alkalies,  a  high  figure  does  not  always  preclude  the 
suitability  of  this  colour.     Thus,  the  figures  signify : 

1.  The  shade  does  not  alter,  even  when  the  goods  are  subjected  after  dyeing,  first  to 
severe  milling  and  then  to  strong  dry  steaming;  the  dyestuff,  therefore,  suffices  for 
all  demands. 

2.  The  shade  becomes  sligliily  lighter,  or  changes  its  tone.  Such  a  change  is  no  dis- 
advantage with  goods  which  are  milled  after  dj-eing,  as  this  circumstance  can  easily 
be  taken  into  consideration  in  matching.  When  using  ordinary  acid  dyestuffs,  this 
figure  indicates  a  fastness  to  dry  steaming  which  is  sufficient  for  all  practical  purposes. 

3.  A  distinct  change  of  depth  of  shade  is  apparent.  In  this  case,  the  fastness  can  no 
longer  be  called  sufficient  for  goods  which  are  milled  with  soap  after  dyeing,  consi- 
denng  that  these  goods  are  generally  subjected  to  a  severe  steaming.  For  acid 
dyeing,  however,  or  if  the  goods  are  milled  with  acids,  the  dyestuff  usually  satisfies 
the  demands  made  upon  it. 

4.  A  very  considerable  change  is  noticeable.  The  dyestuff'  is  still  suitable  for  slight 
steaming,  if  the  goods  are  not  subjected  to  milling  or  any  other  alkaline  treatment 
after  dyeing. 

5.  The  shade  is  entirely  destroyed.  The  dyestuff  is  unsuitable  for  goods  that  have  to 
undergo  anj'  process  of  steaming. 

Fastness  to  carbonizing. 

For  carbonizing  wool  material,  sulphuric  acid  is  preferred  to  all  other  carbonizing 
ingredients,  because  it  has  the  least  injurious  effect  upon  the  quality  of  the  goods.  But  there 
are  many  dyestuffs  which  do  not  sufficiently  withstand  carbonizing  with  sulphuric  acid.  In 
order,  therefore,  to  test  the  fastness  to  carbonizing,  the  dyed  goods  were  treated  with  sul- 
phuric acid  of  4'/»°  Tw.  at  176°  F;  then  rinsed  in  water,  and  finally  neutralized  with  soda. 
Some  dyestuffs,  on  leaving  the  carbonizing  oven,  change  their  shade  considerably,  but  this 
change  usually  disappears  almost  completely  after  neutralizing  the  goods.  We  have  therefore 
not  taken  this  change  into  account,  it  being  only  a  transitory  one.    Our  figures  denote : 

1.  The  shade  stands  carbonizing  with  sulphuric  acid  without  any  change;  no  precaution 
need  therefore  be  taken  to  the  dyestuff. 

2.  The  shade  is  slightly  changed;  this,  however,  does  not  prevent  the  carbonization 
with  sulphuric  acid,  and  can   easily  be  taken  into  consideration  when  matching. 

3.  The  shade  is  distinctly  changed.  Where  exactness  of  shade  is  of  importance,  it  is 
advisable  to  replace  sulphuric  acid  by  a  milder  carbonizing  agent. 

4.  The  shade  changes  in  carbonizing  with  sulphuric  acid  by  at  least  one  colour  of  the 
spectrum.  The  employment  of  sulphuric  acid  is  therefore  excluded.  Even  milder  agents 
change  the  tone  visibly. 

5.  The  shade  is  completely  destroyed  by  sulphuric  acid,  and  is  also  greatly  changed 
by  milder  carbonizing  ingredients.  The  dyestuff  is  altogether  unsuitable  for  goods 
which  are  to  be  carbonized  after  dyeing. 

Fastness  to  stoving. 

In  order  to  judge  whether,  and  how  far  a  dyestuff  withstands  stoving,  and  how  far 
lighter  decorative  effects  are  acted  upon  by  bleeding,  we  have  plaited  some  dyed  hanks  with 


Explanation  of  the  fastness  numbers. 


white  wool  and  cotton  yarn:  these  plaits  were  then  soaped,  hydroextracted,  and  finally  stoved 
for  12  hours  in  a  sulphur  chamber.  The  two  columns  under  this  heading  refer  to  (a)  change 
of  shade  and  (b)  bleeding  into  white;  the  figures  signify: 

a)  change  of  shade: 

1.  No  change  of  shade;  the  dyestuflf  is  perfectly  fast  to  stoving. 

2.  Slight  change;  the  dyestuflf  may,  in  most  cases,  be  used  unhesitatingly,  especially 
for  full  shades. 

3.  Perceptible  change  of  shade;  the  dyestuff  is  no  longer  suitable  for  severe  stoving, 
but  when  necessany,  will  still  resist  slight  stoving  for  the  purpose  of  clearing  the 
shade,  and  can  generally  be  worked  together  with  stoved  material. 

4.  Considerable  change  of  shade;  the  dyestuff  is  not  suitable  for  stoved  goods,  and  its 
employment  in  combination  with  stoved  material  must  be  carried  out  with  caution, 
considering  that  not  infrequently  some  sulphurous  acid  adheres  to  the  latter,  which 
is  liable  to  give  indications  of  its  presence  much  later  in  storing  the  goods. 

5.  Entire  change,  or  destruction  of  the  shade;  a  simultaneous  application  with  stoved 
material  is  impracticable.  Even  in  packing  goods  which  are  dyed  with  these  dyestuflfs, 
care  must  be  taken  not  to  let  them  come  into  contact  with  stoved  material. 

b)  bleeding  into  white. 

1.  Interwoven  white  parts  remain  entirely  unaffected  in  stoving. 

2.  Even  full  shades  bleed  only  slightly  into  white  parts,  without  however  damaging 
the  elfect. 

3.  Medium  to  dark  shades  bleed  appreciably  into  white;  the  dyestufl' is  however  still 
applicable  in  light  shades. 

4.  Considerable  bleeding  takes  place  in  medium  to  dark  shades,  and  even  light  shades 
tint  the  white  distinctly. 

5.  The  colour  bleeds  into  white  to  such  an  extent,  that  it  can  only  be  used  for  plain 
single  coloured  goods. 

Fastness  to  water. 

This  test  serves  to  judge  the  suitability  of  the  dyestufts  for  milling  with  cold  and  hot 
water;  for  weak  and  strong  wet  steaming,  and  for  potting;  it  was  carried  out  in  the  following 
manner:  The  dyed  goods,  on  to  which  some  wool  and  cotton  threads  had  been  sewn,  were 
boiled  for  an  hour  in  ordinary  Spring -water.  Another  sample  was  immersed  in  cold 
water  for  12  hours.  Bleeding  into  white  alone  was  taken  into  consideration;  any  loss 
of  shade  was  not  taken  into  account.  (This  latter  point  will  be  dealt  with  under  fastness 
to  milling).     The  figures  denote: 

1.  The  colour  does  not  bleed  into  white  in  boiling  water;  consequently,  it  is  suitable 
where  fastness  to  potting  is  desired. 

2.  The  colour  bleeds  slightly  in  boiling  water,  but  satisfies  most  demands,  e.  g.  wet 
steaming  of  buckskins. 

3.  The  colour  does  not  bleed  in  cold  water,  not  even  in  full  shades,  and  is  therelore 
suitable  for  milling  with  cold  water,  e.  g.  flannels,  fancy  fabrics  etc. 

4.  Only  light  shades  do  not  bleed  when  immersed  in  cold  water;  still  the  colour  is 
suitable  for  goods  with  white  wool  or  cotton  effects,  if  rinsed  etc.  with  proper  care, 
i.  e.  they  must   not  be  rinsed  too  long,  nor  be  allowed  to  lie  too  long  in  a  wet  state 

5.  The  colour  bleeds  considerably  in  cold  water;  its  employment  is  therefore  not  per- 
missible in  combination  with  white  or  light  decorative  effects,  in  goods  which  are 
subjected  to  a  wet  treatment. 

lale 


10  Tabular  Siiney  of  llic  Wiwl  Dycsiuffs. 

Fastness  to  washing. 

The  fastness  to  washing  was  tested  by  treating  the  dyed  goods  for  half  an  hour  at 
140°  and   212"  F.   with   an   alkaline  soap  solution   (2  g  soap  and  0,5  g  calc.  soda  per  litre). 

1.  The  colour  withstands  soaping  at  the  boil  without  appreciable  loss;  the  dyestufT  is 
therefore  suitable  for  all  goods,  for  which  the  greatest  possible  fastness  to  washing 
is  required. 

2.  The  colour  undergoes  a  perceptible  change  in  soaping  at  the  boil,  but  not  at  140°  F; 
this  fastness  suffices  for  belter  class  hosiery  goods. 

3.  At  140°  F.  the  colour  withstands  soaping  without  appreciable  loss,  but  loses  greatly 
at  212°  F.  This  fastness  suffices  for  ordinary  knitting  yarns,  dyed  with  acid  colours 
which  are  expected  to  stand  normal  home  washing. 

4.  The  colour  loses  considerablj'  at  140°  F.  Dyestuffs  showing  this  degree  of  fastness 
must  not  be  used  for  goods  which  are'  subjected  to  repeated  washing,  but  can  be 
employed  for  goods  which  {as  e.  g.  dress  materials)  are  only  occasionally  subjected 
to  light  washing  for  the  purpose  of  cleaning  stains,  dirt  etc. 

5.  The  colour  is  stripped  entirely,  or  nearly  so,  bj'  soaping  at  140°  F;  the  dyestuft' is 
therefore  unsuitable  for  goods  whicii  are  to  be  washed  at  all. 

Fastness  to  Soda. 

This  test  serves  to  judge  the  resistance  of  a  colour  to  scouring.  It  was  carried  out  by 
putting  a  strip  of  the  dyed  material,  to  which  white  wool  and  cotton  threads  had  been  at- 
tached, into  a  soda  solution  of  3°  Tw.  for  C  hours.  The  two  columns  of  figures  under  this 
heading  refer  to  the  change  of  shade  and  the  bleeding  into  white.    The  figures  denote: 

a)  change  o  f  s  h  a  d  e. 

1.  The  shade  shows  no  change;  the  dyestuff  may  therefore  be  unhesitatingly  used  for 
dyeing  the  heavier  kinds  of  woollen  goods. 

2.  The  shade  shows  a  slight  change,  which  is  not  perceptible  enough  however,  to 
prevent  the  dyestuff  from  being  used  for  heavy  goods;  the  change  can  easily  be 
taken  into  account  in  dyeing  to  pattern. 

3.  The  colour  changes  perceptibly.  As  a  rule,  the  dyestufi"  is  no  longer  suitable  for 
piece  goods  which  are  to  be  subjected  to  scouring  with  soda  after  dyeing,  but  may 
be  used  for  lighter  slubbing,  or  yarn  dyed  worsted  materials,  which  are  treated  with 
soap  or  Fuller's  Farth  in  order  to  remove  the  size. 

4.  The  colour  shows  a  considerable  change;  the  dyestuiV  can  only  be  used  for  light 
worsted  goods,  after  making  a  special  test. 

.').  The  colour  is  completely  stripped;  the  dyestuff  is  unsuitable  for  all  dyed  goods  which 
are  to  be  subjected  to  a  treatment  with  soap  or  soda,  either  for  the  purpose  of 
cleansing,  or  removing  the  size. 

b)  bleeding  upon  white. 

1.  No  bleeding  into  white  is  noticeable;  the  dyestuft"  is  suitable  for  the  production  of  me- 
langes, even  of  the  heaviest  kind. 

2.  A  slight  bleeding  into  white  takes  place.  The  dyestuft"  may  be  used  unhesitatingly 
for  light  shades;  it  may  also  be  employed  in  melanges  and  one-coloured  buckskins, 
provided  the  scouring  is  carried  out  with  caution,  and  especially  if  the  goods  are 
well  rinsed  afterwards. 


Explanation  of  the  fastness  numbers. 


3.  The   colour   bleeds   into    white   perceptibly,    but   is   generally  still   suitable  for  single 
coloured   goods;   it   can   be   used   for   buckskins    and  melanges  only  in  light  shades. 

4.  The  colour   bleeds   considerably   into   accompanying    white,    and    is  only  to  be  used 
in  light  shades  for  goods  which  are  scoured  carefully  with  Fuller's  Earth. 

;■).    The  colour  bleeds  heavily  into  white;  the  dyestuft'  is  altogether  unsuitable  for  goods 
which  have  to  be  scoured,  or  from  which  the  size  has  to  be  removed    after  dyeino'. 


Fastness  to  Milling. 

The  ideas  about  fastness  to  milling  fluctuate  between  wide  limits,  according  to  indivi- 
dual conception,  the  actual  milling  process  employed,  and  the  quality  of  the  goods,  so  that  it 
is  difficult  to  reproduce,  by  trials  on  a  small  scale,  results  which  correspond  in  every  respect 
to  practical  experiences  and  opinions.  Nevertheless,  we  have  endeavoured  to  employ  methods 
for  testing  the  fastness  to  milling,  which  will,  as  nearly  as  possible,  be  found  sufficient  for  all 
practical  requirements,  With  that  object  in  view,  we  subjected  the  dyed  goods  (on  to 
which  were  sewn  white  wool  and  cotton  threads)  in  the  first  place  to  a  neutral  milling  with 
soap  (50  o.  soap  per  litre),  and  in  the  second  place,  to  millmg  in  a  strongly  alkaline  soap  so- 
lution (50  g.  soap  and  50  g.  calc.  soda  per  litre).  Both  tests  were  carried  out  by  putting  the 
dyed  material  for  12  hours  into  the  warm  solutions  at  86—104"  F.  To  these  tests  we  have 
added  several  others,  appertaining  to  the  fastness  to  soda,  and  the  loss  of  shade  when  im- 
mersing the  dyed  material  in  water;  and  finally  we  have  taken  into  consideration  the  results 
obtained  in  practice. 

Here,  also,  the  change  of  shade,  as  well  as  bleeding  into  wliite  was  accounted  for, 
and  our  figures  therefore  denote: 

a)  change  of  shade. 

1.  The  shade  does  not  change  when   subjected    to   the  strongest  milling  operation 

2.  The  shade  withstands  the  ordinary  milling   usual  for   buckskins,    without   changing 

3.  The  shade  shows  no  perceptible  change  when  milled  in  neutral  soap,  which  process 
is  generally  resorted  to  in  the  manufacture  of  flannels. 

4.  The   shade    withstands   milling   in   cold  water   and  with  Fuller's  Earth,  without  per- 
ceptible change. 

5.  The  shade  does  not  stand  milling, 

b)  b  1  e  e  d  i  n  g  1  n  t  o  w  h  i  t  e. 

1.  The  strongest  cloth  milling  causes  no  bleeding  into  white. 

2.  No  bleeding  into  white  takes  place  in  normal  buckskin  milling. 

3.  No   bleeding   into    white   takes   place   in   normal   soap    milling,    or   in    washing   light 
materials. 

i.    When  milled  with  cold  water,  the  colours  do  not  bleed  into  white. 

5.    The  colours   bleed   into   white    when   subjected  to  very  slight  milling  with  water  or 
earth. 

Fastness  to  alkalies. 

In  order  to  judge  the  fastness  of  colours  to  street  dust  and  dirt,  two  tests  were 
made,  one  with  soda,  the  other  with  quicklime,  both  of  which  are  more  severe,  but  also  more 
reliable  than  a  treatment  with  ammonia.  Many  dyestuffs,  which,  in  practice,  are  not  fast  to 
street  dirt,  when  dipped  into,  or  spotted  with  atnmonia,  show  at  first  a  change,  but  they 
soon  recover  on   exposure   to  air,   and    are,    therefore,  apt  to  be  judged  too   favourably.     For 


Tabular  Sur\tv  «!  llic   Wool    Dvcsluff>. 


that  reason  we  preferred  to  carry  out  our  tests  with  soda  and  quicklime,  which  are 
more  severe,  and  of  more  lasting  effect.  On  the  other  hand,  however,  we  must  point  out 
that  by  resorting  to  this  severer  test,  many  dyestufts,  though  placed  in  an  inferior  category, 
may  still  be  found  sufficiently  fast  in  practice.  This  is  especially  the  case  when,  as  we  have 
mentioned  under  lastness  to  light,  colours  are  skilfully  utilized ;  e.  g.  a  dyestuff  which  is 
liable  to  turn  red,  is  combined  with  another  one  which  turns  green  on  treatment  with  alkali. 
In  this  manner  the  dyer  is  often  enabled  to  produce  fairly  fast  combination  colours  with  dye- 
stuffs  which,  individually,  are  not  fast  to  alkalies. 

The  fastness  to  alkalies,  and  especially  to  soda,  is,  after  all,  nearly  always  a  test  of  the 
fastness  to  perspiration  of  wool  dyestuffs,  since  the  effect  of  perspiration,  contrary  to 
that  upon  cotton,  shows  itself  as  an  alkaline  reaction  in  wool  goods.  Thus  for  example,  goods  dyed 
with  Indigo  Carmine,  which  is  extremely  stable  to  acids,  are  discoloured  by  perspiration  in 
the  same  manner  as  by  alkalies.  This  fact  is  all  the  more  striking,  insomuch  as  normal  per- 
spiration has  an  acid  reaction;  it  may,  perhaps,  be  explained  in  the  following  manner:  Perspi- 
ration consists  chiefly  of  water,  and  of  fatty  acid  and  other  inorganic  salts;  the  former  de- 
compose and  split  up  into  fatty  acid  and  alkali,  wiiereupon  the  freed  alkalies,  as  the  stronger 
bases,  combine  with  the  colour  acids,  which  are  relatively  stronger  than  the  fatty  acids,  and 
thus  produce  a  change  of  shade;  whereas  the  wool  —  the  weaker  base  —  combines  with 
the  weaker  fattj'  acids,  in  so  far  as  these  are  not  eliminated  already  bj'  decomposition  or 
volatilization. 

The  soda  test  was  effected  by  dipping  the  dyed  goods  into  a  soda  solution  of  16"  Tw., 
squeezing,  and  allowing  them  to  dry  without  being  rinsed;  the  figures  denote: 

1.  No  change  of  shade  takes  place. 

2.  The  shade  shows  only  a  slightly  perceptible  change,  or  loss  of  depth. 

3.  The  change  or  loss  of  depth  is  more  pronounced,  but  does  not  amount  to  one  colour 
of  the  spectrum. 

4.  A  considerable  change  of  shade,  or  loss  of  depth  takes  place. 

5.  The  shade  is  almost  completely  or  entirely  destroyed. 

The  test  with  quicklime  is  carried  out  by  spotting  the  dyed  goods  with  newly  slaked 
lime  paste,  and  allowing  it  to  dry  in  the  open  air,  on  the  material.  Then  the  dry  lime  is 
brushed  off,  and  the  change  judged  in  the  following  manner: 

1.  No  change  of  shade  takes  place. 

2.  The  shade  shows  a  slight  change. 

3.  A  marked  weakening  of  the  depth  of  colour,  or  a  distinct  change  of  shade  is  noticeable. 

4.  The  shade  shows  a  considerable  loss  of  depth  or  a  considerable  change. 
•5.    The  colour  is  completely  stripped. 

Colours  which  in  both  tests  are  denoted  with  1,  can  be  employed  without  hesitation 
for  such  goods  as,  e.  g.  carriage  cloths,  military  and  otlicr  cloths  for  uniforms  required  to  be 
extremely  fast  to  street  dirt,  stains  etc. 

Dyestuffs  marked  •>,  are  very  fast  to  alkalies  and  perspiration,  and  can  be  employed 
where  a  satisfactory  fastness  to  alkali  is  essential,  e.  g.  for  men's  suitings,  better  classes  of 
ladies'  cloths  and  hat  bodies. 

The  dyestuffs  under  3,  include  sufficiently  fast  acid  colours  for  ordinary  classes  of 
ladies'  dress  goods;  they  will  stand  without  change  the  ammonia  test,  which  is  mostly  con- 
sidered sufficient  for  these  goods. 

Dyestuffs  classed  under  4,  can  still  be  used  for  cheaper  classes  of  ladies'  dress  goods, 
ats  etc.,  as  their  change  in  most  cases  corresponds  with  that  brought  about  by  am- 
monia;   they  can  mostly   be   pronounced   sufficiently    fast   to   alkalies  for  practical   purposes. 

The  dyestuffs  designated  with  the  figure  6,  are  insufficiently  fast  to  alkalies.  No  de- 
mands as  to  fastness  to  alkalies  or  perspiration  can  be  made  upon  them;  even  ammonia 
changes  their  shades  permanently. 


Wool  Colour  Tables. 


Tabular  Survey  of  the  Dycstuffs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


ChlnoUne  Yellow  O 


Application 


Naphthol  Yellow  S 


Flavazine  3  GL  pat. 


Flavazlne  L 


With   10°/o  Glauber's    salt 

and    4' It    sulphuric    acid    at 

the  iKiil. 


With  10°/o  Glauber's  salt 

anil  4  "/o  sulphuric   acid  in  a 

boilin"  balh. 


With  20  "/o  Glauber's   salt 

and  4°/o  sulphuric  acid  in  a 

boiling  bath. 


A  pure  greenish  yellow  level-dyeing  dyesluff; 
used  alone  or  in  combination  with  Patent 
Blue,  Xaphtalene  Grwn  for  bright  yellow 
to  green  shades  (Billiard  greensl.  With  Fast 
Acid  Eosine  or  fast  Acid  Phloxinc  used 
for  cream  and  salmon  shades  fast  to  stoving: 
also  for  ladies'  dress  g<Kxls  and  knitting,  fanc)', 

and  zephyr  yams. 
Chinoline  Yellow  extra  is  more  advanUgeous 

than  the  "0"-brand. 


Inexpensive,  level-dyeing  pure  yellow,  used  in 
self  6h.adcs  and  in  combination  with  other 
colours  for  all  cbsses  of  light  piece  goods; 
in  yam  dyeing  where  no  great  demands  are 

made  as  regards  fastness. 

Naphthol  Yellow  SE  and  the  more  soluble 

SL  serve  for  the  same  purjroses. 


Very  ])urc  greenish  yellow,  fast  to  light. 
Employed  in  |)iece  dyeing  for  shading  better 
class  suiting  material  and  ladies'  dress  goods ; 
in  yarn  dyeing,  especially  for  carpet  yarns  etc. 
where  fastness  to  light  is  essential. 


With   10»;'o  Glauber's   salt 

and  4%  sulphuric   acid  in  a 

boiling  bath. 


In  a  boiling  bath  with 

10%  Glauber's  salt  and  4"/o 

suljihuric  acid. 


With   lO-aO'/o  Gbuber's 

salt    and  4''/o   sulphuric    acid 

in  a   bdilini;  b.illi. 


With  10»,o  Glauber's  salt 
and  2 — o'lo  acetic  acid  or 
10 '/o  acetate  of  .ammonia;  the 
goods  are  entered  cold,  the 
bath  is  then  gradually  raised 
to  the  boil,  boiled  for  '/j  hour 
and  finally  exhausted  with 
2— 4%  acetic  acid  or  1  — 2"/o 
sulphuric  acid. 


Equally  .as  f;ist  to  light  as  Klav.nzine  3GL,  but 
rather  redder  in  shade  and  of  better  equalizing 
properties.  Suit-able  for  fancy  shades,  on 
piece  goods,  hats,  and  yarns  wherever  fast- 
ness to  light  is  essential.  For  shading  chrome 
developing  colours. 


Stronger  than  Klava/.ine  1.,  and  almost  equally 
fast  to  light.  Employed  for  f.ast  green, 
brown,  and  fancy  shades  on  knitting,  caqict, 
and  fancy  yarns,  on  hats,  and  on  piece  goods ; 
for  shading  chrome  developing  colours. 


On  account  of  its  f.aslness  Id  light  and  water, 
used  in  combination  with  acid  colours  in 
piece  and  yarn  dyeing  for  goods  which  have 
to  stand  milling  in  cold  water;  further  for 
the  production  of  all  kinds  of  mixed  and 
fancy  shades;  .also  on  slubbing  for  milling 
with  water.  On  pieces,  yarn,  slubbing,  and 
loose  wool  for  shading  chrome  developing 
colours.     Dischargeable  with  Hydrosulpliitc. 


Very  fast  to  water  and  milling.  On  Imise 
wool,  slubbing,  yain.  and  pieces  for  bright 
yellow  and  orange  sh.ades,  f.ast  to  milling; 
suitable  for  flannels  and  piece  goods,  which 
have  to  stand  washing  and  milling,  also  for 
decorative  material,  bunting  etc.  For  shading 
chrome  developing  and  mordant  colours. 


Acid  Colours. 


Affinitj'  for 

o 

1" 

2 

CO 

o 

C    CO 

O  bC 

en  I- 
CO  CO 

Fastness  to 
Stovjng 

o 

1  Fastness  to     Fastness  to  i   Fastness  to 
1         Soda        1       Milling       |      Alkalies 

Cotton    Silk 

'  Change  "  ^leed- 

CO           1     COS 

Cha„,e     B.^- 

1 

Change 

Bleed-  ]    _    , 
ing           Soda 

:   Quick 
:     lime 

1 

2      ;  3-4 

2 
1-2 

3     4 

1 

1-2 

1      i      2 

4 

4 

3      i      4 

8 

4 

2 

:     2 

1—2 

1            2 

4-5 

1—2 

1-2 

1     1      2 

4-3 

4-5 

4           5 

3—4 

4-5 

1—2 

1-2 

■■> 

1      ^2-3 

1 

2 

12-1 

1 

1      i      1 

3 

4 

4      ;  2-3 

3 

4—3 

2 

3 
3-2 

■2 

1-2 :    3 

1-2 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

1      i  1-2 

4 

4-3 

4—3 1 3-4 

2—3  : 

4-5 

2 

2 

1-2        3 

1-2 

2-3 

1 

1-2 

1     1  1-2 

4 

4-3 

4      ;  3—4 

2-3  : 

4-5 

1-2  ; 

2-3 

1            2 

1 

2-3 

1 

1—2 

1            1 

3 

4 

4      :   2-3 

3-2  ; 

4 

1-2  \ 

3 

1 

2         2—3 

1-2 

2 

1 

1-2 

1            1 

2 

3-2 

1—2      2-1 

1-2 

1-2 

1-2  ; 

1 

16 


Tabular  Survey  of  the  DyestufFs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Dianll  Pure  Yellow  HS 


Wilh  10— 20''/o  Glauber's 
salt  and  5  °/o  acetate  of 
ammonia;  tlic  jjoods  are 
entered  at  100— 120°  K,  the 
bath  iben  heated  slowly  to 
the  boil,  and  kept  boiling 
for  '/j  hour.  Kor  dark  shades 
the  bath  is  exhausted  with 
2 — 4%  acetic  acid. 


Dianil  Yellow  :!G  pat. 


With  10— 20°/o  Glauber's 
salt  and  S'/o  acetate  of 
ammonia  or  3  "/o  acetic  acid ; 
the  goods  arc  entered  at  a 
moderate  tenipcrattire,  the 
bath  heated  to  the  boil,  and 
kept  boiling  for  1  hour,  whilst 
adding  2 — •5''/(i  acetic  acid 
or    1 — 2%    sulphuric   acid. 


On  account  <if  its  greenish  yellow  shade  and 
its  satisfactory  fastness  to  water  and  washing 
used  for  knitting  yarns  and  slubbing  also 
for  the  manufacture  of  flannels  and  blankets. 


A  very  pure  yellow  fast  to  \v.-ishing,  water, 
and  milling  and  stoving.  Used  on  loose- 
wool,  slubliing,  and  yarn  for  the  production 
of  green  and  yellow  sh.ades,  also  largely  used 
for    flannels,    blankets;    and   knitting   yarns. 


With  10— 20»/o  Glauber's 
s-ilt  and  5  °/o  acetate  of 
ammonia.  The  goods  are 
entered  at  120°  K,  the  bath 
i  heated  slowly  to  the  boil, 
kept  boiling  for  1  hour:  for 
dark  shades  the  bath  is 
exhausted  with  2 — 4  "/o  acetic 
acid. 


Oxydianil  Yellow  G 


On  account  of  its  fastness  to  washing,  milling, 
stoving  and  light  suiuiblc  for  fast  fancy 
shades  on  loose  wool,  slubbing,  and  yam 
for  hosieiy,  and  in  the  m.inufacture  of  flannels 
and  blankets. 


Oxydianil  Yellow  o 


Aurophenine  o 


Dianll  Yellow  R  R  pat. 


With  10— 20''/o  Glauber's 
salt  and  8  "/o  acetic  acid ; 
the  bath  is  heated  to  the 
boil,  and  kept  boiling  for 
I'/i  houis.  For  dark  shades 
the  bath  is  exhausted  by 
adding  2 —  5°/o  acetic  acid  or 
1 — 2°/o  sulphuric  .icid. 


With  10— 207o  Glauber's 
salt  and  .")%  acetate  of 
ammonia;  the  bath  is  heated 
to  the  boil,  kept  boiling  for 
1 — I'/s  hours,  and  exhausted 
with  2 — 4%  acetic  ,icid. 


With  10— 20''/o  Glauber's 
salt  and  5°/o  acetate  of 
ammonia  or  II"/,,  acetic  acid; 
the  goods  are  entered  at 
140"  K.,  the  bath  heated  to 
the  boil,  .-ind  kept  boiling  for 
1 — I'/s  hours;  if  necessary, 
2—  5  °,'o  acetic  acid  are  added. 


The  Oxydianil  Yellows  are  very  satisfactory 
as  regards  fastness  to  light  and  milling  and- 
are  therefore  used  in  fast  wool  dyeing  on 
loose  material,  slubbing  and  yarn  for  sh.ades 
fast  to  milling. 


A  pure  golden  yellow  veiy  fast  to  water, 
milling,  and  light.  Used  on  loose  wool, 
slubbing,  and  yarn  for  bright  fancy  shades 
in    the    manufacture    of   hosier)'    yarns    and 

flannels. 
Aurophenine    oonc.    is    used    in    the    sanu- 

manner. 


I'sed  in  the  s^ime  maimer  as  .\uroplienine  (>. 


Acid  Colours. 


C 

Affinity  for 

o 
c  ^ 

o 

o 

O   M 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

O 
in    ^ 

s> 

fi  .s 

1^ 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton    Silk 

13 

in  k- 

change 

Blceil- 
inf 

Change 

lileed- 

Change 

Bleed- 
ing 

Soda 

Quick 
lime 

5 

5      \      3 

3 

4 

3 

2-3 

2-3 

1 

2 

2-3 

2 

2-1 

1-2 

1--2 

1-3 

4 

5         :           3 

2-3 

4 

2 

1-2 

1 

1 

2-3 

3-2 

2 

2-3 

12 

2 

1-2 

2 

1      5 

5      :     3 

3 

2 

1-2 

3 

2 

1 

2-3 

3-2 

2 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

1-2 

2 

4-5 
1 

6            ;            4 

3-2 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

2-3 

2-3 

1-2 

2-1 

2 

2-1 

1-2 

1 

4-5 

5           4 

8 

1 

1-2 

1 

1 

1 

2-3 

2-3 

1-2 

2—1 

- 

2-1 

1 

1 

5 

4-5  \      3 

3 

2-3 

1 

1-2 

1 

1 

3-2 

3 

1-2 

2-3 

- 

2 

1 

1-2 

i 

5        3—4 

2-3 

3 

1-2 

2-1 

1 

1 

2-3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2 

2-3 

2-3 

2-3 

:3le 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  DyestufFs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Fast  Yellow  S 


0.S  •/. 


With    10  "/o    f'llauber's    salt 
and  4°/o  sul])huric  acid. 


Cheap  Ifvcl-dyeingycllow,  used  in  combinations 

with  other  colours  on  ladies'  dress  goods,  and 

for  embroidery  and  knitting  yams. 


Fast  Yellow  O 


Azo  Yellow  cone. 


Chrysoine  G 


At     the     boil     with     lO'/o 
Glauber's  salt  and  4%  sul- 
phuric acid. 


Cheap  soluble  yellow,  used  in   combinations 
with    other    colours    for    brown    and    fancy 

shades  on  piece  goods  and  yarns. 
Readily    dischargeable    with    Hydrosulphite. 


In  an  acid  bath   at  the  boil 

with  10  "/o  Glauber's  salt  and 

4*'/o  sulphuric  acid. 


Level-dyeing  colour,  fast  to  alkalies  and  acid; 
suitable  for  shading  mixed  and  fancy  shades 
on  slubbing  and  piece  goods,  and  for  shading 
heavy  suitings:  suitable  also  for  mixed  wool 

and  silk  material. 
Azo   Yellow  O  and   the   more  soluble   Aso 
Ftavine  O  anit  J/ possess  the  same  properties. 


With    10 "/o    Glauber's    salt 

and    4''/o   sulphuric   acid    at 

the  boil. 


Level-dyeing  yellow  dytstuff  very  fast  to 
washing;  used  for  self  shades  and  in  com- 
bination with  other  acid  colours  on  slubbing, 
yarn,  and  ])iecc  goods  where  fastness  to 
washing  is  re<|uircd.  Chrysoine  R  i:oisesses 
the  s.ime  properties. 


Victoria  Yellow  cone 


Dianil  Orange  N 


0.5*/, 


With    W/o    Glauber's    salt 

and    4''/o  sulphuric    .icid    at 

the  boil. 


With  10-20''/o  Glauber's 
salt  and  5"/o  acetate  of 
ammonia;  the  goods  are 
entered  at  120°  F.,  heated 
to  the  boil  and  boiled  for 
1 — 1  '/t  hours;  for  dark  shades 
2 — 4  "/o  acetic  acid  are  added. 


Cheap  level-dyeing  dyestuff;  extensively  used 
for  the  i)roduction  of  fancy  shades,  for 
darkening  navy  blues  on  ])iece  goods,  and 
yarns  dyed  with  acid  cf)lours.  The  brands  ('. 
double,  and  cone.  D  ])osscss  the  saniu 
|)roperties. 


On   account   of    its    fitstness    to   water    and 

washing  used  on   slubbing  and  on  knitting 

yarns;    also   in    the   manufacture   of  flannels 

and  blankets. 


Orange  Nr,  4 


With    10 "/o    Glauber's    salt 

and    4°/o    sulphuric    .icid    at 

the  boil. 


Chea])  yellow  dyestuff  for  shading  dark  sh.ides, 

such  ,is  brown,    olive,    bronze  etc.;    also  on 

yarn,    felt    hals,    and    piece    goods;    fast    to 

alkali  and  to  light. 


Acid  Colours. 


19 


be 

c 

is 

g- 
W 

Affinity  for 

o 

tn  C 

o 

2u> 

O   60 
V  g 
a  as 

Fastness  to  j 
Stoving 

o 

2^^ 

in  C 
£  n 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to  j 
Alkalies 

Cotton;  Silk 

Change : 

Bleed- 
ing 

Change  i 

Bleed-  1 
ing      1 

Change : 

Bleed- 
ing 

Soda     ; 

Quick 
lime 

2 

2—3   : 

3 

1-2 

3. 

2-3 

2-3 

2      j 

2 

4 

4 

4      1 

4 

3-4  \ 

4 

2-1  : 

2-3 

2 

3     ; 

3 

2 

3 

2-3 

2-3 

2      1 

2-3 

4 

4 

4    ; 

4 

3-4  1 

4 

2-1  i 

2-3 

2 

4 

4 

3 

3-4 

2 

1—2 

1-2  ; 

3 

4-5 

3-4 

3-2  i 

4 

3     ; 

4 

2-1  ; 

2 

2 

3-4 

3-2 

2 

3 

3 

2-3 

2 

1-2 

3-4 

3 

3-4  ; 

4-3 

2-3 

4 

2    ; 

2-3 

2 

4-3 

4 

2 

3 

2-1 

2 

2 

2 

4 

4 

3 

4—5 

3—2 

4 

1 

1-2 

5 

5 

:  ''^-'^ 

3 

3—4 

1—2 

3-4 

2 

1      1 

3-2 

3 

2 

;    2 

2 

I      2 

1-2 

1-2 

i 

2 

3-4 

\  4-3 

2 

3 

1—2 

2 

2 

1      2 

4 

4 

3 

:    5 

3 

:       4 

1 

;  1-2 

Tabulated  Survey  of  the  DyestufFs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Method  of  Dyeing 


With    IC/o    niaulH-r's    sail 
and  4"/o  sulphuric  acid. 


Wilh     10"/,.    GlaulHT-s    salt 

ami    4  °/o    sul|ihuiic    aciil    in 

a  biiilinj;  lialli. 


Wilh     10"  0    rilaubpi's    salt 

antl  4  "  ..   siilpluiric  acid. 


Application 


I>^vcl-dycing  colour  ver)-  fast  to  li(;lit  ami 
to  nikniies,  I'scd  on  weaving,  knitting, 
caqjct,  and  fancy  yams,  on  piece  goods 
for  fancy  shades  and  for  shading  chrome 
developing  a>lours. 


On  account  of  its  equalizing  properly  and 
its  general  fastness  used  for  all  kinds  of 
combination  shades  on  piece  goods,  carjiet, 
embroider)',  and  fancy  yams.    For  self  shades 

on  wtKil  and  silk  goods. 

Orani^f  HL  and   Orange  No.  i  are  used  for 

the  same  ]>urpc)ses. 

Dischai^cable  with  Hydrosulphito. 


I.evel-dycing  colour  f.asl  to  alkalies  and  acid; 

used   for  the  production  of  dark  combination 

shades  on  ladies'  dress  goods  and  on  carpet 

and  knitting  yams. 


With     10";,,    ("dauber's    s.->U 

and    4"/o    sulphuric    acid    at 

the  boil. 


Willi    10"/o    Olaulipt's    s.ilt 

iiml    4°'o    sulphuric    acid    at 

the  boil. 


Of  the  same  properties  as  Brilliant  (Grange  G  ; 
especially  suitible  for  dark  combination  shades, 
such  as  brown,  bronze,  olive  on  piece  goods, 

embroidery,   knitting,  and  fancy  yams. 
Readily    dischargeable    wilh    Ilydrosulphite. 


On  account  of  its  tinctorial  strength  and 
general  fastness  properties,  as  a  cheap  foun- 
dation for  combination  and  fancy  shades  in 
wool  dyeing;  used  lai'gely  on  yarn,  piece 
goods,  and  felt  hats. 


Acid  Colours. 


c 

Affinity  for 

o 

cn-S 

o 

o 
■"  be 

O    bD 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 
is 

2  m 

in  '^ 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to      Fastness  to 
Milling             Alkalies 

a 
W 

Cotton    Silk 

c3  Oi         ra          i     CO  [/5    ;     13   ra 

Change 

Bleed- 
ing 

P 

C  S 

Change 

Bleed- 
ing 

Change 

Bleed- 
ing 

„    ,       i    Quick 
Soda     :       Wmo 

I 
2 

3 

3 

1 

2-3 

1-2 

1 

2-1 

2 

4 

4 

4 

5 

3-4 

6 

1-2     :         2 

2 

3 

4 

2—1 

3-2 

1 

1 

1-2 

2 

4 

4 

3 

5 

3 

4 

2-1 

2 

2-3 

3 

4 

2-1 

3—2 

1 

1 

1-2 

2 

4 

4 

4 

5 

3-4 

4  -5 

2 

2-3  i 

2-3 

3—4 

4 

2-1 

3-2 

1-2 

1 

1-2 

2 

4 

4 

4-3 

5 

3-4 

4 

2 

2 

2 

3— i 

3-4 

1-2 

2-3 

1 

1-2 

1-2 

2—3 

4 

4-3 

3-4 

5 

3 

4-5 

1-2 

2 

2 

3-4 

3—4 

1-2 

2-3 

1 

1-2 

1—2 

2—3 

4 

4-3 

3 

^ 

3 

4-5 

2—1 

2     j 

2-3 

3—4 

4-3 

2 

3-2 

1-2 

1 

1-2 

2 

4 

4-3 

3-2 

5 

3 

4-5 

1-2 

2 

22 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestufts  used  in  Wol  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Brilliant  Crocelne  R 


Willi  10 "/o  Glauber's  salt 
and  3  "It  sulphuric  acid ; 
the  goods  are  entered  at 
120—140°  I".,  the  bath 
'heated  slowly  to  the  boil, 
kept  boiling  for  '/j-  1  hour. 
Formic  acid  can  be  iiscd  in 
place  of  sulphuric  acid. 


With  lO'/o  filauber's  salt 
.and  -^"lo  sulphuric  acid; 
the  gotKis  are  entered  at 
120—140"  I'".,  the  bath  is 
healed  slowly  to  the  boil,  and 
kept  boiling  for  '/«  — 1  hour. 


With  20»/o  Glauber's  salt 
and  4"/u  sulphuric  acid;  the 
goods  arc  entered  at  a  mo- 
derate tempcniture,  the  hath 
is  then  healed  slowly  lo  the 
Imil,  and  kept  boiling  for 
',4 — 1   hour. 


With    10";,,    Glauber's    salt 

and  2—  5  ",o   .'icetic  acid,    or 

'   10",i    .ncelate   of    ammonia : 

I  the  liath  is  healed  slowly  to 

the    boil,    kept    Ixiiling    for 

1   hour;    if   necessarj',    some 

[  acetic    or    sulphuric    acid    is 

I  added    to   exhaust   the  bath. 

I 


On  account  of  their  fastness  to  light  ilie 
Brilliant  Croceines  are  extensively  used  !•  t 
the  priKhiclion  of  scarlet  shades  on  yarn  .mil 
])iecc  goods,  where  fastness  to  acid  aiul 
sloving  is  not  retpiired,  as  c.  g.  for  dccor.i- 
tivc  materials,  bunting,  upholstery  goods  etc. 
In  addition  to  the  specified  brands.  Brilliant 
Croceine  B,  BB,  sB  and  SB  are  also 
lai^ely  used. 


Very  fast  to  light;  largely  used  in  place  of 

the  more  fugitive  scarlets  on  yarn  and  piece 

goods,     where    fastness     to    sloving    is    not 

required. 


A  blueish  red  cochineal  shade  very  fast  to 
light,  fast  lo  stoving,  and  moderately  f.ist  lo 
water,  l.'sed  in  combination  with  cochineal 
or  topped  with  Rosazeine,  in  place  of 
Cochineal  Scarlets  on  i>iece  goods  esp<s;ially 
for  decorative  materials:  also  largely  used  in 
yarn  dyeing. 


Very  satisfactory  as  regards  fastness  to 
washing  and  milling;  the  latter  is  further 
enhanced  by  an  aftertreatment  with  Hichrome 
orChn>mium  fluoride.  Used  on  lof.se  wool 
and  shibbing  for  bright  sludes  f.-isl  lo  milling; 
on  yarn  and  piece  goods,  if  not  too  great 
a  demand  is  m.ide  as  to  fastness  to  light, 
for  bright  reds  fast  to  water,  washing  and 
milling.  Altlltng  Scarlet  4RO  possesses  the 
same  properties. 


Acid  Colours. 


60 

C 

1 

a* 
W 

Affinity  for 

o 

■"  bO 
m  C 
S  -3 

o 

o 

■"   60 

o  bo 

II 
CO  ca 
bU 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

rn    ^ 
en  <U 

[2 

o 

"   60 

J!  IS 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastnees  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton; 

Silk 

C  '-r          era 

Change 

Bleeding 

wbangc  ' 

Bleeding 

Change ; 

Bleeding 

Soda 

Quick 
lime 

4 

2-3  1 

4 

1-2 

2 

2-3 

2 

3 

2 

3-4 

3—4 

3 

4 

3 

4 

2    ; 

2-3 

4 

2-3 

4 

1 

2 

2 

2-1 

4 

2 

3 

3 

3 

4 

3 

3-4 

2 

2-3 

4 

2—3 

4 

1-2 

2 

2 

2— .1 

4 

:     2 

3 

3 

3 

4 

3 

3-4 

2 

2 

4 

2-3 

4 

1-2 

2 

2-3 

2-1 

4 

;     2 

3 

3 

3 

4-5 

3 

4 

2-3 

2-3 

1 
1 

4 

2 

1—2 

1 

2—3 

2 

1—2 

5 

;     3 

3 

4—3 

4-5 

3-4 

3-4 

4 

2 

3-4 

3-4 

2     3 

;    3 

1 

2-3 

1 

1-2 

1 

1      2 

3 

4-3 

4 

!      4 

3-4 

\  3-4 

1-2 

:       3 

5 

2 

i      4 

1 

3-4 

1 

1 

2-3 

:      1 

2 

2 

2—1 

i      2 

1-2 

\      2 

1 

:  1-2 

24 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dycstuffs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


0.75  •/.  2.5  •;. 

Victoria  Scarlet  4R 


Victoria  Scarlet  fiR 


With  10-20",,  C.lauber's 
salt  anil  3  "'n  ^^llll>l^uric  :icid ; 
ihc  (;i)ods  ail!  cnteieil  at 
120-140"  K.,  the  bath 
111  slowly  to  the  boil,  and 
kept  boiliny  for  "/j  —  1  hour. 
Instead  of  sidphiiiic  acid 
fomiic  aiid  may  be  used. 


Excel  in  tinctorial  strcnj;tli  and  fastness 
to  Mght  and  lubbinj;.  Used  on  shibbing, 
yarn,  and  jiiece  goods  a.s  a  foundation  for 
scarlet,  red  and  claret  shades  where  fastness 
to  light  is  essential.  Not  suitable  for  goods 
whicli  are  to  be  stoved  after  dyeing.  Largely 
used  on  carpet,  knitting,  and  fancy  yarns, 
ladies'  dress  goods,    upholstery   and  ta|)islr)' 

materials,  ladies'  and  children's  hats. 

Victoria  Scnrlft  2G  and  5/^  are  two  further 

brands  of  the  .same  class. 


Acid  Colours. 


bo 
E 

3 

cr 
w 

Affinity  for 

o 
"  bo 

o 
.J 

c2 

2  b/, 

u  E 
c  n 

1'^ 

O  bi) 

Fastness  to 
Sieving 

o 

t2 

2^ 
B  « 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton!   Sillc 

Change  :  Bleeding 

Change  |  Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

c    ,       ;   Quick 
Soda     :    Lime 

3-4 

2-3      3  -2 

1-2 

2—3 

1-2 

1-2 

2  -  3  :      3 

4 

4 

4        \   4—5 

3-4 

4 

2   :   3 

■6-i 

2        2-3 

1-2 

2—3 

1—2 

1—2 

3      i      3 

4 

4 

4  ;  4 

3—4 

4—5 

2      \      3 

4-3 

2        3-2 

1 

2-3 

1-2 

1—2 

3-4  ;      3 

4-3 

4 

4      ;      4 

3—4 

4-5 

2      1      3 

4 

2      :  2—3 

1 

2—3 

1—2 

1-2 

4        :        3 

3-4 

4—3 

■4         ':         4 

3-4 

4 

2      i  3—4 

4 

1—2    :        2 

1 

2—3 

1-2 

1—2 

5      ;      3 

3 

4-3 

4—5  i  4—3 

3—4 

4 

2      :  3-4 

4 

I      i      2 

1 

2-3 

1—2 

1-2 

5      1      3 

3 

4—3 

4-5 ; 4—3 

3—4 

4 

2      :  3-4 

4 

1         2-1 

1 

2-3 

1-2 

1—2 

5           3 

3 

4—3 

4-5     4-3 

3—4 

4 

2_3  ■  3-4 

2ale 


26 


Tabulated  Survey  o\  the  DyestufFs  used  in  Wool   Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Scarlet  G 


Scarlet  R 


Scarlet  RR 


Scarlet  3R 


Scarlet  4R 


2.5% 


Scarlet  5R 


Scarlet  6R 


Wilh  10*0  ("ilaulier>  s;ill 
and  4 "  o  sulphuric  acid : 
the  |;<i<>ds  arc  entered  al 
100-120°  K.,  the  Kith 
heated  t<i  ihi:  IkiII.  and  kept 
iHiilini;  for   1    hour. 


Wilh  10— 20"o  Glauber's 
salt  and  3"o  sulphuric  acid; 
the  goods  arc  entered  al 
120°  F.,  the  hath  healed 
to  the  boil,  and  kept  boiling 
for  ■'',',  —  1   hour. 


With  20",,  <il.iuber's  salt 
and  :{"„  sulphuric  acid;  the 
KoihIs  are  enlcretl  al  120"  1"'., 
the  b.ilh  hcatrtl  slowly  |o 
the  l)<)il,  and  kept  boiling 
for  1  hour.  For  goods  which 
do  not  penetrate  easily  the 
ijuantity  of  ("ilaiiber's  salt 
must  be  increascti,  or  fonnic 
acid  used  instead  of  sulphuric 
.icid. 


Fast  to  bliathing  and  fairly  fast  to  li;;l;i 
Usc-d  on  slubbingand  yam,  for  goods  win. 
kive  to  stand  light  milling  in  soap  .jim 
water,  and  on  piece  goods  for  scarlet  sh.idr 

fast  to  stoving. 

The    yellower    brand  GG    is    used    i 

the  same  manner. 


Fast  to  stoving,  but  not  as  fast  to  light  as 
Victoria  Scarlet  Largely  used  on  yams  for 
light  milling  with  soap  or  water,  on  knitting-, 
embroider)--,  car|)et-,  and  fancy  yarns,  also 
on  ladies'  dress  goods,  raised  goods  and  wi'ol 
hats  for  red  and  claret   red  shades. 


F;isler  to  light  than  the  other  scarlets,  but 
not  as  fast  lo  stoving.  Cn  .account  of  f.astness 
to  light  and  cheapness,  used  on  slubbing, 
yarn  and  piece  goods,  where  fastness  to 
stoving  is  not  required. 


Acid  Colours. 


27 


c 

"5 
p 
a* 
W 

Affinity  for 

o 
m  c 

o 

^2 

o 

O  bo 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

o 
in  c 

1* 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

1 

Cotton;   Silk 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda 

■   Quick 
:    Lime 

3 

2-3 

3 

1 

3 

1-2 

1 

1-2 

2 

3-4 

4 

3 

5 

3 

4 

1-2 

2 

1 

3 

2 

3 

1 

3 

1 

1 

1-2 

2 

3-4 

4 

3 

5 

3 

4 

1-2 

2 

3 

2 

3 

1 

3 

1 

1 

1-2 

2 

3 

4 

3 

5 

3 

4 

1-2 

2 

1 

3 

1-2 

3 

1 

3 

1 

1 

1-2 

2 

3 

4 

3 

5 

3 

4 

1-2 

2 

- 

1-2 

3 

1 

3 

1 

1 

1-2 

2 

3 

4 

3 

5 

3 

4 

1-2 

2 

4 

1 

3 

1 

2-3 

1-2 

2 

5 

2 

3 

4 

3-4 

5 

3 

4 

3 

3 

4 

1 

2 

1 

3-2 

1 

1 

5 

2 

3 

4 

4 

4 

3 

4 

3-2 

3-4 

2S 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dycstuffs  used  in  ^"ool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Scarlet  OR  cryst. 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


With  20%  Gbul)cr's  salt 
and  3  7o  sulphuric  acid; 
llic  j;cHids  arc  entered  at 
120-140°  I-.,  the  hath 
healed  t"  the  boil  and  kept 
boilini;  for   1   linur. 


Fast  Red  O 


Fast  Red  S 


Brilliant  Crimson  O 


With  10-20'';o  r.lanbcr's 
s.ill  and  3"'o  sulphuric  acid; 
the  g<KKls  arc  entered  at 
120°  I-".,  the  bath  heated 
to  the  lioil,  and  kept  boiling 
for  1  hour. 


With  20  "/o  Glauber's  salt 
and  :S",o  sulphuric  acid;  the 
j;oods  arc  entered  at  1 20  "  F-, 
the  bath  heated  slowly  to 
the  boil  and  kept  boiling  for 
1  hour,  l-'or  goods  which 
dn  not  dye  through  easily 
the  bath  is  prepared  with 
formic  acid,  acetic  acid  or 
acetate  of  ammonia,  instead 
of  with  sulphuric  acid,  and 
is  exhausted  with  sul]ilnnic 
acid. 


With  10—20°;,,  Glauber's 
salt  and  3"/o  sulphuric  acid; 
(lie  goods  are  entered  at 
120—140°  y..  the  baih 
heated  to  the  boil,  and  kept 
boiling  for  1   hour. 


Equal   to  Scarlets  R — 4R  as  regards  fxstness 

to  stoving,    water,    milling  and  light;    used, 

like  these,  for  reds  fast  to  stoving  on  slubbing, 

yarn-,  and  |)iece  goods. 


Pure  full  Scarlet  fairly  fast  to  light,  washing, 
and  milling.  Used  on  slubbing  yam  and 
piece  goods  in  self  shades  fast  to  light; 
stable  to  chrome,  therefore  suitable  for 
shading  red  chrome  developing  colours  and 
for  brightening  and  bluing  the  s;une. 


Extensively  used  for  dark  reds  on  slubbing, 

yarn,  piece  goods,  and  plush  as  a  cheap 

red  fast  to  alkalies,  and  fairly  f.ast  to  light. 

The  brand  S  yields  shades  faster  to  nd)bing 

than  the  brand  O. 

Roar/fttf  N  possesses  similar  ]>roperties. 

Dischargeable  with  hydrosulphite. 


E.ast  to  liglit  and  .ilkalies.  Used  as  foundation 
for  claret  red,  red,  and  redbrown,  alone  or 
in  combination  with  other  acid  colours  on 
all  kinds  of  yarns  and  piece  goods,  on 
cheap  suitings  also  as  red  ingredient  for 
browns  and  navy  blues.  Brillianl  Criimon 
li  is  rather  more  bluish.  Dischai'geable  with 
hydnisulphite. 


Victoria  Rubine  O 


With  10—20  ";„  Glauber's 
s.ilt  and  3"'/o  sulphuric  acid; 
the  goods  are  entered  at 
1'20— 140°  I-".,  the  balh 
healed  to  the  boil,  and  kipi 
boiling   f.M-   I    h.Mii, 


Bluer  in  shade,  otherwise  equal  to  Brilliant 
Crimson  O,  and  used  in  the  same  manner. 
To  this  class  of  colours  may  be  added 
I'iclorin  Rubine  G  and  the  brands  .l/mi- 
iiinth  O,  f:  and  Brilliant  Rubine  O  which 
are  slightly  faster  to  stoving. 
Dischargeable  with  hydrosnlpliile. 


Acid  Colours. 


29 


00 

c 
■« 

3 

cr 

Affinity  for 

o 
tn  c 

"IS 

o 

Si 
c  « 

si 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

is 

c2 

o 

■"  UJ 
in  c 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to      Fastness  to 
Milling             Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda       QV|;^ 

4-3 

1-2 

3 

1 

3 

1 

1-2 

2 

2 

3 

4 

3-4 

5 

3 

4 

2    ;    3 

4 

3-4 

4 

2 

2-3 

2 

1 

2 

2 

3 

3 

2-3 

4 

2-3 

3-4 

2-3  \      2 

4 

4-3 

4 

2 

4—3 

1 

1-2 

2-3 

2 

3-4 

3-4 

3 

4 

3 

3-4 

2      ;  2-3 

4 

- 

2-3 

3 

1-2 

4-3 

1 

1-2 

3-2 

2 

3 

4 

4 

4 

3 

4-3 

2-3  i      3 

4-3 

2 

3 

1 

2—3 

1-2 

1-2 

2 

'     2 

3 

4 

4 

4 

3-4 

4 

3     1     2 

i     4 

1 

2 

1 

3-2 

2 

2 

2 

1-2 

3 

4-3 

3—4 

4 

3-4 

4 

3        2-3 

4 

1 

2 

1 

3-2 

2 

2 

2 

2 

3 

4-3 

3-4 

4 

3—4 

4 

3      :  2-3 

Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestufts  used  in  VI'ool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Dianil  Red  K 


Delta  Purpurine  5B      q 


Brilliant  Dianil  Red  R 


Willi  10-20%  Glauber's 
-all  aiul  ri"o  acetalc  of 
.iriimonia;  llic  gixids  are 
enlerea  at  100—120°  F., 
the  l>atli  healed  to  the  boil, 
and  kept  lioiling  for  1  —  1  '/j 
hours.  For  dark  shade  the 
balli  is  exhausted  by  an 
addition  of  1— 2"ii  aeetic 
acid. 


With  10— 20%  Glauber's 
salt  and  5%  acetate  of  am- 
monia or  3"o  acetic  acid; 
the  j;(x>ds  are  entered  at 
120"  F.,  the  bath  is  heated 
111  the  boil,  .ind  kept  boiling 
whilst  2 — 5 %  acetic  acid 
are  added. 


With  10—20%  Gl.iuber's 
salt  and  5  °'o  acetate  of  am- 
monia, the  goods  arc  entered 
at  120"  F.  and  boiled  for 
1  — 1'/»  hours;  if  required, 
2 — 4  "  o  acetic  acid  .are  added. 


Largely    used    for    chcip    knitting    yarns 

i  and  hosiery  goods,    on    .account   of  their 

linctorial    strength    and     their     fastness     to 

washing  and  to  water. 


Fast  to  water,  washing  and  milling,  and 
especially  to  light;  lai^ely  used,  as  fast  red, 
in  f.ist  wool  dyeing  on  loose  wool,  slubbing 
and  yarn.  Aflertreatment  with  chrome 
enhances  its  f.astness.     Compare  page  82. 


On  account  of  their  good  fastness  to  waui 
and  milling  used  in  the  same  manner  .as 
Di.anil  Red  4B,  R,  Delta  Purpurine  .5B 
(see  above),  and  also  for  shading  these  colours. 


Acid  Colours. 


Affinity  for 

o 

in  C 

C  J2 

o 
ID  bD 

o       , 
■w  bO 

1"^ 

o  be 

•"  c 

S  '5 
Si 

Ic3 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

o 
■"  bX) 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

■ 
Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastnees  to 
Alkalies 

"m     1 

3       ( 

cr 
W 

Cotton; 

Silk 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change | 

Bleeding 

Change : 

Bleeding 

Soda    ■■ 

Quick 

5 

5 

3-4 

2-3 

3 

1 

4 

4 

1-2 

3 

3-2 

2 

2 

2 

2—1 

1 

1-2 

5 

5 

3—4 

2 

3 

1 

4 

3 

1 

3 

3 

2 

2-1 

2 

2-1 

1 

1-2 

5 

5 

3—4 

2 

3 

1 

4 

3 

1 

3 

3 

2 

1-2 

2 

2-1 

1 

1-2 

5 

5 

3 

2 

3 

1 

4 

2-3 

1-2 

3 

3 

2, 

2 

2 

2 

1 

1-2 

5 

5 

4-3 

3 

2-3 

1 

3 

2 

1—2 

3 

3 

2 

2-3 

2 

2 

1 

1-2 

5 

5 

:  3-4 

2 

4 

1-2 

2-3 

4-5 

i      1 

3 

3 

2 

i  2-3 

2 

1  2-1 

1 

1-2 

5 

5 

\     2 

1—2 

2 

1 

3 

2 

!      1 

3 

3 

2 

:  2-3 

2 

;  2-3 

1 

:  1-2 

32 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  DyestufFs  used  in  W  ool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Claret  Red  G 


Claret  Red  B 


Claret  Red  R  extra 


Cloth  Red  O 


Dianil  Claret  Red  G 


Willi  2U",g  Gl;iiil>cr's  salt 
and  2 — 3 "jo  sulpluiric  acid; 
ihc  K"'"*!*  "'■''  I'mcred  3' 
120°  I-'.,  tlie  iMth  heated  to 
the  iMiil  and  kept  boiling  for 
1  hour.  When  dyeinj;  hihhIs 
which  do  not  etjiudizc  easily 
llic  sulphuric  acid  is  replaced 
liy  formic  acid,  acetic  acid, 
or  acetate  of  annnonia  and 
some  sulphuric  acid  is  finally 
added. 


With  2'l"/„  Glauber's  salt 
and  2 — 8",ii  sulphuric  acid; 
the  goods  are  entered  at 
HO"  I-".,  the  bath  heated  slowly 
and  boiled  for  1  hour;  or 
first  boileil  with  Glauber's 
salt,  acetate  of  ammonia  or 
acetic  acid,  and  2%  sidphuric 
acid  added. 


Used  frequently  on  yarn,  pieces,  and  on 
slubbing  for  full  red  and  blucish  red  sLipIc 
colours.  Besides  these  there  are  on  the 
market:  Claret  Red Ry  3K,  O  extra,  B  extra 
and  O,  also  Fast  Claret  Red  O,  and  Naphthol 
Riibine  O. 


Dianil  Claret  Red  B 


Dianil  Violet  H 


Dyed  with  10— 20''/„  Glau- 
ber's  salt  and  .S"/„  acitate 
of  annnonia  at  100  - 120"  I-'.; 
the  bath  is  heated  slowly  to 
the  boil,  kept  boiling  for 
1- — !'/»  houre;  and  if  neces- 
sary, exhausted  by  adding 
2 — 4%  acetic  ;icid. 


Fast  to  light;  an  aftertreatment  with  fluoride  j 
of  chrome  or  bichrome  turns  the  shade  bluer 
and  enhances  the  fastness  to  milling.  Used 
on  loose  wool,  slubbing,  yarn  and 
heavy  piece  goods  either  as  an  acid 
dyestuff,  or  aflertreated ;  also  in  combination 
with  extnicls  and  wood  colours  for  goods 
which  have  to  stand  nulling. 


Dn  account  of  their  fastness  to  water  and 
washing,  ciiiploye<l  in  the  same  inanner  as 
the  Dianil  Reds  (see  previous  page);  used 
for  shading  these  in  dyeing  hosiery  yarns, 
and   in   the   manufacture  of  flannels. 


Acid  Colours. 


33 


1  .« 

3 

W 

Affinity  for 

o 

■"  bo 
m  c 

o 

2  m 

O   M 

1(3 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

Is 

o 

■"  bo 

s  « 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

Change 

Bleeding 

Cbangc  ;  Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

S"-!^    i    Lime 

4 

2 

3 

1-2 

3 

2 

1-2 

2 

2 

3 

4 

3      1      4 

3-4 

3-4 

3      :  2—3 

4 

2 

3 

1—2 

3 

2—3 

1—2 

2 

2-1 

3 

4 

3           4 

3-4 

3-4 

3      ;  2-3 

4 

3 

3 

1—2 

3 

- 

1-2 

2 

2-1 

3 

4 

3      :     4 

3-4 

3—4 

:  1 
3      i  2-3 

4-5 

3~4 

3-4 

2 

2 

2 

2 

3 

1-2 

2—3 

3 

4—3  :  3—4 

3-2 

3 

3  •  I    2 

1 
5 

5 

3 

3 

4 

1 

2 

3 

1—2 

3 

3 

2        :        3 

2 

2—3 

2     ;  1-2 

5 

5 

3-4 

3 

4 

1 

3 

3 

1—2 

3 

3 

2      ;  3—2 

2 

;  2-3 

2        1-2 

•> 

3 

3 

2-3 

1 

3 

3 

1—2 

3 

3 

2      \  2—3 

2 

i      2 

1-2  ;  1-2 

31e 


Tabulated  Survey   of  the  DyestufFs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Fast  Brown  O 


Fast  Brown  L 


Commenced  with  10— 20'';o 

Glaiihcr's  s.ill  and  h  "„  acetate 
of  ammonia,  at  120-  140°  K.; 
the  bath  is  heated  slowly  to 
the  boil,  kept  boilmj;  for 
1 '/,  hours ;  for  dark  shades 
2 — 4%  acetic  acid  are  finally 
added. 


Dianil  Brown  G 


With  10—20%  (dauber's 
salt  and  3%  sulphuric  acid; 
the  goods  are  entered  at 
120—140°  !•'.,  and  the  bath 
heated    slowly    to    the    boil. 


With  10— 20°;„  Glauber's 
salt  and  5°/ii  acetate  of  am- 
monia; the  gooils  are  entered 
at  120—140°  v.:  the  bath 
heated  slowly  to  the  boil, 
and  kept  boiling  for  1 — I'/j 
hours;  for  dark  coloiu-s  the 
bath  is  exhausted  with  2 — 4°/o 
acetic  acid. 


(In  account  of  its  fastness  to  washing  chiefly 

used  in  dyeing  slubbing  and  yam  for  hositiy 

goods. 


Used  on  weaving  and  knitting  yams  and 

piece  goods  made  from  carded  yarns, 

as  a  cheap  brown   and  in  combination  with 

other  acid  dycstuffs. 


With  10  ",u  (-ilaiil'cr's  salt  .ind 

4  "jo  sulphuric  acid  at  the  boil 

for  1   hour. 


Fast  to  washing,  therefore  largely  used  on 
slubbing  and  yarns  for  knitted  goods 
and  other  articles  which  demand  f;istness  to 

washing. 

Dianil  Brown  2G,  R,  j/f,  B,  D,  and  Dianil 

Fast  Brown  R  ser\e  the  same  puiposcs. 


Level  dyeing  colour  used  on  zephyr-  and 
fancy  yarns  for  light  piece  goods  (Brad- 
ford) alone  or  in  combination  with  other  level 
dyeing  acid  dyestuffs.  The  weaker  brand 
Azo  Acid  Brown  RO  possesses  llie  same 
properdcs. 


Acid  Colours. 


•H 

3 

w 

Affinity  for 

o 
■"  ho 

in  C 

o 
a 

2m 
■5!  "^ 

O  W) 

^6 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

II 

o 
tn.C 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

SoO.        S 

',     5 

5 

3 

3 

4-3 

2-3 

3-4 

2-3 

2 

3-4 

3-4 

2 

4 

2 

3-4 

2     '■■     2 

4 

3 

3 

2 

3-4 

1-2 

1-2 

2 

2 

4 

4-3 

3 

5 

3 

4 

1  -2  ;      2 

:       4 

3-  4 

3—4 

2 

3-4 

2 

2 

2-3 

2 

4 

4-3 

3 

•^ 

3 

4 

1-2  1      2 

5 

5 

3 

3 

4-3 

2-3 

2-3 

2 

2 

3 

3 

2 

3 

2 

2-3 

2      i  1-2 

• 

5 

5 

3 

3 

4-3 

1-2 

3 

2-3 

2-3 

3 

3 

2 

4 

2 

3 

2     ;  1-2 

5 

5 

3 

3 

3-4 

1 

2 

1-2 

:    2 

3 

3 

2 

:    3 

2 

2—3 

1-2   :   1-2 

1-2 

1 

;    ^ 

2 

3-4 

2 

2-1 

2 

;  1-2 

4-3 

4 

5 

4 

3-4 

!      4 

2           4 

■3r, 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestuffs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Willi    10  ",u    Glauber's    sail 

aiul    4'',u    sulphuric   acid   al 

Ihc  boil. 


With  10  ",o  Glauber's  salt 
and  4"  II  sulphuric  acid  at 
ihe  boil. 


Cheapest  level  dyeing  red  dyestuff,  though 
not  as  pure  in  shade  as  Amidonaphtliol  Ked 
and  Chromotrope.  Especially  used  on  all- 
wool  dress  goods,  as  equalising  red  foi 
all  kinds  of  conibinalion  shades.  Also  in 
self  shades  on  yarn;  suitable  for  sh.nding 
in  a  chrome  balh.  Dischargeable  with  hydro- 
sulphite.  The  bluer  brand  Azo  Acid  Rfd  $Ii 
possesses  tlie  same  properties. 


Veiy  level  dyeing  colours  distinguished  for 
purity  of  shade  and  fastness  to  light,  alkalies, 
steaming  and  ironing;  extensively  used  for 
piece  goods,  ladies'  hats,  yarns,  braids 
etc.  for  all  kinds  of  mixed  and  fancy  shades ; 
also  used  for  shading  chrome  developing 
colours. 


With    10"/,,    Glauber's    salt 

and    4"ii    sulphuric    acid    at 

the  boil. 


On  account  of  its  fastness  to  water,  washing 
and  light  used  for  red  and  combination  shades 
on  knitting  yarns,  and  yarns  which  have  to 
stand  milling  in  cold  water.  Suitable  for 
dyeing  pieces  with  silk  effects;  in  this 
case  it  is  advisable  to  use  acetic  acid. 


With    10"/o    Glauber's    s.alt 

and    4"/,,    sulphuric   acid    at 

the  boil. 


As  a  level  dyeing  red  acid  dyestuff  fast  to 
lij^lit,  and  suitable  for  all  kiiids  of  mixed  and 
light  fancy  shades  on  yarns  and  piece 
goods;  also  as  red  ingredient  for  fast 
na,ip  blues,  in  combination  with  I'alcnt 
Hliie  V,  I.,  LE  etc. 


Acid  Colours. 


37 


C 

3 

cr 
W 

Afifinity  for 

o 
■"  be 

in-S 

o 

a 
fa 

o 

■"   bO 
m  C 

C    M 

c2^ 

O   M 

S  '3 
SS 

in  i^ 
a  a 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

P 

fa 

2w 

in  c 

s  « 
fa 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  lo 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

Change   Bleedings 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda 

Quii:k 
Lime 

2 

2 

2 

1-2 

2-3 

2 

2-3 

1-2 

1-2 

3-4 

4 

4-5 

4 

4-3 

4 

2 

3-4 

2 

1 

2-3 

1 

2 

1-2 

2-3 

2-1 

1-2 

4-3 

4-3 

4-5 

4 

3-4 

4 

2 

3 

2 

1 

2-3 

1 

2-3 

1—2 

2 

1—2 

1—2 

4-3 

4-3 

4 

4 

3-4 

4 

2 

3 

2 

1 

2-3 

1 

3-2 

1—2 

2-1 

1-2 

1—2 

3-4 

4-3 

4 

4 

3—4 

4 

2 

3-4 

:', 

1 

1-2 

1 

2 

2-3 

2—1 

1—2 

1 

3-2 

3 

3 

4-3 

3-2 

3 

1-2 

2 

2 

2 

8 

2 

2-3 

2 

1—2 

1-2 

2 

3-4 

4—3 

4 

4 

8—4 

3-4 

2-3 

3 

2 

2 

3 

2 

2-3 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

2—1 

3-4 

4—3 

4 

4 

3-4 

3-4 

2-3 

3 

38 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestufts  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Archil  Substitute  G 


Application 


„•■  .      ■«..      ,-■     1     .         1         Level  dyeing  colour,  fast  to  light.    Used  on 
■  '..°",u        *""*-,         '    y-Tn  and  piece  goods  for  the  production 
""'    *  '"  1"''*"'?''  ■■"   :    "f   nil    kinds   of  brown  and  fancy  shades  in 

combination  with  otlier  eijualising  dyi-sluffs. 


With    10°/o    Glauber's    salt 

and    4°/u    sulphuric    acid    at 

the  boil. 


With  10%  Glauber's  salt 
and  4''ii  sulphuric  acid;  the 
goods  are  entered  at  140"  !•".. 
the  bath  heated  to  the  boil 
and  kept  boiling  for  1  liour. 


Level  dyeing  dyestuffs  of  great  fastness  to 
light.  Suitable  for  mixed  and  fancy  shades 
of  all  kinds  on  yarn  and  piece  goods  wheie 
fastness  to  light  is  requireJi.  Between  these 
two  brands  ranges  Chromotropc  liB.  Chromo- 
trope  6B  is  especially  used  in  combination 
with  Patent  Blue  V,  Fast  Acid  Green  Bli 
etc.,  for  fast  navy  blues. 


On  account  of  their  fastness  to  light  used 
on  yarn  and  piece  goods  for  Tast  dark 
red  and  combination  shades.  More  fre<iucnlly 
used  as  chrome  developing  dyestuffs;  compare 
p.ngc  90  and  92. 


With    10";,,    Glauber's    s.iU 

an<l    4  "o    sulphuric   acid    at 

the  boil. 


With     10",,    C.lauber-s    salt 

and    -1 "  „    sulphuric   acid    at 

the  boil. 


Level  dyeing  colour  fast  to  water  and  washing. 
Used  on  slubbing  for  knitting  yarn  melanges; 
on  yarns,  which  must  stand  light  milling 
with  water  and  soap;  on  hosiery  and  knitting 
yarns;  also  on  piece  goods  for  navy  blue, 
Russian  green  etc.,  shades  in  combination 
with  Patent  Blue,  Indigo  substitute,  Naph- 
thaline (ircen  etc.  Finally,  suitable  for  all- 
wool  materials  with  silk  effects. 


Level  dyeing  colours  not  as  fast  to  water 
and  w.-ishing,  but  faster  to  light  than  Victoria 
Violet  4BS;  lai^ely  used  on  piece  goods 
for  navy  blues  etc. ;  on  carded  and  worsted 
materials,  ladies  dress  goods  etc.;  also  on 
carjiet  vims  etc. 


Acid  Colours. 


bo 

C 

"a 

a 
cr 
W 

Affinity  for 

o 

So! 

o 

IS 

o 
m.S 

s  s 

o  be 

S  'S 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

in    ^ 

m  "J 

o 

■"   bB 
m  c 

5  5 

1^ 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda 

Quick 
Lime 

i     ^ 

2 

3 

1-2 

2—3 

2 

■J 

1-2 

2 

4 

4 

4 

4—5 

4 

4 

3 

4 

2 

1 

3 

1 

2 

2 

1-2 

1 

2 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4-5 

4 

3-4 

4 

2-3 

1-2 

3 

1 

2-3 

2 

2-3 

1-2 

2 

3-4 

4 

4-5 

3 

4 

4 

3    . 

4 

4 

1 

2 

1 

3-2 

2 

1-2 

1 

1-2 

3 

4 

4 

3 

4—3 

4 

4-3 

4 

4 

2 

,   3 

1 

3-2 

2—1 

1-2 

1 

1—2 

3 

4 

3-4 

3 

3-4 

4 

3-4 

3-4 

3-2 

i 

1 

I      2 

1 

4 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

3-2 

3-2 

2—3 

1  2-3 

3 

3 

3-4 

3 

2—3 

1 

!     ^ 

1-2 

3 

1—2 

1 

1-2 

1-2 

4 

4 

4 

:    •* 

4 

i  4-3 

3-4 

4 

40 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestuffs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Azo  Acid  Blue  B 


Azo  Acid  Blue  8B  cone. 


Naphtaline  Blue  BN  cone.  pat. 


AVilh     10"„    C.lauhcr's    salt 

and    4";a   sulphuric   acid    at 

tlic  boil. 


With  .50— 100%  Glauber's 
salt  .ind  3  °/o  sulphuric  acid; 
the  goods  are  entered  at  a 
medium  temperature,  the  bath 
then  heated  to  the  boil  and 
kept  boiling  for  1  hour;  in 
old  baths  10",'o  Glauber's  salt 
and  4 "o  sulphuric  add  are 
sufficient. 


Naphtaline  Blue  V  pat. 


Naphtaline  Blue  BH  pat. 


With  10%  Ghiibci^s  salt 
and  4%  sulphuric  acid  at 
the  boil. 


Similar  in  all  respects  to  Victoria  Violet  4BS 

(see  previous  page)    and   used  for  the  same 

pur]X)ses.     Scr\e    as  a  cheap   base  for  navy 

blue  and  other  dark  shades. 


Strong  and  cheap  colour  fast  to  water, 
washing  and  wearing.  Used  for  knitting 
and  weaving  yarns  which  are  required  to 
be  fast  t  ostoving,  washing,  rubbing,  and  to 
light  milling.  On  piece  goods  for  n.ivy 
blue.  The  weaker  brand  3BO  possesses  the 
same  properties. 


Satisfactorily  fast  to  light,  alkalies,  washing, 
rubbing  and  steaming.  On  account  of  their 
cheapness  they  are  extensively  used  for  the 
production  of  navy  shades ,  alone  or  in 
combination  with  other  equalising  dyestuffs 
on  light  worsted  and  carded  goods,  for 
ladies' hats;  also  for  knitting,  embroidery, 
fancy  and  zephyr  yams.  Of  the  specified 
br.-inds  B  is  the  oldest  and  most  used ;  BX 
cone,  is  stronger,  rather  greener  in  shade 
and  somewhat  faster  to  light,  V  gives  a  more 
covered    Na\y    blue,    .and    BH    is  especially 

adapted  to  greener,  duller  shades. 

For  further  Xai>hlhalinc  Blue  brands  see  the 

following  jiagc. 


Acid  Colours. 




c 
[m 
"a 

3 

a* 
W 

Affinity  for 

o 
m  c 

o 

V  so 

2m 

cn.S 
c  5 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

m    ^ 

c2 

o 

m  S 
V  S 

1^ 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Allialies 

Cotton 

;   Silk 

Change 

iBleeding 

Change  !  Bleeding 

Change 

I  Bleeding 

Soda 

:    Quick 
;    Lime 

3-2 

2 

2-3 

1 

4 

2 

1—2 

1-2 

1 

3-2 

3-2 

2-3 

3—2 

3 

3 

3 

:  2-3 

2-3 

2- 

2 

1 

4 

z 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

3 

3-2 

3 

3 

3 

3 

3 

2-3 

4 

3 

3 

2 

3—4 

1-2 

1-2 

1—2 

1 

3-2 

2-3 

2—3 

3 

3-2 

3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2 

3 

1-2 

3-4 

2-3 

2 

2 

1—2 

3—4 

3 

3 

3 

3      ; 

2-3 

3 

2—3 

3 

1-2 

3-2 

1—2 

3—4 

S-2 

2 

2—3 

1-2 

3 

3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2 

3 

1—2 

3—4 

3-2 

2 

3-2 

2-1 

3 

3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2—3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2      ; 

3 

2-1 

3— t 

8-2 

2 

2—3 

2—1 

3—4 

3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2—3 

3 

3-2 

Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestuffs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Naplitaline  Blue  ON  extra  pat. 


Naphtaline  Blue  I,  R  pit. 


Naphtaline  Blue  B  extra  pat. 


Naphtaline  Blue  R  pat. 


Naphtaline  Blue  J  pat 


With  10",,  ril.-Hilier's  s.ilt 
and  4"o  siilphiiric  acid  M 
llie  Ixiil. 


With     10  »„    rd.nil.cr"s    s.ili 

.nnd    4"((    sulplniric    aciiX    at 

the  lH.il. 


Possessing    the    same    properties,    and    iist-d 
for  the  same  inirj)Oses  as  the  brands  specified 

on  the  previous  p-ige. 
DN  extra  is  brighter  than  B  and  also 
somewhat  f.islcr  to  steaming;  LR  is  brighter, 
redder  and  faster  to  steaming  than  DX  extra: 
in  combination  with  Patent  Blue  \'  it  yields 
especially  cheap  navy  blues  fast  to  steaming. 
Naphthaline  Blue  R  is  especially  suitable 
for  bright  reddish  shades  in  combination  with 
Acid  \'iolet  etc ,  whereas  the  J  brand  is 
employed  for  darker,  covered  navy  shades. 
Largely  used  are  further :  Naphtaline  liluf  D 
and  />'  extra,  which  can  be  classed  with  the 
brand  B,  also  DX  which  closely  apprtxichcs 
DK  extra  in  its  properties,  and  Naphtaline 
nine  DI.  which,  besides  being  cheap,  excels 
in  f.istness  to  steaming  and  to  light. 


Not  tpiitc  as  f.ist  to  washing,  but  faster  to 
light  than  the  Naphtaline  Blues.  Vsed  on 
yarn  and  piece  goods,  where  f-istness  to 
light  is  essential,  c<insequent!y  for  dyeing 
carpet-,  embroider)'-,  and  fancy  yarns,  ladies' 
highclass  dress  goods  etc. 


With     10 "„    Cilauber's    salt 

anil    A" n    sulphuric    acid    at 

the  boil. 


Yields  shades  f.->sl  to  nibbing  anil  tc.  liylit. 
Used  for  dark  blackblues  for  ladies'  dress 
giMHis  and  cheap  suitings.  Similar  is  the 
brand  O  eon,:,  which  is  faster  to  water  but 
docs  not  equalize  well. 


Acid  Colours. 


43 


cr 

Affinity  for 

o 

In    3 

o 

2  m 
c  n 

o  so 

S'S 
Si 

Id 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

2 

o 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda 

Quick 
Lime 

3-2 

2 

3-4 

1-2 

3-4 

2 

2 

2 

2-1 

3-4 

3-4 

3-4 

3 

3 

3 

3-2 

3-2  ! 

3 

1-2 

3 

1-2 

4-3 

2 

2 

2—3 

2 

3—4 

3 

3-2 

3 

3 

3 

3 

2-3 

3 

1-2 

3 

1—2 

4-3 

2-3 

2 

2-3 

1-2 

3-4 

3 

3 

3 

2-3 

2-3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2 

3 

1-2 

3-4 

2-3 

2 

2-3 

1-2 

3—4 

3 

3 

3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2-3  1 

3 

2 

3 

1—2 

4-3 

2—3 

2 

3-2 

2 

3-4 

3 

3-2 

3 

2-3 

2-3 

3 

2-3 

2-3 

1 

3 

1-2 

3 

2 

1-2 

2 

2 

4—3 

4 

4 

3 

3-4 

3 

3-2 

3 

2-3 

1-2 

8 

1—2 

3-2 

2-3 

2 

2 

2-3 

3-4 

4 

3-4 

4 

3-4 

4 

3 

2-3  1 

Tabulated  Survey  of  the  DycstufFs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Wilh  10— 20"«  (".laubcr's 
sail  and  3  "o  acetic  acid;  tlic 
HikkIs  arc  entered  at  140°  I'., 
the  hath  heated  to  the  boil ; 
after  '/t  hr.  Imilin^  2-  -3"o 
sulphuric  acid  are  gradually 
added,  and  the  liquid  kept 
boilini;  for  another  '/i  hour. 


Fast  to  on  light  and  wearing.  Suitable  for 
darkblues  on  cheap  suitings,  also  on  ma- 
terial with  cotton  effects;  on  slubbingand 
yarn  where  no  |>articular  fastness  to  milling 
is  reiiuired. 


With    10»/„    Glauber's    salt 

and    4%  sulphuric  acid,    at 

the  boil. 


Best  equalising  acid  bUack  similar  in  shade 
to  logwood  black.  Used  on  zephyr-  and 
fancy  yarns,  for  ladies'  light  dress  goods, 
where  no  great  demands  arc  made  as  regards 
fastness  to  light. 


With  20-100",,,  (ilauber's 
sail  and  4"',>  sulphuric  .acid, 
al  the  boil;  in  old  baths 
10",,  Glauber's  salt  :ind  4"o 
sulphuric  acid,  are  sufficient. 


Range    with    the    other  Azo  Acid  Black   1, 

brands  specified  on  the  following  page;   they 

are    as    fast    to    light    as    these,    but    rather 

redder  in  shade. 


Acid  Colours. 


45 


C 
3 

w 

Affinity  for 

o 
m  C 

o 

Si 

o 

In  ^^ 

O   bD 

s  s 
si 

«  a 
faU 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

irt    t- 

o 
*"  bo 

m  c 

£  S 
1^ 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

S  "9 

1 J 
a 
fa 

Change  i 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda    I 

Quick 
Lime 

1 

1-2 

2 

1-2 

3-4 

2 

1 

3     \ 

1 

2-3 

3-4 

3-2 

1 

3-4  1 

3 

2—3 

2     I 

\ 

2 

2-3 

2-3 

3 

1 

4-5 

1-2 

2 

2      I 

2-3 

4 

4 

4 

4-5 

3-4 

4 

3 

3 

i  2—3 

2-8 

:       3 

1 

4-5 

1-2 

2 

2 

2-3 

4 

4 

4 

\  4-0 

3—4 

\     4 

3 

j 
3     1 

2-3 

2-3 

i      3 

1 

4-5 

2 

2 

2—3 

2 

4 

4 

4 

\  4—5 

3-4 

;    4 

3 

,,  ' 

3 

2-3 

\      3 

1 

4-3 

2 

2 

2 

2 

3 

4 

3-4 

i      4 

3-4 

;     4 

2-3 

2-3 

i 

3 

2-3 

i      3 

1 

4-3 

2 

2 

2 

1  1—2 

3 

4 

3—4 

;     4 

3-4 

:    4 

2-3 

;  2-3 

i  2-3 

3 

2 

j     3 

1--2 

4 

2 

2 

2 

:    1-2 

4 

4 

4-3 

1  4-5 

3-4 

1      4 

3-2 

Tabulated  Survey  of  the  DycstufFs  used  in  ^"ool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Azo  Acid  Black  3BLOO  pat. 


Azo  Acid  Black  SP.K  extra  pat. 


Azo  Add  Black  TL  extra  pat. 


In  a  ntwbath  wilh  20— 100"  o 
GlaulxT's  salt  ami  4  "  o  sul- 
phuric acid  at  the  Imil,  for  a 
standing  hath  10"<iGlaul>cr"s 
salt  and  4°o  sulphuric  add, 
arc  sufficient.  Kur  goods 
with  cotton  effects  or  cotton 
selvedges  the  acidity  of  the 
bath  is  slightly  increased. 


Azo  Acid  Black  K  L  extra  pat. 


Azo  Acid  Black  KRL  extra  pat. 


In  a  new  bath  with:  .50  100°,o 
Glauber's  salt  and  4"„  sul- 
phuric acid,  at  the  Ixiil ;  in  old 
baths  witli:  10 "o  Glauber's 
salt  and  4"o  sulphuric  acid. 


Same  .is  Azo  Acid  Black  3BL 
extra  (see  above). 


Equalise  vcrj'  well  in  an  .acid  bath,  and 
yield  blucblack  and  jetblack  shades  which 
are  in  no  way  inferior  in  depth  and  bloom 
to  those  of  logwood  dyed  in  three  baths, 
and  are  as  fast  to  light  as  these.  The 
brands  most  used  are:  3BI,  extra  (blueblack) 
and  TL  extra  (jetblack I  cither  alone  or  in 
combmalion  with  each  other  for  the  production 
of  all  current  black  shades.  3BLOO  is 
rather  bluer  and  fuller  than  3BL  extra;  and 
faster  to  acid.  On  account  of  their  good 
equalising  ])ropertics  and  l>cauty  of  shade 
they  are  most  extensively  used,  instead  of 
logwiHKl  black,  for  ladies'  dress  gotnls  also 
for  ladies'  hats  and  for  zephyr-  and  fancy 
yarns. 


Possess  excellent  equalising  pro]>ertics;  'they 
give  bright  full  black  shades:  they  arc  faster 
to  water,  alkalies  and  especLiUy  to  light  than 
the  brands  named  above,  and  are  largely 
used  in  piece  dyeing  for  full  black  shades 
f.Tsi  to  wearing  on  ladies'  l>etter  and  heavier 
dress  goods  .-ind  light  suitings. 


Closely  resemble  .4zo  AciJ  Black  3BL  extra 

or     TL    extra    as     regards    properties    and 

application. 


Acid  Colours. 


47 


p 
a" 

Affinity  for 

o 

c  ^ 

o 

o 

in  .5 

O    60 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

2 

o 

in  C 

s  s 

1^ 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton.  Silk 

C   « 
en  *" 

l-e 

feu 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change  : 

Mecding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda 

Quick 
Lime 

3 

2      i  3-2 

1-2 

4—3 

2 

2 

2—1 

1-2 

3—4 

4-3 

3—4  ; 

4 

3-4 

4 

2—3 

2-3 

3 

2           3 

1—2 

4-3 

2-1 

2 

2—1 

1-2 

3-4 

4-3 

3-4  ; 

4 

3-4 

4 

2—:; 

0-2 

•'• 

2     !     3 

1—2 

4 

2 

2 

2 

1—2 

4-3 

4 

3-4 

4—5 

3—4 

4 

3-2 

3—2  ' 

:;-4 

2-3  i      8 

1—2 

8-2 

2 

2-1 

1-2 

1-2 

8 

3—4 

3-4 

4-5 

3-4 

i  4-3 

2-1 

1-2 

3-4 

2-3  1      3 

1—2 

3-2 

2 

2-1 

1-2 

.  1-2 

3 

3-4 

3-4 

4-5 

3-4 

;  4—3 

2-1 

1--2 

3 

2-3         3 

1-2 

4-3 

2 

2 

2 

;  1—2 

3 

4 

3-4 

4 

3-4 

;    4 

2—3 

;  3-2 

3 

2      \      3 

1-2 

4 

2 

2 

2 

;  1-2 

4 

4 

4-3 

4—5 

3-4 

4 

3-2 

■ 

! 

i  3-2  i 

Tabulated  Survey  of  the  DyestufFs  used  in  ^Xool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Amido  Black  lOBO 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Ainido  Black  T 


Willi  20 "«  Tilauber's  sail 
and  H  "  „  sulpluiric  acid ;  g<K>ds 
which  di>  not  o<)iialise  easily 
arc  dyi'd  with  3  °o  acetic 
acid  1  —  2%  sulphuric  acid 
licing  added  after  lioiling  for 
'It  hour. 


Yield  blacks  of  very  satisfactory'  fastness  to 
light  and  wearing;  shade  and  pri>|>erties 
range  between  Azo  Acid  Black  anil  Aniido- 
naphtol  Black;  they  arc  fast  to  rubbing  and 
fairly  fast  to  washing.  Used  for  ladies' 
dress  goods  and  men's  suitings,  es|Kcially  on 
carded  material  cither  alone  or  in  combination 
with  Azo  Acid  Black;  also  for  better  class 
goods  on  account  of  their,  fastness  to  light. 
Suitable  for  /lal  dyiing  and  vool  yarn. 
Amido  Black  10  B  possesses  the  same 
properties. 


Amidonaphtol  Black  S 


Amidonaphtol  Black  RK 


With  10— 20"o  Glauber's 
salt  and  3 — 5%  acetic  acid: 
the  goods  areenteredat  120  — 
140°1''.,  the  bath  heated  to 
the  boil ;  after  boiling  for  '/j 
hour  1  —  2"o  sulphuric  acid 
are  addetl  to  exhaust  the  bath. 
Go<k1s  equalising  easily  on 
be  dyed  with  20%Gbuber's 
salt  and  1 — 2"o  sulphuric 
acid. 


Yield  cheap  blacks  fast  to  wearing.  Largely  used 
for  ladies  dress  goods  and  for  light  suitings, 
either  alone  or  in  combination  with  logwixxl, 
also  in  combination  with  A/o  Acid  Black. 
Much  used  in  hat  dyeing;  on  stubbing  and 
yarn,  where  f;islncss  to  wearing  and  mode- 
rale  f.istness  to  milling  is  required.  I-irgely 
used  arc  also :  .\midonaphtol  Black  4  B 
c.\ti-a,   BX,   4BII   .ind   X  cone. 


Acid  Colours. 


49 


^0  Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestuffs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Alph.vl  Blueblack  O 


With  20  "o  Glauber's  salt 
and  ii--')"o  acrtic  aciil,  the 
li^illi  is  exhausted  with  1 — 2"  o 
sulphuric  acid.  For  giK>ds 
c<|ualisin(;  easily  the  l)ath  can 
be  prc|)ared  initially  with 
1 — 2  "  M  sulphuric  acid  instead 
of  acetic  acid. 


Carbon  Black  3B 


Carbon  Black  B 


With  10";„  Glauber's  salt 
and  1 0  °  o  acetic  acid ;  the 
goods  arc  entered  at  a  me- 
dium temperature,  the  bath 
is  then  heated  to  ihc  boil 
and  kept  simmering  for  1  hour. 


Carbon  Black  U I ) 


Carbon  Black  T 


With  20%  GKiuber's  salt 
and  2 — 3°/o  sulphuric  acid; 
the  goods  are  entered  at 
140°  V,  the  bath  hratcd  to 
the  boil  and  kept  boiling  for 
1  hour.  Kor  goods  which 
dye  tlirough  with  difficulty 
.ind  for  lighter  shailes  the 
bath  is  prepared  with  20  "o 
Glauber's  salt  and  .S  —  .')"„ 
acetic  or  formic  acid ,  and 
after  boiling  for  '/j  hour 
1 — 2%  sulphuric  .acid  are 
added. 


Very  fast  to  light  and  washing  used  on 
yain  and  stubbing  for  light  milling,  with 
soap  and  water;  principally  employed  for 
light  dress  goods,  especially  f<ir  the  so-called 
ctimbination  bl.-ick,  viz  in  one  bath  in  con- 
junction  with  logwood,    oxalic  acid,   copper- 

and  iron  vitriol. 

ParliCTilarly    adapted    for    dyeing    wool    and 

silk  materials,    on  account  of   covering  both 

fibres  equally  well. 


Used  for  self  shades  on  silk  and  wool 
material,  gloria  etc.,  producing  bloomy  blue- 
black  shades  which  are  very  fast  to  light.  Both 
fibres  arc  dyed  e<|ually  well.  In  order  to 
obtain  a  jet  to  full  black  //  is  combined  with 
Sili   Wool  Black   T. 


Fast  to  light,  rubbing  and  water.  Used  on 
stubbing  and  yarn  for  goods  intended  for 
light  milling  with  soap  and  water;  extensi- 
vely used  on  light  suitings  for  cheap  blacks  fast 
to  wearing  and  in  combination  with  Patent 
Blue,  Soluble  Blue,  Acid  Violet  etc.  for 
bright  darkblue  (so-called  brilliant  blues)  on 
goods  with  „effecl"  threads.  In  addition 
to  the  specified  brands  Carbon  lUack  B 
cone,  E,  and  especially  (^arbon  Black  G  A 
for    vigoureux    printing,    are    largely    used. 


Acid  Colours. 


C 

Affinity  for 

o 

01   C 
£-3 

o 

in  i 

<u  M 

2^ 

rl 

O   M 
■"   C 

l-e 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

o 

*"   60 
m  C 

V  -~ 
E  a 

1^ 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

1  Silk 

Change 

;  Bleeding 

Change 

:  Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda 

;  Quick 

:    I-ime 

4—5 

3-2 

4 

2 

3 

4 

2 

5 

2 

3 

3 

2-3 

\     3 

3-2 

2-3 

1-2 

1-2 

4-5 

3-2 

4 

2 

3 

4 

2 

5 

2 

3-1 

3-4 

2-3 

;      3 

3 

3-4 

1-2 

1-2 

4 

4 

4 

2 

3 

4 

2 

4 

2 

3-4 

3 

2-3 

3 

3-2 

2-3 

1-2 

1-2 

5 

1 

2—3 

1 

2-3 

1-2 

2 

2 

1 

3 

3-4 

2-3 

3 

3 

3—4 

2-1 

1-2 

5 

1 

2-3 

1 

2-3 

1-2 

2 

2 

1 

3 

3—4 

2-3 

3 

3 

3-4 

1-2 

1-2  ' 

5 

1 

2 

1 

2-3 

2 

2 

2 

1 

3-4 

3-4 

3 

3—4 

3 

3-4 

1-2 

1-2 

1     ' 

1      : 

2-3 

1-2 

2-3 

2 

2 

2 

1 

3-4 

3—4 

3 

3-4 

3 

3-4 

1 

1-2 

52 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestuffs  used  in  ^"ool  Dyeing. 


Method  of  Dyeing  I 


Application 


With  10-20 "o  Glauber's 
salt  and  10%  acetate  of 
ammonia;  the  j;ooils  are 
entered  at  80— lOO'K,  the 
bath  heated  slowly  to  the 
boil,  and  gradually  exhausted, 
with  2 — 4°  I)  acetic  .icid,  or 
with  2 "  ,1  acetic  acid,  and 
tlien  with  2",i  sulphuric .icid. 
As  bottom  for  logwood  or 
used  in  one  bath  with  log- 
wooil  extract  oxalic  acid, 
copper-and  iron- vitriol. 


With  10%  Glauber's  s.ilt 
and  5°'o  acetic  acid  at  the 
boil,  if  ncccssar)',  with  the 
addition  of  1  —  2  "  n  sulphu- 
ric acid;  for  darker  shades 
with  1 0  "  0  Glauber's  salt  and 
3  %  sulphuric  acid. 


Yield  cheap  ilark  shades  of  niedium  f.astncss 
to  light  and  alk.ilics  and  satisfactory  f.istness 

to  milling  and  cover  cotton  burls  well. 
<  )n  /t'osf  -cool  alone  or  in  a>mbination  w  itli 
logwood  for  under-wefts  and  interior  warps 
in  single  coloured  goods  which  need  nut 
possess  any  particular  fastness.  On  knitting 
yams,  also  on  carded  and  woi-stcd  yams  for 
light  and  mcdiuni  milling.  Much  used  on 
cheap  suitings,  alone  or  together  with  log- 
wood, for  darkening  chrome  developing 
shades :   on    shoddy    ])iece    goods ;    on    -.cool 

and  silk  goods  for  self  shades. 
In  addition  to  the  specified  brands  Fast  Blue 
3  R  extra,  D,  G  extra,  5  B,  greenish,  extra 
greenish,  and  Nigrosinc  No.  IV  may  be  named. 


For  greys  which  are  fairly  fast  to  light  and 
washing,  and  verj-  fast  to  milling:  therefore 
used  as  foundation  for  fast  combination  and 
fancy  shades,  alone  or  together  with  faster 
acid  dyt'Stuffs  on  loose  wool,  worsted  and 
carded  yarns  and  piece  goods  for  carded 
and  cheaper  worsted  materials.  Compare  also 
page  9iJ. 


Acid  Colours. 


53 


C 

"a 

a 

W 

Affinity  for 

o 
fa 

o 

fa 

2m 

C  rt 

O   M 

■"  n 

S'c 

faU 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

§ 

fa 

o 

m  C 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change  iBleeding 

Soda 

Quick 
Lime 

4 

4 

4 

3-4 

4 

1-2 

1 

2 

2 

3 

3 

4-3 

3 

3 

3 

4 

3-4 

4 

4 

4 

3-4 

4 

1-2 

1 

2 

2-1 

3 

3 

4 

3 

3 

3 

4 

3-4 

4 

4 

4 

3-4 

4 

2-1 

1 

2 

2-1 

3 

3 

4 

3 

3 

3 

4 

3-4 

4 

3-4 

4 

2-3 

8-4 

2-1 

1 

2-1 

2-1 

3 

3-4 

3 

3 

2-3 

2-3 

2-3 

2-3 

4 

4 

4 

3-4 

4-3 

1—2 

1 

2 

2—1 

3-4 

3-4 

4 

4-3 

3 

3 

4 

3-4 

4 

4 

4-3 

3-4 

4—3 

2-3 

2 

2 

2—1 

3—4 

4 

4 

3 

3 

3 

4 

3-4 

4 

4 

4-3 

2—3 

2—3 

2 

2 

2 

1 

2-3 

3 

2 

2 

2 

2 

1-2 

1 

54 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dycstufts  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Milling  Blue  2R  extra 


Fast  Acid  Blue  R 


Alizarine  Direct  Blue  B  pat. 


Alizarine  Direct  Green  G  pat. 


With    10  "o    Glauber's    s.Mt 

and    4''o    sulphuric    acid,  at 

the  boil. 


With    10%    filaiiber's    salt 

and   i^'o   sulphuric  acid,  at 

the  boil. 


With  10%  Glauber's  salt 
and  3%  sulphuric  .icid;  I  he 
goods  arc  entered  al  120 — 
140°  K,  the  bath  heated  to 
the  boil,  kept  boilinj;  for  1 
hour.  For  lighter  shades  and 
ujjon  sensitive  goods  dyed  in- 
itially with  3%.icctic  .acid; 
sulphuric  acid  is  added  if 
necessary. 


With  10—20",,  GLauber's 
salt  and  2  —  4%  acetic  acid, 
the  goods  are  entered  at 
120-140"  !•',  the  bath  hea- 
ted to  the  boil,  and  exhau- 
sted with  acetic  or  sulphu- 
ric acid.  When  greater  fast- 
ness to  milling  is  required, 
the  goods  '  are  aftertrcated 
with  1  —  2  '/»"ii  bichtonie. 
Also  suitable  for  dyeing  on 
a  chrome  mordant  with  the 
addition  of  Acetic  Acid. 


High  cl.iss  Acid  dyesluffs  of  great  fastness 
to  light,  alkalies  and  milling,  and  suable  to 
chrome:  Employed  on  /oose  wool  in  light 
shades  as  an  excellent  equalising  red  and  usi'd 
as  auxiliary  and  shading-off  dyestuffs  in  com- 
bination with  mordant  and  developing  dye- 
stuffs;  .as  fast  tojiping  or  bottoming  colours 
for  indigo;  for  dyeing  shoddy.  On  slubbing 
for  shades  f.ast  to  water  and  milling,  alone 
or  for  shading-off  mordant  and  developing 
colours ;  for  the  same  purposes  also  in  yarn 
dyeing.  In  piece  and  hal  dyeing  .as  fast, 
well  equalising  reds  for  all  kinds  of  fancy 
shades  and  darli  mixed  shades  in  combination 
with  acid,  developing  and  mordant  colours. 
Suitable  for  self  shades  on  wool  and  silk 
materials.  Fast  .Lid  I'io/et  R L,  RO  and 
A  2 R  O  ser\e  the  same  purposes. 


SuiUable  for  the  production  of  bright  blues 
fast  to  light,  milling  and  alkalies  on  loose 
-i'oo/,  shoddy,  slubbing  and  yarn,  for  the 
manufacture  of  blankets  and  flannels ;  on 
ladies'  better  class  dress  goods.  Liirgely  used 
also  for  shading-off  mordant  and  developing 
colours  on  all  kinds  of  materials ;  for  navy 
blue  upon  wool  and  silk  goods. 


Very  fast  to  light,  alkalies  and  milling;  on 
/oose  7cool  for  white,  pearl  and  lighlblue 
shades  fast  to  milling.  On  slubbing  alone 
or  in  combination  with  other  fast  colour's 
for  light  shades  which  have  to  stand  milling, 
water  and  liglit;  for  the  same  puiposes  on 
woi-sted  and  carded  yams.  As  auxiliary  and 
sh.ading-off  dyestuff  in  combination  with 
mordant  coloure.  Rarely  used  for  piece  goods. 


I'';ist  to  alkalies,  water  .and  milling,  and 
es|iecially  to  light.  On  account  of  their  high 
degree  of  fastness  largely  used  in  all  branches 
of  wool  dyeing;  suitable,  for  loose  material, 
slubbing,  yarn  and  piece  goods  in  all  cases 
where  fastness  to  wearing  and  great  fastness 
to  light  is  essential.  Used  alone  or  in  com- 
bination with  acid,  developing  or  mordant 
colours. 


Acid  Colours. 


"a 

D 

W 

Affinity  for 

o 
1^ 

o 

IS 

in  S 

o  so 

■"  .s 

Fastness  to 
Sieving 

o 

c2 

o 
in  c 

1^ 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

tf)  '-' 

Ic3 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda 

:'^ 

2 

3-4 

4 

3 

2-3 

2 

1   -2 

1-2 

2 

3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2 

2 

2 

1-2 

2 

3-4 

4 

3 

2-3 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

2 

3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2 

2 

2 

1-2 

2 

3-4 

4 

3 

2-3 

2-3 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2 

2 

2-3 

2-  1 
2-1 

2-3 

3 

4 

3-2 

3-4 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

1-2 

3 

3 

2-3 

3-2 

2-3 

3—2 

2 

4 

3 

4 

3-2 

3-2 

2 

1-2 

1 

1 

2—3 

3 

2 

2-3 

2 

2 

2 

1-2 

4-3 

2 

3 

1-2 

1-2 

8 

1 

1 

1 

3—2 

3-4 

2-3 

2-3 

2-3 

2-3 

2 

2-3 

4 

1-2  1 

2-3 

2 

2-1 

2 

1 

1 

1 

2 

3 

1-2 

2-3 

1—2 

2-3 

1-2 

1-2 

Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestufts  used  in   ^"ool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Fast  Acid  Eosine  G  pat. 


With    10%    Gbiibcr's    s.ill 

and    4''u    sulpliiiric   .icid,  .it 

the  l>..il. 


As  excellently  equ.ilising  dycstuff  used  for 
the  production  of  pink  .ind  s;ilnion  s)i,ides  on 
zcphir  and  fancy  yams  and  pinf  goods. 
lispc-cially  also  for  fluorescent  shades  A  more 
concentrated  brand  is. 
Fast  .'Iciii  Eosine  G  extra. 


3% 


Fast  Acid  Phloxine  A  pat. 


With    10%    Glauber's    salt 

and   4  %    sulphuric  acid,  at 

the  boil. 


For  the  production  of  pink  shades  f.ast  to  light 

and    sieving    on    zephyr    and    fancy     yarn 

and  on  piece  goods,    /-'ast  At  id  Phloxine  A 

extra  is  a  more  concentrated  brand. 


Fast  Acid  Magenta  G  pat. 


With    10%    Glauber's    salt 

and   4%    sulphuric   acid,  at 

the  boil. 


Kqualises  well  and  is  fiist  to  light.  Suit- 
able for  slubbing,  yarn  and  piece  goods 
for  bright  pink  and  red  shades,  instead  of 
the  bluer  Resorcine  dyestuffs  which  do  not 
equalise    so   well;     for    shading    other    acid 

dyestuffs. 

A   more   concentrated    brand   is   Fast  Acid 

Maoenta  G  cone. 


Acid  Rosamine  A 


With     10-20",,    libuhor's 

salt  and  4"i,  sulphuric  acid, 

at  the  boil. 


Fast  Acid  Red  A 


With  10"/o  Glauber's  salt  and 

4''/o    sulphuric   .acid,  at    the 

boil. 


I'sed  for  red  shades  fast  to  light,  alkalies 
and  milling.  Suitable  for  loose  wool,  slubbing 
and  yarn  for  bright  pinks  and  reds,  alone 
or  in  combination  with  chrome  developing 
and  mordant  dyestuffs.  Less  frequently  em- 
ployed  in  piece  dyeing. 


On  account  of  its  fastness  to  light,   alkalies 
and    millini;    used    in    all    branches   of  wool 

dyeing. 


0.5«/. 


1.5«/. 


Fast  Acid  Violet  RGE  pat. 


Fast  Acid  Violet  BE  pat.      -k 


With  10°/oGlaul>er'ssalt,ind 

4''/o  suljihuric   acid,    at  the 

boil. 


Not  quite  so  fast  to  milling,  but  faster  to 
ironing  than  the  Fast  Acid  Violets  described 
on  the  jircvious  page.  Therefore  used  as  fast 
red  ingredients  in  piece  dyeing,  viz.  in 
combination  with  .acid,  chrome  developing 
and  mordant  colours;  also  on  yarn  and 
s  I  u  1)  ,1)  i  n  g  ;  for  shades  on  knitting 
and  hosiery  yarns.  More  rarely  used  on 
loose    material    and    shoddy.     Suit;>blc    for 

self  shades  on  wool  and  silk  fabrics. 

Fast   Acid   N'iolet    R  B  E    ranges   in  shade 

between  these  two  brands. 


Acid  Colours. 


57 


be 
c 

Affinity  for 

o 

C  XI 
fa 

o 

2bc 

£  E 

c  a 

O    60 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

2^' 

m.S 

s  s 

fa 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
,   Alkalies 

Cotton; 

Silk 

Change ; 

Bleed-   i 
ing 

1^ 
fa 

r-t, •  Bleed- 

Change^      ing 

Change ! 

Bleed- 
ing 

Soda    .     !,„,„ 

1 

1 

4-3 

2 

3 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

1 

3-4 

4-3 

3-4    :         3 

3-2 

3 

3           4 

1 

1 

4 

2 

3 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

1 

3-4 

4-3 

3         :           3 

2-3 

3-2 

3      ;     4 

I      1 

2 

4 

2 

2-3 

2 

2 

1-2 

1 

3-4 

4—3 

2     :     3 

2 

2-3 

1-2  \      1 

4-3 

3 

4 

3-4 

2-3 

2-3 

2 

1-2 

1—2 

3-2 

3 

2-3  i      3 

2-3 

2-3 

2      i  1-2 

2 

3-4 

4 

3 

3-2 

2—1 

2—1 

1-2 

1-2 

3 

3 

3-4  :  3-4 

3 

3 

2     ;      3 

2 

3-4 

4 

3 

2-3 

2 

1 

1 

\  1-2 

3 

3 

3-2  \      3 

2 

2 

2—3     2—1  ! 

2 

i 

3-4 

!      4 

3 

2-3 

2-3 

1 

1-2 

i  1—2 

3 

3 

4           3 

3 

i      2 

3-4  :     3 

4a  le 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestuffs  used  in  \V  ool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Rosazeine  O 


With  5 — lO'/o  acetic  acid,  or 

in  an  ordinary  acid  l>atli  with 

10°/o  OlaulK-r's  salt  and  4  •jo 

sulphuric  aci<l,  at  tlic  l>c>il. 


Basic  dyostuff,  which  is  dyed  in  an  acid 
batli  on  account  of  its  solubility.  I'sed  largely 
on  shibbing  and  yarns  for  bright  pinks, 
also  on  />;/•<-<■  giwJs,  fine  flannels,  jaconneLs 
etc.  Also  for  shading  and  brightening  red 
acid,  mordant  and  developing  colours.  A'osa- 
teinf  /■"  and  G  are  used  for  the  same  pur- 
poses.    Compare  also  page  78. 


Acid  Magenta  G 


Acid  Magenta  O 


Acid  Magenta  B 


Acid  Violet  4RS 


1.5  % 


Acid  Violet  3RA 


Acid  Maroon  O        Q 


With  10%  Glauber's  salt  and 

3 — 4°;o  sulphuric  acid,  at  the 

boil. 


Inexpensive  red  dyestuffs  of  satisfactory 
equalising  properties.  Used  largely  on  yarns 
and  piece  goods,  where  no  great  demands 
are  made  as  to  fastness  to  light  and  alkalies, 
mostly  employed  in  combination  shades  for 
red,  claret,  brown,  blue  and  navy  blues.  For 
similar  i)urj)oscs  are  used;  Acid  Magenta 
extra,  extra  B,  Af,  jX,  D,  G,  GG,  3G, 
Acid  Cerise  O,  II,  Maroon  S,  Orseitline  H, 
I>\  Acid  Violet  3  K  S,  II,  R  cone,  nnt: 
Acid  Magenta  is  easily  discharged  with 
hydrosuljjhite. 


Acid  Colours. 


59 


bo 

Affinity  for 

o 

C  J3 

o 
fa 

o 

■"  bo 
in  c 

C    M 
fa 

"I 

«  s 

faU 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

in   ^ 

in  ■" 
fa 

o 

■"  bo 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to  \ 
Alkalies 

Zotton 

Silk 

Change  '. 

Bleed- 
ing 

Change  i 

Bleed- 
ing 

Change 

Bleed- 
ing 

Soda     i 

Quick 
lime 

1 

4 

5 

3 

3-4 

1-2 

o 

1 

2 

4 

3-4 

2 

4 

2 

3 

1-2 

1-2 

2-3 

1 

1-2 

1 

4-5 

3 

2 

3 

1 

3 

5 

5 

2 

5 

:    2 

5 

5 

2-3 

1 

2 

1 

4-5 

3 

2 

3 

1 

8 

5 

5 

2 

5 

;    2 

5 

5 

2—3 

1 

;  1-2 

1 

4-5 

3 

2 

3 

1 

3 

5 

5 

2 

5 

!     2 

5 

5 

2-3 

1 

:  1—2 

1 

4-5 

3 

2 

3 

1 

3 

5 

5 

;   2 

5 

;    2 

5 

5 

2-3 

1 

:    2—3 

2 

4 

3—2 

2 

3 

:     1 

3 

4-5 

4-5 

2 

4 

i      2 

4 

;  4-5 

1 

1 

\     2 

1—2 

4 

4 

3-2 

3 

;     1 

3 

5 

5 

;    2 

5 

:       2 

5 

;    ^ 

60 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestufts  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Method  of  Dyeing 


With  lO'/o  Glauber's  sail  and 

'>''lo    acetic  acid   or  4°/o  *>''■ 

pliuric  acid,  at  the  boil. 


With  10  "/o  Glauber's  salt  and 
4%  sulpluiric  acid,  at  the  boil. 


WiUi  10%  Glauber's  salt  and 
4''/o  sulphuric  acid,  at  the 
boil;  In  order  to  enh.-ince  fast- 
ness to  milling  dye  with 
chrome  alum,  or  aftcrtreat 
with  chronic  alum,  fluoride  of 
chrome  or  bichromc. 


The  colour  must  be  carefully 
dissolved;     dye     with     IC/o 
Glauber's    salt    and   A'jo   sul- 
phuric acid,   at  the  boil. 


With  IC/o  (ilauber's  salt  .and 
4%  sul]ihuric  acid,  at  the  boil. 


Application 


Brinhi  ba>ic  dycstuff,  easily  soluble  in  an 
.icid  bath';  and  applicable  in  combination 
with  acid  dyestuffs.  Suitable  on  /oose  -I'ool, 
s  tubbing  and  I'ff/n  for  bright  sh.ides  which 
have  to  sliind  light  milling,  also  on  fanc)' 
yarns  .ind  piece  goods  for  bright  shades  fast 
to  stoving;  other  brands  are.-  Victoria  Blue 
R  and  4  Ji.     Compare  also  ]Kige  80. 


Soluble  well  equalising  violet  of  satisfactory 
f.istncss  to  water  and  good  evening  shade. 
Alone  or  mixed  with  other  dyestuffs  for 
topping  blacks  on  stubbing,  yarn  and  piece 
goods,  to  stand  milling  with  cold  water 
and  light  milling  with  so,ip.  For  piece 
dyeing  brand  C  B I^  is  largely  used,  on 
■iccount  of  its  equalising  properties,  its  fast- 
ness to  alkalies  and  its  good  solubility. 


An  important  auxiliary'  dycstuff  in  fast  wool 
dyeing  on  account  of  its  fastness  to  milling 
on  loose  'cool,  stubbing,  yarns  and  piree 
goods.    Also  largely  used  for  shoddy  material. 


Good  strong  colour  of  very  satisfactory  equalis- 
ing properties.    Used  on  stubbing  yam,  and 
light    piece    goods.   \Vpt  to  ])roduce   stains 
in  old  batlis. 


Bluer  than  Acid  Violet  N ;  of  simitar  fast- 
ness but  more  readily  soluble.  Used  on 
yarn -aniX  piece  goods,  .ilone  or  in  com- 
bination with  other  colours  for  cheap  navy 
blues,   suitable  also  for  dyeing  shoddy. 


Neutral  Violet  O 


With  IQO/o  Gt.aubcr's  salt  and 
2%  sulphuric  acid,  or  2)  with- 
out any  addition,  3)  also  with 
the  addition  of  soap,  borax, 
Glauber's  salt  or  common  salt. 


Simitar    to    the    other  Acid  Violets,    fast  to 

rul)bing   and   alkalies,  it  stands  washing  and 

milling  and  is    especially  suitable  for  dyeing 

rags  and  shoddy  goods. 


Acid  Colours. 


1 

W 

Affinity  for 

o 

o 

o 

c  a 
to  S 

O  bO 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

Si  "J 

P 

2  m 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

Change 

Bleed- 
ing 

Change 

Bleed- 
ing 

Change 

Bleed- 
ing 

Soda 

Quick 
lime 

2 

4 

5 

4-5 

5-4 

2 

1-2 

1 

3-2 

4 

3 

4 

2 

3-2 

2-3 

3-2 

4 
3 

3-4 

2-3 

I 

2 

4 

1—2 

4-3 

2 

1-2 

2 

2 

3 

3-4 

3-4 

3-4 

3 

2-2 

3 

4-3 

4 

8-4 

4 

1-2 

1 

1 

2 

3 

8 

2-3 

3-2 

2-3 

2  -3 

3-2 

2-3 

1-2 

4-3 

4 

4 

4 

2-1 

1 

1 

3 

4 

3 

3 

3 

3 

4 

3-2 

2-3 

3 

3 

4 

3 

4-3 

2 

1-2 

1 

1-2 

3 

3 

3 

3-4 

3 

3 

3 

3 
2-3 

3 

3-4 

4 

3 

4 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

1—2 

3 

3 

3-2 

3 

3-2 

3-2 

3-2 

2-3 

4 

4 

4 

4 

1—2 

1 

1-2 

3-2 

4-3 

3 

2-3 

3-4 

2-3 

3 

2-3 

2-3 

Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestuffs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Pure  Blue  O 


Opal  Blue  superior 


1.5  •/. 


Navy  Blue  V 


Opal  Blue,  blue  shade 


1.5  •/. 


Soluble  Blue  S  V 


Soluble  Blue  R 


AVith  10  "/o  Glauber's  salt  and 
2''lo  sulphuric  acid,  also  willi 
an  .addition  of  5°/o  .almn ; 
The  goods  are  entered  at 
100-120"  F,  the  iMlh  is 
brouglit  to  the  boil,  and  kept 
boilingfor  1  hour.  Added  some- 
times to  alum  and  chrome  mor- 
daiuinj;  bath  for  logwood  sha- 
des, or  dyed  in  one  bath  with 
logwood  oxalic  acid,  irt)n-and 
copper  sulphate.  Also  used  for 
to]>ping  and  shading  logwood 
colours. 


The  value  of  these  dyestuffs  lies,  apart  from 
their  good  fastness  to  light  and  water,  in 
the  great  purity  of  shade  and  their  tinctor- 
ial strength.  Used  occasionally  on  loose  wool 
in  combination  w^ith  logwood  more  largely  on 
sho<ldy  and  on  yarns  together  with  logwood. 
In  piece  liyeiiig  on  heavy  suitings  for  inferior 
blues  for  pastel  shades.  For  the  same  pur- 
poses serve:  Piire  Htiie  cone,  double  cone. 
Purple  Blue  O,  Cloth  Blue  O,  Full  Blue  O, 
Opal  Blue,  red  shade,  g-reen  shade.  Blue 
red  shade,  blue  shade,  TB,  TB.l,  Bleu  dc 
I.  von  R,  RR,  China  Blue  R,  No.  i.  No.  2 
Soluble  Blue  TB.l,  TBB,  RR,  RRR, 
Guernsey  Blue  O,  Cone.  Cotton  Blue  RR, 
R,  Xo.  1.  No.  2,  Cotton  Blue  00,  extra. 
Cotton  Light  Blue  O  soluble  and  Methyl 
Blue  for  Cotton  MLB.  Opal  Blue  blue  shade. 
Soluble  Blue  V,  2  R,  Blue  blue  shade  arc 
dischargeable  with  hydrosulphite. 


Acid  Colours. 


03 


be 

c 

"a 

3 

Affinity  for 

o 

m  C 

o 

C  a! 

o  bO 

si 
f2c3 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

(2 

o 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda 

Quick 
lime 

4—5 

3-4 

4 

3 

3 

3-4 

2 

3 

2 

3 

4-5 

5 

2 

4-5 

2 

5 

5 

4 

4 

4 

5 

3 

3-4 

2 

3 

2 

3 

4-5 

4-5 

2 

4 

2 

5—4 

5-4 

1 
4 

4 

4 

4 

3 

3 

2 

8 

2 

3 

4-5 

4-5 

2 

4 

2 

5-4 

5-4 

4 

4 

4 

5 

3 

3 

2 

3 

2 

3 

4-5 

4—5 

2 

4 

:     2 

5-4 

5-4  1 

4 
4 

4 

4 

5 

3 

3 

2 

3 

2 

3 

4—5 

4-5 

2 

4 

i  2 

5-4 

5-4 

4 

4 

4-5 

3-4 

3 

2 

3 

2 

3 

4-5 

4-5 

2 

4 

;    2 

5-4 

5-4 

4 

4 

4 

5 

3 

3 

2 

3 

2 

3 

4—5 

4—5 

2 

4 

:       2 

5-4 

5-4 

Tabulated  Survey  of  the  DvestufFs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 

Method  of  Dyeing 

Application 

Methyl  Alkaline  Blue  MLB 

Dyed  initi.illy  will)  4— IC/u 
borax,    or    less    cfficaciousiy 
with  soda  or  silicalc  of  Soda ; 
then    soured    off   in   a    new- 
bath,  at  140— 170°  F,  with 
5%  sulphuric  .ncid;  or  with 
alum    or    perchloride    of   tin 
where   fastness  to  milling  is 
required. 

1 

Employed    on   account    of     their    equalising 
I)ropcrties,  their  fastness  to  light  and  purity 
of  shaile  on   rarii-,  slubbing  and  piWe  ^fods 
especially    for     light    worsted     coatings    and    ; 
woollens    for   bright   self    shades,     less    fre-    1 
qucntly   as    bottom    for  combination  shades. 
Also  used  for  dyeing  wool  and  silk  fabrics. 

^^^^^^^^^^^1    '  ^^^^^^^^^^^B 

0.5  •;,                             1.5  •;. 

Alkaline  Blue  GB 

1^^^™!,*™"^ 

0.5  •;.                             1.5  •;. 

Alkaline  Blue  4  B 

0.5  •;.                              1.5  •;. 

Alkaline  Blue  2  B 

0.5  "•.',                                               l.^'l. 

Alkaline  Blue  R 

i^^^^H,  i^^^^B 

0.5  •/.                        1.5  r. 

AlkaUne  Blue  R  R 

^^^^^^^^^^^*       ^^^^^^^^^^^B 

U.& ';.                                   1.5  •;. 

Alkaline  Violet  O 

^^^^^^^^^^^B       ^^^^^^^^HBM 

0.-5                                        2.5*/. 

Acid  Colours. 


65 


1  « 

3 

cr 
W 

Affinity  for 

o 

1  2 

1  ^-^ 

o 

o  so 
faU 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

fa 

o 
m  c 

5  « 
fa 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cottor 

;   Silk 

1=        |j 

fa.      fa 

C    CO 

on   " 
«(^ 
fa 

Change    Bleeding 

Change   Bleeding 

Change ;  Bleeding 

Soda 

i    Quick 

1 

4 

:         4 

3 

3 

3—2 

1 

2—3  ;  2-3 

3 

4 

4      !      2 

4 

:         2 

4-5 

:  4-5 

1 

4 

■      4 

3 

3 

3—2 

1 

2-3  ;  2-3 

3 

4 

4          ;          2 

4 

;      2 

4 

4 

1 

4 

4 

3 

3 

3—2 

1 

2-3  i  2-3 

3 

4 

4      i      2 

4 

2 

4 

4 

1 

4 

4 

3 

3 

3-2 

1 

2-3 \  2-3 

3 

4 

4      ;      2 

4 

2 

4 

4 

1 

4 

4 

3 

3 

3-2 

1 

2—3  :  2—3 

3 

4 

4     1      2 

4      : 

2 

4-5  : 

4—5 

1 

4     I 

4 

3 

3 

3-2 

1 

2—3  ;      2 

3 

4 

4    ;    2 

4         : 

2 

4-5 

4-5 

1 

2 

4    ; 

4 

3 

3 

3-2 

1 

2-3    :         2 

3 

4 

4     :     2 

4 

2 

5—4 

4-.-. 

66 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestuffs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Patent  Blue  L 


Patent  Blue  V 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


With     lO'/o    Glauber's    salt 

and    4°'o  sulphuric   acid,   at 

the  boil. 


Kxtensivcly  used  on  account  of  llieir  f.i>t- 
nos  to  alk.ili  and  their  equalizing  |)ri>|>criies. 
( >.  i.isi'  'ii.illv  used  nn  loose  uool:  largely  used  for 
>li:uiiii;;  >lubliing,  in  combination  with  mor- 
dant and  developing  dyestuffs.  As  a  fast 
substitute  for  Indigo  airmine  on  hosiery-, 
knitting-,  fanc>'-,  cari)et-  and  weaving  yarns. 
Chiefly  used  in  pircr  dyeing  for  ladies'  dress 
goods  and  light  suitings,  billiard  cloths,  for 
pastel  colours,  on  ladies  hats;  princi|)ally 
as  a  fast  ingredient  for  navy  blues,  green, 
olive,  brown  and  fancy  sliadcs;  for  shading 
chrome  developing  dyestuffs.  In  a  similar 
manner  are  employed:  Patent  Blue  L  E,  X, 
iiiperwr.    Patent  Jiliie  I',  X,  EN,  C,  E,  t'S. 


Patent  Blue  J  3 


With    10%    Glauber's    salt 

and    4°'a  sulphuric  .icid,    at 

the  boil. 


Similar  as  regards  fastness  to  Patent  Blue  \', 
it  is  very  extensively  used,  on  account 
of  its  covering  shade,  as  the  best  substitute 
for  the  fugitive  and  dearer  Indigo  carmine, 
for    ctmibination   and   fancy  shades  on  /leee 

goods  and  yarn. 

For  the  same  |)ur]Joses  ser»e:    Patent  Blue 

J  1,  J  2,  J  3  A,  JO  and  JOG. 


Cyanine  1j 


With    10%    Glauber's    salt 

and    4  ",o    sulphuric   acid    at 

the  boil. 


Suitable  for  the  same  purposes  as  the  preced- 
ing colours;  it  is  used  for  mixed  and 
fancy  shades,  on  account  of  its  equalising 
property  and  its  good  evening  shade,  in  piea- 
dyeing  also  in  rarn  dyeing,  upon  weaving, 
knitting,  and  zephir  yams.  Dischargeable 
with  hydrosulphile. 


With    10%    Gbuber's    salt 
and    4%    sulphuric   acid,  at  I 
the  boil.  I 


Satisf.ictorily  fast  to  alkalies,  these  colours 
equalise  well  and  are  very  f.ist  to  light. 
Usctl  therefore,  in  acid  wool  dyeing  wherever 
a  high  degree  of  fastness  to  light  is  essential ; 
in  yarn  dyeing  for  embroider)--  and  fanc)- 
yarns,  especially  for  Girj)et  yams;  in  piere 
dyeing  chiefly  for  fancy  shades  fast  to  light, 
alkalies  and  perspiration,  es|)ecially  for  ladies 
dress  gi>ods  and  men's  suitings,  in  com- 
bination with  Amidonaphtol  Red  or  Chronw- 
Irope  2/i,  6  B,  f<ir  redtlening,  and  Flava- 
zine  L  or  3  GL  for  yellowing  the  shade. 


With    10%    Glauber's    salt 

and   4%   sulphuric  acid,   at 

the  boil. 


Like  the  preceding  colours ,  distinguished  for 
its  great  fastness  to  light,  its  fastness  to 
alkalies  and  its  equalising  properties.  Used 
for  all  mixed  and  fancy  red  .ind  violet  shades 
fast  to  light  on  t<7r»«  and  piece  goods. 
Also  in  vignureux  jirinling  in  combination 
with  chrome  for  bluegrecn  lakes. 


Acid  Colours. 


67 


bo 

C 

"a 

1       T 

w 

Affinity  for 

o 

o 

o 

m.S 
oj  E 
c  a 

O   M 

£| 
feu 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

u 

fe 

o 

lu-H 
S  « 

1^ 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Eleeding 

Change . 



Bleeding 

500=^    Is 

1 

1-2 

4 

2 

8 

1—2 

2 

1 

2 

4 

3 

■A 

3—4 

3 

3-4 

2-2 

1 

1 

1-2 

4 

2 

3 

1-2 

2 

1 

2 

4 

8 

8 

3-4 

3 

3—4 

2     ;     2 

1—2 

2-3 

4 

2 

3-4 

1—2 

2 

1-2 

2 

4 

3 

3 

3—4 

3 

3—4 

2       ;       2 

1 

1 

3 

2-1 

3 

1-2 

2 

1 

2 

4 

3 

3-4 

3 

3 

3 

2-1         2 

1-2 

1 

3 

2-1 

2 

2—1 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

3-4 

3-4 

3 

i  3-4 

3 

3 

2      1  2-3 

2 

2 

3 

2—1 

1-2 

2 

2 

2 

1 

3 

3-4 

3 

4 

2-3 

3 

2    ;    3 

3 

1 

4—3 

1—2 

2-1 

2—1 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

3 

3—4 

3 

i      4 

2—3 

3 

2-3  ;     3 

G8 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dycstufts  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Patent  Blue  A 


Indigo  Substitute  WE 


0.75 '/c 


2.5  •;. 


With  10%  GLiubcr's  salt 
and  4''o  sulphuric  acid,  at 
the  boil ;  in  order  to  enhance 
the  f.Tstness  to  milling  .in 
addition  is  niiide  to  the 
dyebath  of  1(»  %  chrome 
alum  or  the  sli;ide  is  after- 
treated  with  chrome  alum 
fluoride  of  chrome  or  bi- 
chronie. 


With    10 "/o    Ghiuber's    salt 

and   4°/o    sulphuric   acid    at 

the  boil. 


Indigo  Substitute  BS  extra 


Indigo  Substitute  V  extra 


Patent  Blue  B 


Patent  Blue  y 


Patent  Blue  RBN 


With  10%  Glauber's  salt 
and  4%  sulphuric  acid,  at 
the  boil. 


With    lO'/o    Glauber's    salt 

and    4°/o   sulphuric   acid    at 

the  boil. 


With    10°/o    Glauber's    salt 

and    4°/o  sulphuric    acid    at 

the  boil. 


Application 


Fast  to  lit;ht,  water  and  milling.  Used  in 
fast  wool  dyein};  on  loose  -.eool,  slubbing, 
shedJy  .mil  yarns  for  bright  blues  fast  to 
milling  and  as  im|iortant  auxiliary  dycstuff 
m  combination  with  chrome  developing  and 
inorcLinl  dyestuffs;  in  pirce  dvring  together 
with  these  for  high  class  goods.  To  be  noted 
are  also:  Patent  Blue  Ah\  AJI,  K,  AN. 


Distinguished  for  fastness  to  water  and  milling ; 
particularly  used  on  slubbing  and  yarn  for 
milling  with  water,  fuller's  earth  and  light 
milling  with  soap;  employed  as  bright  self 
shades  or  in  combination  with  \'icloria  Vio- 
let 4  BS  for  navy  blues, 


Equalise  well  and  are  fast  to  light  and  al- 
kalies. In  combination  with  Acid  Green, 
Napthalinc  Green,  VicloriaViolet,  used  for  dark 
shades,  navy  blues,  green,  olive,  brown  etc., 
on  flit  hats;  on  knitting,  hosiery,  weaving, 
carpil  and  fancy  yarns;  other  brands  are: 
Indigo  Substitute  B,  B  extra,  BS,  SS,  A 
extra,  K. 


I'sed  for  the  same  purposes  as  the  foregoing, 

on   piece    goods    and    yarns;    also    Patent 

JSluc  B  cone. 


Yielding  bright  blues  fast  to  .alkalies  and 
light.  I'sed  on  slubbing,  yarns  and  piece 
i;ooils  for  bright  blue  sh.idcs,  mostly  in  self  col- 
ours, less  fieqently  in  combination  shades;  on 
knitting,  mohair  and  fancy  yarns;  also  on 
slioilily  material.  Patent  Blue  J\B,  a  shade 
lying  between  these  two,  is  used  for  the 
same  purposes. 


Acid  Colours. 


69 


60 

C 

3 

cr 
W 

Affinity  for 

o 
in.S 

o 
lU  bio 

o 

■"  bO 
m  C 

S  E 
c  a 

0   M 

il 

CO  ra 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

o 
■"  bO 

1^ 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton; 

Silk 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change  Bleeding 

Change ■ 

Bleeding 

Soda    i 

Quick 
Lime 

2-3 

3      ; 

4 

3 

3 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

1-2 

3 

3 

2-3 

2-3 

2-3 

2-3 

2 

2-1 

2-3 

3 

4 

3-4 

3-4 

2 

2-1 

2 

3 

3-4 

3—4 

2-3 

3 

3-2 

2-3 

2 
2-3 

2-3 
3-2 

2 

2 

4 

2-3 

3-4 

2 

2 

1—2 

2 

4 

3-4 

3-4 

3-4 

3 

3-4 

1  -2 

1 

2-1 

4 

2-3 

3-4 

1-2 

2 

2 

2 

4 

3 

3 

3-4 

3 

3—4 

2-3 

3 

1—2 

2-3 

4 

3-2 

3-4 

2-1 

2 

1-2 

I      2 

4 

3-4 

3 

3-4 

3 

3-4 

2-3 

2-3 

1-2 

2 

4 

2 

3-4 

2 

2 

1-2 

;    2 

4 

3-4 

3 

1      4 

3 

i  3-4 

3-2 

2 

1-2 

2—1 

i      4 

2 

4-3 

2 

2 

2-1 

;    2 

4 

3 

3 

;     4 

3 

i  3—4 

3 

i  2-3 

i 

Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestuffs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Acid  Green  GI 


Acid  Green  cone. 


Kaphtaline  Green  V  pat. 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


With    20%    Glauber's    s.ill 

and    3%    sulphuric  acid,    at 

the  Ixiil. 


With  20  "/o  Glauber's  mU 
and  4°/o  sulphuric  .icid;  in 
old  iKiths  with  10%  Ghu- 
bcr's  salt  and  3%  sulphuric 
acid,  at   thi'  lioil. 


With    10%    Gliiubcr's    s.iU 

and   4%   sulphuric  acid,   at 

the  boil. 


Brijjht  yellowish  green ,  used  on  fanc>', 
knittin(;  and  zephyr  yams  for  delicate  reseda 
and  se.Tjirecn  shades,  on  piece  goods  for 
similarshadcson  ball-drcss  materials,  shawlsetc. 


Cheapest  green  .-icid  colour,  used  on  i,7>  •• 
and  piece  gooth  in  combination  with  ii! 
acid  colours  for  blue,  green  and  brown  sha.i  -, 
where  no  demands  are  made  ;is  to  f.tstntss 
to  w.ishing,  alkalies  and  light.  Further  brands 
are:  Acid  Green  O,  .1/,  cone.  D,  and  Acid 
Green  solution  5  fold  cone. 
Readily  dischargeable  with  hydrosulphili . 


Considerably  faster  to  alkalies,  storing  an<l 
to  light  and  belter  equalising  than  Acid 
Green :  used  on  slubbing,  yarns  and  piece 
goods,  and  on  hats  in  combination  with  other 
acid  dyestuffs  for  billiard  greens,  navy  blue 
and  brown  shades  ;  for  shading  chrome  develoj)- 

ing  colours.     Also  on  shoddy  goods. 
A'aphllialine  Green  cone,  is  a  stronger  brand. 


Fast  Acid  Green  BB  extra  pat. 


Patent  Green  O 


Patent  Green  V 


Patent  Green  VS 


n 


With     10%    Glauber's    s.-dt 

and    4%    sulphuric  acid,    at 

the  boil. 


Strong  Bluish  green  dyestuff  used  on  varn 
and  piece  goods,  on  account  of  its  satisfactory 
fastness  to  light,  alkalies  and  wearing  for 
the  )iroduclion  of  navy  blue,  green,  brown 
and  fancy  shades.  Also  suitable  for  shading 
chrome  developing  colours.  Other  similar 
brands  are:  Fast  Acid  Green  liB  and  ]>B 
e.riro  cone. 


With  10%  Glaubei^s  salt 
and  4  %  sul]ihuric  aci<l,  at 
the  boil. 


With    10%    GLiuber's    salt 

and    4  %    sulphuric   acid,  at 

the  boil. 


Cheap  greens,  faster  than  Acid  Green  and 
Indigo  Carmine.  Used  lai^ely  on  piece  giH>ds 
for  navy  blue,  green,  olive  and  brown  shades 
in  combination  with  Victoria  Violet  and 
Indigo  substittitc.  Also  for  fancy  shades  in 
aimbination  with  Aito  Acid  Magenta,  Amido- 
naphlhol  Red,  Chromotrope  etc.  and  for 
the  production  of  cheap  colouis  on  knitting- 
and  zephyr  yams. 


A  green  f.ist  to  .ilkalies,  light  .ind  stoving; 
used  for  the  same  purposes  as  Fast  Acid 
Green  BB  extra  on  piece  goods  and  yarn. 
Patent  Blue  VVS  possesses  the  same  pro- 
perties. 


Acid  Colours. 


60 

Affinity  for 

o 

m  c 

o 

Is 

o 

£1 

c2^ 

O   M 

a  a 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

[2 

2« 

1* 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to  ' 
Alkalies 

3 
W 

Cotton 

\  Silk 

Change 

:  Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

iBIeeJing 

Soda 

i    Quick 

3 

2 

;     8 

1-2 

4—5 

4 

2 

3-4 

:    2 

4 

4 

4 

\     3 

4 

1    ^ 

4-5 

:  *-5 

3 

1 

3 

1-2 

4 

4 

1-2 

3-4 

2 

3—2 

4 

4-5 

;    2 

4 

2 

5 

1     5 

1-2 

1—2 

3-4 

2 

3-4 

1—2 

1-2 

2-3 

2 

3—4 

3 

3-2 

3-2 

3-2 

3 

3 

1     3 

—2 

1-2 

4-3 

2 

3 

1—2 

2-1 

2 

2 

4-3 

8 

3 

3 

3 

3-4 

2-3 

:  2-3 

-3 

2 

4-3 

1-2 

3-4 

3 

1-2 

3—2 

2 

4 

4-3 

4-3 

3 

4 

3-4 

3—4 

3-4 

2 

2      . 

4-3 

2 

3-4 

3-2 

1—2 

2-3 

2 

4 

3-4 

3-4  : 

3 

3-4 

3 

3 

2-3 

-2 

2      1 

4-3 

2 

3 

2 

1 

1—2 

2-1  i 

2 

4 

3-4 

1 

3    ; 

3 

3      ^ 

8-4 

1 

1-2 

2 

Tabulated  Survey  of  the  DycstufFs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Eoslne  3  G 


Eosine  extra  AG 


Eosine  extra  soluble 


Erythroslne  extra 


Phloxlne  O 


Phloxine  B 


Rose  Bengale  B 


With  10%  Glauber's  salt 
and  5 — 10  %  acetic  acid ; 
the  goods  arc  entered  at 
100—120"  F,  the  tempera- 
ture raised  verj'  slowly, 
especially  for  the  bluer  braiuls, 
up  to  175°  F  and  kept 
at  this  heat  for  I  hour.  Or 
the  material  is  entered  into 
in  a  lukewarm  bath  ])rcpared 
with  h":o  alum,  5"o  tartar, 
and  5"'o  acetic  acid;  the  bath 
is  heated  to  175°F,  and  kept 
at  this  temperature  for  '/,  —  1 
hour. 


On  account  of  their  brilliant  shades,  great 
fastness  to  stoving  and  washing  used  for  the 
production  of  bright  pink  and  red  shades, 
parliailarly  zfphyr  and  fancy  yarns,  and 
knitting  yarns,  also  on  lighter  classes  of 
piecf  goodi.  Besides  the  specified  brands 
the  following  are  also  largely  employed : 
Eosine  extra  yellow,  extra  cone,  extra  I3H, 
extra  3  li,  extra  5  B,  extra  A  cone,  extra 
2  A,  yellow  shade  .\'o.  I,  yellow  shade  A'o.  3, 
extra  blur  shade,  Erythrosine  A,  AG,  blue 
shade,  vellow  shade,  extra  yellow  X,  Phlo- 
xine 0,  G,  BB,  BA  extra,  3  GA  extra, 
B  extra  cone,  Rose  Bengale  G,  B  cone, 
3  B  cone,  and  A. 


Acid  Colours. 


73 


a 

3 

cr 
W 

Aflfinity  for 

o 
fa 

o 

(3 

2b. 

in  C 

S'S 
=  a 

O   M 
11 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

o 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change  Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda 

1    Quick 
:    Lime 

4 

2 

4-3 

2 

5 

2 

4 

2 

1 

3-4 

3—4 

3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2 

:     2 

4 

1-2 

4-3 

2 

5 

1—2 

3 

1 

1 

3 

3-4 

2-3 

'■      3 

2-8 

3 

1-2 

1 

4 

1 

4 

2 

5 

1-2 

2 

2 

1 

3 

3—4 

2-3 

3 

2—3 

3 

1—2 

1 

4-5 

1 

4 

2 

5 

2-3 

4 

2—3 

1 

3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2-3 

2-3 

1 

1-2 

5-4 

1 

4 

2 

5 

8 

4 

2-3 

1 

3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2-3 

2—3 

1 

1-2 

5—4 

1         : 

4 

2 

5 

3 

4-3 

2-3  1 

1 

3 

3 

2-3 

3 

2-3 

2—3 

1—2 

1-2 

5 

1         i 

4 

2 

5 

3 

4-3 

2-3  1 

1 

3—2 

3 

2 

2-3 

2-3  \ 

2 

1 

1-2 

6a  le 


74 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  DyestufFs  used  in  ^  ool  Dyeing. 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Dyed  in  a  neutral  lialh,  (correc- 
ted with    little   acetic  acid)  at 

175-190°  K. 
Or  in  a  scxip  bath,  at  120° — 
140"  F  with  5";o  "live  oil 
s<xip.  The  giKKls  are  then 
hydriwxlractcd,  and  stoved  in 
the  sulphur  clianibcr.  When 
using  Auraniine  the  tenipeni- 
turc  of  the  dyeliath  nuist  not 

exceed   140°  F. 


Employed  for  the  production  of  delicate  yellow 
and  criani  shades  on  fancy  and  zephyr  yams, 
embroidery  yarns,  also  on  account  of  their 
great  purity  on  ball  dress  materials.  Sui- 
table for  covering  the  silk  in  wool  and  silk 

goods. 
Besides  the  S|>ecified  dyestuffs  the  following 
brands  are  used:  Auraminf  O,  I,  J  I,  Fla-.o- 
phosflihif  4  G  cone,  4  G  O,  G  G  O,  G  com:, 
GO,  Chrysnidmc  G,Ccryst.,  C  extra  cryst., 
A povihr,  C po:cJcr,  Phosphine  O,  Vesuvine 
4  JtG  com:,  3  A'  superior,  5  B  cone,  cone, 
extra  yellcnv. 


Basic  Colours. 


76 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestufts  used  in  >X'ool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Rosazeine  B 


Safranine  O 


Dyed  with  5—10%  acetic 
acid,  or  in  a  neutial  bath 
(corrected  with  acetic  acid), 
or  in  a  soap  bath.  The  dyed 
goods  arc  stovcd  afterwards. 


soap    bath    at    140- 
150°  F. 


On  hosf  vvol  for  dyed  and  stoved  white ; 
on  slubbinu  and  yarns  for  pinks  and  orange 
shades,  c^n  zephyr  and  fanc)'  yarns,  flannels, 
muslins  etc.  for  ]iastel  shades;  for  topping 
trimming  cloths.  Largely  used  in  com- 
bination with  acid  dyestuffs  (compare  page  58). 
CUber  brands  are  Hosazehu  O,  extra,  G,  li 
extra. 


Used  on  zephyr  and  fancy  yams,  cheap  piece 
goods  for  export,  also  for  covering  the  silk 
in  wool  and  silk  goods.  Safranine  con<-., 
AX  I- \ I'll,  CdS  etc.  serve  for  the  s.ime 
pur]>oses. 


New  Magenta  O 


Methyl  Violet  5R  superior 


Methyl  Violet  3R  superior 


In   a  neutral  bath  at   KiO — 

175°  K,  or  with  the  .addition 

of  1— 2''/o  soap. 


In    a    soaj)    bath    at    140- 
160"  F. 


Used  in  self  shades  on  slubbing  for  pink 
knitting  yarn  melanges,  sometimes  also  for 
„effect"  threads,  on  zephyr  and  fancy  yams; 
on  light  woollen  and  -,corsted  goods  for  ex- 
port, -.iool  and  silk  fabrics  for  covering  the 
silk.  Suitable  for  the  same  jiurposes  are 
the  v.arious  brands  of  Magenta  which  are, 
however,  somewhat  less  soluble  than  I\'e-.v 
Magenta  O,  and  Methyl  Violet  4  R,  2  R 
and  R 


On  fancy  and  zephyr  yarns ;  on  piece  goods 

for  delictlc  heliotrope  shades  and  for  dyeing 

white. 


Basic  Colours. 


3 

W 

Affinity  for 

o 
■"  be 

in   "^ 

o 
in  S 

o 
S'e 

0  so 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

0 

il 

0 
3  IS 

t<4 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to  J 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

;  Silk 

1=   '|J 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change  i  Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda 

S? 

1 

4 

5 

3 

3-4 

1-2 

2 

1 

2 

4 

3-4 

2 

4 

2 

•       3 

1-2 

;  1-2 

1 

4 

5 

3 

3-4 

1—2 

2 

1 

2 

4 

3-4 

2 

4 

2 

1     3 

1-2 

2 

2 

4 

-     5 

4 

5 

2 

3 

2 

4 

5 

4—5 

2 

5 

2 

4 

1-2 

1—2 

1 

4 

5 

4 

4-5 

1-2 

3 

2 

5 

5 

4 

3 

5 

3 

4 

3 

3 

1 

4 

5 

4 

4-5 

1—2 

3 

2 

5 

5 

4-3 

3 

5 

3 

4 

3 

3    j 

1 

4 

5 

4 

4-5 

1-2 

2-3 

2 

5 

5 

4-3 

3 

5 

3 

4 

2—3 

3-2 

2 

4 

5 

4 

5 

1-2 

2 

1 

4 

5 

4 

2     i 

4 

2     • 

3-4 

1-2  1 

1-2  ' 

Tabulated  Survey  of  the  DyestufFs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Willi  5  — 10"o  acetic  acid, 
or  in  a  neutral  l)alh  (correct- 
ed with  acetic  acid),  at  the 
lioil;  also  in  a  lukewarm  soap 
bath,  in  which  cisc  the  goods 
are  subsequently  stoved. 


I'sed  on  locsf  wools  slubbing  and  yarn. 
also  piccf  gvods  for  |)roducing  direct  and 
stoved  whites.  On  yarns  and  pine  /roods 
as  cheap  dyestuffs  for  bright  violet  shades, 
for  pastel  shades,  for  topping  navy  blues 
on  piece  goods,  also  for  covering  the  burls. 
Kinally  silk  and  wool  fabrics  in  self  shades 
Besides  the  specified  brands  the  following 
branils  range  in  shade  between  Methyl  I'lo- 
let  BB  and  6 B,  viz:  Methyl  Violet  3B. 
4B,  Sli- 


In  a  neutral  bath  or  with 
acetic  acid,  or  in  a  soap  bath 
for  dyeing  white  like  the 
Methyl  Violets.  They  may 
also  be  dyed  in  an  acid  bath. 


Are  used  like  the  Methyl  Violets  for  while 
dyeing.  Also,  on  account  of  their  good 
fastness  to  washing  on  loose  'wool  and  yarns 
for  the  production  of  shades  which  arc  fast 
to  washing  and  light  milling.  On  fancy 
yams  and  piece  goods  for  bright  blue  shades 
fast  to  bleaching  and  for  pastel  shades.  Can 
also  be  employed  in  an  acid  bath,  and  in 
amibination  with  acid  dyestuffs.  Compan 
page  60-  A  similar  brand  is  I'lclorni 
Blue  R. 


Dyed  in  a  weak  acetic  .acid 
bath;  belter  on  sulphur  mor- 
dant, with  iheadditionof  l.^'Yo 
hyposulphite  of  soda,  .^"/o 
alum  and  3°/o  sulphuric  acid. 


Em|)loyed   on    account    of  its  low    price    on 

Inittins;    and    hosiery  yarns,    alone    or    in 

combination    with    b,isic   violets;    also    used 

for  cheap  export  goods. 


Basic  Colours. 


D 

Affinity  for 

o 

•o 

^2 

o 

■"  bo 
m.B 

S  c 
c  ca 

O   M 

■"  c 
m'in 
S  '5 

13 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

II 

2^ 
in  c 

s  « 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

:   Silk 

Change 

Bleeding 

Cliange 

iBIccding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda 

;    Quick 
;    Lime 

1 

4 

5 

4 

4-5 

2 

1-2 

2 

5 

5 

3 

3 

:     5 

2-3 

4 

2-3 

:     2 

1 

4 

5 

4 

4—5 

1-2 

1-2 

2 

5 

5 

3 

3 

5 

2-3 

4 

2—3 

2 

1 

4 

5 

4 

4—5 

1—2 

1-2 

2 

5 

5 

3—4 

3 

5 

2-3 

4 

2-3 

2 

2 

4 

5 

4 

5 

2—3 

1-2 

1—2 

4 

4 

3-4 

3 

4 

2-3 

3 

4 

3-4 

2 

4 

5 

4 

5 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

4 

4 

3-4 

4 

4 

a 

3 

4 

4 

2 

4 

5 

4 

3 

1 

1-2 

2-3  \ 

5 

5 

4 

4 

4 

4      : 

3 

5 

4-5 

2 

4 

5 

4 

3 

1 

1-2 

2-3     : 

5 

5 

4 

4 

4 

4 

3 

5 

4-5 

Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestuffs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Alizarine  Yellow  .'G 


Mordant  Yellow  O 


Alizarine  Yellow  GGVV  powder 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


With  10  %  Glaulwr's  salt 
and  3 — 4*';o  sulphuric  acid, 
boiled  for  '/» — 'It  hour,  dcvc- 
lopi'd  with  1 — 3°/obichronic. 


Yellow  dyestuffs  which  are  fast  to  light  and 
milling  and  arc  used  in  all  branches  of  fast 
wiKil  dyeing  in  combination  with  other  chrome 
developing  dyestuffs.  Suitable  for  /oose  'u-ool, 
stubbing  and  yams  which  shav  to  sutnd 
milling;  further,  for  knitting,  hosiery  and 
carjwt  yams ;  also  employed  in  piece  goods 
for  green  sliadcs  on  Indigo  ground  and  in 
combination  with  other  chrome  developing 
colours. 
Com|)arc  also  p;ige  98. 


Acid  Alizarine  Yellow  RC 


With  10— 20'';o  Glauber's 
s-tlt  and  5—10%  acetite  of 
ammonia  or  with  S'/o  acetic 
acid;  the  goods  are  entered 
at  14)°  Y.,  boiled  for  '/« 
hour,  then  acetic  acid  is 
added,  .ind  the  colourdevelop- 
cd  with  bidiromc. 


A  yellow  dyestuff  which  does  not  equalize 
so  well  as,  but  is  f.oster  to  milling  and  bleed- 
ing than  the  foregoing  bninds.  Used  in 
all  branches  of  f.ist  wool  dyeing  as  a  yellow 
ingredient  fast  to  milling,  especially  on  loose 
-•root,  slubbing  and  yam  in  combination  with 
other  chrome  developing  colours. 
Compare  also  p.ige  98. 


Alizarine  Yellow  RW  powder 


With  10%  Glauber's  salt 
and  4  %  sulphuric  acid  ;  after 
boiling  for  '/« — ','4  hour  the 
shade  is  de\  eloped  with  bi- 
chromc  or  fluoride  of  chrome. 


Redder  than  Alizarine  Yellow  GGW,   but 

otherwise    |x)ssessing   similar   properties  and 

used    in    tlic   same    manner   for   loose  wool, 

slubbing,  yarn  and  piae  goods. 

Compare  also  p.ige  100. 


With  10—20%  Glauber's 
salt  and  5 — 10%  acetate  of 
ammonia  or  with  3%  acetic 
.icid;  llic  goods  are  entered 
at  140'  !•",  aftci  boiling  for 
'/j  hour,  acetic  or  sulphuric 
acid  is  added,  and  the  shade 
developed  with  fluoride  of 
chrome  or  bichrome. 


Equalises  with  greater  diffimlty  ih.an  Ali- 
zarine Red  1  \V  S ;  may  be  carbonised 
with  siilphuric  acid,  and  is  faster  to  bleeding 
and  alkalies  in  milling.  Kmployed  on  loose 
wool,  tops  and  yarn,  less  frequently  on 
piece  gootis. 
Compare  also  page  30. 


With  10%  Glauber's  salt 
and  4  %  sulphuric  acid,  at 
the  boil;  ihe-sliadeis  develop- 
ed with  fluoride  of  clmime, 
or  preferably  with  bichrome. 


Level  dyeing  colour  very  f.tst  to  light  and 
milling.  Used  .ts  a  f.tst  reddening  ingredient 
in  coml)ination  with  all  other  chrome  develop- 
ing colours  on  loose  wool  and  slubbing, 
also  largely  on  yarn  and  piece  goods  Alizarine 
Red  3WS  and  PS  are  also  employed  in  simi- 
lar manner  (the  latter  is  developed  with  only 
'/« — 1  %  bichrome). 
Compare  also  page  100. 


Developing  Colours. 


M 

"a 

3 

a* 
W 

Affinity  for 

o 

m  C 

o 

CO 

o 

V)    c 

S'i 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

CO 

o 
"  bfl 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton    Silk 

l-e  1 

to    M 

Change 

Bleed- 
ing 

Change  h.e^- 

■ 

Change  :  B!'<^- 

i  Quick 
Soda    ;     ii„e 

2-1 

3—4  1      3 

2 

2-1 

1 

3 

2-3 

1 

2 

1-2 

2-1         2 

1      ;      2 

2     1  1—2 

2-3 

1        :        1 

2 

2-1 

1 

3 

2—3 

1 

2-1 

2-1 

1-2 \  2-1 

1      i  2-1 

2     ;  1-2  j 

1-2 

2-3 ; 2-3 

2 

2—1 

1 

2-3 

2-3 

1 

2 

1-2 

1-2        2 

1      i      2 

2      1  1—2 

4-5 

3-4  ;  3—2 

3 

2 

1 

3 

2-3 

1 

1 

1 

1—2 : 1-2 

1      1      1 

2     \  1-2 

1     • 
2-1 

3—4  i      3 

2 

2 

2-1 

3-4 

3 

2 

2-3 

2-3 

1-2  ■  3—2 

1—2  i  2-3 

2     1  1-2 

5 

4—5  i      3 

3 

2 

1 

3 

2 

1 

1 

1 

1      i      1 

1      1      1 

1      1      1     1 

1-2 

1 

1         1-2 

2 

1 

2 

3 

3 

1 

1-2 

1-2 

2         1—2 

2         1—2 

2    ;    2 

82 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dycstuffs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Acid  Alizarine  Red  G  pat. 


Acid  Alizarine  Red  B 


Acid  Alizarine  Grenade  R 


Willi  10%  Glaubers  s.-ill 
and  3 — 4%  sulphuric  .icid, 
at  the  lM>il;  (he  shade  is 
develiiped  with  liichrome. 
Also  dyed  on  a  chrome  mord- 
ant in  which  cise  an  addit- 
ion of  0,5 — 1  °o  bichronie 
is  rinally  made. 


Level  dyeing  colours  fast  to  light,  milling 
and  cirbonising,  alone  or  in  combinatit.n 
with  other  chrome  developing  colours  on 
loose  wool,  sliibbing,  -eorsted  yarn  and  pirce 
iroods.  On  account  of  their  solubility  suitable 
for  dyeing  in  machines.  The  Acid  Alizarine 
RihIs  are  particularly  suiuiblc  for  iniiL'\ting 
madder  shades  on  aimy  and  carri,igc  cloths. 
Acid  Alizarine  Grenade  R  is  especially 
suitable  for  f.TSt  brown,  claret  and  fancy 
shades. 


Acid  Alizarine  Brown  R 


Acid  Alizarine  Brown  B 


Acid  Alizarine  Brown  BB  pat. 


Acid  Alizarine  Brown  T  pat. 


Dyed  in  one  bath  with  10 "o 
(ilauber"s  salt  and  2  — 4% 
sulphuric  acid;  the  shade  is 
developed  with  1 — 3%  bi- 
chrome.  An  excess  of  acids 
or  of  bichrome  must  be 
avoided.  Whin  dyed  with 
acetic  acid  only,  fuller  shadi-s 
are  obtained,  which  are  not 
(piitc  so  fast.  May  be  dyed 
also    on    a  chrome  mordant. 


\'ery  fast  to  light  and  milling;  stand  cir- 
bonising  with  sulphuric  acid.  Used  in  all 
branches  of  fast  wool  dyeing  in  combination 
with  all  other  chrome  developing  and  mor- 
dant colours,  and  with  acid  dyestuffs  which 
arc  fast  to  chrome.  Employed  for  fast  shad.  ~ 
on  loose  -wool,  shibbins;,  yarn  and  />;<■.< 
spoils  in  hat  dyeing,  on  shoddy  material  etc. 
The  following  brands,  which  arc  f.-ister  to 
nibbing  and  lint  cotton  less,  arc  used  for 
the  same  purpose:  Atiil  Alharinc  Iho'.en 
A'/',  J\K  and  K//  extra,  the  latter  leaves 
cotton  effects  perfectly  clear  and  is  therefore 
especially  suitable  for  piece  goods  with 
white  or  coloured  effects. 


Developing  Dyestuffs. 


83 


bo 

.5 

3 

cr 
W 

Affinity  for 

o 

II 

o 

2,0 

C   M 

II 

M  5 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

o 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

Change 

Bleeding 

1^ 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda 

Se 

2-3 

1-2 

2—3 

1—2 

1 

1 

2-3 

1 

1 

2 

8-2 

1-2 

2 

1—2 

2-1 

1—2 

2—3 

2-3 

1 

1—2 

1 

1-2 

1—2 

1 

1 

1 

1—2 

2-3 

1-2 

2 

1-2 

2—1 

2 

2-1 

1-2 

1—2 

2-3 

1-2 

1 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

1 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

1 

1-2 

1-2 

1—2 

2 

4 

3 

3-4 

2 

1 

2 

2 

1 

1—2 

2-1 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

1-2 

1-2 

2 

2 

4 

3 

4 

1-2 

2 

2 

2 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

2—3 

4 

3 

3—4 

1—2 

2 

2 

2 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

• 
1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1  '^~^ 

4 

3 

3-4 

1—2 

1-2 

2 

2 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1    ; 

Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dvcstuffs  used  in  ^'ool  Dyeinq. 


Method  of  Dyeing 


i  'y  a  M  iiri  In-  „  i ,,  rj-  r's 
s.ilt  and  4"'.o  siilpliuiic  iricl, 
at  iIk-  boil,  and  dtvrl..|).-<l 
in  the  same  balh  with  hi- 
chrome    and   sulphuric   acid. 


Application 


Dyed  in  one  balh  with  20% 
Glauber's  salt  and  3°o  sul- 
phuric acid;  entered  at  140 'K, 
the  bath  heated  to  the  boil, 
the  goods  boiled  for  1  hour, 
the  shade  devcln|wtl  with  bi- 
chromc  or,  in  order  to  im- 
prove the  fastness  to  milling, 
with  bichrome,  lactic  acid  and 
sulphuric  add. 


Very  lc\cl  dveing  colour  fast  to  milling. 
Used  on  /onjrsroo/and  stubbing  in  c»«mbination 
with  f.ist  add  colours,  .l/izarinr  Rrd  lU'S 
and  Alizarine  YtUo-u-  <,'0'll'  for  fancy  and 
brown  shades,  also  on  Trra-.ing-,  knitting- 
and  hoiirry  yams,  in  //<•.<•  dyring  on  light 
and  heavy  worsted  and  carded  material, 
espedaliy  for  fanc)-  shades. 


With    ICo    Glauber's   salt 

and   3 — 4°a  sulphuric  add, 

developedwiih  1 — 3%copper 

sulphate. 


Fast  to  light  and  washing,  also  moderately 
fast  to  milling.  More  seldom  used  on  loosf 
■wool  for  self  brown,  on  slubbing  for  melanges 
and  yams  suitable  for  soap-  and  water 
milling;  also  to  a  Lirge  extent  on  piece  goods 
for    cheap    brown    suitings    fast  to   wearing. 


Ver>'  fast  to  light.  Used  on  loose  tpool. 
Yarn  and  piece  goods  for  claret  reds  where 
no  great  demands  are  made  as  to  fastness 
(o  milling;  on  car]>et  yams,  on  curtain  and 
upholster)-  goods ;  for  shading  in  combination 
with  the  copper  colours  specincd  below. 


With  50  "o  Glauber's  salt 
and  3  "/o  acetic  acid ;  the  goods 
are  entered  at  122—141)°  K, 
the  bath  heated  slowly  to 
the  boil,  llien  l"o  sulphuric 
acid  added  twice,  and  the 
shade  develo|x'd  with  2% 
copper  sulphate. 


Is    employed    in    the    same    manner    .is    the 
following  dvestuffs. 


With  30—50%  C.laubci's 
salt  and  3 — 4"o  sulphuric 
add  for  '/i  —  1  hour  at  the 
boil,  then  developwl  by  boi- 
ling for  '/i  hour  with  2^3 "» 
copper  sulphate.  Wm)l  fabrics 
with  silk  effect  threads  are 
dyed  at  the  Imil  with  the 
addition  of  10  "o  <ilauber's 
salt  and  10 — 15  °o  acetic 
acid  or  4—6%  formic  acid, 
and  developed  in  a  new  lath 
with  3 — 4%  copjx-r  sulphate 
and    1 — 2%  sulphuric  acid. 


Extremely  fast  to  light,  inexpensive  and  fast 
to  wearing.  Largely  used  in  piece  dyeing 
for  dark  blue  to    black    shades  fast  to  light 

and  wearing. 

Es|>ccially  suitable  for  dyeing  all  wool  goods 

with  white  silk  effects. 


Developing  Dyestuffs. 


85 


2i° 

Affinity  for 

ness  to 
bbing 

ness  to 
ight 

;ss  to 
iiing 

sss  to 
nising 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 
en  " 

2  ^     Fastness  to 
m.=           Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

ta 

C  «    1    c  o 

c  S 

, 

3 

Cotton;  Silk 

Sc2   i 

tsa   ts-e 

Change 

Bleeding 

S^      Change 

Bleeding  Change  :  Bleeding 

Soda 

Quick  1 

u<       t. 

[I.        I  faU 

bn 

t,         1 

1 

1-2        2 

1—2 

2 

2-3 

1 

2-1 

1 

1 

1—2 

1-2 

1                1 

1 

2 

2—3 

1 

4 

2-3  i      3 

2 

2-3 

3 

2-3 

1 

1-2 

3 

3 

2 

3 

2 

2-3 

1-2 

2 

3"" 

3-4  \      2 

2 

1 

2 

3 

5 

1-2 

3—4 

3—4 

2 

3 

3 

2 

2 

4 

5 

2     :     2 

2-3 

3 

2-3 

2— S 

2 

1-2 

3-2 

3 

2 

3-2 

2—1 

2-3 

1-2 

2-3 

3-4 

1-2  ;    2 

1-2 

2 

2 

2-3 

3 

1-2 

3 

3-4 

4 

3-4 

3 

3—4 

2 

3 

4 

I 

1-2        2 

1-2 

2 

2 

2 

3-2 

1 

3 

3 

3 

3-4 

3 

3 

2 

3 

4 

1-2  i  2—1 

1-2 

2 

2—1 

2 

3-2 

1 

3 

3 

3 

1  3-4 

3 

3 

2 

;  ^ 

Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dvestuffs  used  in  ^X  ool  Dyeing. 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


With  10-  20  "o  GLiubir's  salt 
and  2,5 — 4  °o  sulpluiric  aciil 
the  );ikkJs  arc  entered  at  122 
—  140"  F.  the  bath  iM.iled 
fi)r  1  himr,  the  shade  de- 
veliiped  by  boihnnfor '/« —  ',4 
hour  with  2,5%  bichrome. 
In  order  to  increase  the 
fastness  to  iniUin^,  2 — 3"o 
lactic  acid  and  1  — 2"o  sul- 
phuric acid  are  added  to  the 
chrome  bath. 


Yield  ilark  blues  vcr\-  fast  to  light  and  wearing 
also  fast  to  perspiration,  rubbing  and  car- 
bonising. iJrgely  used  for  piece  dyeing, 
alone  or  in  combination  with  acid  dvestuffs, 
which  stand   chrome,    such  ,ts  Patent    Blue, 

J-'ast  .-till/   I'lolet,  Milling  Jilut  etc. 
Developing   with   bichrome,    lactic    acid    and 
sulphuric  .icid  incrrascs  the  fastness  to  milling; 
used   on    loose    -wool,    sliibbing    and  yarn. 


Chromotrope  FB 

iir 


On  loose  wool  w  ith  10  "  o 
Glauber's  salt,  3 — 5%  acetic 
acid ;  gradually  3 — 4  %  sul- 
phuric acid,  to  be  added; 
on  other  goods  with  20  °  o 
(ilauber's  salt  .ind  3°o  sul- 
phuric acid  ;  the  goods  are 
entered  at  140°  K.  the  bath 
heated  to  the  boil,  kept  boi- 
ling for  1  hour  and  the  shade 
developed  with  2'/j— 3% 
bichrome;  or,  preferably,  with 
3%  bichrome  2 — 3"o  lactic 
acid  and  1  —  2''o  sulphuric 
acid,   for  '/<  hour  at  the  boil. 


Suitable  for  light  and  medium  blue  shades, 
fast  to  light  and  milling,  in  fast  wool  dyeing 
on  loose  wool,  stubbing;  lai^ely  used  on  r«rH 
and  pieee  goods,  alone  or  in  combination 
with  Alizarine  A'ed  I  It'.S,  Alizarine  Yellow 
con;  Mordant  )'ello7f  O  and  fast  acid 
dyc'Stuffs  suable  to  chrome.  As  a  ground 
or  used  also  as  a  topping  colour  in  combination 
with  indigo. 


Employed  in  the  same  manner  as  the  fore- 
going   for    medium    and    dark    blue    shades. 


With  10%  Glauber's  salt 
and  4  °  o  sulphuric  acid  at 
the  boil  and  developed  in  one 
bath  with  2— 3",o  bichrome 
also  suitable  for  dyeing  on 
a  mordant. 


Fast  to  milling  and  light.  Especially  suit- 
able for  darkening  and  for  the  production 
of  combination  shades  in  combination  with 
other  chrome  developing  colours  on  loose- 
vool,  stubbing,  yarn  and  piece  goods. 


Developing  Dyestuffs. 


87 


C 

"a 

3 

W 

Affinity  for 

o 

fa 

o 
fa 

O   M 

■"  .s 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

h 
U 

fa 

o 

in  C 
£  « 

1^ 

Fastness  to  '  Fastness  to 
Soda        1       Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies     ; 

Cotton; 

Siik 

faU 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding'  Change  Bleeding 

Soda 

Quick  , 
Lime    | 

3—4 

2-3 

2-3 

2—1 

2-1 

2—1 

1-2 

I 

1 

2-H 

2-3 

2-1 

2-3 

1-2 

2-1 

1—2 

2 

3  -4 

2—3  ; 

j 

2-8 

2-1 

2-1 

2-1 

1-2 

1 

1 

2-3 

2-3 

2-1 

2 

1-2 

2-1 

1-2 

2 

3—4 

2      ; 

2-3 

1-2 

1-2 

2 

1—2 

1 

1 

3 

2-3 

2-3 

3-2 

2 

2-8 

2 

2 

3-4 

1 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

2-1 

1-2 

1 

1 

1-2 

2 

2 

2-1 

2-1 

2—1 

2 

2     1 

1 

3-4 

1 

1 

1—2 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

1 

1 

2—1 

1 

1-2 

1-2 

1—2 

1-2 

2-J 

8-4 

1-2 

1 

1—2 

2-1 

2 

1-2 

1 

1 

2-1 

2 

2 

2-3 

2 

2 

2-1 

2 

3 

1-2 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

2 

1--2 

1—2 

1 

2-1 

2—3 

1-2 

2-1 

1-2 

1-2 

1-2 

1-2 

t 

88 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  DycstufFs  used  in  W  ool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Acid  Alizarine  Blue  OR  pat. 


Acid  Alizarine  Blue  I^B  pat. 


Fast  Mordant  Blue  R  pat. 


Acid  Alizarine  Blue  WK  pat. 


CTiromotrope  8R 


Wilh  20 »„  Gl.iiiber-s  s.ilt 
and  3 — 4%  sulphuric  acid, 
at  the  boil,  developed  wilh 
2 — 3  "  0  fluoride  of  chroini', 
or  wilh  1  —  2  Vs  %  bichtoiiie. 
For  jjoods  which  do  not 
equalize  easily  the  bath  is 
prcparcil  with  3—5  "o  acetic 
acid  at  first,  and  then  sul- 
phuric acid  gradually  addid. 
May  also  be  dyed  on  a 
mordant. 


Wilh  20  "o  Glauber's  salt  and 
3  "io  acetic  acid ;  the  (jootls  arc 
entered  at  140— ICO  "  I'.,  the 
bath  heated  to  the  boil ;  after 
boiling  for  '/»  llour  1 — 2  "o 
sulphuric  acid  is  added,  and 
the  shade  developed  with 
2 — 3"/o  bichiome.  Also  suit- 
able on  a  mordant. 


With  20%  Glauber's  s.ilt  and 
3  %  sulphuric  aciil ;  the  giHids 
arc  cnteiwl  at  140°  K,  the 
bath  heated  to  the  boil,  and 
kejit  boiling  for  1  hour;  then 
3  "  0  bichrome  is  added,  and 
the  shade  developed  by  boiling 
for  another  hour. 


With  20%  Glauber's  salt 
and  3 — 5''o  sulphuric  .icid, 
at  the  Ixiil,  and  developed 
in  the  same  bath,  by  boiiiiig 
for  'Z, — I  '/t  hours,  witii 
2 — 5  %  fluoride  of  chrome. 
May  alsi>  lie  used  on  a 
chrome  niord.inl. 


l-'ast  to  nibbing,  verj-  fast  to  light,  and 
very  well  equ.ilising.  Used  largely  on  piece 
g<MK!s,  easily  jienetrating  even  the  heaviest 
cloths.  Also  on  slubbing  and  u-orsliii  yarns 
for  blue  and  fancy  shades  in  combination 
with  AInaritie  nil  I  ll'S  and  J/orJant 
]'r//o:r  O  in  all  ciscs  where  f.TStness  to 
l)lee<ling,  rubbing  and  light  are  of  imporUince. 
More  rarely  used  on  /oi'sr  mnfrria/  as  they 
are  affected  by  alkaline  milling  etc.  On  a 
chrome   mordant  for  shading  Alizarine  blue 

etc. 

Developed  with    bichrome    they   yield    grey 

shades. 


Very  fast  dyestuffs,  especially  when  devel- 
oped with  bichrome ;  they  arc  of  the  greatest 
importance  in  all  branches  of  fast  wool  dyeing, 
also  for  dyeing  in  machines,  and  /oose 
Hiii/rnii/,  slubbing,  'iivavim;  yarns  and  light 
and  he.ivy  putt:  goods  wherever  fastness  to 
milling,  light,  steaming  etc,  is  essential.  Sui- 
table for  dark  blue,  and  also  for  mixed  and 
fancy  shades  on  account  of  their  good  equa- 
lising ))io|)erly.  Their  ajiplicition  on  a  mor- 
dant is  described  on  (wge  lOG.  Other  brands 
,1,  ■     l„.t  Mor.i„„t    lUiir    K    '/;    HI\    and 


Yields  dark  blue  shades  fast  to  light,  milling, 
and  wearing.  Used  for  the  production  of  dark 
blue  to  blue  black  shades  on  loose  material, 
slubbing  and  yarn  which  have  to  stand 
heavy  milling ;  more  seldom  on  pine  goods. 
On  mordant  it  is  suitable  for  dailjening 
Alizarine  Blue  etc. 


nioomy  blue  bl.ick  very  fast  to  light  and 
water.  Usetl  on  slubbing  and  yarn  for  milling 
in  water  and  soap  on  suiting  material  especially 
on  light  goods,  as  a  black  fast  to  per- 
spiration and  to  wearing. 
C'tmiparc  also  p.ige  33. 


Developing  DyestufFs. 


89 


bo 

Affinity  for 

o 

2 

o 

O   M 

S  'S 

Fastness  to 
Stovins 

o 

tr,   ^ 

In,-' 
ra 

o 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

S 

Cotton    Silk 

c-T       c  CO    1    c  o 

PL,„„„  :  Bleed- 

Is 

Cba„gc;Bj-l- 

Change  - 

Bleed- 
ing 

1 

Soda    ;    Time 

■1 
2-3 

3-4      3-4 

2-3 

2 

3 

2—1 

1—2  \      1 

1—2 

2 

3-4  :  1-2 

8 

1 

4             1 

2     ;      2 

1-2 

2 

3-2 

1-2 

1-2  \      1 

1 

2 

3-4     1-2 

3 

1 

4      \      4 

3-2 

8-4     3-4 

2 

2 

3-2 

1-2 

2           1 

1-2 

2 

3      i  2-1 

2-3 

1-2 

3-4  1  3-4  ' 

3 

i 
2      '  2-1 

1-2 

1-2 

1—2 

1—2 

1        !       1 

1 

1-2 

1-2      1—2 

1-2 

1 

1-2      1-2 

2-3 

2      ■  2—1 

1-2 

1-2 

2—1 

1—2 

1    ^    1 

1 

1-2 

2-1      1-2 

2-1 

1-2 

2-1  :     2 

4-3 

4        3—4 

3 

2 

1 

1 

1      !      1 

2-3 

2 

1     ;     2 

1 

2 

1      ;  1-2 

4 

i 

1         ;         2 

1-2 

3 

2-3 

1—2 

1        1 

2 

2 

2      :  2-3 

2-1 

2-3 

3-4        3 

tJale 


<jO 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dycstuffs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Ceruleine  1'.  \V  I 


Dyed  in  a  single  balh  with 
10 •(0  OUuIkts  salt  and  4»o 
sulphuric  acid  ai  100°  K:  the 
liatli  is  hfal«l  slowly  |i>  the 
l>oil  within  'It  hour,  kept  lioii- 
inj;  for  1  hour  and  the  sh.ide 
then  developed  by  lioiling  for 
1  hour  with  S'/o  l>ichronicor 
4°/o  fluoride  of  chrome.  Also 
suitable  for  dyeing  a  mordam. 


With  20%  Glauber's  salt; 
goods  not  dyeing  through 
easily  require  still  greater 
amounts  and  3%  suiphuric 
acid,  at  the  boil,  developed 
with  2  — 4''/o  fluoride  of 
chrome  or  1 — 3%bichrome. 


With  10— 20%  Glaul>er's 
salt  and  5°/o  acetic  acid,  at 
the  lx)il.  developed  with 
l-2''/o  bichrome  If  re- 
quired 1 — 2''/o  sulphuric  .icid 
are  added  Itefore  llie  addition 
of  chrome,  in  oider  to  ex- 
haust the  bath. 


For    the    prtxluction    of   green,    brown    and    | 
bronze    shadi-s    fast    to  milling  and  light  on 

/oosr  i«vt'/,  slubbing  and  yorn. 

For  application  on  a  mordant  compate(«ge  10^. 

The    brand  11    is    rather    bluer   and  clearer; 

it  is  used  for  the  s.nme  purpose. 


Penetrates  better  than  Ceruleine  B  W  R, 
faster  to  bleedmg.  but  not  so  fast  to  alka- 
lies. Used  on  slubbingand  u'r<n-ing yarns  for 
milling  in  water  and  siap;  on  heavy  tailoring 

cloths  and  lighter  suiting  material. 

Sometimes    used   on  a   mordant   for  shading 

with  other  mordant  dyestuffs. 


Yields  grey  shades  fast  to  light  and  milling. 
For  the  pioduclion  of  grey,  mixed  and  fancy 
sh'ides  on  l^^osf  -woo/,  stubbing  yarn  and  /urt-r 
l^'ooi/s  ;  on  used  on  men's  and  ladies'  hat  l>odies, 
in  combination  with  other  developing  ami 
fast  acid  colours;  much  used  in  "apparatio 
dyeing",    also   on  a  mordant   see   page    62. 


Dyed  in  a  single  l>ath  with 
20'''o  Olauber's  s.ilt  and  o"/o 
acetic  acid,  at  122°  F,  after 
boiling  for  'It  hour,  1  —  2% 
sulphuric  acid  to  be  added, 
boiled  for  '/>  ^^oui ,  then 
developed  with  1 — 3°o  bi- 
chrome  by  boiling  for  '/<  hour. 


Like  the  brand  B;  can  also 
be   developed    with    fluoride 
of    chrome,    or    dyed    on   a 
mordant. 


On  account  of  its  fastness  to  milling  and 
light  used  on  slubbing  yarns  and  Jiiece  gooJs 
for  the  production  of  mixed  and  fancy  shades 
fast  to  niilbng,  in  combination  with  other 
chrome  dcvelojiing  colours. 


Is  employed  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
brand  B ;  still  faster  to  light  and  milling, 
especially  when  developed  with  bichrome ; 
for  that  reason  it  is  also  used  on  loose  uvo/. 


With  20%  Glaulier's  salt 
and  3°o  sulphuric  acid;  the 
gooiis  are  entered  at  140° 
K.,  the  Kith  heatctl  to  the 
boil,  kept  boiling  for  1  hour; 
then  3°'o  bichrome  are  ad- 
ded, and  the  balh  boiled  for 
another  hour. 


With  20  °o  Glauber's  salt 
and  3  °'o  sulphuric  acid,  devel- 
oped with  3°o  bichrome 
or  preferably,  with  3"o  bi- 
chrome, 3°/o  lactic  »cid  and 
1 — 2°'o  sulphuric  .icid. 


Black    shades    fast    to  light    and    water    on 

slubbing    and  yarn     for    moderate    milling; 

on  />/<■<■<•  gooi/s    for   black  fast  to  water  and 

perspinilion,  c-spccially  for  lighter  goods. 

Compare  also  page  38. 


Black  shade  fast  to  light,  rubbing,  and 
wearing  used  sometimi-s  on  /oase  wool  fr 
self  blacks,  on  slubbing  for  knitting  yarn 
melanges,  on  yarn  for  milling  in  water  and 
soap;    also  largely    used    on  piWe  goods  for 

blacks  of  great  f.istness  and  beauty. 
Further  brands  are  Chromotrope  5^  and  SR, 


Developing  Dyestuffs. 


bo 

c 

3 
O"      1 

Affinity  for 

o 

"   bo 
(n  c 

o 

o 

■"  bo 
•n.S 

o   bB 

■"  .S 

S'S 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

1* 

o 

■"  bo 
m.C 

1* 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton; 

Silk 

Si;    tJi-e 

rat/)        IB  a 

Change  ;  Bleeding 

Change  iBIeeding 

Change  :  Bleeding 

Soda    j  '^Z^ 

1 
4 

4      \ 

4 

4 

2-3 

1 

4 

3      :      1 

2 

1-2 

2 

1-2 

;             1 
2     ;  1-2 

1-2 

1--2 

4 

1-2 

2-3 

2 

3 

3-2 

2 

1      \      1 

I 

" 

3-2 

1—2 

2-3        1 

3-2 

2-H 

I 

4 

4 

3-4 

^ 

2—3 

2-1 

1—2 

2-1  :      1 

2 

2-3 

1-2 

1 

1-2  ;  1—2 

1-2 

1 

4 

4—3 

3 

2 

2 

2 

1—2 

1-2  j      1 

2 

2-3 

2—1 

2-1 

1-2  : 1-2 

1-2 

1 

i 
1 

4 

3—4 

3 

2 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

1            1 

2-1 

2-3 

1-2 

1-2 

1    ;  1-2 

1-2 

1 

4 

2 

2-3 

2 

2-3 

2 

1—2 

1     ;     1 

2 

2 

2 

;  2—3 

1-2  i  2-3 

2-3 

2 

4 

2 

3 

2 

1 

1-2 

1-2 

1     i     1 

2 

2-1 

1-2 

2-3 

I 
2-1  1      2 

2 

2 

92 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  DycstufFs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing  .,    Application 


Acid  Alizarine  Black  3  B  extra  pat. 


Acid  Alizarine  Black  3  B  pat. 


Acid  Alizarine  Black  R  pat. 


Acid  Alizarine  Black  R  C.  pat. 


Acid  Alizarine  Black  RH  pat. 


Acid  Alizarine  Black  T  pat. 


Acid  Alizarine  Black  T  G  pat 


With    10 "o    GLiubci's     s;ill 
and  4  "o  sulphuric  acid,  devel- 
oped with  'i — 3%  bichroine 
by  boiling  for  '/4  hour. 


lv|u^ilise  very  wclUvoiy  fast  to  light,  rubbing;, 
steaming  and  wearing.  Most  extensively 
used  in  all  branches  of  fast  wool  dyeing. 
More  rarely  on  hosf  ntateriai^  and  only 
for  light  buckskin  milling;  very  suitable  for 
dyeing  and  printing  of  slubbing;  used  to  a 
large  extent  on  -corstril  yarn  and  pure  goods 
for  men's  suitings,  worsted  goods  and  cheviots. 
The  bluer  brands  are  also  employed  in 
combination  with  logwood,  oxalic  acid,  chrome 
alum  or  fluoride  of  chrome. 
i  Much  used  in  hair  hat  liymig,  owing  to 
their  penetration ;  also  for  black  on  stiffened 
vool  hats  without  logwood.  Of  great  impor- 
tance in  -corstfii  yarn  dyeing,  on  account 
their  of  eiisy  manipulation  and  of  their  good 
ecpialising  property ,  especially  when  dyed 
and  developed  in  separate  baths.  L;irgcly 
used  in  apparatus  dyeing;  iron  vessels  do 
not  affect  them  injuriously ;  if  copper  vessels 
are  used  an  addition  of  sulphocyanide  of 
ammonia  is  necessary. 


Developing  Dyestuffs. 


93 


Affinity  for 

o 

m  C 

S  J3 

o 

o 

"1 .5 

v  B 
c  « 

tn  " 

a 

"  o 
■"  -P 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

in  ^ 

2m 

S  « 
fa 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

t-          fa 

Change 

Bleed- 
ing 

1^ 

Change 

Bleed- 
ing 

CH=.n«e|  Bl^- 

Soda 

Quick 

2-3 
3-2 

2-3 

4-3 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

1 

1-2 

3 

2 

1-2 

2-3 

1-2    :       2 

1-2 

1 

3 

4-3 

2 

2 

1-2 

1 

1 

1 

8 

2-1 

1 

2 

1      \      2 

1 

1       j 

3-2 

1-2 

3-4 

1-2 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

1 

1 

2-3 

2-1 

1 

2 

1      ^  2—1 

1 

1 

3-2 

2 

3-4 

2 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

1 

2-3 

2-1 

1-2 

2 

1—2  :  2-1 

1-2 

1 

3-2 

2 

3-4 

2-1 

2 

1—2 

1—2 

1 

1 

2—3 

2 

1-2 

2 

1-2  i  2—1 

2-1 

1-2  j 

3-2 

2 

3—4 

2 

2 

1—2 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

2-3 

1-2 

1—2 

2 

:                 1 

:                1 

1—2  :  2—1      2-1 

1-2 

3-2 

1 

2 

3-4 

2 

2 

1—2 

1-2 

2-1 

1 

2—3 

2-3 

2 

2-8 

2-1  ;  2-1 

1-2 

1-2 

Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestuffs  used  in  W  ool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Chrome  Black  2G 


Chrome  Black  B 


Chrome  Black  T 


With  10%  Glauber's  s.ill 
.iiid  5 — I0°'o  acftic  acid, 
ilevclopcil  by  boiling  for 
'It— I  hour  with  1' ,— 2% 
bichroinc  and  2  — 3°o  copper 
sulphate. 


Acid  Alizarine  Black  SET  paste  pat. 


\\r\'  fast  lo  milling,  steaming  an<l  carboni- 
sing. <^n  hwse  niDtirial  for  self  colours 
and  melanges,  on  slubbing  for  the  saiiio 
pur|x)scs,  on  yarn  for  articles  fast  to  milling, 
also  pine  goods.  Best  black  fast  to  milling 
on  s/ioMv,  since  it  is  unaffected  by  I'tli'  r 
metal  mordants. 


With  a  small  addition  of 
•icelic  acid  to  the  dyebath 
(corrected  with  oxalate  of 
ammonia) ;  the  Ixith  is  ex- 
hausted with  .acetic  or  sul- 
phuric acid  and  the  shade 
developed  with  I.5-3°/o 
bichrome.  Can  also  be  dyed 
on  a  mordant,  in  which  case 
.in  addition  of  0.5— l°'o 
liichronie  after  dyeing  is 
advisable. 


Of  excellent  fastness  in  every  respect,  and 
distinguished  for  shades  which  resemble  log- 
wood black.  Largely  used  in  all  branches 
of  fast  wool  dyemg  on  /oose  uvo/,  slubbing, 
ami  yarn,  more  rarelv  on  piece  goods.  Kor 
black,  for  mixed  and  fanc\'  shades  and  dark 
blues,  in  combination  witli  fast  developing 
and  acid  dyestuffs.  Also  on  a  mordant  fur 
darkening  and  for  the  production  of  com- 
bination shades.  May  be  used  for  dyeing 
military  cloths.  Both  brands  are  .also  sold 
in  powder  form  as  .Icid  Alizarine  ju'iu  i- 
S£  powder  and  .SET po-.tder. 


Acid  Alizarine  Black  SN  pat. 


Acid  Alizarine  Black  SNT 


With    h'"„    acetic  acid  or  a 
little  sulphuric  acid  ;  the  goods 

are  entered  at  120—140"  V .,  \ 

the     bath     exhausted     with  | 

-iilphuric  acid,  and  the  sh.ade  | 

.Kveloped    with    ].h-2.h%  \ 

I  'ichrome.  Also  on  a  morckint.  I 


Of  the  same  fastness  properties  as  the  fore- 
going, they  suri).Tss  them  however  m  greater 
solubility,  and  are  therefore  suitable  for 
machine  dyeing;  used  on  piece  goods  for 
blacks  which  have  lo  stand  potting.  The 
SX  brand  is  suit.able  for  dark  blues  and 
goods  with  effect  threads.  For  kat  dyeing. 
Can    also    be    used    on  a  mordant. 


Developing  Dyestuffs. 


95 


Affinity  for 

o 

C  J2 

o 

c2 

o 
■"  be 

in  C 

o  bo 

■"  .5 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

O 

c2 

2bo 
ffil 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

1^ 

Si 

1(3 

Change  '   2!'^'='J- 
:      mg 

^--h'"f 

f,.        .  ;  Bleed- 
Change  :     j„g 

Soda 

1 
Quick 
lime 

4-5 

3-4 

3 

3 

3 

2-3 

2—1 

1-2  :    1 

3-2 

2 

1—2  i      2 

1      i      2 

1-2 

1-2 

4 

3-4 

3 

3 

3 

2—3 

2-1 

1-2  :      1 

2-3 

1-2 

1—2  \  1—2 

1      \     2 

1 

1 

4 

3—4 

3 

3 

3 

2-3 

2-1 

1—2  :     1 

2—3 

2—1 

1-2  ;  2-1 

1       ;       2 

1—2 

1-2 

4-3 

4 

4 

3 

1 

1 

1 

1          1 

1-2 

1 

1   ;  1-2 

1                 1 

1 

1 

4-3 

i 

4 

4 

3 

1 

1 

1 

1          :          1 

1-2 

1 

1      ^   1-2 

1     ;  1-2 

1 

1 

t 
4 

2 

3 

1—2 

1 

1 

1 

11 

1—2 

1 

1       1  1-2 

1     \  1-2 

1 

1 

4 

1 

3-2 

3 

2—1 

1 

1—2 

1 

1          1           1 

1-2 

1 

1         1-2 

1         1-2 

1 

1 

90 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestuffs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Developing  (Vigoureux)  Dyestuffs. 


M 

C 

"a 

3 

cr 
W 

Affinity  for 

o 

■"   M 
en  C 

§^ 

o 
CO 

2^ 

O    60 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton: 

Silk 

£^  1 

If)    u 

a  a 

Change  ;  Bleeding 

Change  Bleeding 

Change  iBlccding 

Soda  \  Q^J  : 

- 

- 

- 

2 

1 

1 

t 
1 

1        \       1 

2-3 

3-2 

1-2  \  2-1 

1-2  1  1-2 

1-2  ;      1 

- 

- 

- 

1-2 

1-2 

1-2 

1-2 

1-2  \      1 

2-1 

2-3 

2-1  i  1-2 

1-2  i  1—2 

_  2    ;     2    j 

- 

- 

- 

2 

3-2 

2-3 

1 

2      i      1 

2 
2-3 

3 

1-2  I      1 

1-2         1 

2-1   '      1 

' 

- 

- 

3 

1-2 

2 

2-1 

1-2  ;    1 

3 

2      i      2 

2-1  :      2 

1-2  1  1—2  i 

- 

- 

- 

3 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

2           1 

2-3 

3-2 

1-2  ^      2 

1-2  ■■     2 

1-2  ;  1—2 

- 

- 

2 

1-2 

2-1 

1 

1    :    1 

3-2     2-3 

1-2  \  2—3 

1--2  ]      2 

1        1-2 

- 

- 

- 

2 

1—2 

2-1 

1 

1      :      1 

2-3 

2-3 

1-2  ■  2-3 

1-2        2 

1          :     1-2    j 

7Ie 


08 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  DycstufFs  used  in  Wool  D\cin?. 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Dyed  on  a  bichrome  laruir 
mordant  wilh  acetic  acid  ;  the 
goodsarecntc  cdat  80-104''F., 
the  bath  heated  to  the  boil, 
and  kept  boiling  for  1 — I'/i 
hours. 


Used  for  shading  mixed  and  fancy  sliadi-s 
in  combination  with  other  alizarine  dyestuffs 
for  fast  dyeing  on  loose  ■U'ool,  slubbing^  and 
ram.  The  colour  does  not  bleed  into  white. 


Dyed  on  a  bichrome  and 
tartar  mordant,  or  preferably 
on  bichrome  and  sulphuric 
mordant  or  bichrome,  lactic 
acid  and  sulphuric  acid  mor- 
dant with  acetic  acid ;  also 
on  an  alum  mordant ;  they 
are  largely  used  ;is  one 
bath  colours  developed  with 
bichrome  or  fluoride  of 
hrome.  (Compare  page  80). 


Dyed  on  an  alum  and  tartir 
mordant ;  the  goods  are 
entered  at  85—104°  F.,  the 
bath  heated  slowly  to  the 
boil,  and  kept  boiling  for 
1  -!'/»  hours. 


On  a  bichrome  and  tartar 
mordant  or  bichrome  and 
sulphuric  acid  (and  lactic  acid) 
mordant..  The  goods  are 
entered  at  100°  F.,  the  bath 
heated  slowly  to  the  boil, 
(if  necessary  with  the  addition 
of  acetic  acid ;  kept  boiling 
for  1  —  I'/j   hours. 


As  fast  substitutes  for  fustic  used  in  all 
branches  of  fast  wool  dyeing  in  combination 
with  other  alizarine  and  mordant  colours; 
on  loose  -cool,  stubbing  for  heavy  and  water 
milling,  on  weaving  yarns,  which  have  to  stand 
milling:  on  knitting  hosiery  and  oqiet  yams, 
lln  [tide  goods  in  combination  with  othci 
alizarine  colours.  Alizarine  Yellow  GGII 
which  is  also  sold  in  paste  form,  equalises 
exceedingly  well  and  is  therefore,  largely  used 
in  piece  dyeing  and  for  the  production  of 
light  shades.  .-/<;,/  Alizarine  Yellow  A'C 
does  not  equalize  .-is  well  as  the  GGW 
brand,  it  is  however,  very  fast  to  milling, 
and  for  that  reason  fretiuently  used  on  loose 
wool,  slubbing  and  yarn,  where  fastness  to 
milling  is  essential;  Alizarine  'i'ellow  sG 
and  Mordant  Yellow  O  stand  between  the 
two  mentioned  brands.  For  application  as 
chrome  developing  colours  sec  p.ige  80. 


l)n  loose  wool,  slubbing  worsted  axiA  knitting 
yarns  for  buckskins  and  all  kinds  of  milled 
goods,  especially  for  mixed  shades  in  com- 
bination with  other  alizarine  dyestuffs;  on 
alumina  mordant  occasionally  as  self  colour. 
In  fiiece  dyeing  chiefly  for  men's  heavy 
coatings  in  combination  wilh  other  alizarine 
colours  for  brown  and  other  mixed  shades. 
Similar  brands  are:  Alizarine  Orange  paste, 
A'  paste,  P  paste  and  Alizarine  Orange 
powder. 


Alizarine  and  Mordant  Dyestuffs. 


99 


60 

C 

15 

3 

a" 
W 

Affinity  for 

o 
«  c 

II 

o 

o 

"  bo 
m.S 

<u  S 

£  "■ 
1'^ 

O  bO 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

is 
U 

o 
■"  bf) 

s  s 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to  ' 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda 

Quick 
Lime 

1 
1 

3 

3 

2-3 

1 

1 

3 

3-4 

1 

1 

1 

2 

1 

1-2 

1 

2 

2 

'     - 

2 

2 

2 

2—1 

1 

2 

2-3 

1 

3-2 

2-1 

1-2 

2-3 

1 

2-3 

1—2 

1-2 

- 

2 

2-3 

2 

2-1 

1 

2 

2-3 

1 

2—3 

1-2 

1-2 

2-3 

1 

2-3 

1-2 

1-2 

- 

1 

2-1 

2 

2 

1 

2-3 

2-3 

1 

2-1 

2 

1-2 

2 

1-2 

2 

2-1 

1-2 

- 

i 

3 

3-4 

2-1 

1 

2-3 

2-3 

1 

1 

1—2 

1-2 

1-2 

1—2 

1 

1-2 

2 

4 

3^4 

4 

1 

2 

- 

2-3 

1-2 

2 

1-2 

2-3 

2-3 

2 

2 

3 

3 

- 

4 

3 

3 

1 

1 

2-3 

1-2 

1 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

2-1 

1 

1-2 

2-1 

2-1 

100 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestuffs  used  in  Wool  D 


yeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Alizarine  Yellow  R\V  powder 


On  a  bichromc  and  (artar 
iiKirdant,  bitter  on  bichrome 
sulphuric  acid  (lactic  add) 
mordant  with  the  addition  of 
acetic  acid;  the  temperature 
is  raised  slowly  to  the  l>oil 
and  the  bath  kept  l>oilin);  for 
1^ — 1  '/•  hours.  Also  used 
as  a  one  bath  colour  viz 
devcloiK'd  wilh  bichrome. 


On  an  alum  and  tartar  mord- 
ant with  the  addition  of 
tannin  and  acetate  of  lime; 
the  goods  are  entered  at 
105°  y.,  the  bath  healed 
slowly  to  the  boil  and  kc])t 
boiling  for  I'/j  houre. 


Alizarine  Red  PS  powder 


Alizarine  Red  IW  paste 


On  a  bichrome.-  and  tartar 
or  bichrome,  lactic  acid  ami 
sul|)huric  acid  mordant;  the 
goods  are  entered  at  1(  0"  !•"., 
(water  containing  lime  is 
corrected  wilh  acetic  acid) ; 
llie  bath  is  heated  slowly  to 
tlie  boil  and  kept  boiling 
for  1  "/s  hours. 


Similar   to   Alizarine   Yellow    GGW;    and 
employed    in    the    same    manner.     See  pre- 
vious page. 
(Compare  also  page  60). 


Dyed  on  an  alum  imd  tirtar 
mordant ;  the  goods  are 
entered  at  101°  F.  with  the 
addition  of  2%  tannin  and 
'2,5—7,6%  acetate  of  lime,  j 
the  bath  heated  slowly  to  ihc  I 
boil  and  kept  boiling  for 
1  'It  hours. 


On  a.  bichrome  and  tartar 
mordant  or  bichrome  ami 
sulphuric  acid  (lactic  acidi 
mordant;  ihegoods  arc  entered 
at  104"  F.,  the  bath  heated 
slowly  to  the  l)oil  and  kept 
boiling  for  1  '/j  hours,  to  ex- 
haust the  bath  acetic  acid 
is  added. 


On  a  bichrome  and  tartar 
mordant,  or  bichrome  and 
suli)huric  acid  (lactic  acid) ; 
the  goods  are  entered  at 
105"  K.,  the  bath  heated 
slowly  to  the  boil  and  kept 
boiling  for  I'/j  hours  whilst 
adding  acetic  acid. 


On  an  alimi  and  tartar  mord- 
ant, with  the  addition  of 
2'7o  tannin  and  2,5— 7..'j"/o 
acetate  of  lime;  the  goods 
are  entered  at  104°  1'".,  the 
bath  is  healed  slowly  to  the 
boil,  and  kept  boiling  for 
1  7i  hours. 


On  /oo.\r  iiialenal  for  madder  shades  for 
all  miNcd  shades  in  combination  with  ali- 
zarine and  wooil  dyestuffs ;  on  slubbing  and 
worsted  yarn  for  buckskins  and  all  kinds  of 
milled  goods;  in  piece  dreing.  Alizarine 
A'eif  ill's,  PS  and  llie  somewhat  bluer 
sirs  are  more  soluble  than  ihe  Alizarine 
paste  brands,  therefore  suitable  for  dyeing 
in  machines  and  on  piece  goods;  they  am 
ilso  f.ister  to  rubbing  and  bleeding  than  the 
paste  brands.  For  the  application  of  the  S 
brands  as  one  bath  coloure  see  p.Tge  80. 
Besides  1  \V  the  following  paste  br.mds, 
are  largely  used  ;  Alizarine  Red  4FII' paste 
and  2lilV  paste ;  4F\V  is  yellower  2BW 
bluer  than   W\    paste.' 


Alizarine  and  Mordant  Dyestuffs. 


101 


3 

W 

Affinity  for 

o 

m  .£ 

C  J3 

o 

<u   bo 
a 

o 

in  C 

O   M 

—  c 
H| 

Fastness  to 
Sieving 

o 

¥ 

o 

"   60 

S  ™ 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Allcalies 

Cotton; 

Silk 

Change : 

deeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda    ; 

Quick 

- 

2-3  ] 

8 

2-3 

2-1 

1 

3 

3      i 

2 

3 

2 

2-1 

2-3 

1-2  ; 

2-3 

2-1  i 

1 

- 

4     i 

3 

8 

1 

1 

3 

2-3  ' 

1-2 

2 

2-3 

1-2 

2 

2 

1-2 

2-1  1 

2-3 

- 

2 

2 

2-8 

1 

1-2 

3 

2-8 

2-1 

2 

2 

1-2 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

1-2 

1-2 

1 
1 

2-3 

2-3 

3 

1 

1-2 

3 

2-3 

1-2 

2-1 

2 

2 

i    2 

2 

1-2 

2 

3     ' 

- 

2 

2 

2-3 

1 

1-2 

8 

2-3 

1-2 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

;  2-1 

1-2 

1-2 

1-2 

2 

- 

4 

I      3 

3-4 

1 

1-2 

3 

2-3 

i     2 

2-3 

1-2 

2—3 

;  2-3 

2 

1     2 

2-3 

;    3 

- 

4 

i    3 

2-3 

1 

1 
1 

3-4 

3 

1      2 

2 

1-2 

2 

I  2—1 

2 

:  2-1 

2 

;  2-3 

102 


Tabulated  Survey   of  the  Dyestuffs  used  in  ^X■ool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Alizarine  Red  2BW  paste 


Alizarine  Red  2BW  paste 


Alizarine  Claret  R  paste 


Alizarine  Brown  paste 


On  an  alum  and  tartar  mord- 
ant with  tannin  and  acetate 
of  lime:  the  goods  are  ent- 
ered at  106°  F.,  the  hath 
heated  slowly  and  boilixi  for 
1  '/;  hours. 


Application 


On  a  bicbromc  and  tartar 
mordant  or  bichrome,  lactic 
acid  and  sulphuric  acid  mord- 
ant; the  goods  are  entered 
at  106"  K.,  the  bath  (cor- 
rected with  acetic  acid)  is 
heated  slowly  to  the  boil 
and  kept  boiling  for  1  '/i  hours. 


On  an  alum  and  tarLir  or 
bichrome  and  tartar  mordant 
in  a  bath  corrected  with 
acetic  acid ;  the  goo<is  arc 
entered  at  105—120°  I'"., 
the  bath  brought  to  the  boil 
and  kept  boiling  for  1  '/j  hours. 


Alizarine  Brown  N  paste 


Alizarine  Brown  F  paste 


1S.5*/. 


Alizarine  Brown  WR  paste 


l\i.S'l. 


a  bichrome  and  tartar 
mordant,  or  bichrome  and 
sulphuric  acid  (lactic  acid) 
mordant  in  a  bath  corrected 
with  acetic  acid. 


In  ever)-  respect  equal  to  and  used  for  the 

same  purposes  as  Alizarine   Red  1  W  paste. 

(Sec  previous  page). 


In  fast  wool  dyeing,  es|iccially  on  hose 
■••■ool  ;ind  pific  goods  for  shading  alizarine 
red  shades  on  chrome  and  alumina  mordants. 


As  a  fast  brown  largely  used  on  loosi-  '..ool 
alone  or  in  combination  with  other  .-tlizarinc 
colours  for  all-wool  materials  buckskins  and 
all  kinds  of  milled  goods;  on  stubbing, 
-(■I'rslrii  yarn,  knitting  and  hosiery  yarns 
for  milled  goods  on  fast  hosiery  ai tides; 
in  /;<(r  Jycing  and  hat  dyeing  for  brown 
and  fancy  shades.  In  addition  to  the 
siK-cified  l)rands  the  following  are  also  on 
llie  market:  Alizarine  Jirown  R  paste, 
O paste,  H paste,  I6X-;  and  Alizarine  lirovn 
po-.eder,   K  powder,   S  po:.der,  RD  po'.cder. 


Alizarine  and  Mordant  Dyestuffs. 


103 


1 
W 

AfTinity  for 

1   ° 

1    "   hX! 

".5 

«^ 
fa 

o 

01    4-. 

s 

0 
■"  bo 

£1 

0  M 

si 
£c3 

Fastness  to 
Sieving 

0 

in    ^ 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

S  5  i  "■= 

Cotton 

\  Silk 

Change 

Blecdini 

fa 

Change 

i  Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding     Soda 

|2^ 

- 

i      * 

;    3 

3-4 

1 

1-2 

2-3 

2 

I    2 

2 

1-2 

2-3 

!      3 

2 

;      2 

2-3 

I  3 

- 

4 

'     3 

2-3 

1 

1 

3—4 

3 

;    2 

2 

2 

2-3 

2-3 

2 

:  2-1 

2 
2 

1 2-3 
^   2 

- 

4 

3 

3 

1-2 

•^ 

3-4 

2 

2 

2 

1-2 

2 

2-1 

2 

2-1 

- 

4 

3 

3 

2 

2 

3 

2 

1 

1 

1-2 

2-1 

1—2 

1-2 

1-2 

2-3 

:    -"^ 

_ 

4 

3 

3 

2 

2-3 

3 

2 

1 

1 

1-2 

2-1  : 

1—2 

1 

1-2   : 

1-2 

2-3 

3 

- 

4     j 

3 

3 

2 

2-3 

3 

I 

2    : 

1 

1 

1-2 

2-1  i 

1—2 

1—2  i 

1-2 

2-3 

3 

3 

- 

4      1 

3 

3 

2 

2 

3 

2.   1 

1 

1 

1-2 

2-1  : 

1-2 

1-2   : 

1-2 

2-3 

104 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestuffs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


On  a  biclirome  and  tartar 
mordant  in  a  bath  corrected 
with  acetic  acid;  the  goods 
entered  at  85"  F,  the 
bath  heated  slowly  to  the 
boil,  and  kept  boiling  for 
1  '/» — 2  '/«  hours.  For  goods 
equalising  with  difficulty  it 
is  advisable  to  add  the  acetic 
acid  later. 


On  a  bichronic  and  tartar 
mordant,  or  bichronic  lactic 
acid  and  sulphuric  acid  mord- 
ant ;  the  goods  are  entered 
at  120°  K.,  and  the  bath 
brought  to  the  boil.  Acetic 
acid  is  added,  and  the  bath 
liept  boiling  for   1  '/«  hours. 


The  fastest  substitute  for  indigo  blue.  Useii 
largely  on  loosf  wool,  slubbing  and  on  all  kinds 
of  yarns  as  self  colour  or  in  combination 
with  other  alizarine  colours  for  mixed  and 
f.incy  shadi-s  as  a  blue  fast  to  milling,  acid 
and  wearing.   In  piivf   dvring  for  the  same 

purposes. 
Other  brands  aie : 

Alizarine  Blue  D  N  paste, 

,.  „     R  R  paste, 

„     942  and 

Alizarine  Darkbluc  SV  ]Mstc. 

J'he   Alizarine   Blues   show    a   yellow    nitric 

.acid  test,    similar  to  the  nitric    acid    test  of 

indigo. 


Does  not  equal  .Mizarine  Blue  as  regards 
fastness  to  light,  acid  antl  carbonising.  A 
cheap  blue,  especially  suitable  for  piece 
goods  on  account  of  its  satisfactory  pene- 
tration. 


Alizarine  and  Mordant  Dyestuffs. 


105 


bo 

n 

3 

W 

Affinity  for 

o 

C  J3 
UJQh 

o 
in  £ 

en   C 

O   60 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

CO 

o 

"  bfi 
0)   c 

si 

1^ 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silii 

Fastn 
Li 

Fastn 
Stea 

■" -P 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda 

Quick 
Lime 

4 

3 

3 

2 

2 

1 

1 

1 

1-2 

1-2 

2 

1 

2 

1 

2 

3 

- 

4 

3 

3 

2 

2 

I 

1 

1 

1-2 

1—2 

2 

1 

2 

1 

2 

3     ' 

4 

3 

3 

2 

2 

I 

1 

1 

1-2 

1-2 

2 

1 

2 

1 

2 

3 

4 

3 

3 

2 

2 

1 

1 

1 

1—2 

1—2 

2 

1 

2 

1 

2 

1 
1 

3 

!  - 

4 

i      3 

.1 

2 

2 

1 

1      • 

1 

1—2 

1-2 

2 

1 

2 

1 

2 

3 

! 

4 

i      3 

3 

2 

2 

1 

1 

1 

1-2 

1-2 

2 

1-2 

2 

1—2 

2 

3 

- 

4 

;      3 

3 

2-1 

2 

2-3 

1 

1-2 

2-1 

1-2 

2 

2 

2-3 

2 

3-2 

3 

7a  le 


106 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  Dyestuffs  used  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Alizarine  Blue  SRW  paste 


Alizarine  Blue  SRX  paste 


On  a  bichrome  and  tartar 
mordant  in  a  bath  corrected 
with  acetic  acid ;  the  gooils 
arc  entered  at  70 — 85°  1""., 
the  bath  lieated  slowly  to 
140°  I-".,  and  kept  at  this 
tcmpcraline  until  almost  ex- 
hausted, then  heated  to  the 
boil,  and  kept  boiling  for 
I'/j  houi^i. 


Bisulphite  compounds  of  the  brands  specified 
on  the  jirevious  page,  and  equal  to  these 
as  regards  their  fastness  properties.  Owing 
to  their  solubility  they  are  suitable  for  machine 
dyeing;  largely  used  on  slubbing  and  piecf 
goods.    Similar  brands  are : 

Alizarine  lilue  SI)  po-wder, 
„      SBM'  pastf, 
„      SR  paste, 
„      SRW  powder, 
„      SBR  paste, 
,,  „      S2R  paste, 

„  „      SRX  pou'der, 

„      SBM  powder, 
„  ,,      SR  powder, 

„      SBR  powder. 


On  a  bichrome  and  tartar 
or  bichrome,  lactic  acid  and 
sulpluiric  acid  mordant,  in 
a  neutral  bath;  goods  equa- 
lising with  difficulty  require 
an  addition  of  acetate  of 
ammonia.  The  bath  is  grad- 
ually brought  to  the  boil  and 
boiled  for  I'/j  hours.  In 
order  to  improve  the  fastness 
to  milling,  0,25— 0,5°/o  bi- 
chronie  are  finally  added. 
Also  used  as  a  one  bath 
colour  viz  developed  with 
bichrome. 


Yield  cheaper  and  faster  shades  than  Anthrol 
Blue;  scarcely  inferior  in  fastness  to  Aliz- 
arine Blue.  On  account  of  their  solubility 
and  equalising  property  used  in  all  branches 
of  fast  wool  dyeing,  for  loose  material  on 
slubbing  in  mechanical  machines,  on  yarns 
and  piece  goods  for  the  pro<iuction  of  cheaj) 
and  fast  blues;  also  for  mixed  and  fancy 
shades  in  combination  with  other  mordant 
colours ;  for  the  latter  purposes  Acid  Aliz- 
arine Blueblack  3B  can  be  used  equally 
successfully.  For  application  as  one  batli 
colours  see  page  88, 


Dyed  on  a  bichiome  and  tartar 
hiordant  in  a  bath  corrected 
with  acetic  acid;  the  goods 
are  entered  at  85—104°  1""., 
the  bath  heated  to  the  boil 
;md  kepi  boiling  for  1  — I'/j 
hours. 


On  loose  wool,  slubbing,  all  kinds  of  yarns 
and  piece  goods,  especially  on  suitings,  in 
combination  with  alizariiic  dyestuffs;  fre- 
quently in  combination  with  logwood  for 
cheap  navy  and    darkblues    fast    to    millinj;. 


Alizarine  and  Mordant  DyestufFs. 


107 


Affinity  for 

o 
tn  c 

o 
to 

2,c 

c  « 
a- 

o  bo 

Id 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

u 

o 
"  bo 

B 
la 

In 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Silk 

Change 

:  Bleeding 

Change 

:Bleedio| 

Change 

:Blccding 

Soda 

;   Quick 

- 

4 

4 

3 

3-2 

2 

2 

1 

1 

1 

1-2 

2 

1    1 

2 

1        1 

2 

;            i 

:                   1 

3 

- 

3 

3-2 

2 

2 

1 

1 

1 

1-2 

2 

1 

2 

1 

2 

3 

- 

4 

3 

3—2 

2 

2 

1 

1 

1 

1-2 

2 

1 

2 

1 

2 

3     \ 

- 

1 

2 

1-2 

1—2 

1 

2—1 

1-2 

2—1 

3 

1-2 

2-1 

1—2 

2—1 

1—2  '' 

2     I 

- 

1 

2 

1—2 

1—2 

1-2 

2-1 

1—2 

2 

3 

1-2 

2 

1-2 

2-1 

2—1 

2-3 

- 

4 

8 

2 

3 

1 

3-4 

2-3 

1 

1 

1-2 

1 

1—2 

1      j  1-2 

2 

- 

4 

3 

2-3 

3 

1 

3-4 

2-3 

1 

1 

1-2 

1 

1-2 

1 
1 

1-2 

2     1 

108 


Tabulated  Survey  of  the  DyestufFs  used  in  ^"ool  Dyeing. 


Name  and  Shade 


Ceruleine  A  paste 


Ceruleine  S 


Ceruleine  paste  SW 


Method  of  Dyeing 


Application 


Dyed  on  a  bichronic  and 
tartar  mordant ;  the  goods 
are  entered  cold,  the  bath 
heated  slowly  to  the  boil  and 
kept  boiling  for  I'/s— 2'/» 
hours,  whilst  gradually  ad- 
ding acetic  acid. 


On  loose  -.ivo/,  slubbing  and  yarns,  less 
frequently  on  /iirce  gvods,  as  self  colour 
and  in  combinalion  with  other  alizarine 
dycstuffs  for  mixed  and  fancy  shades  fast  to 
milling ;  also  for  printing  slubbing.  Crrii- 
Uitif  cent,  and  .V  coru.  are  used  for  the 
same  purjx>ses. 


Ceruleine  HWR 


On  a  bichromc  and  tartar 
or  bichrome,  lactic  add  and 
sulphiunc  acid  mordant;  the 
dycbath  is  a>rrectcd  with 
acetic  acid,  the  goods  entered 
at  86-1040  ].-  the  Kith 
heated  to  the  boil,  kept 
boiling  for  I'/i  hours  whilst 
adding  acetic  add. 


Employctl  in  the  same  manner  as  the  fore- 
going brands ;  stronger  .icid  mordants  are 
pcnuissible.  Bluir  and  brighter  than  the 
fonner.  Ceruleine  paste  D  and  l!R  paste 
possess  the  same  properties.  •  Suitable  also 
OS  a  chrome  developing  colour.  Compare 
IKige  90. 


|l  Dyed  on  a  bichromc  .ind 
'  tartar  mordant  with  acetic 
acid ;  the  g<K>ds  are  entered 
at  86"  1"'.,  the  balh  healed 
slowly  to  the  iKiil,  and  kept 
boiling    for    2— 2'/i    hours. 


Alone     or     in    combinalion     with    alizarine 

dycstuffs  on  loose  -eool,  slubbing,  yarn,  and 

pieee  gooJs. 


In     hydrosulpliilr      or      the 
various  feriHrntation  vats. 


Of  the  same  fastness  as  Indigo  MLB,  but 
of  a  purer,  redder  shade.  Used  in  fast  wool 
dyeing  on  /ii<i.«-  ;,v«i/,  slubbing,  yarn  and 
pieee  g,u>Js  for  the  production  of  brij;ht 
blue  sh.ides  alone  or  in  combination  with 
Indigo  MI.B.  I„-irgely  employed  for  the 
m.-tnufacture  of    specially    fine    faced   cloths. 


In     hydrosulphile      or      ihc 
various  fcnncntation  vals. 


In  fast  wool  dyeing  on  loose  71V0I,  slubbing, 
'.mrsted  yarn  and  pieee  goods  for  the  pro- 
duction of  shades  ranging  from  the  lightest 
to  the  darkest  blue.  >!\s  fast  blue  ground  for 
darkblue,  olive,  green,  drab  etc.  shades  in 
combination  with  other  dycstuffs.  The 
various  commerdal  brands  are  described  on 
page  151. 


Alizarine  and  Mordant  DyestufFs. 


109 


Affinity  for 

o       ! 
■"  be 

o 

2., 

V  c 

C    M 

o  bO 
■"  c 

Si 

Fastness  to 
Stoving 

o 

in   ^ 
in  u 

c  « 

o 

1^ 

Fastness  to 
Soda 

Fastness  to 
Milling 

Fastness  to 
Alkalies 

Cotton 

Sillc 

Fastn 
Rub 

Fastn 
Li 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Change 

Bleeding 

Soda 

Quick 

- 

4 

3 

3 

2 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

I 

1 

1-2 

2 

1 

2 

1 

3 

3 

- 

4 

3 

3 

2 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

1 

1-2 

2 

1 

2 

1 

3 

3 

- 

4 

8 

3 

2 

2 

1-2 

1-2 

1 

1 

1-2 

2 

1 

2 

1 

3 

3 

i 
1 

4 

3 

4 

2-3 

1 

2 

1-2 

1 

1-2 

2 

1-2 

2 

1 

2 

1-2 

2     ! 

j 
j 

- 

4 

3 

3-4 

3-2 

2 

2 

2-3 

2 

1-2 

2 

2 

1-2 

2 

1-2 

3 

1 
2-3 

4 

4 

3—4 

1 

2-1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1-2 

1 

1    . 

1-2 

1 

1 

1     ' 

1 

4 

4 

3-4 

1 

2-1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1-2 

1 

1 

1-2 

1 

1 

i 
1 

Part  II. 


The  Methods  generally  employed  in  Wool  Dyeing. 


-- a@c=— 


r  or  almost  all  artificial  dyestufts  which  are  on  the  market,  the  wool  fibre  has  an 
affinity  which  becomes  apparent  as  coloured  effect  when  wool  is  dipped  into  solutions  of  the 
dyestuffs  in  water  or  other  solvents. 

This  affinity,  however,  changes  with  the  different  chemical  composition  of  the  many 
dyestuffs,  and  consequently,  the  conditions  also  vary  under  which  the  union  of  the  dyestuffs 
with  the  wool  fibre  is  best  effected;  in  most  cases  the  dyestuff  solutions  are  heated  for  a 
longer  or  shorter  time,  and  tlie  assistance  of  other  chemical  substances,  of  mordants  and 
auxiliary  mordants  is  necessary,  m  order  to  procure  the  best  possible  coloured  effect  of  the 
various  dyestuffs  upon  the  wool. 

In  accordance  with  the  nature  of  the  colour,  the  dyeing  methods  differ,  and  the  additions 
to  the  dyebath  vary.  In  the  following  pages  we  propose  to  describe  the  methods  generallj' 
adopted  in  wool  dyeing,  and  employed  for  the  various  classes  of  dyestufts. 

In  discussing  cur  subject  we  shall  closely  follow  the  division  carried  out  in  the  first 
part  of  this  work: 

1.  Dyeing  in  an  acid  bath.  In  this  section  all  dyestuffs  dyeing  wool  in  an  acid  bath 
will  be  dealt  with  in  regard  to  their  mode  of  dyeing.  They  include  the  great 
number  of  Acid  and  Azo  Dyestufts;  to  these,  however  (inasmuch  as  the  present 
work  only  takes  the  dyeing  of  all  wool  goods  into,  consideration)  certain  Dianil 
Dyestuffs  are  so  nearly  allied,  both  as  regards  chemical  composition  and  mode  of 
application,  that  their  inclusion  seems  justified.  Looked  at  from  the  chemical  point 
of  view,  the  dyestuffs  which  are  comprised  in  this  group,  represent  sulphonic  acids 
of  very  many  different  classes  of  colours  —  azo- dyestuffs,  nitro- dyestuffs,  tri- 
phenylmethan- dyestufts,  anthraquinone- dyestuffs,  induline- dyestuffs  etc.  —  which,  by 
means  of  their  one  or  more  sulpho- groups,  are  capable  of  uniting  in  an  acid  bath 
with  the  wool  substance  (reacting  as  a  base)  into  dyed  combinations  of  a  presumably 
salt- like  nature.  Naturally  their  mode  of  application  fluctuates  between  relatively 
wide   limits,    according   to  acidity,    molecular   size   and   composition   of  the  dyestufts. 

2.  Dyeing  in  an  alkaline  bath.  This  method  of  dyeing  must  be  looked  upon  as  a 
variation  of  the  dyeing  in  an  acid  bath,  and  it  is  to  be  applied  to  the  group  of 
Alkali  Blues.  Although  these  colours  belong  chemically  to  the  dyestuffs  classed 
under  group  I,  their  free  colour  acids,  contrary  to  those  of  the  other  acid  dyestufts, 
are  so  little  soluble  in  an  ordinary  acid  dye  bath,  that  it  is  necessary  to  resort  to  a 
certain  device:  they  are  dyed  in  the  form  of  their  easily  soluble  alkali  salts,  and  t'le 
shade  afterwards  developed  by  treating  with  acid. 

3.  Dyeing  in  an  aeetie  aeid  bath  is  the  method  employed  for  Resorcine  Dyestufts, 
These,  contrary  to  the  previous  groups,  are  not  sulphonated,  but  as  they  are  derived 
from  resorcine,  they  possess  a  weak  acid  character,  which  enables  them  to  form 
salts  with  basic  substances,  and  consequently,  also  with  the  wool  fibre.  The  colour 
acids  of  the  resorcine  dyestuffs,  however,  are  little  soluble  in  the  presence  of  stronger 
acids,  so  that  it  is  necessary  to  keep  them  in  solution,  and  apply  them  in  dyeing  by 
means  of  the  relatively  weak  acetic  acid. 

file 


114  General  methods  or  wool  dyeing. 

4.  Dyeing  in  a  neutral  bath:  This  method  is  employed  for  the  basic  colours,  which 
represent  the  oldest  artificial  dyestuffs.  With  acids  they  combine  to  salts,  and  in 
this  form  they  are  placed  upon  the  market  as  soluble  products.  A  simultaneous 
application  of  basic  and  acid  dyestufls  is  therefore  as  a  rule,  impracticable,  owing 
to  a  mutual  compensation;  nor  is  the  dyeing  with  basic  colours  in  an  acid  bath 
practicable,  since  the  acid  would  attract  the  dyestuff  and  thus  prevent  the  wool  fibre 
from  being  dyed.  On  the  other  hand,  the  dyeing  of  the  wool  with  basic  dyestufls 
is  successfully  brought  about  in  a  neutral  bath,  whereby  a  most  satisfactory,  if  not 
energetic  union  of  the  dycstutV  base  with  the  wool  fibre  is  effected.  In  this  case  the 
latter  acts,  in  all  probability,  as  a  weak  acid. 

5.  Dyeing  in  an  acid  bath  and  developing  with  metal  salts:  1  he  dyestufi's  included 
in  this  group,  whose  most  important  members  are  the  Chrome  Developing  Dj'cstufis, 
correspond  in  their  chemical  composition  with  the  dyestufls  of  group  1.  Almost  all 
of  them  contain  in  their  molecule,  one  or  more  sulpho- groups  which  enable  them  to 
unite  direct  with  the  wool;  a  few  azo  dyestufls  only,  derived  from  Salicylic  acid, 
such  as  Alizarine  Yellow  WW G,  contain  no  sulpho-group,  but  a  so-called  carboxyl, 
which  is  equivalent  to  the  former  in  respect  of  promoting  solubility  and  the  formation 
of  salts.  All  the  dyestufls  in  this  group  possess  however,  a  second  characteristic 
feature;  owing  to  a  particular  grouping  ol  their  atoms  they  either  combine  with 
metal  salts  into  peculiar  salts  —  lakes  —  of  much  greater  fastness  than  their  acid 
dyed  shades;  or  they  change  into  more  stable  oxidation  products  under  the  influence 
of  oxidizing  agents;  or,  lastly  —  as  is  the  general  rule  —  they  react  in  both 
directions  when  treated  with  Bichronie  which  has  an  oxidizing,  and,  at  the  same 
time,  salt  forming  eflect;  so  that  the  final  results,  which  mostly  excel  in  their  great 
fastness,  contain  in  all  probability,  metal  lakes  of  oxidation  products  of  the  original 
dyestuffs. 

6.  Dyeing  upon  previously  mordanted  material :  This  application  refers  to  dyestuffs 
which  are  most  generally  derived  from  Alizarine.  They  are  mordant  dyestufls,  viz: 
they  are,  in  consequence  of  tlie  peculiar  grouping  of  their  atoms,  capable  of  forming 
characteristically  dyed  salts,  with  insoluble  metal  oxides  previously  deposited  on  the 
wool  fibre,  which  lakes  are  distinguished  for  great  fastness.  They  have  thus  a  close 
connection  with  those  dyestufls  of  group  5,  in  which  only  a  lake  formation  takes 
place.  To  apply  the  mordant  dycstufl's  in  the  same  manner  as  these  developing 
dyestufls,  however,  is  with  few  exceptions,  not  possible,  because  thej'  lack  the 
sulpho-group,  which  makes  the  dyestufls  soluble  in  an  acid  bath,  and  causes  their 
direct  affinity  for  the  wool  fibre;  furthermore,  their  free  colour  acids  are  so  insoluble 
in  acid,  that  they  would  only  be  very  superficially  fixed  on  the  fibre.  Only  by 
introducing- sulpho  or  carbo.xyl- groups,  is  the  acidity  of  these  mordant  colours,  and 
consequently  also  the  solubility  and  affinity  for  the  wool  fibre  sufficiently  enhanced, 
so  that  for  example  Alizarine  Red  1  WS  and  Acid  Alizarine  Blue  BB,  can  be  used 
as  developing  dyestufls  also. 

On  the  other  hand,  manj-  developing  dN'estufl's,  which  by  an  aftertreatment  with 
metal  salts  form  fast  lakes,  may  often  be  used  together  with  mordant  dyestufls;  in 
most  cases,  however,  a  final  addition  of  small  amounts  of  Bichronie  is  made,  in 
order  to  oxidize  the  chrome  lakes  of  the  dyestufls  completely,  and  perfect  their 
fastness.  This  combination  of  mordant  dyestufls  with  developing  dyestuffs  is  of 
great  practical  importance,  as  will  be  seen  later  on,  in  order  to  cheapen  the  pro- 
duction of  the  mordant  dyestufls. 

7.  Vat  Dyeing:  This  mode  of  application  is  characteristic  of  Indigo  and  its  derivatives: 
these  are  dyestufls  insoluble  in  the  usual  solvents,  and  their  employment  for  dyeing 
is  only  possible  by  changing  them  into  the  alkali  salts  of  their  leuco  compounds,  whereby 
they  become  soluble  in  water,  and  consequently  are  made  suitable  for  dyeing.  Their 
characteristic  application  stamps  all  these  dyestufls  as  belonging  to  one  separate  group. 


Stocking  and  dissolving  of  dyestulTs.  Hfj 


In   continuation   of  the  above  named  mctliods  of  dyeing,  tliere  will  follow  a  brief 
description  of  the 
s.   Methods  of  Altering  the  Properties  of  Wool,  which  are  occasionally  employed  in 
order  to  diminish  or  increase  the  affinity  of  the  fibre  for  one  or  the  other  groups  of 
dyestufts. 

Before    entering   into   detail   about   the   various   chapters,   we  will  briefly  refer  to 
the  storing  and  dissolving  of  the  dj'estufts. 

The  Storing  of  Dyestuffs. 

The  dyestuffs  used  in  wool  dyeing  are  put  on  the  market  either  in  the  form  of  powder 
or  of  paste. 

They  are  most  conveniently  stored  in  a  place  some  distance  apart  from  tli(.-  dye-house; 
the   store-room   ought   to  be  cool,  of  moderately  even  temperature,  and  protected  from  frost. 

No  steam  pipes  should  be  conducted  through,  or  employed  within  the  store-rooms,  as 
in  the  former  case,  paste  colours  might  be  dried  up,  and  in  the  latter  case,  those  in  powder 
form  might  be  affected  by  moisture. 

The  dyestufts  in  powder  must  be  stored  in  tins  or  kegs  and  kept  covered,  because 
some  of  them  are  liable  to  absorb  water  from  the  air,  and  to  cake  together  so  that  they  present 
difficulties  in  weighing  and  dissolving. 

Paste  colours  are  best  stored  away  from  the  dry  dyestufts;  the  casks  should  first  be 
covered  with  a  damp  cloth,  and  then  with  a  lid,  by  which  means  the  drying  up  of  the  pastes 
is  avoided.  As  many  paste  dyestufts  settle  more  or  less  when  standing  for  some  time,  they 
should  be  well  stirred  before  being  weighed,  in  order  to  ensure  equal  consistency,  and  con- 
sequently even  results  throughout  the  cask. 

Although  frost  is  not  detrimental  to  the  dyestuffs,  it  should  nevertheless  be  guarded 
against  as  much  as  possible  because  paste  colours  especially  arc  liable  to  desintegrate  on 
freezing,  and  in  thawing  a  deterioration  of  the  fine  distribution  of  the  colouring  substance  would 
take  place,  which  is  detrimental  to  the  productiveness  of  the  dyestuft".  Should  the  freezing 
of  paste  dyestufts  have  been  unavoidable,  the  thawing  must  be  carried  out  slowlj',  and  the 
dyestuff  well  stirred  before  use,  and  dissolved  with  particular  care. 

The  Dissolving  of  Dyestuffs. 

All  the  dyestufts  in  powder,  used  in  wool  dyeing,  are  soluble  in  water,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  Indigo.  They  are  dissolved  (those  named  below  excepted)  in  a  small  vessel,  by 
pouring  pure  boiling  water,  by  preference  condensed  water  —  which  is  available  in  every 
dyeworks  —  over  them.  It  is  advisable  to  convert  the  colour  into  a  paste  at  first,  with  a 
little  water  only,  and  then  to  add  more  water  whilst  stirring  constantlj',  until  a  complete  so- 
lution is  effected;  in  most  cases  the  ten  to  fifteen-fold  quantity  of  water,  as  compared  with  the 
amount  of  colour  used,  will  suffice. 

For  dissolving  the  dyestufts,  small  wooden  tubs,  or  better  still,  glazed  earthenware 
vessels  which  can  be  cleaned  quickl}^  are  suitable.  For  dyestufts  which  are  not  affected  by 
copper,  copper  vessels  —  being  unbreakable  —  are  also  serviceable. 

Acid  dyestufts  which  are  not  easily  soluble,  especially  Dianil  dyestuffs,  are  sometimes 
dissolved  with  a  small  addition  of  Soda;  but  it  is  better  to  dispense  with  it  if  possible,  in 
consideration  of  the  danger  to  the  wool  fibre  involved  in  its  use,  and  rather  to  effect  the  so- 
lution by  boiling. 

For  Basic  dyestufts,  which  must  not  be  dissolved  together  with  other  dyestufts,  an  addi- 
tion of  acetic  acid  is  advantageous;  the  best  results  are  obtained  by  first  making  the  dye- 
stuffs  into  a  paste  with  some  acetic  acid,  and  then  adding  the  hot  water. 

Some  basic  dyestuft's,  as  e.  g.  Auramine,  must  not  be  dissolved  in  boiling  water;  in 
fact  the  temperature  ought  not  to  exceed  101 — 122"  F. 

Paste  dyestuffs  are  mixed  with  hot  soft  water  and  dissolved  gradually. 


116 


General  method!)  of  wool  dyeing. 


The  dyestuflf  solutions  are  added  to  the  dyebath  through  a  filtering  cloth  or  a  liair  sieve; 
any  undissolved  dyestufT  particles  must  then  be  completely  dissolved  by  a  further  addition  of 
hot  water. 

In  order  to  save  time,  especially  when  using  acid  dyestuffs,  the  colour  is,  in  practice, 
often  boiled  up  in  the  dyebath  itself.  Although  generally  this  proceeding  cannot  be  ap- 
proved of,  as  there  is  always  the  danger  of  some  small  particles  of  dyestuff  remaining  un- 
dissolved and  floating  about  in  the  dyebath  still,  many  acid  and  chrome  developing  dyestuffs 
may  nevertheless  be  dissolved  in  the  acid  bath,  without  risk  of  making  stains.  The  following 
dyestuffs  are  peifectly  free  from  this  fault: 

Chinoline  Yellow  O,  Xaphtol  Yellow  S,  Flavazine  3GL,  Flavazine  T, 
Orange  G,  New  Coccine  O,  Nassovia  Scarlet  O,  Azo  Acid  Red  B,  oB,  Amido 
Naphtol  Red  G,  BB,  (iB,  Chromotrope  RR,  6B,  Victoria  Violet  4BS,4BSL,  8BS, 
Azo  Acid  Blue  B,  Naphtalene  Blue  B,  B  extra,  R,  Patent  Marine  Blue  LE,  Patent 
Blue  V,  N,  L,  LE,  Cyanine  B,  Naphtalene  Green  V. 

Generally,  however,  dyestuffs  ought  not  to  be  dissolved  in  the  acid  dj'ebath,  especially : 

Milling  Yellow  O,  Milling  Scarlet  4R  cone.  Fast  Red  O,  Roccelline  N,  Cloth  Red  O, 
Alphyl  Blue  Black  O,  OK,  Fast  Blue,  Fast  Blue  Black  O,  Nigrosine,  Fast  Acid  Violet,  Fast 
Acid  Blue  R,  Acid  Rosamine  A,  Milling  Blue  2R  extra.  Acid  Violet  R  cone,  new,  N,  5BF, 
Neutral  Violet  O,  Neutral  Blue  R,  3R,  Pure  Blue,  Cotton  Blue,  Opal  Blue,  Soluble  Blue,  Bleu 
de  Lj'on,  Blackley  Blue,  Guernsey  Blue,  Opal  Blue,  Cloth  Blue,  Full  Blue,  Navy  Blue,  Methyl 
Alkali  Blue,  Alkali  Blue,  Alkali  Violet,  Alizarine  Yellow  GGW,  Acid  Alizarine  Yellow  RC, 
Acid  Alizarine  Blue  WE,  Acid  Alizarine  Black  SE,  SET,  SN,  SNT,  Chrome  Black  B,  T,  2G, 
Alizarine  Brown,  Galleine  cone,  W  powder,  R  cone,  powder,  Ceruleine  cone.  BW  cone, 
BWR  cone. 

Contrary   to   the   general    rule,   viz    to   effect  the   solution    of  dyestufis   by  means  of  hot 
water,  tlie  following  products  are  only  to  be  dissolved  with  cold  water: 
Alizarine  Blue  SB,  SBW,  SR,  SRW,  SBR,  S2R,  SRX. 
Alizarine  Green  S. 
Ceruleine  paste  SW,  S,  cone. 


Comparative  strength  of  Paste 

Below  we  show  the   comparative    s 
paste  form  and  in  powder,  viz : 
part  Acid  Alizarine  Black  SE  powder 
„  „  „       SET  powder 

Alizarine  Yellow  GGW  powder 
RW 
„  Orange  powder 

„  Brown         „ 


Alizarine  Blue  SB,  SBW,  SR,  SBR  pdr. 


Galleine  cone. 

Ceruleine  cone. 

„  S  cone. 

Ceruleine  BWR 
Indigo  MLB  powder 


and  corresponding  Powder  Dyestuffs. 

trengths   usually   existing    between   the   colours  in 


—  about  .T  parts  Acid  Alizarine  Black  SE  paste 

—  „      3.3  „  „  „  „     SET  paste 
=  5  parts  Alizarine  Yellow  GGW  paste 
^5      „      Alizarine  Yellow  RW  paste 

=  5.3    „      Alizarine  Orange  16  "/o 
=  ■*      „  „  „         20  "/o 

—  4      „      Alizarine  Brown  20°/o 
-^  -       „  ,,  '.,         40"/o 

=  3      „  Alizarine  Blue  SB,SBW,SR,  SBR  paste 

—  about  2.25  parts  Alizarine  Blue  A,  F,  R,  RR, 

DN,  DNW  paste 
=^  about  4.5  parts  Alizarine  Blue  B,  (142  paste 
=  10  parts  Galleine  paste  A,  paste  R 
=^  about  6  parts  Galleine  paste  R  double 
=  about  7.5  parts  Ceruleine  paste  A 
=  about  6  parts  Ceruleine  paste  SW 
=  10  parts  Ceruleine  paste  B. 
=  5        „      Indigo  MLB  paste 
=  5        „      Indigo  MLB/Vat  1 
=  2        „      Indigo  MLL,V»'  paste. 


Dyeing  in  an  Acid  balh.  117 


I.    Dyeing  in  an  Acid  bath. 

The  most  important,  and  in  wool  dyeing,  most  generally  employed  method,  is  that  of 
dyeing  in  an  acid  bath.  Its  application  is  simple,  and  the  greatest  number  of  wool  dyestiifis, 
namely,  all  Acid  and  Azo  dyestuffs,  inclusive  of  the  Dianil  dyestuflfs,  can  be  dyed  by  it; 
moreover,  of  all  dyeing  methods  it  is  least  injurious  to. the  wool  fibre. 

The  principle  of  dyeing  in  an  acid  bath,  consists  in  the  treatment  of  the  goods  with 
the  dyestuff  solution  at  the  boil,  together  with  acids  or  acid  salts.  The  chemical  reaction 
which  takes  place,  is  probably  this:  the  wool  fibre  acting  as  a  base,  turns  to  a  salt-like  compound 
with  the  colour  acids  which  are  liberated  by  this  acid  dyeing  process.  This  salt  formation 
is  assisted  by  heating,  and  is  completed  by  boiling  the  wool  fibre  in  the  dyebath  for  a  longer 
or  shorter  period  as  the  case  requires;  it  is,  however,  very  rarely  a  quantitative  one,  and  usually 
remains  stationary  when  a  state  of  equilibrium,  difi'erent  in  each  case,  is  arrived  at,  which 
depends  partly  upon  the  chemical  affinity  nf  the  dyestuflf  to  the  wool  fibre ;  partly  upon  its  solubility. 

The  typical  dyeing  process,  when  dyeing  in  an  acid  bath,  is: 

The  dyebath  is  prepared  with  the  necessary  amount  of  dyestuff  (in  solution) 
to  which  are  added  lO^/o  Glauber's  Salt  and  47o  Sulphuric  Acid  or  lO^/o  Tartar  Sub- 
stitute; the  material  is  entered  at  140—1.58°  F,  the  bath  heated  to  the  boil  witliin 
'/i — 'li  hour,  and  boiling  continued  for  ^li—VI«  hours. 

According  to  the  nature  of  the  animal  fibre  which  is  to  be  dyed,  and  to  the  character 
and  properties  of  the  dj'estuffs  used,  certain  modifications  of  the  above  mentioned  normal 
method  are  not  only  permissible,  but  often  necessary  in  order  to  produce  good  results.  The 
first  requirement,  apart  from  the  demands  for  fastness  varying  in  the  different  branches  of  the 
industry  is,  that  the  goods  are  evenly  and  thoroughly  dyed  to  the  desired  siiade,  and  that 
they  are  free  from  stains  and  irregularities  in  appearance.  Only  in  rare  cases  a  thorough  pe- 
netration is  not  so  essential  (certain  oriental  cloths  and  black  hat  bodies). 

Equalizing  depends  —  apart  from  the  careful  and  accurate  preparation  of  the  goods,  to 
'which  we  shall  refer  in  greater  detail  in  part  III,  when  discussing  the  application  of  the 
dyestuffs  in  various  branches  of  the  industrj-  —  in  the  first  place,  on  the  manner  in  which 
the  dyeing  process  is  carried  out. 

As  the  causes  of  uneven  results  of  dyed  goods  dift'er,  so  also  the  irregularities  them- 
selves vary: 

1.  Spots  and  colour  stains  are  caused  by  small  undissolved  dyestuff  particles  which 
are  riiechanically  precipitated  on  the  cloth,  and  can  be  detected  as  such,  by  being 
rubbed  with  white  linen  etc. 

2.  Cloudiness  and  general  unevenness:  piece  goods  show  darker  and  lighter 
places  and  creases;  yarns  appear  streaky;  sometimes  also  yarns  and  pieces  are  lighter 
inside  than  outside;  and  where  the  yarn  is  tied,  and  at  the  cross  cuts  of  firmly  woven, 
pieces  light  places  are  to  be  seen.  All  these  faults  are  caused  by  insufficient  pene- 
tration. 

3.  Some  pieces  appear  at  the  first  glance  to  be  dyed  evenlj',  but  on  closer  examina- 
tion are  mottled  and  knittery,  i.  e.  each  separate  wool  fibre  appears  in  itself  unequally 
dyed,  in  such  a  manner  that  the  staple  is  dyed  darker  or  to  another  shade  than 
the  tips. 

The  two  first  named  irregularities  —  provided  they  are  not  produced  by  defective 
preparation  of  the  goods,  —  can  be  avoided  by  a  suitable  change  of  the  dyeing  method, 
though  they  are,  in  the  first  place,  caused  by  the  dyestufts  used.  The  third  kind  of  unevenness 
the  ''knitteriness"  is  chiefly  to  be  attributed  to  the  nature  of  the  dyestufls,  and  although  it 
may  also  be  more  or  less  mitigated  by  a  change  of  the  mode  of  dyeing,  still  it  is  unavoid- 
able in  some  cases.  Certain  goods  are  particularly  subject  to  coming  up  "knittery"  owing  to 
the  quality  of  the  wools  employed,  or  to  the  texture  of  the  fabric,  and  this  drawback  can  only 
be  avoided  by  using  dyestufls  which  do  not  dye  knittery  on  these  goods. 


118  General  methods  of  wool  dyeing. 


There  may,  however,  be  instances  where  the  knittery  effect  is  neither  due  to  the  na- 
ture of  the  dyestuffs  used,  nor  to  the  dyeing  process.  If  the  blending  of  the  wools  is  faultily 
carried  out,  e.  g.  if  very  coarse  and  very  fine  wools  arc  mixed,  or  fleece  wools  added,  knittery 
results  are  liable  to  occur,  despite  the  employment  of  the  best  equalizing  dyestuffs. 

Colour  spots  appear  when  the  dyestuffs  or  their  colour  acids  are  insoluble,  or  so  little 
soluble  in  the  acid  bath,  that  they  become  resinous  or  sticky  on  being  heated,  —  cake  to- 
gether and  attach  themselves  to  the  goods. 

This  drawback  can  mostly  be  avoided  by  carefully  dissolving  the  dyestuffs.  It  is  abso- 
lutely necessary  to  filter  the  solutions,  and  also  very  advantageous  to  add  these  solutions  to 
the  dyebath  gradually. 

In  no  case  whatever  must  the  acid  dyebath  itself  be  used  for  dissolving  these  dyestuffs, 
nor  may  the  latter  be  put  direct  into  the  liquid  in  powder  form.  The  colour  particles  would 
thus  very  easily  cake  together  and  in  this  state  adhere  to  the  goods,  whilst  it  is  highly  de- 
sirable that  the  colour  acids  of  these  dyestuffs  be  distributed  most  evenly,  arid  in  as  diluted 
a  form  as  possible  throughout  the  whole  dyebath,  so  that  the  separate  particles  have  no  op- 
portunity to  unite,  but  gradually  dissolve  in  the  liquid. 

As  the  safest  means  of  preventing  the  precipitation  of  colour  specks,  and  the  formation 
of  stains,  a  slight  change  of  the  normal  dyeing  method  is  to  be  recommended : 

The  goods  are  first  boiled  with  the  dyestuff  alone,  or  with  Glauber's  Salt;  after  '/< — 'i 
hour  the  sulphuric  acid  or  tartar  substitute  is  added,  either  in  one  addition  or  in  several 
portions  and  then  the  dyeing  operation  is  carried  out  In  the  usual  manner. 

A  special  case  of  the  formation  of  stains  may  here  be  pointed  out ;  it  refers  to  dye- 
stuffs  which  are  not  easilj'  soluble,  or  liable  to  form  spots.  In  making  up  a  new  bath  and 
preparing  the  dyeliquid  at  the  usual  temperature  with  Glauber's  salt,  sulphuric  acid,  and  the 
carefully  dissolved  dyestuff,  the  dye  acid  will  nevertheless  sometimes  precipitate.  If  the 
dyebath  is  then  gradually  heated  to  the  boil,  after  the  goods  have  been  entered,  it  may  occur 
that  the  carbonic  acid  contained  in  the  water,  rises  in  small  bubbles  to  the  surface,  and  carries 
with  it  particles  of  the  colour  acid,  which  cake  together  in  the  form  of  sticky  froth  and  adhere 
to  the  material  as  dyespots.  This  defect,  which,  as  mentioned,  occurs  only  in  new  baths  and 
is  the  result  of  particular  conditions  of  the  water,  can  best  be  counteracted  by  changing  the 
usual  dyeing  method  as  follows : 

The  bath  is  prepared  with  Glauber's  Salt  and  sulphuric  acid,  and  the  dyestuff"  solution 
added  after  boiling.  The  goods  are  then  entered  at  the  boil,  and  the  dyeing  operation  finished 
in  the  usual  manner. 

The  fact  that,  contrary  to  expectation,  certain  dyestuffs  although  properly  dissolved  do 
not  equalize  well  when  dyeing  weft  yarn,  zephyr  yarn,  and  carpet  yarn  in  a  new  bath  is  pro- 
bably to  be  attributed  to  the  same  cause;  but  the  same  dyestuffs  equalize  without  dilTiculty  if 
the  bath,  together  with  the  requisite  quantities  of  dyestuff"  be  boiled  up  before  dyeing. 

Cloudiness,  transverse  or  longitudinal  streaks,  and  insullioient  penetration 
occur  —  apart  from  the  material  not  being  sufficiently  scoured  or  prepared,  the  manipulation 
being  defective,  or  the  dye  vessels  not  properly  constructed  —  when  the  dyestufl's  are  too 
rapidly,  and  consequently  unevenly  absorbed,  and  thus  conditions  prevail  which  are  not 
conducive  to  balancing  excess  or  deficiency  of  the  dyestuff.  This  tendency  exhibited  by 
certain  dyestuffs,  to  rush  so  quickly  on  to  tlie  fibre  that  the  darker  and  lighter  parts  of  the 
dyed  material  cannot  be  equalized  by  continuous  boiling,  is  duo  mainly  to  the  chemical  nature 
and  constitution  of  the  dyestuffs.  When,  e.  g.  the  affinity  of,  a  particular  colour  acid  for  the 
wool  fibre  is  verj'  great,  it  unites  at  once  with  those  portions  ol  the  wool  with  which  it 
comes  Into  contact  first,  and  there  becomes  so  firmly  fixed  that  it  is  not  possible  to  distribute 
it  evenly. 

In  these  cases  the  following  remedies  are  available: 

1.  Old  dye  baths,  I.  e.  dyeliquids  which  have  already  been  used  several  times  over 
for  dyeing.    It  is   an   acknowledged  fact  and  proved  by  practice,  that  it  is  possible  to  obtain 


Dyeing  in  an  Acid  bath.  119 


much  more  level  results  in  old  baths  than  in  fresh  ones.  The  cause,  however,  has  not  yet 
been  satisfactorily  explained;  it  is  probable  that  the  accumulation  of  Glauber's  Salt  in  old 
baths,  plays  an  important  part,  and  promotes  level  dyeing,  but  it  would  appear  as  though 
other  influences,  at  present  unknown,  were  at  work. 

2.  Increase  of  Glauber's  Salt.  The  Glauber's  Salt  employed  when  dyeing  in  an 
acid  bath,  performs  a  very  important  function:  it  regulates  the  equal  distribution  of  the 
dyestuffs  by  moderating  the  action  of  the  sulphuric  acid  which  liberates  the  colour  acid,  and 
induces  and  accelerates  its  attraction  by  the  fibre;  it  also  retains  a  portion  of  the  dyestuflf  in 
the  bath  and  retards  its  absorption.  Moreover,  it  exercises  a  solvent  action  on  the  particles 
of  the  dyestnff  which  are  already  fixed,  abstracts  them  again  from  those  parts  of  the  wool 
which  initially  took  up  a  surplus  of  colouring  matter;  this  surplus  is  thus  returned  to  the 
bath,  and  affords  those  portions  which  first  took  up  too  little  colouring  matter,  an  opportunity 
of  gradually  getting  darker.  An  increased  amount  of  Glauber's  Salt  it  advantageous  for  light 
shades,  in  new  baths,  and  where  the  dyestuffs  equalize  with  difficult}-;  further,  in  the  case  of 
thick,  clo5elj'  woven  textures  and  heavilj'  milled  goods,  in  order  to  d\-e  them  well  through; 
indeed,  whenever  the  results  appear  irregular,  it  may  be  used  as  an  auxiliarj'  addition. 

As  a  typical  instance  for  the  employment  of  increased  quantities  of  Glauber's  Salt,  we  may 
quote  the  method  usually  applied  to  the  Azo  Acid  Black  L  brands: 

The  dyebath  is  prepared  with  100°/o  Glauber's  Salt  (which  amount  is  still 
further  increased  for  goods  which  do  not  dye  through  easily,  and  for  hard 
twisted  yarns)  and  4°/o  sulphuric  acid  or  proportionately  large  quantities  of 
tartar  substitute;  the  goods  are  entered  at  140  —  158"  F,  the  bath  heated  to  the 
boil  and  kept  boiling  for  ^/4  — IVa  hours.  If  this  bath  is  used  over  again,  it  is 
sufficient  to  add  20''/o,  and  eventually  10%  Glauber's  Salt,  or  the  corresponding 
quantities  of  tartar  substitute,  whereas  the  amount  of  acid  remains  the  same 
in  old  and  in  new  baths. 

:!.  Decrease  of  acid  and  the  employment  of  weaker  acids.  The  sulphuric  acid 
generally  employed  liberates  the  colour  acid  of  the  dyestuft",  which  is  contained  in  the  form  of 
a  soda  or  lime  salt,  and  thus  permits  the  attraction  of  the  colouring  matter,  i.  e.  the  union  of 
the  colour  acid  with  the  wool.  This  takes  place  all  the  more  rapidly,  the  more  completely 
the  colour  acid  is  set  at  liberty;  and,  on  the  other  hand,  the  more  slowly  the  weaker  acid 
the  bath  contains.  For  dyestuffs  which  have  a  great  affinity  for  the  wool  fibre  and  are  for 
this  reason  apt  to  yield  uneven  results,  the  amount  of  sulphuric  acid  should  be  diminished, 
and  instead  of  4"o  only  3  or  2"o  should  be  used,  or  else  weaker  acids  emplo^^ed,  such  as 
acetic,  formic,  oxalic  or  hydrochloric  acid.  Dj'estufts  best  dyed  with  a  decreased  amount  of 
acid  are,  e.  g  New  Coccine,  Victoria  Scarlet,  Victoria  Rubine,  Claret  Red,  the  bluer  brands 
of  Scarlet,  Naphtol  Red:  these  colours  may  be  dyed  with  the  addition  of  3%  sulphuric  acid; 
whilst  Soluble  Blue,  Pure>Blue,  Opal  Blue,  Light  Blue,  Cotton  Blue,  give  even  results  only  if 
the  amount  of  sulphuric  acid  is  reduced  to  2"„. 

The  dyebath  is  prepared  with  the  dyestuff  solution,  10—20",,  Glauber's 
Salt  and  2—3",,  sulphuric  acid;  the  goods  are  entered  at  a  medium  temperature, 
the  bath  slowly  heated  to  the  boil,  and  boiled  for  about  an  hour. 

Another  method  frequently  adopted,  especially  for  loose  material  and  yarns  which  are 
dyed  in  machines,  is  to  add  the  acid  to  the  bath  graduall\%  in  small  portions,  so  that  the 
colour  acids  are  slowly  liberated  and  attracted  by  the  wool,  by  degrees.  Or  again,  many 
dyestuff"s  are  worked  initially  with  only  a  small  portion  of  a  weaker  acid,  such  as  acetic 
acid,  and  afterwards  the  stronger  acid,  such  as  sulphuric  acid  is  added.  This  method  is 
adopted  e.  g.  for  Amide  Naphtol  Black  and  Carbon  Black,  which  are  dyed  in  the  following 
manner : 


120  General  methods  of  wool  dyeing. 


The  bath  is  prepared  with  the  requisite  quantity  of  dyestuff,  20°,,  Glauber's 
Salt  and  3 " „  acetic  acid  or  1"„  sulphuric  acid;  the  goods  aie  entered  at  a 
medium  temperature  which  is  slowjj-  raised  to  the  boil  and  kept  boiling  for  ',1 
hour;  then  1— 2",o  sulphuric  acid  are  added  and  boiling  continued  for  another 
'/s  — 1  hour.  If  the  bath  is  not  yet  exhausted,  some  more  sulphuric  acid  is 
added. 

Still  another  method  employed  for  manj-  dyestuffs  is,  to  cause  the  acid  to  be  gradually 
generated  in  the  bath,  by  using  acetate,  o.xalate  or  sulphate  of  ammonia;  these  salts  gradually 
decompose  during  boiling,  the  ammonia  evaporates,  and  thus  the  bath  becomes  very  gradually 
acidified  and  causes  the  colouring  matter  to  be  slowly  taken  up  by  the  wool. 

In  order  to  exhaust  the  dj'e  bath  more  completely,  some  acetic  or  sulphuric  acid  is 
added  in  several  portions,  during  boiling,  if  necessary. 

This  modified  method,  which  may  be  regarded  as  the  mildest  form  of  acid  dyeing,  is 
eniploj'ed  for  dyestuffs  which  do  not  easily  equalize,  and  are  rapidly  attracted  by  the  fibre; 
it  is  adopted  e.  g.  when  dyeing  with  Fast  Blue,  Nigrosine  and  with  most  of  the  Dianil 
Dyestufls: 

The  dyebath  is  prepared  with  the  requisite  quantity  of  dyestuff,  10-2(i"„ 
Glauber's  Salt  and  5— ID",,,  acetate  of  ammonia;  the  goods  are  entered  at  a  low 
temperature,  which  is  raised  to  the  boil  within  '/s— '/<  hour,  and  boiling  contin- 
ued for  another  hour;  if  the  bath  is  not  exhausted,  2%  acetic  acid  are  added 
twice,  in  intervals  of  15  minutes,  or,  at  first,  2"o  acetic  acid  and  then  1  -2"., 
sulphuric  acid. 

4.  Entering  the  goods  at  a  low  temperature.  The  union  between  the  colouring 
matter  and  the  wool  fibre  takes  place  more  rapidlj-,  the  nearer  the  temperature  of  the  dyebath 
is  to  boiling  point;  if  therefore  dyestuffs  are  used  which  are  liable  to  produce  uneven  results, 
the  goods  are  entered  at  a  medium  temperature,  or  even  cold,  the  bath  is  heated  sbwly  to 
the  boil;  and  the  dyeing  process  completed  by  continuing  to  boil  as  long  as  is  necessary. 
By  this  gradual  raising  of  the  temperature  of  the  bath,  the  affinity  between  the  fibre  and  the 
colour  acid  conies  into  action  very  graduallj-,  so  that  all  parts  of  the  material  have  an  equal 
chance  of  attracting  dyestufls. 

The  larger  the  quantity  of  colouring  matter  used,  i.  e.  the  fuller  the  shade  required, 
the  more  likely  it  is  that  all  parts  of  the  material  will  be  dyed  evenly.  Pale  fancy  shades 
are  naturallj'  more  difficult  to  dye  evenly,  than  medium  and  dark  shades,  as  the  amount  of 
colouring  matter  presented  to  the  fibre  is  comparatively  small.  For  dark  shades  dyestufls 
which  do  not  equalize  well  may  be  used;  but  for  the  purpose  of  matching  at  the  boil,  and 
for  fancy  shades,  it  is  imperative  to  emploj-  only  the  most  level  dyeing  colours. 

Other  circumstances  and  working  conditions  being  equal,  the  tendency  to  dye  level 
depends  upon  the  nature  of  the  dyestufl'  itself;  hence  some  acid  colours  may  always  be 
spoken  of  as  level  dyeing  colours. 

As  a  guide  for  judging  this  property  of  the  various  colours,  we  refer  to  the  first 
column  of  the  fastness  tables  in  the  first  part  of  this  volume,  and  to  our  preliminary  rerharks 
upon  this  subject.  At  the  same  time,  we  must  again  point  out  that  if  a  dyestufl',  e.  g.  Milling 
Scarlet  4  R  cone,  is  marked  with  figure  ">  as  regards  equalizing,  it  by  no  means  signifies 
that  this  dyestuff  never  yields  even  results.  By  modifying  the  method  of  dj'eing,  it  is  quite 
possible  to  obtain  level  shades;  the  high  figure  merely  denotes  that  it  is  necessary  to  modify 
the  method  of  dj'eing  and  pay  special  attention  to  the  working. 

The  following  colours  are  dyed  in  an  acid  bath: 
Chinoline  Yellow  O,  extra,  cone.  Milling  Yellow  O. 

Napthol  Yellow  S,  SE,  SL.  Dianil  Pure  Yellow  HS. 

Flavazine  3  GL,  L,  S.  Dianil  Yellow  :i  G,  R,  RR. 

Flavazine  T.  Cresotine  Yellow  G. 


Dyeing  in  an  Acid  bath. 


V21 


Oxydlanil  Yellow  G,  O, 

Aurophenine  O,  cone. 

Fast  Yellow  O,  S. 

Azo  Yellow  O,  cone. 

Chrysoine  G,  R. 

Victoria  Yellow  O,  double,  cone,  cone.  D. 

Metanil  Yellow  extra. 

Dianil  Orange  N,  G. 

Naphtol  Red  O. 

Orange   No.  4,    G,  No.  2,  2  L,  No,  I,  R,  RR. 

Brilliant  Orange  G,  O,  R. 

Brilliant  Croceine  yellow  shade,  blue  shade, 

R,  B,  BB,  3  B,  5  B,  8  B. 
New  Coccine  O. 
Nassovia  Scarlet  O. 
Milling  Scarlet  4  RO,  4R  cone. 
Victoria  Scarlet  :!G,  2  G,  G,  R,  RR,  :^  R,  4R, 

5R,  6R. 
Scarlet    G,    R,    RR,    3R,   4R,    :>R,    GR,   B 

extra. 
Scarlet  6  R  crystals. 
Fast  Red  O,  S. 
Roccelline  N. 
Brilliant  Crimson  O,  B. 
Victoria  Rubine  O. 
Amido  Black  10  B,  10  BO,  8  B,  T. 
Amaranth  O. 

Claret  Red  G,  B,  R,  G  extra,  B  extra,  R 
extra,  O. 

Fast  Claret  Red  O. 

Naphtho  Rubine  O. 

Cloth  Red  O. 

Dianil  Red  R,  4  B,  6  B,  10  B. 

Delta  Purpurine  .5  B. 

Brilliant  Dianil  Red  R. 

Dianil   Fast  Red  PH. 

Dianil  Crimson  B,  G. 

Dianil  Claret  Red  G,  B. 

Dianil  Violet  H. 

Dianil  Brown  3  GO,  G,  2  G,  MH,  BD,  R, 
3R,  B,  D. 

Dianil  Fast  Brown  B,  R. 

Fast  Brown  O,  yellow  shade,  L. 

Azo  Brown  V. 

Azo  Acid   Brown  RO,  R  cone. 

Azo  Acid  Red  B,  5  B. 

Amido  Naphtol   Red  G,  BB,  G  B. 

Carbon    Black    B,    B    cone,   BD,    T,    3B,  E. 

Amido  Naphtol  Black  S,  G  B,  G  B  cone,  4  B, 
4  B  extra,  4  B  cone  ,  4  BH,  BX,  B  cone, 
RK,  N  cone. 

Fast    Dark   Blue    B    extra,  B  extra  cone,  R. 

Black  Blue  O. 


Fast   Blue   O  soluble  R,  3  R,  3R  extra,  D, 

G  extra,  5  B,  green  shade,  extra  green 

shade. 
Nigrosine  (Grey  blue)  No.  1,  No.  IV. 
Acid  Alizarine  Grey  G. 
Acid  Rosamine  A. 
Fast  Acid  Red  A. 
Fast   Acid    Violet  B,   R,  A  2  R,  RO,  A2RO, 

RL,  RBE,  RGE,  BE. 
Fast  Acid  Eosine  G,  G  extra. 
Fast  Acid  Ploxine  A,  A  extra. 
Fast  Acid  Magenta  G,  G  cone. 
Fast  Acid  Blue  R,  R  cone. 
Milling  Blue  2  R  extra. 
Azo  Acid  Carmine  B. 
Azo  Acid  Magenta  G,  B. 
Archil  Substitute  G. 
Chromotrope  RR,  BB,  6  B,  8  B,  10  B. 
Victoria  Violet  4  BS,  8  BS,  4  BSL. 
Azo  Acid   Blue  B,  3  BO,  3B  cone 
Naphtalene  Dark  Blue  G  cone,  EG  extra. 
Naphtalene  Blue   B,  B  extra,  BN  cone,  BH, 

D,   DN,   DN  extra,  V,  R,  LR,  J,  DL. 
Patent  Marine  Blue  LE,  V. 
Azo    Acid    Black   R,   B,   G,   3  BL,   BL,   GL, 

TL   cone,   3  BN,   TN,    3  BLOO,   4  BL 

extra,  3  BL  extra,  TL  extra,  KL  extra, 

KRL  extra. 
Alphyl  Blue  Black  O,  OK. 
Victoria  Blue  B,  R,  4R. 
Pure    Blue    O,    cone,    double   cone,   double 

cone  R. 
Opal  Blue  superior  soluble  in  water. 
China  Blue  R,  No.  1,  No.  2. 
Alizarine  Direct  Blue  B. 
Alizarine  Direct  Green  G. 
Red  YB,  Y,  Y2G. 

Rosazeine  B,  B  extra,  G,  G  extra,  O,  extra. 
Acid   Magenta   O,   B,  D,  G,  GG,  3  G,  extra, 

extra  B,  M,  N. 
Acid  Cerise  O,  II. 
Acid  Maroon  O. 
Maroon  S. 
Orseilline  R,  B. 
Acid   Violet  3  RA,  4RS,   3  RS,  I!,  R  cone, 

new,  N,  5  BF,  6  BL,  G  BN. 
Neutral  Violet  O. 
Neutral  Blue  R,  3  R. 
Cone    Cotton    Blue    RR,    R,    No.    I,   No.    2, 

No.  2  double. 
Cotton  Blue  extra,  OO. 
Cotton  Light  Blue  O  soluble  in  water. 
Methyl  Blue  for  Cotton  MLB. 
Imperial  Blue  O. 

8al<i 


122  General  methods  of  wool  dyeing. 


Navy  Blue  O.  Cyanine  B. 

Full  Blue  O.  Alizarine  Direct  Blue  K:iB,  EB. 

Cloth  Blue  O.  Alizarine  Direct  Violet  R. 

Purple  Blue  O.  Indigo  Substitute  B.  B  extra,  BS,  BS  extra, 

Laundry  Blue  O.  A  extra,  V  extra,  SS,  Wli,  K. 

Opal  Blue  reddish,  blue  shade,  green  shade.  Acid    Green    Gl,    O,    cone,    cone.    D,    M, 

Blue  red  shade,  blue  shade,  TB,  TBA,  TR.  «onc.  M. 

Bleu  de  Lyon  O,  R,  RR.  Acid  Green  solution,  5  times  cone 

Guernsey  Blue  O.  Naphtalene  Green  \',  cone. 

Soluble  Blue  RRR,  RR,  R,  SV,  TBA,  TBB.  Fast    Acid    Green    B,    BB   extra,   BB   extra 

Patent  Blue   A,  AF,  A  J  1,  AN,  K,  superior.  cone. 

extra,  N,  L,  LE,  V,  C,  B,  J  1,  J  2,  J  3.  Patent  Green  O,  V,  VS,  VN'S. 

EN,  VN,  J,  RB,  RBN. 


Dyeing  in  an  Alkaline  Halli.  123 


II.  Dyeing  in  an  Alkaline  Bath. 

The  method  of  dyeing  in  an  alkahne  bath  is  only  applicable  to  a  small  group  of 
dyestuffs,  the  Alkaline  Blues.  Although  from  a  chemical  standpoint  these  dyestufis  must  be 
classed  with  the  acid  dyestuffs,  they  cannot  be  fixed  satisfactorily  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
latter,  because  their  colour  acids  are  only  slightly  soluble  in  an  acid  bath,  so  that  the 
results  leave  a  great  deal  to  be  desired  as  regards  penetration  and  rubbing.  However,  the 
alkaline  blues  are  easily  soluble  in  the  form  of  their  alkaline  salts,  and  in  this  state  have  not 
only  great  affinity  for  the  wool-fibre,  but  dye  extremely  evenl}';  therefore  a  modification  of 
the  usual  acid  dyeing  method  is  resorted  to  for  fixing  them.  This  consists  in  first  dyeing  in 
an  alkaline  bath,  and  then  developing  the  colour  in  a  second  acidified  bath. 

The  following  is  the  dyeing  method  most  generally  employed: 

The  bath  is  prepared  with  .5—10",,  borax  and  the  requisite  amount  of 
dyestuff  dissolved  in  hot  water;  the  material  is  entered,  the  liquid  heated  to 
the  boil,  and  boiling  continued  for  ^/i— 1  hour.  The  goods  are  then  thoroughly 
rinsed,  and  then  taken  into  another  bath  containing  .i",,  sulphuric  acid,  in 
which  they  are  manipulated  for  ','4  hour  at  104— 1.58°  F.  Finally,  they  are  well 
rinsed. 

Silicate  of  Soda  (Waterglass)  or  soda  may  be  used  instead  of  borax  for  the  first  bath; 
soda  however  yields  rather  duller  shades.  In  order  to  increase  the  fastness  to  milling,  the 
second  bath  is  sometimes  prepared  with  alum  or  double  chloride  of  tin,  instead  of  sulphuric 
acid.  The  lower  the  temperature  of  the  developing  bath,  the  greener  is  the  final  shade;  if 
on  the  other  hand,  the  temperature  is  raised,  the  shades  will  turn  redder  in  tone. 

The  first  bath,  viz:  the  dyebath,  imparts  to  the  material  a  slight  pale  green  hue  only;  for 
this  reason  it  is  advisable  for  the  purpose  of  matching,  to  treat  small  patterns  with  acid  be- 
fore the  whole  of  the  goods  are  developed  in  the  acid  bath.  In  order  to  dye  to  pattern  accu- 
rately, it  is  possible  to  shade  the  goods  in  the  acid  bath  with  small  quantities  of  well  equaliz- 
ing dyestuffs,  such  as  Patent  Blue  N,  Acid  Violet  N,  6BN,  Rosazeine  B,  G. 

The  series  of  Alkaline  Blues  has  not  received  any  addition  for  some  years  past,  and 
their  employment  is  evidently  on  the  decline  in  wool  dyeing.  This  must  be  attributed  to  the 
fact  that  the  alkaline  blues  cannot  be  combined  easily  with  other  dyestuffs  owing  (1)  to  their 
peculiar  mode  of  dyeing  (2)  to  the  danger  of  the  alkaline  bath  impairing  the  wool  and  rendering 
the  material  brittle,  and  (3)  to  the  insufficient  fastness  of  the  colours  to  milling,  for  the  shades 
turn  considerably  lighter  when  washed  and  milled  with  alkalies. 

Moreover,  shades  formerly  only  obtainable  with  Alkaline  Blue,  can  now  be  produced  by 
means  of  other  dyestuffs,  e.  g.  with  Victoria  Blue,  which,  though  less  fast  to  light,  preserves 
the  material  more;  or  with  Patent  Blue  or  bright  Acid  Violets  which  are  considerably  faster, 
though  slightly  duller.  Nevertheless,  the  alkaline  blues  are  still  largely  used,  on  account  of 
their  fastness  to  light,  acid  and  stoving,  and  their  excellent  purity  of  shade. 

The  following  are  the  dyestuffs  put  upon  the  market  by  us  for  the  purposes  of  wool 
dyeing  in  an  alkaline  bath : 

Methyl  Alkaline  Blue  MLB 

Alkaline  Blue  7B,  6B,  oB,  4B,  3B,  2B,  red  shade,  B,  R,  R  cone,  RR 

Alkaline  Violet  O. 


134  General  mctliods  of  wool  dyeing. 


III.  Dyeing  in  an  Acetic  Acid  Bath. 

A  small  group  of  dyestuifs  are  the  Resorcine  Colours;  considered  chemically,  ihey  differ 
from  the  previously  described  dyestuffs  in  that  they  contain  no  sulpho  groups,  but  their  free 
colour  acids  have  neveitheless  a  great  affinity  for  the  wool  fibre,  although  they  are  only 
slightly  soluble  in  the  presence  of  free  mineral  acids. 

If,  therefore,  the  normal  method  of  dyeing  with  acid  dyestuffs  were  adopted  to  dye  them, 
viz :  with  Glauber's  Salt  and  sulphuric  acid,  the  results  would  be  uneven,  dull  and  badly  dyed 
through. 

It  is  therefore  advisable  to  dye  Resorcine  dyestuffs  with  the  addition  of  weak  acids. 
As  these  colours,  by  their  individual  chemical  composition,  form  a  group  by  themselves,  and 
are,  moreover,  used  exclusively  as  self  colours,  their  mode  of  dyeing  may  be  discussed  in  a 
separate  chapter,  although  it  closely  resembles  the  ordinary  method  of  dyeing  in  an  acid 
bath,  described  in  the  first  chapter. 

The  method  generally  followed  in  dyeing  Resorcine  Dyestuffs,  is  this: 

The  dyebath  is  prepared  with  10%  acetic  acid  12"  Tw.,  10%  acetate  of  soda 
and  the  d3'estuff  solution;  the  goods  are  entered  cold,  the  temperature  raised 
within  '/s  hour  to  176°  F.  and  the  dyeing  process  completed  at  the  same  temper- 
ature in  about  an  hour. 

Another  method  still  occasionally  employed,  is  the  following: 

The  goods  are  boiled  for  ',-  hour  with  5%  alum,  5%  tartar  and  b%  acetic 
acid  12°  Tw.,  the  bath  is  then  allowed  to  cool  down  to  about  122"  F,  the  dyestuff 
solution  added,  the  liquid  heated  again  to  the  boil,  and  kept  boiling  for 
'A-'/«  hour. 

In  both  cases  the  goods  must  not  be  entered  too  hot,  nor  the  bath  heated  too  quickly, 
so  as  to  prevent  the  goods  from  absorbing  the  colours  too  rapidly  and  unevenly ;  in  dyeing 
with  acetic  acid  the  temperature  must  not  be  raised  above  ITU"  F.  as  otherwise  the  shades 
become  duller. 

On  account  of  their  brilliant  shades  and  satisfactory  fastness  to  alkalies,  washing  and 
stoving,  the  Resorcine  Colours  are  used  in  wool  dyeing  for  the  production  of  delicate  pink 
and  pure  red  shades  upon  yarns,  especially  zephyr  and  fancy  yarns,  also  upon  flannels, 
shawls  and  cloths,  upon  the  latter  also  as  pastil  shades.  Owing,  however,  to  their  moderate 
fastness  to  light,  they  have  been  largely  displaced  bj'  the  Rosazeines  and  particularly  by  the 
Fast  Acid  Dyestuffs  whose  application  is  simpler,  and  which  are  faster  to  light. 

The  group  of  Resorcine  dyestuffs  includes  the  following  colours : 
Eosine  extra  soluble   in  water,   extra  cone,  extrayellow,RB,extrabluishN,bluishN, 

extra  BB,  extra  3B,  extra  48,  extra  .^B,  extra  N,  yellowish  N,  extra  ye'ilowish  N, 

extra  NH,    extra    BA   powder,   extra  Phloxine  O,  G,  B,  BB,  BA  extra,  GA  extra, 

yellow,  extra  yellow  cone,  extra  2AN,  :iGA   extra,   B  extra   cone,  BA  extra 

extra  yellow  N,  3G.  O,  BBH,  R. 

Erythrosine  A,  AG,  bluish,  extra,  yellowish,  Rose  Bengale  3B  cone,  B  cone,  G,  B,  B  T,  A. 


Dyeing  in  a  Neutral   Balh. 


125 


IV.  Dyeing  in  a  Neutral  Bath. 

All  basic  dyestuffs  are  dyed  on  wool  in  a  neutral  batfi.  This  method  is  based  upon 
the  fact  that  the  wool  fibre  combines  with  the  colour  bases  of  the  basic  dyestuflfs  to  form  salt-like 
compounds,  in  which  the  wool,  contrary  to  its  behaviour  towards  acid  dyestufls,  appears  to 
play  the  part  of  an  acid.  Wool  having  only  a  weak  acid  character  as  compared  to  the  col- 
our bases,  the  affinity'  of  the  basic  dyestuffs  to  the  wool  fibre  is  comparatively  slight;  hence 
they  dye  very  slowly  and  consequently  very  evenly. 

It  is  usual  to  use  basic  dyestuffs  without  any  addition  to  the  dyebath ;  it  is  only  neces- 
sary to  correct  hard  water,  as  the  nature  of  the  basic  dyestuffs  often  incline  to  their  precip- 
itation in  the  bath.     The  following  method  is  therefore  the  most  suitable  : 

In  order  to  neutralize  the  carbonate  of  lime  and  magnesia,  the  dyebath  is 
corrected  with  some  acetic  acid,  after  which  the  carefully  prepared  dyestuff 
solutions  are  added,  and  the  goods  are  dyed  at  176  —  194°  F. 

A  small  excess  of  acetic  acid  is  not  injurious,  it  acts  even  as  a  protection  and  preventa- 
tive against  dye  spots,  a  fault  which  easily  occurs  when  working  basic  dyestuffs,  and  it  is 
very  difficult  to  remove  these  spots  from  the  goods.  On  the  other  hand,  too  large  an  amount 
of  acetic  acid  retains  the  colouring  matter  in  the  bath. 

A  few  basic  dyestuffs,  above  all  the  Victoria  Blues  and  Rosazeines  (except  4G)  are 
dyed  like  acid  dyestuffs,  in  an  acid  bath  instead  of  a  neutral  bath,  and  consequently  they  are 
often  worked  in  combination  with  these  acid  colours  and  yield  shades  without  any  danger 
of  dyespots.     They  were  therefore  mentioned  already  in  the  first  chapter  (page  12.")). 

For  dyeing  in  a  neutral  bath,  the  following  basic  dyestuffs  are  suitable : 


Auramine  cone,  O,  I,  II. 

Methylene  Yellow  H. 

Flavophosphine   4G   cone,   4  GO,  GR  cone, 

GGO,  G  cone,  GO,  R  cone,  RO. 
Phosphine  extra,  O. 
Chrysoidine   A    crystals,    C   cryst.,    C    extra 

crystals. 
Vesuvine  4BG  cone,  2R,  O,  cone,  extra  yellow. 
Rosazeine  B,  B  extra,  G,  G  extra,  O,  extra. 
Safranine  O,  cone,  AN  extra,  cone  B,  GGS. 
Methylene    Heliotrope   O. 
Methylene  Violet  RRA,  BN,  3RA  extra. 


Rosolane  O,  T 

Magenta  extra  large  cryst.,  large  crystals  extra 
yellow,    small    crystals   extra   yellow. 

New  Magenta  O. 

Methyl  Violet  nR  superior,  MR  superior,  R 
superior,  BB  superior,  BB,  4B. 

Violet  Crystals  O. 

Victoria  Blue  B,  R,  4R 

Malachite  Green  crj'stals  extra,  crystals 
extra  N. 

Brilliant  Green  crystals  extra,  crystals  ex- 
tra N. 


Another  method  for  obtaining  brilliant  shades  in  a  soap  bath,  which  is  generally  com- 
bined with  a  subsequent  stoving  process,  is  the  following.  It  is  mostly  employed  for  delicate 
and  bright  tints  which,  produced  in  this  manner,  are  known  as  "stoving  colours". 

The  dyebath  is  prepared  with  5%  Olive  Oil  soap  and  the  well  prepared 
dyestuff  solution;  the  goods  are  entered  at  122— 140°  F,  until  sufficient  colouring 
matter  has  been  absorbed.  After  dyeing  they  are  hy droex tractcd  without  being 
rinsed,  and  then  stoved  in  the  usual  manner. 

For  this  method  the  following  dyestuffs  are  suitable: 


Auramine  cone,  O,  I,  II. 
Methylene  Yellow  H. 

Rosazeine  B,  B  extra,  G,  G  extra,  O,  extra. 
Safranine  O,  cone,  AN  extra,  cone  B,  GGS. 
Methylene  Heliotrope  O. 
Methylene  Violet  RRA,  BN,  3RA  extra. 
Rosolane  O. 

Magenta  extra  large  crystals,  small  crystals 
extra  yellow,  large  crystals  extra  yellow. 


New  Magenta  O. 

Methyl  Violet,  all  brands. 

Violet  Crystals  O. 

Victoria  Blue  B,  R,  4R. 

Malachite    Green    crystals    extra,    crystals 

extra  N. 
Brilliant  Green  crystals  extra,  crystals 

extra  N. 


General  methods  of  wool  ilycing. 


Lastly,  another  special  process  for  Brilliant  Green  and  Malachite  Green  may  be  men- 
tioned, which  is  based  upon  the  employment  of  a  sulphur  mordant,  and  yields  brighter  and 
faster  results  than  the  other  two  methods : 

The  goods  are  worked  for  an  hour  at  140"  F.  in  a  wooden  vessel  with  l.">"„ 
hyposulphite  of  soda,  3"o  sulphuric  acid  and  5"„  alum.  They  are  left  to  lie  in 
the  bath  for  some  hours,  then  well  washed  until  all  the  acid  is  removed,  and 
dyed  in  a  fresh  bath  at  17(>— 194"  F.  with  Brilliant  Green  or  Malachite  Green. 

The  basic  dyestufts,  to  which  the  oldest  artificial  dyestuffs  introduced  by  the  colour 
industry  belong,  find  to-day  only  a  limited  use  in  wool  dyeing.  Their  place  has  been  filled 
by  the  more  simply  dyed  acid  colours,  which,  on  an  average,  yield  faster  results  to  water,  light 
and  rubbing.  That  they  are  still  employed  in  odd  cases,  is  due  above  all,  to  the  great  purity 
of  shade,  unattained  by  the  acid  dyestuffs;  also  to  their  good  penetration  and  to  their  very 
satisfactory  fastness  to  washing.  They  are  therefore  still  largely  used  for  knitting  and 
zephyr  yarns;  in  piece  dyeing  for  the  production  of  the  ball  and  pastil  shades,  and  also  in 
certain  branches  of  shoddy  dyeing. 


Dyeing  in  an  Acid  Bath  and   Developing  with  Metal  Salts.  127 

V.  Dyeing  in  an  Acid  Bath  and  Developing  with  Metal  Salts. 

The  method  of  dyeing  in  an  acid  bath  and  developing  the  shades  with  metal  salts 
afterwards  —  introduced,  as  is  well  known,  by  the  Farbwerke  Hoechst  —  has  gained  a  most 
extraordinary  importance,  for  the  whole  wool  industry,  and  especially  for  fast  wool  dyeing. 
Although  at  first  looked  upon  with  suspicion  and  even  with  aversion,  it  has  now  not  only 
equalled,  but  already  overtaken  by  far,  the  older  method  of  first  mordanting  and  then  dyeing 
with  mordant  dyestuffs,  and  indeed,  has  become  one  of  the  most  indispensable  processes  of 
the  modern  wool  dyer.  In  consequence,  this  new  method  has  not  only  proved  extremely 
serviceable  to  the  development  of  wool  dyeing  itself,  and  thereby  to  the  progress  of  the  wool 
industry  generally,  but  has  also  stimulated  in  a  high  measure  the  inventive  faculty  of  chemists, 
by  opening  out  new  paths  for  them. 

The  principle  of  this  method  consists  in  the  fact  that  —  contrary  to  the  older  method 
of  previous  mordanting  —  the  acid  colouring  matter  is  taken  up  by,  and  firmly  united  with 
the  wool  fibre,  in  an  acid  bath,  and  that  is  then  converted  into  new  and  fast  combinations 
on  the  fibre  through  a  subsequent  treatment  with  metal  salts. 

Since  by  this  method  use  can  be  made  of  such  dyestuffs  as  already  possess  a  distinct 
affinity  for  the  wool  fibre,  a  much  closer,  and  at  the  same  time,  much  more  even  union 
between  dyestuff  and  fibre  is  effected  than  was  possible  with  the  older  method  of  mordanting 
and  dyeing,  where  the  union  was  only  brought  about  by  the  intermediary  action  of  the  metal 
mordant  employed.  This  much  more  intimate  union  between  colouring  matter  and  the  wool 
fibre  must  be  regarded  as  the  chief  advantage  of  the  new  method  over  the  older  one.  In 
both,  it  is  true,  the  final  product  on  the  fibre  is  a  metal-colour-lake,  i.  e.,  the  aluminium-chrome 
or  copper  salt  of  the  dyestuff  itself,  or  e.  g.  the  chrome  salt  of  the  oxidation  products  of  the 
Chromotrope  FB  and  F4B,  Chromogen  1,  Chrome  Brown  RO  etc.  But  corresponding  to  the 
different  way  in  which  the  lakes  are  formed,  the  one  produced  by  first  mordanting  the  material 
is  fixed  upon  the  material,  whilst  the  lake  produced  by  the  developing  process  is  fixed 
within  the  fibre. 

The  resulting  colour  lakes  are  nearly  all  insoluble  in  water,  even  in  boiling  water;  and 
almost  throughout  extremely  fast  to  alkalies,  milling,  washing,  steaming,  air  and  light.  The 
fastness  properties  are  unquestionably  due  to  the  insolubility  of  the  lakes.  The  degree  of 
insolubility,  however,  is  inter -dependent  on  the  different  character  of  the  dyes,  viz:  whether 
they  are  produced  with  mordant  colours,  or  obtained  by  developing  in  an  acid  bath. 

In  first  mordanting  the  material,  a  metal  salt  is  united  with  the  wool  fibre  in  the  initial 
bath,  and  then  the  goods  dyed  with  the  mordant  dyestuffs.  At  the  very  moment  when  the 
mordanted  fibre  comes  into  contact  with  the  dyestuff"  —  even  before  the  temperature  of  the 
dyebath  has  exceeded  blood  heat  —  the  formation  of  the  insoluble  lakes  begins.  Wherever 
the  lake  has  formed  on  the  fibre,  it  remains  firml}'  fixed  and  cannot  be  moved,  viz:  equalized 
in  the  manner  as  is  possible  when  dyeing  by  other  methods.  It  must,  therefore,  be  the 
foremost  aim  of  the  dyer  to  retard  as  much  as  possible  the  dyeing  process,  so  as  to  afford  to 
all   parts  of  the  material  time  and  opportunity  to  combine  with  the  same  amount  of  dyestuff". 

Notwithstanding  this  necessary  retardation  of  the  dyeing  process  which,  naturally,  is  attended 
by  loss  of  time  and  money,  it  is  unavoidable  that  the  outer  parts  of  wool  material,  e.  g.  of 
wool  yarn,  or  even  the  outer  parts  of  each  separate  wool  fibre,  are  dyed  more  strongly  and 
deeply  because  they  come  into  more  frequent  contact  with,  and  therefore  absorb  a  greater  amount 
of  dyestuff'  than  the  interior  parts.  The  consequence  is  the  well  known  fact,  that  wool  dyed 
on  a  mordant  never  presents  the  same  appearance  of  smooth,  even  "thoroughness"  as  the 
dyeings  obtained  by  the  other  methods. 

The  eff'ects  of  dyeing  in  an  acid  bath  and  subsequent  developing  the  acid  dyed  shades 
with  metal  salts  are  quite  diff'erent.  Here  the  dyestuff's  are  first  worked  according  to  the 
rules  of  dyeing  in  an  acid  bath;  viz:  in  the  first  place  only  their  nature  as  acid  dyestuff"  is 
to  be  reckoned  with,  which  produces  very  even  results,  faultlessly  dyed  through.  At  this 
first    stage    of  the    dyeing   process   no  insoluble  substances  are  present,  as  is  the  case  when 


123  General  methods  of  wool  dyeing. 


using  mordant  colours,  and  in  boiling  an  adjustment  between  parts  that  are  more  strongly 
dyed  and  those  that  are  rather  lighter  at  first  takes  place,  until  a  state  of  equilibrium  and 
perfect  evenness  is  reached.  This  adjustment  is  assisted,  in  accordance  with  the  nature  of 
the  dyestufTs  employed,  by  the  use  of  larger  quantities  of  Glauber's  Salt  and  a  reduction  of 
quantity  and  strength  of  the  acid  for  dyestufls  which  do  not  equalize  easily.  In  especially 
difficult  cases,  it  is  advisable  to  further  ensure  equalization  by  entering  the  mateiial  at  a 
lower  temperature. 

In  order,  therefore,  to  produce  even  results  with  developing  dyestuffs,  the  same  rules 
apply  as  for  dyeing  in  an  ordinary  acid  bath  (sec  page  llT). 

The  new  metliod  only  conies  sinto  play  after  thus  bringing  about  an  intimate  and 
perfectly  even  union  between  dyestuft'and  wool  fibre,  and  the  insoluble  fast  colour  lake  is  formed 
on  the  fibre  by  the  reaction  of  the  metal  salt  used.  Thereby,  however,  a  much  greater 
evenness  and  far  better  penetration  are  produced,  and  although  it  is  possible  to  work  much 
more  quickly  and  economically  than  by  employing  the  mordanting  process,  the  efiects  are 
more  even  throughout,  and  the  fast  lakes  belter  united  with  the  fibre. 

Considering  these  facts,  the  advantages  of  the  method  ot  dyeing  in  an  acid  bath  and 
developing  with  metal  salts,  when  compared  with  that  of  applying  mordant  colours,  are  — 
apart  from  the  goods  being  better  dyed  through  —  greater  fastness  to  rubbing,  and  a  consi- 
derable saving  of  time.  This  means,  as  a  matter  of  course,  diminished  consumption  of  steam, 
saving  of  wages  and  of  plant,  and  increased  output. 

Still  more  essential  is  the  fact  that  the  new  method,  by  which  the  dyeing  operation 
may  be  carried  out  in  an  acid  bath  and  the  dyeing  process  completed  in  a  shorttr  time,  aftects 
the  quality  of  the  dyed  material  (loose  wool,  stubbing  yarn  &  piece  goods)  much  less  injuri- 
ously than  the  older  method  of  dyeing  on  a  mordant,  where  the  long  sustained  boiling  in 
neutral  or  nearly  neutral  mordant  and  dye  baths,  is  bound  to  impair  the  quality  of  the 
dyed  material  considerably. 

It  is  due  to  these  great  advantages  that  the  process  of  dyeing  in  an  acid  bath  and 
subsequently  developing  the  shades  with  metal  salts  (principally  with  chrome  salts)  has,  in  a 
relatively  short  time,  been  so  widely  adopted  and  gained  such  high  importance  in  wool  dyeing. 

This  application  would  indeed  have  developed  still  more  rapidly,  had  the  after-chroming 
process  not  failed  in  some  cases.  The  success  of  the  process  depends  upon  a  condition  to 
which  not  always  sufficient  attention  is  paid  in  practice.  Namely,  the  employment  of  the  acid 
bath  necessitates  that  only  material  is  used,  which  has  been  thoroughly  washed  and  is  entirely 
free  from  grease.  If  the  material  contains  any  fat  or  soap,  either  througli  insufficient  cleansing 
of  the  wool,  or  through  faulty  manipulations  in  washing,  milling  or  preparatory  finishing,  the 
intimate  union  between  fibre  and  dyestufl",  for  which  this  method  is  otherwise  distinguished, 
is  not  fully  achieved,  and  on  such  material  the  old  process  of  dyeing  upon  a  mordant  —  the 
chrome  mordant  especially  acts  as  a  cleanser  —  yields  actually  better  results  than  the  new 
method  of  after-chroming. 

The  developing  operation  can  be  carried  out  with  various  metal  salts;  in  the  case  of 
some  dyestutfs,  the  process  which  takes  place  is  simple  lake  formation;  with  most  others, 
however,  especially  with  Chroniogen  I,  Chroniotrope  FB,  F4B,  DVV,  S,  SB,  SR,  Chromotrope 
Blue,  Chrome  Brown,  Acid  Alizarine  Blue  BB  and  GR  (which  latter  yield  not  blue,  but  a  grey 
with  bichrome)  an  oxidation  of  the  dyesturt"  and  a  simultaneous  lake  formation  takes  place 
when  bichromate  of  potash  or  bichromate  of  soda  is  used. 

It  is  a  characteristic  feature  that  the  above  named  Chromotropes,  Chrome  Brown  and 
Chromogen  I,  are  incapable  of  being  developed  with  fluoride  of  chrome,  viz:  a  chrome  oxide 
salt  which  has  no  oxidizing  property,  whereas  the  Chromotropes  2R,  "iB,  6B,  8B,  10 B,  Ali- 
zarine Yellow,  Mordant  Yellow  O,  Alizarine  Red  IWS,  Alizarine  Orange,  Ceruleine  B,  BWR, 
Fast  Mordant  Blue,  as  well  as  all  Acid  Alizarine  Dyestufts  can  be  developed  both  with 
bichromate  of  potash  and  with  fluoride  of  chrome. 

The  most  important  developers  are  bichromate  of  potash  or  bichromate  of  soda,  which 
have  exactly  the  same  effect  upon  the  colours;  besides  these,  fluoride  of  chrome,  also  alum 
and  copper  sulphate  are  used  for  developing;  some  dyestufls,  such  as  Chrome  Black  B  &  T, 


Dyeing  in  an  Acid  Bath  and  Developing  with   Metal  Salts.  129 


are  treated  both  with  bichromate  of  potash  and  with  copper  sulphate,  in  which  case  the  latter 
serves  most  especially  to  enhance  the  fastness  to  light. 

In  dyeing  with  developing  dyestufts,  the  same  rules  and  preparations  as  for  dyeing  in 
an  acid  bath,  are  to  be  followed.  The  nature  of  the  dyestuff  used,  determines  the  method 
of  dyeing  to  be  adopted  in  order  to  ensure  even  absorption  and  perfect  penetration. 

Tiie  equalizing  capacity  of  the  developing  dyestufts  used,  is  gauged  by  the  figures  of 
onr  fastness  tables  in  part  I,  and  the  same  considerations  as  are  taken  when  dyeing  in  an 
acid  bath,  appertain  here  for  the  proper  method,  requisite  additions,  and  preparation  of  the 
dyebath.     (See  page  117.) 

If  developing  dj'estufts  are  used  in  old  baths  for  dyeing  simultaneously,  it  is  advisable 
to  keep  two  separate  baths  —  one  for  dyeing  and  the  other  for  developing  —  and  to  refresh 
each  one  by  corresponding  additions  of  dyestuff  and  acid  on  the  one  hand,  and  of  metal  salt 
on  the  other. 

If,  however,  baths  are  used  over  again  in  which  both  the  dyeing  and  developing 
operations  have  taken  place,  the  goods  are  entered  without  any  addition  of  dyestuff  and  acid, 
and  boiled  with  advantage  for  about  '/.>  hour  whilst  adding  1  — 2%  lactic  acid,  in  order  to 
reduce  any  bichromate  of  potash  remaining  in  the  bath,  and  to  precipitate  the  chrome  oxide 
upon  the  fibre.  The  bath  is  then  cooled  down  to  140"  F,  dyestuff"  and  acid  are  added,  and 
the  dyeing  operation  proceeded  with  in  the  usual  manner. 

As  a  rule,  no  special  advantages  are  derived  from  dyeing  in  an  old  bath  with  chrome 
developing  colours,  except  a  saving  of  steam;  for  the  colours  exhaust  well,  and  no  appreciable 
saving  of  dyestuff"  is  effected  by  using  these  old  baths. 

The  very  pronounced  tendency  of  many  developing  dyestuffs,  especially  of  the  blues 
and  blacks,  to  form  fast  lakes  with  metal  salts,  makes  itself  sometimes  very  undesirably  felt 
in  their  use.  When  working  in  bright  metal  vessels,  or  also  in  wooden  cisterns  which  are 
heated  with  metal  coils,  it  frequently  occurs  that  portions  of  metal  are  dissolved,  according 
to  tlie  kind  of  metal  and  of  the  acid  employed.  These,  together  with  the  dyestuff',  form 
copper  iron  or  lead  lakes  which,  in  many  cases,  are  so  stable  that  the  proper  developing 
medium  which  is  added  afterwards,  is  no  longer  able  to  combine  with  the  dyestuff".  The 
consequence  is,  that  dyes  are  produced,  which  in  point  of  shade  and  fastness,  turn  out  entirely 
different  from  what  has  been  expected. 

It  is  therefore  very  necessary  when  using  developing  dyestuffs,  to  take  into  consideration 
the  dyeing  apparatus,  and  to  consider  also  the  behaviour  of  the  dyestufts  towards  the  respective 
metals.  Iron  and  leaden  vessels  and  apparatus  are  frequently  quite  useless,  whilst  in  some 
cases  their  presence  has  the  eff"ect  of  rendering  the  shade  fuller  and  purer,  as,  e.  g.  those  of 
iron  with  Acid  Alizarine  Black  R,  T  &  RH.  In  almost  all  cases  copper  apparatus  are  well 
adapted;  their  possibly  harmful  influence  can  be  counteracted  in  the  simplest  manner  by  not 
polishing  them,  but  by  leaving  undisturbed,  as  a  protection  against  the  action  of  the  acid,  the 
layer  of  insoluble  copper  oxide  which  is  gradually  precipitated  on  the  walls  of  these  vessels.  As 
a  safe  remedy  in  all  cases,  an  addition  of  3 — 6  ozs.  ammonium  sulpho  cyanide  per  200  gall, 
liquid,  according  to  the  material  of  the  apparatus,  is  to  be  recommended. 

The  developing  dyestuff"s  can  be  used  without  hesitation  in  combination  with  all  acid 
dyestuff"s  which  are  not  sensitive  to  the  respective  inetal  salts.  In  wool  dyeing,  much  use  is 
made  of  this  property  bj'  primarily  adding  to  the  chrome  developing  colours  as  auxiliaries, 
several  correspondingly  fast  acid  dyestuffs,  such  as  Milling  Yellow  O,  Milling  Scarlet  4R  cone, 
Oxydianil  Yellow,  Dianil  Yellow,  Cresotine  Yellow,  Scarlet  B  extra,  Alizarine  Direct  Blue  B, 
Alizarine  Direct  Green  G,  or  the  well  equalizing  acid  dj'estuiTs,  such  as  Patent  Blue  A, 
Milling  Blue  2R  extra,  the  Fast  Acid  Violets,  Acid  Violet  5BF,  Flavazine  T  etc. 

After  developing  with  metal  salts,  the  first  named  dyestuff"s  and  the  developing  colours 
themselves  are  generally  not  suitable  as  additions  for  shading  purposes,  because  they  equalize 
too  badly;  for  these  purposes  such  easily  equalizing  acid  dyestuft's  are  used  with  advantage, 
as  are  not  destroyed  nor  converted  into  lakes  by  metal  salts.  Experience  shows  that  the 
fastness  of  the  result  is  not  impaired  to  any  perceptible  degree  by  relatively  small  quantities 
of  these  equalizing  dyestuffs. 

9Ie 


130 


Gcneial  methods  of  wool  dyeing. 


The  following  paragraphs  contain  a  summary  of  the  eflfect  which  the  various  metal 
sjlts  produce  on  certain  developing  colours,  and  of  thoie  equalizing  dyestuffs  suitable  for 
shading  them. 

1.  Developing  with  Bichromate  of  Potash. 

The  method  of  developing  with  bichromate  of  potash  (bichrome)  or  bichromate  of  soda, 
is  by  far  the  most  important;  it  is  applicable  to  the  greatest  number  of  dyestuffs  and  yields 
the  fastest  colours  even  in  cases  where  other  modes  of  developing  are  well  adapted. 

The  following  method  is  the  usual  one  for  developing  with  bichromate  of  potash: 

According  to  the  equalizing  property  of  the  dyestuffs,  the  dyebath  is  prepared  with 
10— 20"/o  Glauber's  Salt  and  3—5%  sulphuric  acid.  For  badly  equalizing  dyestufls,  or  for 
goods  which  are  not  easily  dyed  evenly,  weaker  acids  are  used.  The  goods  are  entered 
at  122°  F;  the  temperature  is  raised  to  the  boil,  boiling  continued  for  1  hour,  and  if  necessary 
gradually  more  acid  added.  When  the  bath  is  sufficienily  exhausted,  it  is  slightly  cooled 
down,  1  — 3";o  bichromate  of  potash  (according  to  the  depth  of  shade  required)  are  added, 
the  temperature  again  raised  to  the  boil,  and  the  shade  developed  by  further  boiling  for  \t  hour. 

Clironiotrope  FB,  F4B,  S,  SR,  Chromotrope  Blue  A,  WB  and  \VG,  Chrome  Brown  RC), 
BO,  arc  developed  witli  bichromate  of  potash,  1— 2",o  sulphuric  acid  and  1— 3"u  lactic  acid, 
in  order  to  obtain  greater  fastness  to  milling. 


Dyestuffs   suitable   for  developi: 

Alizarine  Yellow   5  0,   GGW  powder,  GGW 
paste,    R\V  powder,  RVV  paste. 
Mordant  Yellow  O,  cone,  N 

Acid  Alizarine  Yellow  RC. 

Dianil  Fast  Red  PH. 

Alizarine  Red  IWS,  3WS,  PS. 

Acid  Alizarine  Red  G,  B. 

Acid  Alizarine  Grenade  R. 

Acid  Alizarine  Violet  N. 

Acid    Alizarine    Brown    R,    B,   BB,    T,    Rll 
extra,  RP. 

Chromogen  I. 

Fast  A\ordant  Blue  R,  B,  BT,  RT,  HBR. 

Acid  .Alizarine  Green  G. 

Ccruleine  B  paste,  BWR  powder. 


g   with   bichromate  of  potash. 

Acid  Alizarine  Dark  Blue  SX. 

Acid    Alizarine    Blue    BB,    GR    (these    turn 

grey),  WE,  WEB  cone. 
Acid  Alizarine  Grey  G. 
Acid  Alizarine  Blue  Black  B,  RB,  3B. 
Acid  Alizarine  Black  3B  extra,  3B,  R,  R  extra, 

RG,  RH,   AC,  T,  TG,  SE  paste,  SE 

powder,    SET    paste,    SET    powder, 

SN,  SNT. 
Chrome  Brown  RO,  BO. 
Chromotrope   FB,   F4B,   DW,   8B,   10 B,  S, 

SB,  SR. 
Chromotrope  Blue  A,  WB,  WG. 
Chrome    Black   2G,   B,  T  (to  be  developed 

with   bichrome   and  copper  sulphate). 


S  h  a  d  i  n  g  -  o  f  f  d  y  e  s  t  u  f  f  s  w  h  i  c  h 

Chinoline  Yellow  O,  extra,  cone. 

Flavazine  3GL,  L,  S. 

Flavazine  T. 

Orange  No.  4,  G,  No.  2. 

Brilliant  Orange  G,  O. 

Azo  Acid  Red  B,  5  B. 

Amido  Naphtol  Red  G,  BB,  6B. 

Fast  Acid   Red  A. 

Fast  Acid  Violet  B,  R,  A2R,  RGE.RBK,  BE,  RL. 

Fast  Acid  Eosine  G,  G  extra. 

Fast  Acid  Phloxine  A,  A  extra. 

Fast  Acid  Magenta  G,  G  cone.  *■ 

Fast  Yellow  O,  S. 


may   be   added   to   the   bichrome   bath. 

Azo  Yellow  O,  cone. 

Victoria  Yellow  O,  double,  cone,  cone.  D. 
Rosazeine  O,  extra,  B,  B  extra,  G,  G  extra. 
Milling  Blue  2R  extra. 
Black  Blue  O. 

Acid  Violet  N,  5BF,  3RA,  (jBL,  CBN. 
Patent   Blue   A,   AF,   AJI,  V,    N,   L,  LE,  C, 
B,  J  I,  J2,  J3,  EN,  VN,  Y,  RB,  RB\. 
Cyanine  B. 

Alizarine  Direct  Blue  E3B,  EB. 
Naphtalene  Green  \',  cone. 
Fast  Acid  Green  BB,  BB  extra. 
Patent  Green  V,  VS,  VVS. 


Dyeing  in  an   Acid  Balh  and  Developing  with  Metal  Salts. 


131 


Of  the   above,   the    following   are    especially  suitable  in  small  quantities  for  shading  off 
colours  intended  for  milling: 


Flavazine  T. 

Fast  Acid  Magenta  G,  G  cone. 

Fast  Acid  Violet  B,  R,  A2R,  RBE,  ROE,  RL. 


Acid  Violet  5BF. 

Patent  Blue  A,  AF,  AJl. 

Milling  Blue  2R  extra. 


2.  Developing  with  Fluoride  of  Chrome. 

Shades  developed  with  fluoride  of  chrome  are  almost  always  inferior,  as  regards  fastness 
to  washing  and  milling,  to  those  developed  with  bichrome,  if  the  latter  method  of  developing 
is  possible.  For  that  reason,  fluoride  of  chrome  is  employed  inuch  more  rarely  for  developing 
than  bichrome.  An  exception  are:  Acid  Alizarine  Blue  BB  and  OR,  and  Acid  Alizarine 
Dark  Blue,  which  are  almost  exclusively  developed  with  fluoride  of  chrome,  and  by  this 
means  yield  more  valuable  colors  than  when  developed  with  bichrome. 

The  following  is  the  usual  method  for  developing  with  fluoride  of  chrome: 
The  dyebath  is  prepared  with  10-20''/o  Glauber's  Salt  and  3— 5  "/o  sulphuric  acid  or 
else,  according  to  the  equalizing  property  of  the  dyestuffs  used,  with  other  additions  or  weaker 
acids,  together  with  the  necessary  dyestuff.  The  goods  are  entered  at  122"  F;  the  tempe- 
rature raised  to  the  boil,  and  boiling  continued  for  1  hour.  For  dyestuffs  which  do  not 
equalize  easily,  the  acid  required  is  added  later.  When  the  bath  is  neatly  exhausted,  it  is 
slightly  cooled  down,  1 — 4°'o  fluoride  of  chrome,  according  to  the  depth  of  shade,  are  added, 
the  temperature  again  raised  to  the  boil  and  the  shade  developed  by  further  boiling  for  1  hour. 


Dyestuffs  suitable  for  develop! 

Alizarine  Yellow  5G,  GGW  powder,  GGW 
paste,  RW  powder,  R\V  paste. 

Mordant  Yellow  O. 

Acid  Alizarine  Yellow  RC. 

Alizarine  Orange  N,  R,  P. 

Dianil  Fast  Red  PH. 

Alizarine  Red  IWS,  3WS,  PS. 

Acid  Alizarine  Red  B  &  G. 

Acid  Alizarine  Grenade  R. 

Acid  Alizarine  Violet  N. 

Acid  Alizarine  Brown  B,  BB,  R,  T,  RH 
extra,  RP. 


ng  with  fluoride  of  chrome. 

Acid  Alizarine  Blue  GR,  BB,  V^E. 

Acid  Alizarine  Dark  Blue  SN. 

Acid  Alizarine  Green  G. 

Ceruleine  B  paste,  BW  paste,  BWR. 

Fast  Mordant  Blue  R,  B,  RT,  BT.  BBR. 

Acid  Alizarine  Grey  G. 

Acid  Alizarine  Blue  Black  3  B. 

Chromotrope  2R,  2B,  GB,  SB,  10 B. 

Acid  Alizarine  Black  3B  e.Ktra,  3B,  R,  R 
extra,  RG,  RH,  AC,  T,  TG,  SE  paste, 
SE  powder,  SET  paste,  SET  powder, 
SN,  SNT. 


Sh  a  ding-off  dyestu  ffs,   which   ma 
prepared   with   f 

Chinoline  Yellow  O,  extra,  cone. 

Flavazine  L,  S,  T. 

Fast  Yellow  O,  S. 

Azo  Yellow  O,  cone. 

Victoria  Yellow  O,  double,  cone. 

Chrysoine  G,  R. 

Orange  G,  No.  2,  No.  4. 

Brilliant  Orange  G,  O,  R. 

Azo  Acid  Red  B,  5B. 

Amido  Naphtol  Red  G,  BB,  6B. 

Azo  Acid  Carmine  B. 

Fast  Acid  Red  A. 

Fast  Acid  Green  BB,  BB  extra. 

Fast  Acid  Violet  B,  R,  A2R,  RL,  RGE,  RBE. 


y   be  added   to   the   developing   bath 
luoride   of  chrome. 

Fast  Acid  Eosine  G,  G  extra. 

Fast  Acid  Phloxine  A,  A  extra. 

Fast  Acid  Magenta  G,  G  cone. 

Rosazeine  O,  extra,  B,  B  extra,  G,  G  extra. 

Milling  Blue  2R  extra. 

Black  Blue  O. 

Acid  Violet  6  BN,  r,  BF,  N,  6BL,  3RA. 

Patent  Blue  A,  AJl,  AF,  V,  N,  L,  LE,  C,  B, 

Jl,  J  2,  J  3,  EN,  VN,  Y,  RB,  RBN. 
Cyanine  B. 

Alizarine  Direct  Blue  E3B,  EB. 
Naphtalene  Green  V,  cone. 
Patent  Green  V,  VS,  VVS. 


1  .■!2  General  melbods  of  wool  dyeing. 


3.  Developing  with  Alum. 

Developing  with  alum  is  still  less  frequently  resorted  to  than  developing  with  fluoride 
of  chrome.  Its  chief  use  is  for  the  production  of  madder  shades  which  are  fast  to  light  and 
milling,  by  means  of  Alizarine  Red;  these  are  shaded  of  with  Alizarine  Orange  and  Alizarine 
Yellow.  Sometimes  Chromotropes  are  developed  with  alum  in  order  to  produce  shades  fast 
to  water.    The  method  of  dj'eing  is  as  follows: 

The  dyebath  is  prepared  with  3 — 4%  sulphuric  acid,  10 ",o  Glauber's  Salt  and  the 
requisite  quantity  of  dyestufl".  The  goods  are  entered  at  122"  F,  the  bath  is  lieated  to  the 
boil,  and  boiling  continued  for  1  hour.  Then  5— 10",o  alum  (free  from  iron)  are  added,  according 
to  the  depth  of  shade  required,  and  the  shade  is  developed  bj'  boiling  for  another  hour. 

Dyestuffs  suitable   for  developing  with  alum. 

Alizarine     Yellow     GGW     powder,     GGW  Alizarine  Red  I WS,  3WS,  PS. 

paste,  .■)G.  Chromotrope  RR,  HB,  6B,  8B,  1015. 

Alizarine  Orange  N,  R,  P. 

Shading  off  dyestuffs  which  may  be  added  to   the   developing  bath 
prepared    with   a  1  u  m. 

Chinoline  Yellow  O,  extra,  cone.  Fast  Acid  Phloxine  A,  A  extra. 

Flavazine  S,  L,  T.  Fast  Acid  Magenta  G,  G  cone. 

Azo  Yellow  O,  cone.  Rosazeine  O,  e.xtra,  B,  B  extra,  G,  G  extra. 

Victoria  Yellow  O,  double,  cone.  Milling  Blue  2R  extra. 

Orange  No.  2,  No.  4,  G.  Black  Blue  O. 

Brilliant  Orange  G,  O,  R.  Acid  Violet  6BN,  5  BF,  N,  6  BL,  a  RA. 

Scarlet  R,  2R,  3R,  B  extra.  Patent   Blue    A,   AJl,   AF,  V,  N,  L,  LK,  C, 

Azo  Acid  Red  B,  .5B.  B,   jl,  .12,  jM,  KN,  VN,  Y,  RB,  RBN. 

Amide  Naphtol  Red  G,  BB,  6B.  Cyaiiine  H. 

Azo  Acid  Carmine  B.  Alizarine  Direct  Blue  E3B,  EB. 

Fast  Acid  Red  A.  Naphtalene  Green  V,  cone. 

Fast    Acid    Violet    H,    R,    A2R,    15E,    RGE,  Fast  Acid  Green  BB,  BB  extra. 

RBE,  RE.  Patent  Green  V,  VS,  VVS. 
Fast  Acid  Eosine  G,  G  extra. 

4.  Developing  with  Copper  Sulphate. 

Several  developing  dyestufts  form  pronounced  copper  lakes  with  copper  sulphate,  which 
are  superior  to  the  ordinary  acid  dyed  shades  of  these  dyestulVs,  in  regard  to  fastness  to 
alkalies,  water  and  washing,  but  above  all,  to  light.  These  copper  lakes,  however,  do  not 
withstand  stronger  alkaline  treatments,  such  as  heavy  milling.  They  arc,  therefore,  chielly 
used  in  piece  dyeing. 

The  dyebath  is  prepared  with  30''/o  Glauber's  Salt  and  2— 4%  sulphuric  acid,  or  with 
20";,,  Glauber's  Salt  and  10%  tartar  substitute,  besides  the  necessary  amount  of  dyestuiV.  The 
goods  are  entered  at  86—104°  F.  the  temperature  is  slowly  raised  to  the  boil,  and  boiling 
continued  for  1  hour.  Then  the  required  amount  of  copper  sulphate  —  1 -3",o  —  is  added, 
and  the  shade  developed  by  further  boiling  lor  '/-•  hour.  In  many  cases  the  copper  sulphate 
may  be  added  at  first  to  the  dyebath. 

D  y  e  s  t  u  f  f  s  suitable   f  o  r  developing  with   copper   sulphate. 

Copper  Red  N.  Chrome  Black   2G,  B,  T   (to   be   developed 

Copper  Blue  B,  B  extra.  with  bichromc  and  copper). 

Copper  Black  S,  SB. 


Developing  with  copper  sulphate.  133 


Shading-off  dyestuffs,  which   may   be   added   to   the   developing   bath 
containing   copper  sulphate. 

Ch incline  Yellow  O,  extia,  cone.  Fast  Acid  Phloxine  A,  A  extra. 

Flavazeine  S,  L,  T.  Fast  Acid  Magenta  G,  G  cone. 

Azo  Yellow  O,  cone.  Milling  Blue  2R  extra. 

Victoria  Yellow  O,  cone,  double.  Acid  Violet  6  BN,  5BF,  N,  6BL,  3RA. 

Orange  G,  No.  2,  No.  4.  Patent   Blue   A,   AJl,  AF,  V,  N,  L,  LE,  C, 

Brilliant  Orange  G,  O,  R.  B,  Jl,  J2,  J3,  EN,  VN,  Y,  RB,  RBN. 

Azo  Acid  Red  B,  5B.  Cyanine  B. 

Amido  Naphtol   Red  G,  BB,  6B.  Alizarine  Direct  Blue  E3B,  EB. 

Fast  Acid  Red  B.  Naphtalene  Green  V,  cone. 

Fast   Acid    Violet    B,    R,    A2R,  BE,    RGE,            Fast  Acid  Green  BB,  BB  extra. 

RBE,  RL.  Patent  Green  V,  V.S. 

Fast  Acid  Eosine  G,  G  extra.  Patent  Blue  VVS. 


1^4  General   iiiclhiKl>  of  wool  dyeing. 


VI.  Dyeing  upon  previously  mordanted  material. 

In  tlie  foregoing  chapters  we  liave  discussed  the  methods  of  dyeing  wool  with  dyestufls 
which  have  a  direct  affinity  for  the  wool  fibre,  and  are  capable  of  forming  dyed  compounds 
with  it,  whereby  the  substances  added  in  dyeing  serve  merely  for  regulating  and  assisting  the 
dyeing  process. 

Contrary  to  these  products,  which  belong  in  a  wider  sense  to  the  group  of  substantive 
dyestufls,  is  the  behaviour  of  the  mordant  colours,  representing  a  group  which  may  be  termed 
the  adjective  dyestuffs.  By  themselves  they  are  incapable  of  entering  into  dyeing  combinations 
of  a  serviceable  nature  with  the  wool  fibre,  but  require  an  intermediary  link  between  thems- 
elves and  the  wool  fibre,  viz.:  the  mordant. 

For  that  purpose  it  is  necessary  to  precipitate  before  dyeing,  upon  and  within  the  wool 
fibre,  a  basic  metal  salt  in  as  fine  and  even  a  distribution  and  as  insoluble  a  form  as  possible, 
and  one  which  is  capable  of  uniting  with  the  dyestuff,  which  reacts  as  a  weak  acid,  to  form  a 
dyed  salt-like  compound,  the  colour  lake,  thereby  imparting  to  the  fibre  a  tinctorial  eftect. 

Dyeing  with  mordant  dyestufls,  therefore,  consists  of  two  separate  operations,  mordan- 
ting and  dyeing,  which,  as  compared  to  dyeing  in  the  acid  bath  and  to  dyeing  with  deve- 
loping dyestuffs  —  both  one -bath  operations  —  carry  witii  them  an  extra  expenditure  in 
power  and  steam,  time  and  v^'ages,  and  increase  the  strain  upon  the  wool  fibre  which,  as  is  well 
known,  is  rather  sensitive.  In  consequence,  dyeing  on  previously  mordanted  wool  has  un- 
deniably lost  much  of  its  importance,  owing  to  the  ever  growing  employment  of  the  method 
of  after-development,  especially  of  the  chrome  developing  dyestufls.  This  was  only  to  be 
expected,  considering  the  advantages  of  the  latter,  fully  detailed  at  the  beginning  of  the  previous 
chapter.  For  all  that,  it  is  a  method  still  much  applied  to  fast  wool  dyeing  and  in  many  cases 
indispensable. 

Apart  from  the  fact  that  the  conservatism  of  many  dyers  and  consumers  causes  dyeing 
with  mordant  dyestuffs  still  to  be  carried  on  to  a  large  extent,  this  process  is  often  resorted 
to,  (in  spite  of  the  great  progress  made  by  the  coal  tar  colour  industry  with  regard  to  the 
developing  dyestufls)  because  in  several  instances,  the  results  obtained  with  the  latter  do  not 
show  the  reaction  demanded  by  liie  trade  and  peculiar  to  the  mordant  dyestufls.  E.  g.,  no 
chrome  developing  dyestuft'  will  produce  the  yellow  nitric  acid  spot  still  customary  in  com- 
merce as  a  test  of  the  fastness  of  a  blue;  which  spot,  however,  is  obtained  upon  Alizarine 
Blue  and  Indigo. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  mordant  dyestufls,  as  already  mentioned  at  the  beginning  of 
the  previous  chapter,  possess  this  advantage  over  the  developing  dyestufls  that  they  can  often 
be  dj'ed  satisfactorily  on  greasy  wools  and  materials,  w-hereas  developing  dyestuffs  would  fail 
under  the  same  circumstances. 

The  mordant  dyestuffs  form  with  a  large  number  of  metal  oxides  characteristically  dyed 
compounds:  the  colour  lakes.  For  the  purposes  of  wool  dyeing,  however,  only  two  of  them 
are  to  be  considered,  viz.:  alumina  and  chrome  oxide,  which  serve  for  the  production  of  the 
alum  and  the  chrome  mordant  respectively.  Whilst  the  alum  mordant  is  almost  entirely  used 
for  red  shades,  and  its  use  is  therefore  restricted,  the  chrome  mordant  is  very  largely  employed 
for  dj'eing  with  all  mordant  dyestufls. 

1.  Alum  Mordant. 

Mordanting  wool  with  alum  is  carried  out  as  follows: 

The  bath  is  prepared  for  dark  shades  with  10",,i  alum,  3"„  tartar,  and  2",,,  oxalic  acid; 
for  light  shades  with  .")",'„  alum,  l,5°;o  tartar,  and  1  ",„  oxalic  acid,  the  goods  arc  then  entered, 
boiled  for  I'/s  hours  and  well  rinsed. 

The  volume  of  the  baih  should  not  be  more  than  50  nor  less  than  :it)  times  the  weight 
of  the  material.  In  yarn  dyeing,  for  the  manipulation  of  which  more  diluted  baths  arc  required, 
the  proportions  must  be  correspondingly  increased.     With  too  much  liquor  the  alum  mordant 


Dyeing  upon  previously  mordanted  material.  135 

is  insufficiently  fixed,  a  disintegration  of  the  alum  and  a  precipitation  of  alumina  oxide  takes 
place  to  some  extent  within  the  liquid,  and  this  then  becomes  only  superficially  fixed  upon 
the  fibre,  so  that  the  results  ultimately  obtained  are  poor  and  bare,  and  rub  badly. 

if,  on  the  other  hand,  the  bath  is  too  concentrated,  there  is  fixed  on  the  wool  along 
with  the  alumina,  too  much  acid,  with  the  result  that  the  formation  of  the  colour  lake  is 
hindered  during  the  dyeing  process,  and  the  dyes  obtained  are  less  fast,  and  usually  of  an 
orange  hue. 

As  the  Alizarine  lakes  are  very  sensitive  to  iron,  a  small  quantity  of  which  dulls  the 
shade  considerably,  it  is  important  to  ascertain  that  neither  the  water  nor  the  alum  employed 
contain  any  iron. 

For  dyeing  upon  alum  mordant,  the  dyebath  is  prepared  with  the  requisite  quantity  of 
dyestiiff,  2"/o  tannin  and  2'/2— V'/o"/.)  acetate  of  lime,  according  to  the  depth  of  shade. 

The  dyestuff  is  previously  mixed  with  pure  water,  and  added  to  the  bath  through  a 
sieve.  The  goods  are  entered  at  the  usual  temperature  and  well  worked,  whilst  the  bath 
is  heated  to  the  boil  within  an  hour;  boiling  is  continued  for  1'/^  hours,  when  the  goods  are 
wtU  rinsed  and  dried. 

Care  must  be  taken  both  in  starting  the  operation  and  during  the  dyeing,  that  no  iron 
be  present.  On  the  other  hand,  the  presence  of  lime  is  necessary  for  the  production  of  a 
bright  and  fast  red,  and,  as  can  be  seen  from  the  above  directions,  is  it  best  added  in  the 
dyebath  in  the  form  of  acetate  of  lime.  Seeing  that  the  alum- mordanted  wool,  as  a  rule, 
still  contains  some  acid,  it  is  not  required  to  correct  water  containing  lime  with  acetic  acid, 
but  rather  to  avoid  excess  of  acid  in  the  dyebath,  because  it  prevents  a  complete  lake  formation. 
Only  when  using  Alizarine  Red  1  \VS  and  PS,  Ceruleine  and  Alizarine  Yellow  GGW,  is  it 
advisable  to  add  some  acetic  acid  to  the  dyebath,  if  the  water  is  hard. 

The  addition  of  tannin  to  the  bath,  which  was  first  recommended  by  the  Farbwerke, 
Hoechst,  effects  a  great  increase  of  the  fastness  to  milling,  and  especially  to  bleeding. 

In  dyeing  upon  an  alum  mordant,  it  is  to  be  noted  that  the  colour  lake  once  formed  on 
the  wool  fibre  is  most  difficult  to  remove  again  in  the  dyebath,  that,  therefore,  contrary  to 
the  dyeing  in  an  acid  bath,  continued  boiling  does  not  help  to  equalize  unevennesses.  For 
that  reason  it  is  necessary  to  take  care  in  dyeing  upon  mordanted  wool,  that  a  level  shade 
is  obtained  from  the  beginning.  That  the  goods  are  well  worked  during  the  dyeing  operation, 
and  the  dyebath  is  heated  slowly,  are  primary  conditions  for  obtaining  good  and  even  results 
upon  mordanted  material. 

For  the  same  reasons,  mordant  dyestufts  cannot  be  used  for  shading  at  the  boil.  If  it 
is  necessary  to  add  some  mordant  dyestuft,  the  bath  must  be  allowed  to  cool  down  first,  and 
the  temperature  is  then  again  slowly  raised,  after  the  addition  is  made. 

The  last  additions  for  the  purpose  of  matching,  are  most  conveniently  made  with  acid 
dyestufts  of  good  fastness  and  known  equalizing  property.  These  small  additions  of  acid 
dyestufts,  do  not  impair  the  fastness  of  the  result  upon  mordanted  wool. 

The  following  dyestufts  are  suitable  for  dyeing  upon  alum-mordanted  material: 
AlizarineYellow5G,GGWpaste,GGWpowder.  Alizarine  Red  all  paste  brands,  IWS,  3WS, 

Mordant  Yellow  O.  PS. 

Alizarine  Orange  paste,  powder,  N  paste,  R  Alizarine  Claret  R  paste. 

paste,  P  paste.  Ceruleine   paste  A,  paste  SVV   cone,   S,  S 

Alizarine  Brown    paste,  powder,  R  paste,  R  cone. 

powder,S  powder,  RD  powder,  N  paste,  Anthrol  Blue  NR,  NG. 

F  paste,  H  paste,  WR  paste. 

The  following  dyestufts  may  be  used  for  shading  upon  alum-mordanted  material,  without 
cooling  the  bath: 

Flavazine  S,  L,  T.  Brilliant  Orange  G,  O,  R. 

Azo  Yellow  O,  cone.  Amido  Naphtol  Red  G,  BE,  6  3. 

Victoria  Yellow  O,  cone,  double.  Rosazeine  O,  B,  G,  extra,  B  extra,  G  c.tra. 

Orange  G,  No.  2,  No.  4.  Fasf  Acid  Violet  B,  R,  A2R,  BE,  RGF,  RBE. 


136  General  mclliods  of  wool  dyeing. 


Fast  Acid  Eosine  G,  G  extra.  Milling  Blue  2R  extra. 

Fast  Acid   Phloxine  A,  A  extra.  Patent  Blue  A,  AJI,  AF. 

Fast  Acid  Magenta  G,  G  cone.  Naphtalene  Green  V,  cone. 
Acid  Violet  N,  5BF,  6BN,  GDI-,  3RA. 

2.  Chrome  Mordant. 

For  mordanting  wool  with  chrome,  bichromate  of  potash  is  used,  which,  under  the 
reducing  action  of  the  wool  substance,  is  fixed  on  the  wool  fibre  bj'  boiling.  The  chrome 
oxide,  however,  is  more  completely  fixed  on  wool  if  reducing  substances  are  present.  Instead 
of  bichromate  of  potash,  a  like  result  is  obtained  witli  bichromate  of  soda. 

The  method  mostly  adopted  for  the  production  of  chrome  mordant  is  as  follows: 

The  mordanting  balh  is  prepared  with  o"',.  bichromate  of  potash  and  2''2'',o  tartar,  and 
corrected  with  2— 10"o  acetic  acid,  if  the  water  is  hard.  The  goods  are  entered  at  15s°F., 
the  bath  heated  to  the  boil,  and  boiling  continued  for  about  l'/--  hours. 

For  dark  shades,  4",.  bichromate  of  potash  and  3"„  tartar;  for  light  shades,  1",„  bichro- 
mate of  potash  and  1  ",„  tartar  are  used. 

Loose  wool  is  often  left  lying  overnight  after  mordanting,  before  washing  and  dyeing. 
Piece  goods  and  yarns,  however,  should  be  well  hydroextracted  after  mordanting,  and  they 
must  not  be  left  lying  wet  overnight,  as  this  tends  to  produce  uneven  results. 

Wool  properl}'  mordanted  with  bichromate  of  potash  and  tartar,  should  have  a  pale 
greenish,  not  a  yellowish  or  brownish  colour.  In  the  interval  between  mordanting  and  dyeing, 
the  goods  should  be  kept  in  a  moist  condition  and  protected  from  the  direct  action  of  sun- 
light: any  bichrome  which  is  left  in  the  fibre  as  such,  is  reduced  in  dried  and  exposed  parts, 
whereby  the  mordant  in  these  places  is  strengthened,  and  the  goods  take  up  more  colouring 
matter  in  consequence. 

Instead  of  tartar,  other  auxiliary  mordants  may  be  employed  in  chrome  mordanting, 
which,  however,  though  cheaper  than  tartar,  mostlj'  show  one  or  more  drawbacks  in  com- 
parison with  it. 

The  bichrome  and  sulphuric  acid  mordant  is  much  employed: 

It  is  customary  to  mordant  with  3%  bichromate  of  potash  and  1  "o  sulphuric  acid  for 
medium  shades,  or  with  4"/„  bichromate  of  potash  and  1.5",o  sulphuric  acid  for  dark  shades, 
and  otherwise  to  proceed  in  the  same  manner  as  with  the  bichrome  and  tartar  bath. 

It  is  not  desirable  to  employ  the  bichrome  and  sulphuric  acid  mordant  for  pale  shades. 

In  tlie  case  of  hard  water,  the  quantity  of  sulphuric  acid  must  be  increased  by  0.5— 1.5"/,>, 
according  to  the  hardness  of  the  water. 

Owing  to  the  fact  that  when  mordanting  with  bichrome  and  sulphuric  acid,  the  chromic 
acid  liberated  by  the  sulphuric  acid,  is  reduced  and  fixed  on  the  wool  fibre  alone,  it  will  be 
easily  understood  that  in  this  case  larger  amounts  of  chromic  acid  are  left  unreduced  on  the 
fibre,  than  in  mordanting  with  bichrome  and  tartar.  Consequently,  the  bichrome  and  sulphuric 
acid  mordant  is  not  so  well  adapted  for  dyestuffs  which  are  sensitive  to  the  action  of  chromic 
acid,  and  therefore  produce  duller  colours;  e.  g.  Alizarine  Blue,  Galleine  and  Ceruleine;  on 
the  other  hand,  and  for  the  same  reason,  the  bichrome  and  sulphuric  acid  mordant  yields  good 
results  with  some  other  dycstufi's,  e.  g.  Alizarine  Red,  Alizarine  Orange,  Alizarine  Yellow  GGW 
and  R\V,  Mordant  Yellow,  and  Fast  Mordant  iiluc.  By  means  of  this  mordant,  the  above 
mentioned  dyestufl's  are  fixed  more  completely,  and  are  therefore  faster  to  bleeding  than  on 
a  bichrome  and  tartar  mordant,  whicli  contains  little  or  no  chromic  acid. 

In  recent  years  lactic  acid  has  been  widelj'  employed  as  an  auxiliary  mordant  in  place 
of  tartar;  it  is  used  as  free  acid  in  the  form  of  a  •'iO";'o  solution,  or  as  an  acid  potassium  salt, 
commercially  called  lactoline. 

Lactic  acid  has  a  stronger  reaction  than  tartar,  for  which  reason  less  reducing  agents 
are  required,  and  also,  owing  to  its  better  utilization  and  eflicacy  less  bichromate  of  potash 
is  needed  for  obtaining  the  same  results  as  with  tartar. 


Dyeing  on  a  Mordant.  137 


The  bath  is  therefore  prepared  with  2%  bichromate  of  potash,  3%  lactic  acid  of  50°/o 
and  l^  sulphuric  acid.  Water  containing  lime  is  corrected  in  the  same  manner  as  in  the 
case  of  bichrome  and  tartar  mordant.  The  wool  is  entered  at  1.58°  F.,  worked  for  '/a  hour 
at  this  temperature,  which  is  then  raised  to  the  boil  within  '/i  hour,  and  boihng  continued 
for  1  hour. 

It  is  essential  not  to  enter  the  material  at  a  higher  temperature  than  1.58°  F.,  nor  to 
raise  the  bath  to  the  boil  within  less  than  '/a  hour,  because  the  reducing  action  of  lactic  acid 
would  cause  a  too  rapid  and,  consequently,  too  irregular  and  superficial  mordanting,  and  free 
chrome  hydroxide  would  be  precipitated  in  the  bath. 

If  the  above  named  conditions  are  observed,  the  bichrome  and  lactic  acid  mordant  works 
very  economicallj'.  The  bichromate  of  potash  employed  is  almost  entirely  fi.xed  upon  the  fibre 
and  reduced,  so  that  there  remain  neither  any  considerable  quantities  of  chromium  salts  in 
the  liquid,  nor  any  unreduced  chromic  acid  on  the  fibre. 

It  is  on  that  account  that  this  mordant  gives  rather  better  results  than  the  bichrome  and 
tartar  mordant,  especially  with  dyestuffs  which  are  sensitive  to  chromic  acid,  such  as  Aliza- 
rine Blue,  Ceruleine  and  Galleine,  also  on  Indigo  bottom  which  is  destroj'ed  by  free  chromic 
acid.  In  all  cases  the  colours  turn  out  fuller  and  faster  to  milling  with  lactic  acid  than 
with  tartar. 

The  lactic  acid  bath  is  to  be  specially  recommended  for  dyeing  loose  wool  and  slubbing, 
also  yarns  for  medium  and  dark  shades.  For  light  shades  on  yarn,  the  use  of  lactic  acid  is 
less  advisable,  and  also  in  piece  dj'eing  it  is  preferable  to  use  tartar  instead  of  lactic  acid, 
particularly  in  the  case  of  closer  woven,  strongly  milled  and  thicker  textures. 

That  lactic  acid  works  less  favourably  in  the  aforementioned  cases  is  explained  b}'  its 
more  rapid  and  energetic  reducing  action  which,  however,  only  makes  itself  felt  at  a  higher 
temperature.  If.  e.  g.,  piece  goods  are  worked  with  lactic  acid  with  the  same  measure  of  pre- 
caution as  with  tartar,  the  mordant  does  not  sufficiently  penetrate  into  the  inner  parts  of  the 
goods,  owing  to  the  lower  initial  temperature  and  the  less  active  circulation  of  the  mordant 
bath.  The  result  is,  that  these  inner  parts  are  less  stronglj-  mordanted,  and  will  afterwards  d3'e 
ligliter  than  the  outer  parts,  so  that  the  goods  are  insufficiently  dyed  through. 

If,  however,  the  necessary  precautions  are  disregarded;  the  goods  being  entered  at  a 
higher  temperature,  and  the  same  raised  too  quickly  to  the  boil,  then  a  too  rapid  and  super- 
ficial reduction  of  the  bichromate  of  potash  and  precipitation  of  the  chrome  mordant  takes 
place,  with  the  result  that,  besides  imperfect  mordanting,  streaky  and  cloudy  places  are  produ- 
ced, which  in  dyeing  become  disagreeably  apparent. 

The  employment  of  lactoline  greatly  obviates  the  disadvantages  of  lactic  acid.  Lactoline 
has,  therefore,  been  particularly  favoured  in  piece  dyeing,  though  in  its  effect  it  scarcely  comes 
up  to  the  tartar,  which  acts  still  milder. 

On  the  other  hand,  and  in  addition  to  the  described  drawbacks  of  lactic  acid,  which 
naturally  must  tend  to  restrict  its  use,  one  of  its  advantages  may  be  mentioned.  The  employ- 
ment of  lactic  acid  which  produces  an  almost  complete  utilization  of  the  bichromate  of  potash, 
has  the  effect  that  at  the  end  of  the  mordanting  process,  no  chromium  salts  remain  in  the 
bath.  Consequently  the  mordant  bath  can  be  used  for  dyeing,  i.  e.  it  is  possible  to  dye  in  a 
single  bath.  It  is  advisable  to  reduce  the  quantity  of  chromium  a  little,  viz:  to  operate  with 
1.5 »'u  bichromate  of  potash,  3"'o  lactic  acid  and  l"o  sulphuric  acid.  The  operation  is  carried 
out  as  usual;  when  the  mordanting  is  finished,  the  bath  should  be  compietelj'  exhausted  and 
have  the  appearance  of  clear  water.  It  can  then  be  used  for  dyeing,  after  being  allowed  to 
cool  sufficiently. 

After  dyeing,  the  bath  may  be  again  used  for  mordanting,  and  it  is  obvious  therefore 
that  this  one  bath  method  brings  about  a  considerable  saving  of  steam. 

Quite  recentljr,  formic  acid  has  been  successfully  tried  in  place  of  tartar.  This  is  put 
upon  the  market  in  solutions  of  varying  concentrations  —  generally  one  of  85 "'o  —  and  is 
very  cheap. 

The  mordanting  bath  is  prepared  with  2%  bichromate  of  potash  and  2";'o  formic  acid 
85";,i,  and  worked  in  the  same  manner  as  the  bichrome  and  tartar  bath. 

yale 


138  General  methods  of  wool  dyeing. 


Formic  acid  has  a  great  reducing  power,  which,  though  not  quite  equalling  that  of  lactic 
acid,  is,  on  account  of  its  low  price,  probably  as  advantageous  as  the  latter.  The  colours  pro- 
duced with  formic  acid  do  not  turn  out  quite  as  clear  as  those  produced  with  lactic  acid,  but 
they  are  superior  to  those  obtained  upon  tartar  mordant. 

The  penetration  and  evenness  of  the  chrome  mordant  produced  by  means  of  formic 
acid,  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  lactic  acid  mordant;  it  is  therefore  advisable  to  restrict  the 
employment  of  formic  acid  in  the  same  measure  as  that  of  lactic  acid. 

In  addition  to  the  afore  described  most  important  mordanting  methods,  a  whole  series 
of  other  methods  have  been  recommended,  and  are  partlj'  in  use.  Of  these,  we  give  the 
following  instances: 

The  bichrome  and  oxalic  acid  mordant,  for  which  are  used:  1 — 4%  bichromate 
of  potash  and  1— 3°/o  oxalic  acid;  the  fluoride  of  chrome  and  oxalic  acid  mordant 
for  which  2 — 4  °'o  fluoride  of  chrome  and  2 — 4  °o  oxalic  acid  are  recommended,  and  the 
chromic  acid  mordant,  for  which  the  wool  is  first  treated  cold  with  1%  chromic  acid 
with  the  addition  of  2— 3°;o  sulphuric  acid.  The  former  is  then  reduced  bj'  adding  10  °o  sodium 
bisulphite,  and  the   goods  are  after-treated  in  a  new  warm  bath  with  5  "„  calc.  soda. 

These,  and  other  methods,  however,  are  but  seldom  employed.  It  would  carry  us  too 
far  to  describe  them  in  greater  detail. 

It  is  equally  superfluous  to  dwell  here  on  the  many  commercial  substitutes  of  tartar, 
which  consist  essentially  of  impure  lactic  acid  or  other  organic  acids  with  a  reducing  action, 
and  which  are  generally  employed  for  mordanting  in  the  same  manner  as  described  above. 
Whether  there  is  any  advantage  in  their  einployment  in  anj-  particular  case,  must  always  depend 
upon  special  trials  and  calculations,  in  view  of  their  difl'erent  composition. 

As  in  dyeing  upon  alum  mordant,  so  also  in  dj'eing  upon  chrome  mordanted  wool,  it 
is  to  be  considered  that  the  union  of  the  dyestuflf  with  the  mordant  fixed  upon  the  fibre  is 
a  verj'  rapid  and  intimate  one  in  a  hot  dyebath,  whereas  the  affinity  between  mordant  and 
dyestuff  is  much  less  pronounced  at  a  lower  temperature. 

In  order  to  obtain  even  shades,  and,  in  the  case  of  yarns  and  pieces,  also  thorough 
penetration,  it  is  necessary  to  begin  the  dyeing  operation  at  a  low  temperature,  raise  it  slowly- 
to  the  boil,  and  manipulate  the  material  well  during  dyeing. 

Whilst  almost  all  dyestuffs  when  used  upon  an  alum  mordant  necessitate  the  employment 
of  lime  for  the  production  of  bright  lakes,  lime  salts  act  unfavourabl}-  upon  the  weaker  acid 
chrome  mordant,  because  in  the  latter  case,  the  dyestufis  are  precipitated  in  the  dyebath  as 
lime  or  magnesium  lakes,  and  therefore  unite  only  imperfectly  with  the  chrome  mordant  fixed 
on  the  fibre. 

In  order  to  avoid  this  defect  and  to  fix  the  dyestufis  satisfactorily,  the  dyebath  is  correc- 
ted, according  to  the  hardness  of  the  water,  with  acetic  acid;  this  has  the  effect  that  all  the 
lime  and  magnesia  compounds  are  present  in  the  form  of  their  easily  soluble  acetic  acid  salts, 
which  can  no  longer  react  injuriouslj'  upon  the  dyeing  process.  This  addition,  which  is  necess- 
ary for  all  mordant  dyestufis,  amounts,  e.  g.  for  water  of  5  %  hardness  to  0.2,  of  10 "  „  hard- 
ness to  0,4  parts  acetic  acid  12"  Tw.  per  1000  parts  dye  liquor. 

In  addition  to  the  above,  the  majority  of  the  mordant  dyestuffs  require  a  still  further 
addition  of  acetic  acid.  Exempt  therefrom  are  the  paste  brands  of  Alizarine  Red,  Alizarine 
Orange,  Alizarine  Brown  and  Galleine;  in  their  case  an  excess  of  acetic  acid  does  not  allow 
the  colours  to  be  perfectly  exhausted,  and  fixes  them  incompletely;  they  require  therefore 
as  neutral  a  bath  as  possible.  Some  of  the  dyestuffs  are  used  as  sodium  salts  (most  of  the 
powder  brands  of  the  mordant  dyestufis)  and  their  colour  acid  has  to  be  liberated  with  acid; 
other  dyestuffs,  such  as  Alizarine  Blue,  Ceruleine,  Alizarine  Green  S,  Alizarine  Yellow  GGW  etc. 
require  a  larger  quantity  of  acid  on  account  of  their  chemical  composition,  for  their  better 
exhaustion  and  fixation. 

The  method  of  dyeing  with  mordant  dyestufis  to  be  adopted  under  normal  conditions 
is  the  following: 


Dyeing  on  a  Mordant.  139 


The  dyebath  is  first  charged  with  the  quantity  of  acetic  acid  (2—10%)  necessary  for 
correcting  the  water  and  for  the  dyestuffs  used;  then  the  colour  solution  is  added  through  a 
sieve,  and  the  goods  entered  at  86"  F.  They  are  worked  at  that  temperature  for  '/i  hour, 
the  bath  is  heated  to  the  boil  within  an  hour,  and  Isept  boiling  for  I'/z— 2hours. 

As  was  the  case  in  dyeing  upon  an  alum  mordant,  so  in  using  a  chrome  mordant  also,  it 
must  not  be  forgotten  that  the  lake,  once  formed  upon  the  fibre,  is  most  firmly  fixed  upon  it,  and 
that  equalization  and  even  results  cannot  be  produced  even  by  means  of  continued  boiling, 
as  is  so  often  done.  It  is  therefore  important  to  direct  one's  attention  from  the  beginning  to 
the  equal  attraction  of  the  colouring  matter.  This  is  effected,  provided  the  goods  are  clean 
and  the  mordant  has  been  well  and  evenly  fixed,  by  entering  them  at  a  low  temperature, 
raising  it  slowly  to  the  boil,  whilst  manipulating  the  material  continually',  and  completing  the 
lake  formation  by  boiling. 

This  method  of  dyeing  requires  some  modification  for  certain  dyestuffs,  viz:  those  named 
on  page  11.5,  which  must  only  be  dissolved  in  cold  water.  These  dyestuffs,  being  bisulphite 
compounds,  especially  the  Alizarine  Blue  and  Ceruleine  brands,  possess  a  greater  solubility 
than  the  corresponding  non-bisulphite  brands,  and  are  therefore  more  suitable  for  dyeing  in 
an  apparatus  and  for  piece  goods,  where  solubility  is  essential. 

Seeing,  however,  that  the  bisulphite  compound  disunites  at  140—158°  F.  and  above,  and 
that  therefore  a  dyestuff  is  regenerated  which  dissolves  with  greater  difficulty,  the  tem- 
perature must,  in  these  cases,  not  be  raised  to  more  than  140"  F.  and  be  kept  at  this  heat 
until  the  dyebath  is  nearly  exhausted.  Only  then  may  it  be  raised  to  the  boil,  and  the  lake 
formation  be  completed. 

Besides  the  regulation  of  the  temperature,  there  is  another  means  of  controUing  and 
retarding  the  attraction  of  the  colouring  matter  to  the  fibre,  viz:  the  employment  of  alkalies, 
especially  ammonia.  These  alkalies  combine  with  the  colour  acids  to  form  easily  soluble  salts  which 
remain  in  the  dyebath,  even  at  boiling  heat,  and  allow  the  dyestuff  to  be  taken  up  very  slowly 
and  imperfectly  by  the  fibre.  Only  an  addition  of  acetic  acid  liberates  the  colour  acids,  which 
then  unite  with  the  wool  fibre.  In  all  cases  where  ammonia  is  used  for  dyeing  with  mordant 
dyestuffs,  the  employment  of  pure  water  is  of  the  greatest  importance,  as,  otherwise,  dyestuft 
would  be  lost  through  precipitation  of  lime  and  magnesium  salts  of  the  colour  acids,  and  a 
thorough  penetration  would  be  almost  impossible. 

In  order  to  increase  the  evenness  and  penetration  in  the  case  of  yarns  and  piece  goods 
which  do  not  easily  dye  through,  also  of  hat  bodies  and  for  the  production  of  light  shades  upon 
yarns  and  cloths,  the  following  method  is  customary: 

The  dyebath  is  charged  with  5%  acetate  of  ammonia,  so  that  the  dye  liquid  has  a 
slightly  alkaline  reaction.  The  dyestuff  being  added,  the  goods  are  entered  at  the  usual  tem- 
perature, which  is  raised  to  the  boil  within  an  hour,  and  only  after  boiling  for  '/•- ^/i  hour, 
the  necessary  quantity  of  acetic  acid  is  slowly  added,  and  after  the  colouring  matter  is  taken 
up,  the  lake  formation  is  completed  by  1 — 1'/2  hours  boiling. 

A  similar  method  is  adopted  in  dyeing  on  mechanical  apparatus:  for  producing  perfect 
penetration,  and  in  order  to  avoid  the  filtration  of  the  colour  and  to  prevent  paste  dyestuffs 
which  are  not  fully  dissolved  in  the  comparatively  small  quantity  of  water,  from  depositing 
themselves  on  the  fibre,  soluble  ammonia  salts  of  the  colour  acids  are  formed  in  the  dyebath 
by  the  addition  of  ammonia,  and  the  colour  acid  is  liberated  only  at  the  end  of  the  dyeing  operation. 
The  dyebath  is  therefore  prepared  with  the  requisite  quantity  of  dyestuff,  which  is 
previously  mixed  with  water,  and  is  added  to  the  bath  through  a  sieve,  and  with  2-  3  "/o  am- 
monia, so  that  it  has  a  slightly  alkaline  reaction.  The  liquor  is  then  allowed  to  circulate,  and 
heated  to  the  boil;  after  boiling  for  an  hour,  acetic  acid  is  gradually  added  (most  conveniently 
through  a  dripping  funnel)  to  the  bath,  and  the  latter,  when  exhausted,  boiled  for  another 
1 — I'/s  hours,  in  order  to  develop  the  colour  lakes. 

The  affinity  of  the  ammonium  salts  of  the  colour  acids  for  the  mordant  is  so  slight, 
that  the  dyeing  in  a  mechanical  apparatus  can  be  begun  with  hot  solutions  —  at  140"  F.  — 
and  the  dye  liquids  may  then  be  used  over  again  for  further  lots;  however,  the  acid  must  be 
neutralized  with  ammonia,  before  replenishing  with  fresh  colour. 


140  General  methods  of  wool  dyeing. 


For  the  one-bath  method,  i.  c,  for  using  the  mordant  bath  for  dyeing  also,  —  which 
operation  can  be  carried  out  in  connection  with  the  bichrome-Iactic  and  sulphuric  acid 
mordant,  (compare  page  137)  —  the  following  procedure  is  to  be  observed: 

After  fixing  the  mordant  completely  upon  the  wool,  —  which  is  shown  by  the  liquid 
becoming  colourless  like  water,  the  bath  is  cooled  down  to  about  122°  F.  and  neutralized  with 
ammonia,  after  which  the  requisite  dyestufls  are  added,  the  temperature  raised  to  the  boil, 
and  after  boiling  for  '/s  hour  some  more  acetic  acid  is  added,  and  boiling  continued  until  the 
bath  is  exhausted.    After  dyeing,  the  bath  may  be  used  again  for  mordanting. 

By  adhering  to  these  directions,  level  results  upon  chrome  mordant,  and  thorough  pene- 
tration are  obtained.  But  since  the  dyestuff,  which  is  added  to  the  dyebath  at  the  beginning, 
is  rarely  suflicient  to  produce  the  desired  shade,  a  further  addition  of  dyestuff  during  the 
dyeing  operation  is  generally  necessary  for  dyeing  to  pattern.  If,  for  tliis  purpose,  it  seems 
necessary  to  add  mordant  dyestuft's  to  the  dyebath,  it  is  important  to  take  into  consideration 
that  they  are  liable,  in  a  hot  acid  bath,  to  form  lakes  quicklj'  and  thus  equalize  badly. 

It  is  therefore  customary  to  cool  the  bath  down  to  122—140"  F.  before  adding  the 
dyestuff  solution  which,  in  dj-eing  loose  wool,  should  be  poured  evenly  over  the  material.  In 
dyeing  yarn,  the  latter  should  be  lifted,  the  colour  is  quickly  and  evenly  distributed,  and  the 
yarn  then  well  worked  through  the  liquid.  Finally,  the  temperature  is  again  slowly  raised  to 
the  boil. 

In  those  cases  where  the  dyeing  operation  is  begun  with  ammonia  or  acetate  of  ammonia, 
the  bath  must  not  only  be  cooled  down,  but  also  again  neutralized  before  a  further  addition 
of  dyestuff  is  made;  and  after  heating  it  again  to  the  boil  and  boiling  for  some  time,  acetic 
acid  is  added  and  the  dyestufi"  precipitated  upon  tlie  fibre. 

After  adding  mordant  dyestuflls  the  lake  formation  must  be  brought  about  by  boiling 
sufficientlj^,   lest   the   results  should   be   of  inferior  fastness  and  brightness,  and  liable  to  rub. 

When  the  shade  is  nearly  up  to  pattern,  it  is  advisable  to  complete  the  matching  with 
equalizing  fast  acid  dyestuRs  which  can  be  added  to  the  bath  at  the  boil,  and  do  not  neces- 
sitate long  continued  boiling  in  order  to  fix  themselves  evenly  upon  the  material.  Experience 
shows  that  such  small  quantities  of  acid  dyestuffs  in  no  way  impair  the  fastness  of  mordant 
colours. 

The  undermentioned  mordant  dyestufis  are  suitable  for  dyeing  upon  chrome  mordant: 
Alizarine  Yellow  paste,   5G,   GGW  powder,  Alizarine  Blue  SB  paste.  SB  powder,  SBW 

GGW  paste,  RW  powder,  RW  paste.  paste    SBW   powder,   SR   paste,   SR 

Mordant  Yellow  O.  powder,  SRW  paste,   SRW  powder. 

Acid  Alizarine  Yellow  RC.  SBR  paste,   SBR  powder,  S2R  paste. 

Alizarine    Orange    paste,   powder,   N   paste,  SRX  paste. 

R  paste,  P  paste.  Anthrol  Blue  NR,  NG. 

Alizarine  Red,  all  paste  brands,  lWS,:i\VS,  PS.  Galleine  paste  A,  paste  R,  paste  R  double, 

Alizarine  Claret  R  paste.  cone,  W  powder. 

Alizarine    Brown    paste,    powder,    R   paste,  Ceruleine  paste  A,   paste  SW,  paste  B,  BR 

R   powder,   S   powder,    RD   powder,  paste,  cone,  S,  S  cone,  BWR. 

N   paste,   G  paste,   F  paste,   H  paste.  Alizarine  Green  S  paste. 

WR  paste.  Acid  Alizarine  Blue  BB,  GR. 

Alizarine  Blue  B,  F,  A,  DN,  DNW,  R,  RR,  Aliz.nrine  Direct  Blue  B. 

042,  942g.  Alizarine   Direct  Green  G. 

Alizarine  Dark  Blue  S,  SV. 

Besides  the  above  named  real  mordant  dyestufl's,  the  foilowinf;  clirotno  devtloping 
dyestuffs  can  be  used  on  chrome  mordant,  owing  to  their  property  of  forming  lakes  with  the 
chromium  o.xide  deposited  upon  the  fibre.  They  arc  therefore  much  used  in  combination 
with  the  mordant  dyestuffs.  Their  lake  formation  is  always  more  or  less  complete,  but  their 
fastness  is  considerably  enhanced  and  in  some  cases  becomes  perfect  if  the  dyed  material  is 
finally  aficrtreated  with  0.25— 0.5%  bichromate  of  potash  (provided,  of  course,  that  the  mor- 
dant dyestuffs  employed  withstand  this  addition). 


Dyeing  on  a  Mordant. 


141 


Dianil  Fast  Red  PH. 

Acid  Alizarine  Red  G,  B. 

Acid  Alizarine  Grenade  R. 

Acid  Alizarine  Violet  N. 

Acid    Alizarine    Brown    R,    B,    BB,    T,    RH 

extra,  RP. 
Fast  Mordant  Blue  R,  B,  RT,  BT,  BBR, 

Acid  dyestufts  suitable  for  final  matching 
Flavazine  S,  L. 
Flavazine  T. 
Azo  Yellow  O,  cone. 
Victoria  Yellow  O,  double,  cone. 
Orange  G,  No.  2,  No.  4 
Brilliant  Orange  G,  O,  R. 
Azo  Acid  Red  B,  5B. 
Amido  Naphtol   Red  G,  BB,  (iB. 
Azo  Acid  Carmine  B. 
Fast  Acid  Violet  B,  R,  A2R,  BE,  RGE,  RBE. 


Acid  Alizarine  Blue  WE,  WEB  cone. 

Acid  Alizarine  Blue  Black  3B. 

Acid  Alizarine  Grey  G. 

Acid  Alizarine  Black  oB  extra,  3B,  R,  R  extra, 
RG,   RH,   T,   TG,   AC,  SE  paste,  SE 
powder,    SET    paste,     SET    powder, 
SN,  SNT. 
on  chrome  mordant  are  the  following: 

Fast  Acid  Eosine  G,  G  extra. 

Fast  Acid  Phloxine  A,  A  extra. 

Fast  Acid  Magenta  G,  G  cone. 

Fast  Acid  Blue  R,  R  cone. 

Milling  Blue  2R  extra. 

Acid  Violet  N,  5BF,  3RA,  GBL,  6BN. 

Patent  Blue   A,  AJI,  AF. 

Alizarine  Direct  Blue  EoB,  EB. 

Naphtalene  Green  V,  cone. 


H'2  General  methods  of  wool  dyeing. 


VII.  Vat  Dyeing. 

Ill  the  dyeing  metliods  hitherto  discussed,  the  dyebaths  are  prepared  with  dyestufls 
whicli  are  soluble  in  water;  vat  dyeing,  on  the  other  hand,  employes  such  dyeslufTs  as  are 
in  tiiemselves  insoluble  in  water.  The  consequence  is,  that  their  method  of  dyeing  diflers 
entirely  from  all  other  methods  both  in  its  chemical  aspect  and  its  procedure. 

The  dyestufls  suitable  for  vat  dj'eing  are  the  so-called  vat  colours,  i.  e.,  colouring 
substances  which  are  capable  of  being  reduced  into  alkali  soluble  leuco  compounds  and  are 
fixed  in  this  form  upon  the  fibre;  they  are  then  retransformed,  by  spontaneous  oxidation  in  ihe 
open  air,  into  insoluble  dyestufls,  and  thus  produce  the  coloured  efl'ect  upon  the  fibre. 

Of  the  various  vat  colours  hitherto  known,  it  is  in  the  first  place  Indigo  and  a  few 
derivatives  thereof,  which  are  applicable  to  wool  dyeing. 

Indigo  is  one  of  the  oldest  dyestufls,  and  has  from  very  ancient  times  played  an  important 
part  in  dyeing.  L'ntil  a  few  ye^rs  ago  known  to  the  dj-er  exclusively  as  a  natural  product 
of  varying  purity  and  productiveness,  it  is  now  artificially  produced  and  placed  upon  the 
market  by  the  Farbwerke  Hoechst,  as  Indigo  MLIS,  in  various  forms,  adapted  to  their  particular 
mode  of  employment,  of  unvarying  purity  and  uniform  concentration. 

It  is  now  hardly  necessary  to  mention  that  the  colouring  matter  of  the  plant  Indigo 
and  that  of  the  synthetic  product  are  identical  as  regards  their  chemical  and  tinctorial  character, 
and  represent  one  and  the  same  substance,  Indigotine,  so  that  all  rules  and  experiences  gained 
in  vat  dyeing  with  natural  Indigo,  equally  apply  to  the  synthetic  product.  There  is  only  one 
dift'erence,  namely,  that  artificial  Indigo  is  oftered  for  sale,  always  in  its  purest  form,  free 
from  all  injurious  and  extraneous  substances,  and  consequently  in  a  better  and  cheaper  con- 
dition than  the  natural  product. 

The  advantages  of  the  synthetic  Indigo  are  so  evident  —  though  introduced  only  a  few 
years  ago  —  that  they  have  caused  the  natural  product  to  be  greatly  superseded,  and  the 
employment  of  Indigo  in  the  wool  industry,  especially  in  fdst  wool  dyeing,  to  be  enormously 
increased.  We  perceive  that,  since  the  appearance  of  synthetic  Indigo,  in  a  great  many  cases 
where  formerly  artificial  blue  dyestufls  had  displaced  natural  Indigo  by  virtue  of  their  cheapness 
and  more  convenient  application,  the  synthetic  product  now  takes  their  place,  reconquering 
not  only  the  old  domain  which  natural  Indigo  once  held,  but  ever  acquiring  new  fields. 

This  preference  for  synthetic  Indigo  is  justified  not  only  by  its  purity,  cheapness  and  une- 
qualled fastness,  but  must  also  partly  he  attributed  to  its  improved  method  of  application, 
above  all,  to  that  introduced  by  the  Farbwerke  Hoechst,  by  means  of  the  improved  Hydro- 
sulphite  vat.  Before  occupying  ourselves  more  particularly  with  the  latter,  and  also  with  the 
fermentation  vat  which  has  to  be  considered  for  the  purposes  of  wool  dyeing,  we  will  first 
describe  the  conditions  under  which  dj'eing  in  the  vat  may  be  carrid  out. 

1.  General  Aspect  of  Vat  Dyeing. 

In  its  essential  composition,  a  vat  —  no  matter  whether  hydrosulpliite,  woad,  soda  or 
any  other  kind  of  vat  —  represents  a  solution,  free  from  oxygen,  in  water  of  the  alkali  compound 
of  Indigo  white  which  is  suitable  for  dyeing  at  a  temperature  of  113 — 122"F.  The  material  is  immer- 
sed in  this  solution,  and  allowed  to  remain  therein  for  a  certain  period;  when  taken  out  of  the  vat 
it  shows  a  blueish  green  colour,  which,  on  being  exposed  to  the  influence  of  the  atmosphere, 
will  quickly  change  into  the  pure  blue  colour  of  Indigo.   Each  of  these  immersions  is  termed  a  dip. 

By  repeating  the  operation  with  the  same  material  in  the  same  vat,  i.  e.,  by  giving 
it  a  second  dip,  a  shade  is  obtained  about  double  the  depth  of  the  first,  and  by  further 
increasing  the  number  of  dips,  the  shade  becomes  correspondingly  intensified.  The  regulation 
of  the  number  of  dips  afibrds,  therefore,  a  simple  niean§  of  determining  the  depth  of  the 
resultant  shades. 

A  further  means  of  attaining  the  same  object  is  by  controlling  the  concentration  of  the 
vat  liquor.    The  greater  the  quantity  of  Indigo  contained  in  the  vat,  the  deeper  is  the  shade. 


Vat  dyeing.  143 

A  third  means,  is  the  length  of  time  which  tlie  material  is  allowed  to  remain  in  the  vat  during 
the  operation  of  dyeing.  The  more  extended  the  time  for  each  dip,  the  darker  the  shade, 
although   the   deepening   of  the  shade  does  not  keep  pace  with  the  length  of  time  of  the  dip. 

There  are,  then,  three  means  at  one's  disposal  of  arriving  at  the  shade  required,  of 
wliich  the  concentration  of  the  vat,  and  the  number  of  dips,  are  used  for  getting  near  the 
desired  shade,  whereas  the  adjustment  of  time  of  the  last  dip  serves  as  a  supplementary 
method  of  dyeing  accurately  to  pattern. 

As  regards  matching,  the  peculiarity  of  vat  dyeing  has  to  be  considered,  (apart  from 
the  fact  that  the  shcde  can  only  be  judged  after  the  complete  o.xidation  of  the  Indigo  white). 
The  material,  when  taken  out  of  the  vat,  carries  with  it  the  Indigo  white  solution,  partly 
■  chemically  fixed,  partly  however,  only  mechanically  adhering  to  the  fibre.  On  exposure  to 
the  air,  the  Indigo  blue  is  formed,  and  therefore  the  particles  which  are  only  superficially 
attached  to  the  wool  fibre,  impart  to  it  a  deeper  shade;  however,  the  succeeding  operations 
to  which  the  material  is  subjected,  especially  those  of  washing  and  milling,  will  remove  the 
incompletely  fixed  Indigo  from  the  fibre,  so  that  the  final  shade  is  naturally  lighter  than  when 
first  matched  direct  from  the  vat.  The  loss  in  shade  will,  however,  be  slight  in  well  con- 
ditioned vats  and  on  cleansed  material. 

In  order  to  minimise  as  much  as  possible  the  loss  of  only  mechanically  fixed  Indigo, 
various  suitable  mechanical  contrivances  have  been  constructed  for  removing  the  excess  of 
vat  liquor  from  the  goods.  They  are  passed  through  squeezing  rollers  immediately  after  leaving 
the  vat;  by  this  means  the  colour  becomes  faster,  and  waste  of  Indigo  is  more  or  less  avoided. 

These  squeezing  apparatus  are  suitable  above  all  for  hydrosulphite  vats,  but  are  also 
very  serviceable  for  fermentation  vats,  especially  when  these,  as  is  often  done,  are  recharged 
with  reduced  Indigo,  as  e.  g.  Indigo  MLB/W. 

For  the  above  named  reasons,  vat  blues  are  matched  either  by  comparing  the  shade 
with  an  unwashed  pattern  (which  is  done  to  save  time)  or,  more  exactly,  by  washing  a  pattern 
after  oxidizing  it  first  in  hot  water  —  and  then  comparing  it  with  the  sample.  In  matching,  it 
is,  however,  alwaj's  necessary  to  take  into  consideration  the  alterations  in  shade  which  take 
place  in  the  finishing  operations.  At  the  same  time,  the  aun  of  the  dj'er  must  be  so  to  regu- 
late the  condition  of  the  vat,  that  the  difference  between  the  unwashed  and  washed  result  is 
as  slight  as  possible,  for  all  the  Indigo  washed  off  during  the  various  processes  is  lost,  and 
therefore  this  means  an  increase  in  the  cost  of  the  dj-eing  operation. 

In  order  to  comprehend  the  methods  bj'  which  this  final  object  is  achieved,  it  is  neces- 
sar)'  to  investigate  more  closely  the  reactions  which  take  place  in  the  vat,  and  their  effects. 
The  Indigo  white  held  in  solution  in  the  vat  liquid  in  the  form  of  an  alkali  salt,  possesses  an 
affinitj-  for  the  wool  fibre,  and  is  capable  of  entering  into  combination  with  it,  similarly  to  an 
acid  dyestuft':  evidently  the  wool  substance  assumes  the  part  of  the  base,  the  Indigo  white 
that  of  the  acid.  The  Indigo  white  which  is  thus  chemically  combined  with  the  fibre,  becomes 
oxidized  later  to  insoluble  Indigo  blue,  and  remains  permanently  fixed  with  the  wool,  those 
portions  of  the  Indigo  white  solution,  however,  which  were  only  held  superficially  by  the  fibre, 
do  not  become  fixed  and  are  removed  by  subsequent  washing. 

Free  Indigo  white  acid  is  a  compound  which  is  only  slightly  soluble  in  water,  and  must 
therefore  be  converted  into  one  of  its  alkali  salts  before  it  can  be  dissolved  in  the  vat,  and 
enter  into  reaction  with  the  wool  fibre.  Owing  to  the  very  mild  acid  character  of  the  free 
Indigo  white,  however,  the  alkali  added  to  the  vat  reacts  also  as  a  regulator  of  the  affinity 
between  Indigo  white  and  the  wool  substance,  in  a  similar  manner  as  the  mordant  dyestufl's, 
which  from  a  chemical  point  of  view  are  to  be  considered  as  weak  acids.  In  a  properly  con- 
trolled vat,  the  amount  of  alkali  should  only  be  sufficient  to  effect  the  solution  of  the  Indigo 
white,  and  to  retain  it  in  this  state  until  it  has  combined  with  the  wool  fibre. 

If  the  vat  liquid  contains  too  little  alkali,  the  Indigo  white  is  absorbed  very  rapidly  by 
the  fibre,  or  may  even  be  precipitated  in  the  bath.  The  consequence  is  that  the  material,  — 
especially  piece  goods,  —  is  not  dyed  through,  or  is  entirely  spoiled  in  dyeing.  On  the  other 
hand,  an  excess  of  alkali  in  the  hydrosulphite  vat  retards  the  dyeing,  and  therefore  promotes 
even  penetration  throughout  the  goods;  but  it  also  impedes  the  dyeing  by  retaining  the  Indigo 


144  General  methods  of  wool  dyeing. 


white  in  solution,  i.  e.,  the  more  alkali  there  is  in  the  vat  liquid,  the  lighter  will  be  the  resul- 
ting shades. 

In  fermentation  vats  an  excess  of  alkali  obstructs  the  process  of  fermentation,  so  that 
in  such  over-limed  vats,  badly  penetrated,  grey  and  useless  results  are  obtained.  Moreover, 
an  excess  of  fixed  alkali  is  also  injurious  in  another  respect,  namely,  to  the  quality  of  the 
wool.  Apart  from  ammonia,  free  alkali  exerts  a  destructive  influence  on  the  wool  substance, 
and  this  to  a  greater  degree,  the  higher  the  temperature  employed.  It  is  therefore  important 
to  avoid  an  excess  of  alkali,  and  for  the  same  reason  the  temperature  of  the  vat  must  not  be 
raised  during  the  dyeing  operation  above  113—122"  F.,  although  the  wool  absorbs  considerably 
more  Indigo  at  a  higher  temperature.  The  dyer  should,  therefore,  be  able  to  discriminate 
between  the  excess  of  alkali  whicli  retards  the  dyeing  process  and  impairs  the  quality  of  the 
goods,  and  the  deficiency  of  it  which  results  in  an  imperfect  penetration  and  insufficient  fixation. 

Besides,  care  must  be  taken  that  the  Indigo  in  the  dye  liquor  is  in  a  perfectly 
reduced  state  throughout  the  dyeing  operation:  that  there  is  no  actual  Indigo  blue  in  the 
vats  when  entering  the  goods,  and  that  it  is  not  formed  in  the  liquid  during  dyeing,  by  improper 
manipulation,  either  by  contact  with  the  oxygen  in  the  air,  or  by  bringing  air  into  the  vats 
together  with  the  goods.  Otherwise,  the  particles  of  Indigo  blue  formed  in  this  way  become 
only  mechanically  fixed  on  the  fibre,  and  are  ultimately  removed  again,  thus  causing  loose 
colours  and  loss  of  dyestutT. 

The  methods  to  be  employed  in  order  to  set  the  vats  properly,  and  also  the  modes  of 
working  them,  vary  considerably  in  the  case  of  fermentation  and  of  hydrosulphite  vats. 

2.  Fermentation  Vats. 
The  working  of  the  fermentation  vat. 

The  fermentation  vat  represents  the  oldest  of  all  methods  for  utilizing  the  colouring 
properties  of  Indigo,  and  has  been  employed  from  very  ancient  times.  Us  application  was 
brought  about  by  observing  certain  phenomena  of  nature,  but  it  is  now  often  varied  very 
considerably,  according  to  local  conditions.  Natural  Indigo  is  obtained  from  the  Indigo  plant 
by  a  process  of  fermentation  which  is  due  to  the  existence  of  microbes;  these  become  active 
under  suitable  conditions,  liberate  hydrogen,  and  thus  etVect  the  reduction  of  Indigo  to 
Indigo  white. 

The  task  of  the  dyer  in  working  the  fermentation  vat,  is  therefore  not  a  direct  one; 
it  is  restricted,  rather,  to  the  creation  and  maintenance  of  conditions  under  which  bacteria 
thrive.  Tlie  principal  procedure  in  the  fermentation  vat,  is,  tiierefore,  the  study  of  tiie  life 
process  of  these  microorganisms. 

The  bacteria  which  bring  about  the  fermentation  are  extraordinarily  abundant;  they 
are  found  in  the  atmosphere,  especially  in  Indigo  dye  works,  in  such  quantities  that,  generally, 
the  dyer  need  not  pay  any  particular  attention  to  their  generation  and  cultivation.  They  are 
also  present  in  woad,  the  substance  used  for  setting  (what  is  known  as  the)  bastard  vats,  and 
in  natural  Indigo  from  the  initial  stage  of  its  production. 

In  synthetic  Indigo  bacteria  are  not  present  originally;  this  fact  justly  accounts  for  the 
slight  differences  in  behaviour  between  vegetable  and  artificial  Indigo,  which  are  sometimes 
observed  in  the  setting  and  working  of  fermentation  vats  with  either  the  one  or  the  other 
product.  In  practice,  this  is  taken  into  consideration,  by  often  setting  fresh  vats  with  the 
residues  of  natural  vats,  or  by  using  a  few  pailfuls  of  the  liquid  of  a  well-conditioned  fermenta- 
tion vat.  The  best  way  of  proceeding  in  that  case,  is  to  pour  the  old  vat  liquor  over  the 
artificial  Indigo,  which  is  mixed  with  the  necessary  fernientatives  (syrup,  bran  etc.)  and  to 
let  the  whole  stand  for  24  hours  before  adding  it  to  the  new  blue  vats. 

When  it  is  remembered  that  in  a  vat  set  solely  with  natural  Indigo,  fresh  quantities 
of  bacteria  are  introduced  with  every  addition  of  it,  whilst  this  is  not  the  case  with  artificial 
Indigo,  it  is  evident  that  a  more  intense  fermentation  sets  in  when  the  former  product  is  used 
exclusively,  and  that  therefore,  a  vat  containing  synthetic  Indigo  only,  requires  less  lime  than 
the  one  containing  vegetable  Indigo. 


Fermentation  Vats.  145 


The  life  process  of  the  bacteria  and,  consequently,  the  course  of  fermentation,  is  rendered 
possible  by  an  adequate  supply  of  sugar  or  carbo-hydrates  producing  sugar,  such  as  syrup, 
flour,  starch,  dough,  rice  flour,  rice  water,  dates,  raisin?,  honey,  bran,  etc.  The  bacteria  split 
up  the  sugar  compounds  into  various  organic  acids,  such  as  acetic,  lactic,  butyric  acids,  along 
with  carbonic  acid,  liberating  hydrogen,  which  reacts  on  the  Indigo  blue,  transforming  it  into 
Indigo  white. 

The  immediate  result  of  the  fermentation,  therefore,  shows  an  acid  reaction  which,  per 
se  does  not  lend,  itself  to  the  proper  formation  of  a  vat,  i.  e.,  of  an  alkaline  solution  of 
Indigo  white.  To  accomplish  this,  an  addition  of  alkali  is  necessary  for  the  twofold  purpose 
of  dissolving  the  formed  Indigo  white,  and  to  neutralize  the  acids  generated  during  the 
process  of  fermentation. 

The  fermentation,  therefore,  must  take  place  in  an  alkaline  medium.  For  this  purpose 
lime  and  soda  find  most  general  application  in  European  countries,  whilst  in  other  districts, 
according  to  local  conditions,  other  alkalies  and  alkaline  materials,  such  as  potash  and  the 
ashes  of  plants,  are  employed. 

The  addition  of  alkali  has  also  a  moderating  and  retarding  influence  upon  the  process 
of  fermentation,  and  prevents  a  too  vigorous  and  excessive  activity  of  the  bacteria.  In  the 
event  of  too  rapid  fermentation,  the  generation  of  hydrogen  gas  "becomes  so  strong  that  the 
whole  vat  liquid,  including  the  sediment,  is  disturbed,  and  dyeing  rendered  impossible.  At 
the  same  time,  the  excess  of  hydrogen  is  liable  frequently  to  destroy  a  considerable  portion, 
if  not  the  whole  of  the  Indigo  in  the  vat :  "the  vat  has  run  away". 

The  proper  control  of  the  fermentation  process  by  regulating  the  amount  of  alkali  to 
be  added,  in  order  to  prevent  any  loss  of  Indigo  is,  therefore,  one  of  the  most  important 
tasks  of  the  dyer.  Nevertheless,  the  actual  losses  of  Indigo  in  the  fermentation  vat  are  quite 
considerable  and,  owing  to  the  above  complex  reactions,  the  conversion  of  Indigo  blue  to 
Indigo  white  is  neither  a  smooth  nor  a  regular  process.  It  is  therefore  not  very  surprising 
that,  in  spite  of  the  greatest  accuracy  in  setting,  and  the  most  careful  attention,  fermentation 
vats  do  not  dye  regularly  one  day  with  another. 

The  recipes  for  setting  a  fresh  fermentation  vat  differ  most  widelj',  according  to  the 
personal  experience  of  the  dyer,  the  local  conditions,  and  the  fermentatives  and  alkalies 
employed.  As  it  would  lead  us  too  far  to  enumerate  the  various  recipes,  we  will  content 
ourselves  with  giving  only  two  examples,  the  Soda  Vat  and  the  Woad  Vat.  Of  course,  any 
mode  of  working  with  natural  Indigo  is  applicable  also,  in  the  same  manner,  for  synthetic 
Indigo  MLB. 

Soda  Vat.  Woad  Vat. 

Vat  capacity:  2200  gallons.  Capacity:  2200  gallons. 

16'/2  lbs.  Madder  132     lbs.  Woad 

22        „    Syrup  44      „    Madder 

66        „     Bran  16'/s  „     Solvay  Soda 

44        „     Solvay  Soda  22      „    Syrup 

3.3         „     Indigo  MLB  paste.  55      „     Bran 

6'/s  „     Lime 
33      „    Indigo  MLB  paste. 

Soda  vats  are  heated  to  130  —  140°  F.;  woad  vats  to  150 — 160°  F.  before  the  fermentation 
ingredients  are  added.  It  is  customary  to  soak  the  woad  in  warm  water  for  a  day  previous 
to  its  being  added  to  the  vat.  The  liquid  is  then  thoroughly  stirred  for  some  time,  covered 
up,  and  allowed  to  rest  for  about  24  hours. 

In  most  cases  a  slight  fermentation  will  commence  after  the  expiration  of  this  time, 
which  can  be  ascertained  by  gas  bubbles  rising  to  the  surface  on  pushing  the  rake  into  the 
sediment;  also  by  the  liquid  having  a  greenish  tint  and  a  sweetish  smell. 

The  vat  is  now  again  well  stirred;  as  soon  as  the  process  of  fermentation  becomes 
more  pronounced  (which  may  be  seen  by  the  pale  green  hue  of  the  liquor),  a  small  quantity 

lOIe 


146  General  methods  of  wool  dyeing. 

of  lime  should  be  added.  As  a  rule,  an  active  fermentation  does  not  set  in  before  36—48 
hours;  the  vat  then  appears  a  yellowish-green  —  "it  has  come  on". 

Then  commences  the  operation  of  "sharpening",  by  the  addition,  at  intervals  of  1—2  hours, 
of  small  quantities  of  lime,  accompanied  each  time  by  careful  stirring  of  the  vat  liquor,  until 
the  fermentation  has  been  reduced  to  a  minimum,  and  the  original  sweetish  smell  has  given 
way  to  one  of  greater  pungency.  After  having  settled,  the  vat  liquor  should  now  appear  a  clear 
greenish -yellow,  showing  blue  coherent  veins  and  streaks,  and  be  covered  with  a  coppery 
film  or  flurry. 

A  trial  with  a  small  quantity  of  wool  will  serve  to  indicate  whether  the  operation  of 
dyeing  may  be  preceded  with.  The  vat  may  be  replenished  daily  during  the  next  2 — 3  days, 
with  10 — 20  lbs.  Indigo  MLB  paste,  along  with  the  requisite  quantities  of  fermentatives  etc., 
bluing  daily  only  one  or  two  lots,  until  the  vat  has  become  sufficiently  strong  to  be  worked 
regularly. 

The  temperature  of  the  soda  vat  should  not  exceed  122"  F.,  whereas  the  woad  vat  may 
be  raised  to  130—140°  F.  The  soda  vat  is  mostly  used  for  lighter  shades,  because  these  turn 
out  somewhat  brighter  and  redder  in  it,  than  in  the  woad  vat,  whilst  darker  shades  are  more 
advantageously  dyed  in  the  latter. 

When  dj'eing  in  either  vat,  the  material  is  given  several  dips,  even  for  light  blue  shades, 
except  for  so  called  points,  viz:  light  blues  which  are  to  be  topped  with  other  dj-estufls  after- 
wards. This  is  done  partlj'  to  obtain  greater  evenness,  partly  because  a  shade  obtained  in 
several  dips  is  bloomier  and  redder  than  the  same  depth  of  shade  obtained  in  a  stronger  vat 
by  a  smaller  number  of  dips. 

The  time  necessary  for  thoroughly  reducing  the  regular  Indigo  additions  in  the  fermen- 
tation vat,  is  considerable,  and  8 — 10  hours  must  elapse  before  the  vat  is  again  in  a  proper 
working  condition.  Consequentl}',  it  is  usual  to  dye  as  much  wool  as  possible  during  the 
daytime,  and  to  replenish  the  vats  towards  evening  with  the  requisite  additions  of  Indigo  and 
fermentatives,  soda  and  lime,  then  to  stir  the  vats  thoroughly  and  heat  them  up.  By  the  next  mor- 
ning the  Indigo  is  completely  reduced  and  dissolved,  and  dyeing  can  once  more  be  proceeded  with. 

Disadvantages  of  the  Fermentation  Vat. 

The  atmosphere  which  comes  in  direct  contact  with  the  surface  of  the  vat  liquor  during 
the  dyeing  operation  causes  some  of  the  Indigo  white  to  be  re-oxidised  to  Indigo  blue;  and 
moreover,  with  the  goods,  a  certain  amount  of  air  is  always  introduced  into  the  inner  vat, 
which  likewise  oxidises  some  of  the  Indigo  white.  A  further  deterioration  of  the  vat  takes 
place  when  the  liquor,  which  is  squeezed  out  of  the  goods  and  which  is  more  or  less  oxidised, 
owing  to  its  exposure  to  the  air,  runs  back  into  the  vat.  Lastlj',  some  of  the  Indigo  blue  is 
only  superficially  attached  to  the  dyed  material,  and  this  is  brought  back  into  the  vat  in  the 
subsequent  dips.  During  the  dj'eing  operation,  the  fermentation,  however,  is  naturally  so  little 
active,  that  no  Indigo  blue  can  be  reconverted  into  Indigo  white.  Hence,  a  fermentation  vat 
becomes  in  a  short  time  very  rich  in  Indigo  blue,  and  is  then  unfit  for  further  dyeing. 

To  these  disadvantages  must  be  added  another:  in  working  the  vat,  the  fine  particles 
of  sediment  gradually  rise  and  permeate  the  whole  liquid,  so  that  only  a  limited  number  of 
dips  per  day  can  be  made  in  the  fermentation  vat,  after  which  it  has  to  be  given  a  longer  rest. 

The  sediment  contains  all  insoluble  fibrous  portions  of  the  woad  and  madder,  the  husks 
of  the  bran;  large  amounts  of  calcium  carbonate,  formed  by  the  reaction  of  the  lime  used  for 
"sharpening",  and  the  soda,  loose  wool  fibres,  and  coarse,  unreduced  particles  of  Indigo.  This 
sediment  gradually  becomes  coloured  partly  by  capillary  attraction,  partly  by  chemical  com- 
bination with  the  Indigo  white  and  this  naturally  causes  a  further  loss  of  Indigo. 

Moreover,  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  finest  particles  of  the  sediment  always  remain  in 
suspension  in  the  liquor,  the  fermentation  vat  is  never  a  clear  solution.  Consequently,  these 
fine  particles  are  deposited  mechanically  on  the  surface  of  the  wool,  and  this  has  a  detri- 
mental effect  upon  its  quality,  especially  upon  its  pliability  in  spinning.  Furthermore,  the 
Indigo  white   attached   to   these  fine  sedimentarj'    particles,   becomes,   as  a  matter  of  course, 


Hydrosulphite  Vats.  147 


only  very  superficially  and  loosely  affixed  to  the  fibre,  and  is  washed  oft'  in  the  subsequent 
treatment;  this  leads  again  to  a  loss  of  Indigo  and  unsatisfactory  fastness. 

In  addition  to  the  above  drawbacks,  all  vats  containing  sediment  have  the  further  dis- 
advantage that  tliey  are  very  large,  for  they  require  the  "dead  space"  below  the  trammel 
for  the  settling  of  the  sediment.  This  space  is  generally  as  large  as  that  utilized  for  dyeing, 
viz:  the  alkaline  solution  of  Indigo  white.  It  is  at  once  apparent  that  the  extra  expenditure 
for  larger  dye  vessels,  and  the  increased  cost  of  heating,  neutralizing  and  preparing  greater 
volumes  of  liquid  is  lost  for  the  mere  purpose  of  dyeing,  and  is  only  necessary  to  give  the 
sediment  space  in  which  to  settle.  Although  the  Indigo  contained  in  the  sediment  gradually 
comes  into  use,  still  the  fact  remains  that  the  cost  of  working  vats  with  this  dead  space  for 
the  sediment,  is  considerable. 

The  efforts  to  reduce  the  great  expenditure  prevailing,  and  also  to  attain  a  high  pro- 
ductive capacity,  have  lead  to  the  employment  of  the  so-called  hydrosulphite  vats. 

3.  Hydrosulphite  Vats. 

While  the  reduction  of  Indigo  in  the  fermentation  vat  is  the  result  of  living  organisms 
(bacteria),  the  second  method  available  for  vat  dyeing  is  based  on  a  direct  chemical  process. 
In  hydrosulphite  vats,  the  reducing  agent  is  the  hydrosulphite,  which,  by  supplying  the  hydrogen 
necessary  for  the  reduction  of  Indigo  to  Indigo  white,  brings  the  latter  product  into  solution 
in    the   presence  of  alkali,   while  it  is  itself  changed  to  a  salt  of  a  higher  degree  of  oxidation. 

Contrary  to  the  fermentation  vats,  the  reduction  of  the  Indigo  blue  to  Indigo  white  is 
not  brought  about  in  the  vat  itself,  but  in  a  separate  vessel;  a  concentrated  solution,  known 
as  stock  vat,  is  prepared,  from  which  the  required  quantity  of  Indigo  white  solution  is  taken 
and  added  to  the  dye  vat.  In  order  to  free  the  dye  liquid  from  oxygen  before  adding  the 
stock  vat,  it  is  necessary  to  neutralize  it  with  hydrosulphite.  In  fermentation  vats  this  is  super- 
fluous, insomuch  as  the  hydrogen  formed  during  fermentation  renders  the  oxygen  contained 
in  the  water  harmless.  The  neutralization  of  the  dye  liquor  is  effected  before  the  addition 
of  the  other  ingredients,  especially  of  stock  vat  solution,  —  by  adding  a  small  amount  of 
hydrosulphite  to  it,  which  is  oxidised  by  the  oxygen  contained  in  the  water,  thus  freeing  the 
liquor  completely  from  oxygen. 

The  older  Hydrosulphite  Vats. 

Of  the  older  hydrosulphite  vats,  the  zinc-bisulphite-lime  vat  was  first  introduced  towards 
the  close  of  the  last  century,  in  some  wool  dyeworks.  This  vat  contained  a  hydrosulphite 
which  was  prepared  by  the  inter-action  of  lime,  zinc  and  bisulphite  of  soda:  zinc  dust 
is  made  to  react  upon  bisulphite,  and  then  caustic  lime  is  added,  and  after  allowing  the 
sediment  to  settle,  the  clear  solution  represents  the  hydrosulphite.  With  this  hydrosul- 
phite as  the  reducing  agent,  and  lime  as  the  alkali  and  solvent,  a  stock  vat  is  prepared  at 
about  158^  F.,  or  sometimes  this  is  obtained  also  by  heating  a  mixture  of  Indigo  and  milk 
of  lime  together  with  the  product  of  the  reaction  of  zinc  dust  upon  bisulphite;  by  the  latter 
method,  however,  a  considerable  quantity  of  Indigo  is  lost  through  over-reduction.  After  neu- 
tralizing the  liquor  with  hydrosulphite,  the  necessary  quantity  of  slaked  lime  and  stock  solution 
are  added  to  the  vat,  and  the  dyeing  continuously  carried  out  by  further  regular  additions  of 
caustic  lime,  hydrosulphite  and  stock  vat. 

By  this  method  considerable  quantities  of  insoluble  matter  are  introduced  into  the  vat, 
therefore  producing  the  same  disadvantages  which  are  attached  to  the  fermentation  vat  through 
the  accumulation  of  sediment. 

The  hydrosulphite-soda  vat  is  free  from  sediment,  and  is  prepared  in  a  similar  manner 
to  the  last  named,  except  that  a  previously  prepared  hydrosulphite  solution  is  used,  and  the 
lime  is  replaced  by  soda  lye  as  the  alkali.  This  vat  produces  very  bright  blues  and  is  free 
from  all  the  disadvantages  of  the  other  previously  described  vats,  which  necessitate  special 
treatment  of  the  sediment. 


I4*i  General  melliods  of  wool  dyeinj;. 


Disadvantages  of  the  older  Hy  drosul  phit  e  Va  ts. 

Neither  the  sediment-free  hydrosulphite-soda  vat,  nor  the  sediment-containing  zinc-lime- 
bisuiphite  vat  can  be  called  ideal  vats  for  wool  dyeing.  Besides  the  fact  that  the  sediment 
of  the  latter  possesses  all  the  disadvantages  of  the  fermentation  vat,  the  presence  of  lime  and 
zinc  affects  the  quality  of  the  wool  injuriously  and  makes  it  less  pliable  for  spinning. 

Still,  both  hj'drosulphite  vats  possess  great  advantages  as  compared  with  the  fermentation 
vat.  Owing  to  the  more  energetic  and  quicker  reducing  action  of  hydrosulphite,  and  to  the 
fact  that  the  vat  liquor  is  supplied  with  Indigo  wiiite  solution  from  the  stock  vat,  a  much 
larger  output  is  possible,  as  these  vats  are  always  ready  for  dyeing  further  lots,  immediately 
they  are  replenislied.  Both  vats,  however,  are  rather  difficult  in  their  continuous  manipulation, 
and  involve  risks  which  stand  in  the  waj'  of  their  general  adoption. 

If  the  hydrosulphite  vat  is  not  well  prepared,  as  is  often  the  case  when  done  on  a  small 
scale,  the  reduction  of  the  Indigo  is  incomplete,  and  more  hydrosulphite  must  be  used,  which 
increases  the  cost.  Hydrosulphite  prepared  by  the  dyer  himself,  moreover,  is  apt  to  contain 
too  much  alkali.  This,  together  with  the  usual  addition  of  caustic  lime  or  soda  lye,  renders 
the  vat  liquor  often  too  alkaline  for  the  wool.  The  excess  of  caustic  lime  and  especially  of 
soda  lye  yields  poor  and  pale  shades,  and  impairs  the  wool  fibre  considerablj*  at  the  tempera- 
ture of  113—122°  F. 

Furthermore,  the  energetic  action  of  lij'drosulphite  itself,  is  often  a  source  of  trouble. 
The  hydrosulphite  vats  always  contain  a  certain  quantity  of  free  or  unused  hydrosulphite, 
which  serves  to  counteract  any  oxygen  brought  into  the  liquid  either  in  entering  the  material, 
or  in  taking  it  out  with  the  liquor  squeezed  out  and  running  back  into  the  vat.  Naturally, 
the  vat  liquor  adhering  to  the  wool  as  it  leaves  the  vat,  also  carries  wilh  it  a  certain  amount 
of  unused  hydrosulphite,  which  retards  the  formation  of  the  blue. 

Should  the  superfluous  liquor  be  squeezed  out  sufficiently  evenly  over  all  parts  of  the 
wool,  the  hydrosulphite  will  also  act  evenly,  i.  e.,  the  hydrosulphite  itself  becomes  quickly 
oxidised  and  loses  its  reducing  power,  but,  at  the  same  time,  retards  the  oxidation  of  the 
Indigo  white.  The  consequence  of  this  slow  formation  of  the  Indigo  within  the  fibre  is,  that 
the  blue  is  fixed,  in,  as  it  were,  an  amorphous  condition  which  shows  itself  by  a  greenish 
tone,  as  compared  with  the  violet  hue  of  the  Indigo  produced  in  tlie  fermentation  vat,  which 
is  formed  more  rapidly  owing  to  the  absence  of  bacteria.  Under  normal  conditions,  however, 
this  greenish  tone  is  of  little  consequence,  for  it  changes  in  the  further  treatments  of  the  goods 
to  the  same  shade  as  that  obtained  from  a  fermentation  vat. 

If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  excess  of  hydrosulphite  is  not  entirely  squeezed  out  of  the  goods, 
it  not  only  retards  the  oxidation,  but  even  acts  as  a  solvent  for  the  Indigo  on  the  fibre;  thus 
damper  portions  of  the  material  will  appear  lighter  than  those  that  are  squeezed  more,  and 
owing  to  the  capillarity  of  the  wool  fibre,  the  tips  will  often  even  remain  undyed. 

Some  dyers,  having  recognised  long  ago  the  vast  benefits  derived  from  immediate 
squeezing  on  lifting  the  wool  from  the  vat,  have,  by  carefully  avoiding  an  excess  of  alkali, 
and  by  strictly  adhering  to  the  rules  of  working  the  old  hydrosulphite  vats,  especially  the 
sedimentless  hydrosulphite-soda  vat,  gained  such  experience  as  enables  them  to  work  these 
vats  satisfactorily.  Yet  the  hydrosulphite  vats  have  not  become  popular.  In  view  of  the  many 
difficulties  in  working  this  kind  of  vat,  it  is  not  surprising  to  hear  the  opinion  pretty  generally 
expressed,  that  the  hydrosulphite  vats  are  only  suitable  for  light  shades.  This  opinion  was, 
however,  considerably  altered  when,  in  the  winter  of  1901—2,  the  Farbwerke  Hoechst 
introduced  their  improved  hydrosulphite  vat. 

The  Hoechst  Vat. 

The  improved  hydrosulphite  vat  of  the  Farbwerke  Hoechst,  is  free  from  sediment,  and 
is  set  with  glue,  ammonia,  hydrosulphite  and  a  special  preparation  of  Indigo,  Indigo  MLB 
Vat  I.  It  excels  all  other  kinds  of  vats,  because,  with  the  exception  of  ammonia,  it  contains 
no  free  alkali.  This  advantage  is  almost  automatically  brought  about,  insomuch  as  the  reduced 
Indigo  is  supplied  in  the  form  of  Indigo  MLB/Vat  I,  and  the  requisite  hydrosulphite  in  a  ready 


Hoechst  Hydrosulphite  Vat.  149 


solution  as  Hydrosulphite  O,  or  in  the  form  of  a  stable  and  easily  soluble  powder,  as  Hydro- 
sulphite  cone,  powder.  The  dyer,  therefore,  has  only  to  apportion  the  ammonia  which,  as 
the  mildest  of  the  alkalies,  does  not  injure  the  wool  fibre  even  if  used  in  excess. 

The  employment  of  ammonia,  which  in  itself  is  almost  incapable  of  dissolving  Indigo 
white,  was  rendered  possible  by  the  observation  first  made  by  the  Farbwerke  Hoechst,  that 
in  the  presence  of  glue,  Indigo  white  is  not  precipitated  but  held  in  solution  by  ammonia  in 
a  finely  divided  state,  a  so-called  colloidal  form,  and  in  this  state  possesses  a  greater  affinity 
for  the  wool  fibre,  than  in  the  form  of  its  soda  nr  lime  salts. 

In  working  with  the  Hoechst  hydrosulphite  vat  which  is  entirely  free  from  sediment,  a 
comparatively  small  dyevat,  without  the  dead  space,  is  used,  whose  capacitj-  is  sufficient  only 
for  the  convenient  manipulation  of  the  goods.  E.g.  for  60  lbs.  loose  wool,  a  vessel  of  about 
500 — 600  gallons  capacity  is  quite  sufficient.  Our  former  remarks  in  respect  of  the  influence 
of  proper  squeezing  arrangements,  hold  good  also  for  the  Hoechst  hydrosulphite  vat;  to  these 
vats  should  always  be  attached  an  apparatus  for  squeezing,  and  it  is  advisable  to  use  this  even 
for  light  shades. 

In  giving  below  an  example  of  the  setting  of  the  Hydrosulphite  vat,  we  wish  to  point 
out  that  further  particulars  of  the  construction  of  the  dye  vessels;  and  more  special  directions 
for  the  production  of  definite  shades,  will  be  contained  in  part  111  of  the  present  work,  when 
discussing  the  individual  branches  of  the  industry. 

A  vat  holding  about  600  gallons  is  filled  with  water,  heated  to  120"  F.,  and  then  I'/o— 3 
pints  of  ammonia  are  added  until  the  liquid  shows  a  slightly  alkaline  reaction.  Two  gallons 
of  a  freshlj'  prepared  solution  of  glue  are  then  added  (2  lbs.  dry  glue),  and  finally  2—4  gallons 
of  Indigo  MLB; Vat  I  mixed  with  2—3  gallons  of  Hydrosulphite  O  poured  into  the  vat. 

The  vat  liquid  is  well  stirred,  and  is  then  immediately  ready  for  dyeing.  The  wool 
(about  60  lbs.)  is  entered,  and  moved  under  the  surface  of  the  liquid  for  20  —  30  minutes,  then 
it  is  lifted  out  of  the  vat  with  sticks  or  forks  and  immediately  passed  through  the  squeezing 
rollers.  It  is  of  great  importance  that  the  wool  is  passed  through  the  squeezing  rollers  "green", 
viz.,  in  the  unoxidised  state.  After  squeezing,  the  wool  is  allowed  to  lie  in  a  heap  until  the 
blue  is  properly  developed  throughout:  if  the  shade  is  not  deep  enough  a  second  dip  is  given. 
Time  may  be  saved  by  dyeing  a  second  lot  during  the  interval  allowed  for  oxidising  the  first 
lot.    Most  shades  can  be  obtained  in  two  dips. 

The  following  particulars  will  serve  to  indicate  the  additions  which  are  required  of 
Indigo  MLB/Vat  1,  Hydrosulphite,  and  Ammonia  (the  proportion  of  glue  always  remaining  the 
same   for   all   shades).     The   appearance   and  reactions  of  the  vat  liquid  are  also  to  be  noted. 

Appearance  Reaction: 

Ammonia:      of  the  liquor: 

none  dark  green       only  slightly  alkaline 

little  green  weakly  alkaline 

much  yellow  alkaline 

From  this  table  it  will  be  observed  that  for  dark  shades  of  blue,  less  Hydrosulphite 
is  required  than  Indigo  MLB/Vat  I,  and  no  ammonia;  for  medium  shades,  as  much  Indigo  MLB 
Vat  I  as  Hydrosulphite  and  only  a  small  amount  of  ammonia,  and  for  light,  bright  blues,  more 
Hj'drosulphite  than  Indigo  MLB  Vat  I  and  more  ammonia. 

The  condition  of  the  Vat  can  be  judged  by  the  appearance  and  the  reaction  of  the  vat- 
liquor.  The  degree  of  alkalinity  of  the  liquor  may  be  ascertained  by  taking  a  small  sample 
in  a  test  tube  or  porcelain  dish  and  adding  one  or  two  drops  of  an  alcoholic  solution  of  phenol- 
phthalein.  The  more  alkaline  the  liquor  is,  the  brighter  will  be  the  reddish  tone  imparted  by  the 
reagent  added:  if  only  weakly  alkaline,  the  reaction  is  only  slight  and  the  colour  quickly  disappears. 

The  management  of  the  vat  is  as  simple  as  its  preparation. 

The  quantity  of  Indigo  MLB/Vat  I  added  for  the  purpose  of  replenishing  the  vat  is  varied 
according  to  the  depth  of  shade  to  be  produced.  For  dark  and  medium  shades  it  may  be 
about  one  third  and  for  light  shades  one  fourth  of  the  quantity  first  used.  In  the  initial  stages 
of  working  the  vat,  the  quantity  requisite  for  replenishing  is  somewhat  greater;  however,  after 
three  or  four  lots  of  material  have  been  passed  through  the  vat  the  amount  becomes  constant. 


Shade: 
dark 

Indigo  MLB 
Vat  I: 
much 

Hydro- 
sulphite 
little 

medium 
light 

equal 
litde 

equal 
much 

150  General  metkods  of  wool  dyeing. 


Moreover,  since  coarse  wool  exhausts  the  vats  much  more  readily  than  fine  Botany 
wool,  more  Indigo  \'at  liquid  I  is  required  when  dj'eing  cross-breds  &c.  &c. 

The  amount  of  Hj'drosulphite  required  for  replenishing  is  about  one  half  to  two  thirds 
of  the  original  quantity.  If  the  vat  is  rested  for  a  time  (overniglit  for  instance),  the  additions 
of  llydrosulphite  have  to  be  increased.  It  is  also  advisable  to  add  a  small  quantity  of  ammonia 
to  the  vats  before  covering  them  up,  so  as  to  retard  the  oxidation.  This  saves  some  Hydro- 
sulpiiite  when  starting  again. 

The  quantity  of  ammonia  added  to  the  vat  is  regulated  by  the  shade  to  be  produced 
and  is  readily  estimated  with  the  help  of  Plienolphthaleine.  The  more  alkaline  the  vat  liquid, 
the  more  slowly  is  the  Indigo  absorbed  by  the  material,  and  the  results  thus  obtained  are 
more  even.  Consequently  for  light  shades  the  vat  liquid  requires  more  ammonia  than  for 
dark  shades.  The  latter  are  generally  dyed  evenly  without  any  addition  of  ammonia. 
Occasionally,  however,  ammonia  is  added  for  dark  colours  when  the  vats  have  stood  for  some 
time  unused,  in  order  to  counteract  any  acid  reaction  produced  by  the  decomposition  of  the 
Hydrosulphite. 

The  continuous  use  of  the  vat  causes  the  dye-liquid  tj  become  more  or  less  contaminated 
by  dirt  and  loose  fibres  and  naturally  this  takes  place  much  sooner  in  ammonia  than  in 
Tcrmentation  vats,  which  contain  at  least  three  or  four  times  the  amount  of  liquid.  Conse- 
quently it  is  advisable  to  renew  the  vat  occasionally.  No  appreciable  loss  is  entailed  by  this 
renewal  as  the  vats  can  be  completely  e.\hausted  by  passing  successive  lots  through  them, 
for  half  a  day,  without  anj'  further  addition  of  Indigo. 

Practical  experience  has  shown  that  a  vat  of  about  000  gallons,  after  having  had 
3000  -  4000  lbs.  of  wool  passed  through  it,  requires  renewal.  As  this  quantity  of  wool  may 
easily  be  handled  in  a  week's  time,  it  is  advisable  to  work  nut  the  vat  at  the  end  of  the  week 
and  set  a  fresh  one  on  the  following  Monday. 

Advantages  of  the  Iloechst  llydrosulphite  Vats. 

Of  all  the  different  vats  which  are  employed  in  the  dyeing  of  woollen  materials,  the 
Iloechst  glue-hydrosulphiteammonia  vat  is  the  most  preferable  and  considered  to  be  the  nearest 
approach  to  the  ideal  vat,  both  from  a  theoretical  and  a  practical  point  of  view.  The  Indigo 
for  the  vat  is  already  contained  in  Indigo  Vat  MLB  I,  in  the  form  of  pure  indigo-w^hite,  in  a 
perfect  state  of  solution,  along  with  a  minimum  quantity  of  the  least  harmful  alkali  to  maintain 
it  in  solution.  Moreover,  all  the  Indigo  added  to  the  vat  is  available  for  dyeing,  a  decided 
advantage,  which  is  never  attained  in  other  chemical  or  fermentation  vats,  in  which  consider- 
able loss  of  Indigo  is  entailed  either  through  insufficient  or  too  active  reduction. 

Further,  being  set  and  maintained  with  carefully  prepared  hydrosulphite  compounds, 
either  llydrosulphite  O  or  llydrosulphite  cone,  this  also  offers  an  advantage,  inasmuch  as 
these  preparations  are  entirely  free  from  lime,  zinc,  or  excess  of  possibly  harmful  alkali. 

The  employment  of  ammonia  alone,  and  the  absence  ol  other  free  alkalies,  make  it  an 
absolute  impossibility  to  damage  the  wool  fibre  during  the  process  of  dyeing. 

The  glue  serves  a  useful  purpose  since  it  permits  of  the  employment  of  ammonia  as 
the  only  free  alkali;  although,  from  a  theoretical  standpoint  it  would  seem  to  be  superfluous, 
close  observations  point  to  the  fact  that  it  exercises  no  injurious  inlluence  whatever. 

All  the  preparations  employed  for  the  setting  of  a  Iloechst  Hydrosulphite  vat  are  entirely 
free  from  sediment;  neither  do  they  contain  any  substances  which,  when  mixed  with  other 
ingredients,  can  produce  insoluble  matter.  These  considerations  at  once  render  it  possible 
to  construct  vats  without  the  dead  space,  viz:  to  work  in  relatively  smaller  dye  vessels,  and 
still  lo  increase  their  productive  capacity. 

The  advantages  accrueing  from  the  absence  of  harmful  alkalies  and  sediment  in  the 
Iloechst  vats,  with  respect  to  the  quality  of  the  wool,  cannot  be  over-estimated.  Wool  dyed 
in  the  Hoechst  vats  is  much  softer  in  handling  and  more  pliable  than  wool  dyed  in  any  other 
vat,  and  consequently  in  spinning  it  produces  less  noils.  The  cloth  ultimately  produced  from 
this   wool  is   also   softer,   more   beautiful   in   appearance  and  possesses  greater  strength  than 


The  Various  Preparations  and  Hydrosulphites.  151 

that  made  from  wool  dyed  in  the  old  kinds  of  vat  These  advantages  make  is  possible  to 
use  a  much  inferior  quality  of  wool  and  yet  to  obtain  the  same  final  eflect  as  if  a  better 
quality  had  been  employed.  Just  the  contrary  was  the  case  formerly  in  the  old  vats,  a  much 
better  quality  of  wool,  than  that  ultimately  desired,  having  to  be  used  to  withstand  the 
deteriorating  influences. 

The  Hoechst  vat  is  easily  prepared,  is  ready  for  dyeing  immediately  and  can  also  be 
quickh-  replenished  by  suitable  additions  when  necessary.  It  can  be  worked  continuously  the 
whole  day  if  desired,  there  being  no  sediment  which,  once  disturbed  during  the  working,  would 
have  to  be  allowed  to  settle  again.  Consequently  it  surpasses  all  other  vats  for  economy  in 
working. 

With  suitable  apparatus  provided  with  proper  squeezing  arrangements,  it  becomes  pos- 
sible to  obtain  the  darkest  shades  in  only  two  dips,  although  it  is  advisable  to  give  say  one 
dip  for  light  shades,  two  for  medium,  and  three  for  darker  shades.  This  is  more  satisfactory, 
as,  by  decreasing  the  number  of  dips  with  a  corresponding  increase  in  the  concentration  of 
the  vat-liquor,  some  portion  of  the  Indigo  becomes  only  mechanially  fixed  upon  the  fibre. 

The  degree  of  fastness  of  the  blues  obtained  from  the  Hoechst  vat  is  such  as  has  not 
been  attained  with  any  other  vat.  In  comparison  with  the  shades  obtained  in  fermentation 
vats,  those  dyed  in  the  improved  hydrosulphite  vat  are  somewhat  greener,  a  fact,  however, 
which  carries  with  it  no  disadvantages.  These  differences  in  shade  on  loose  wool,  slubbing, 
or  yarn,  are  neutralised  afterwards  by  the  treatment  which  the  wool  receives  before  reaching 
the  finished  state,  and  on  piece  goods  bj-  steaming.  Moreover,  thej'  can  be  avoided  to  a  cer- 
tain extent  by  increasing  the  number  of  dips.  In  case  the  reddish  shade  is  particularly  desired 
(notabl}'  in  piece  dyeing)  it  can  be  easily  obtained  by  the  employment  either  whollj'  or  partly 
of  Indigo  MLB/R. 

With  regard  to  the  actual  cost  of  d3'eing,  after  calculating  interest  on  capital,  steam, 
labour  and  materials,  there  is  a  considerable  margin  in  favour  of  the  Hoechst  vat,  especially 
for  medium  shades,  as  compared  to  the  fermentation  vat  without  squeezing  rollers.  Only  for 
the  production  of  very  dark  shades,  the  difterence  is  not  so  marked.  This  comparison  as  to 
cost  of  production  of  deep  shades,  also  holds  good  between  the  zinc-bisulphite-lime  vats  and 
Hoechst  vats.  When,  however,  the  numerous  advantages  of  the  improved  hydrosulphite  vat 
are  taken  into  consideration,  its  greater  productive  capacity,  and  not  least,  its  beneficial  rather 
than  deleterious  influence  on  the  fibre,  the  improvement  of  the  quality  of  the  goods  and  the 
greater  safety  and  simplicity  of  its  manipulation,  the  slightly  higher  cost  of  the  Hoechst  vat 
is  in  reality  more  than  compensated  for. 

This  accounts  for  the  fact  that  since  the  introduction  of  the  improved  glue-anmionia- 
hydrosulphite  vat  a  few  years  ago,  it  has  been  tried  largely  in  all  European  countries  and  in 
many  instances  has  entirely  displaced  all  the  old  kinds  of  vats,  particularly  the  fermentation 
vat.  That  such  general  preference  should  be  accorded  the  Hoechst  vat,  over  all  others,  proves 
the  recognition  of  its  many  practical  advantages,  and  supports  the  opinions  we  have  already 
expressed. 

The  Hoechst  vat,  therefore,  marks  a  decided  advance  in  the  art  of  dyeing  with  Indigo. 

4.  The  Various  Indigo  Preparations  and  Hydrosulphites. 

For  the  purpose  of  dyeing  wool,  Indigo  MLB  and  MLB/R  come  into  the  market  in  several 
forms  which  are  adapted  to  the  various  requirements  of  the  trade. 

Indigo  MLB  Powder. 

Indigo  MLB  powder  consists  of  almost  pure  100  %  Indigotine.  It  is  sold  in  the  form  of 
a  fine  powder,  in  fact  in  such  a  finely  divided  state  that  it  may  be  mixed  with  the  Hydro- 
sulphite at  once  without  any  preliminary  preparation,  unless  the  employment  of  Vat  I  is 
decided  upon.  For  fermentation  Vats,  however,  it  should  be  ground  beforehand,  although  the 
latter  operation  need  not  be  prolonged  to  anywhere  near  the  duration  requisite  for  vegetable  Indigo. 


152  General  methods  of  wool  dyeing. 


Owing  to  the  finely  divided  state  of  Indigo  MLB  powder  and  its  extraordinary  volu- 
minous condition,  it  does  not  moisten  very  easily.  It  is  therefore  advisable  in  order  to  overcome 
this  drawback,  to  first  put  the  powder  in  a  cloth  sack,  suitably  weighted  to  sink,  which  is  then 
placed  in  a  convenient  vessel  containing  water,  and  then  boiled.  Another  method  is,  to  subject 
the  powder  to  the  influence  of  steam  by  stretching  a  piece  of  canvas  across  a  vessel  containing 
boiling  water,  placing  the  powder  on  the  canvas  and  then  covering  it  over  with  a  second 
piece.  The  steam  penetrates  the  cloth  and  the  powder  throughout,  and  moistens  it  equally. 
Sometimes  also  a  broom  is  used,  bj'  means  of  which  the  powder  is  beaten  up  in  boiling 
water  and  thus  converted  into  a  paste. 

Indigo  MLB  in  Little  Lumps. 
Indigo  MLB  in  little  lumps  is  principally  used  in  those  districts  where  the  heavier  paste 
brand    would   be   debarred,   owing  to   excessive  cost  of  transport  and  duty.    It  must  be  first 
ground  in  the  same  way  as  vegetable  indigo  before  it  can  be  used. 

Indigo  MLB  Paste. 

Indigo  MLB  paste  consists  of  a  paste  containing  20 "o  Indigotine.  The  Indigo  in  this 
case  is  so  intimately  mixed  with  water  that  it  is  ready  for  immediate  application  in  all  kinds 
of  vats,  including  the  fermentation  vats,  and  is  fully  equal  to  vegetable  indigo  which  has  been 
ground.  With  the  use  of  Indigo  MLB  paste,  the  cost  therefore  of  the  operation  of  grinding 
which  is  by  no  means  a  negligible  factor  (including  as  it  does,  motive  power  and  interest  on 
the  grinding  plant)  is  entirelj-  obviated;  moreover,  no  loss  is  occasioned  by  the  dust  of  the 
powder  Indigo  flying  about. 

Indigo  MLB  paste  may  therefore  in  all  cases  replace  the  natural  product,  and  generally 
speaking,  it  will  be  found  preferable  to  the  powder  brands. 

Indigo  MLB/Vat  L 

Indigo  MLB  Vat  I  is  a  solution  of  pure  indigo-white  in  ammonia  containing  a  minimum 
quantity  of  fixed  alkali  such  as  is  necessary  only  for  the  preparation  of  the  vat.  It  is  suitable 
for  hydrosulphite  as  well  as  fermentation  vats.  The  utilisation  of  the  Indigo  in  this  state  saves 
the  costly  process  of  converting  the  Indigotine  to  indigo  white,  and  does  away  with  mistakes 
and  losses  of  Indigo  which  otherwise  frequently  occur.  Indigo  MLB  Vat  1  therefore  oilers 
considerable  advantages  over  both  the  paste  and  the  powder. 

Indigo  MLB  Vat  I  was  originally  put  on  the  market  with  the  intention  of  its  application 
in  the  improved  hydrosulphite  vat,  but  very  soon  it  proved  of  great  success  also  in  fermen- 
tation vats.  As  it  represents  a  perfect  solution  of  Indigo  white,  it  can  be  added  to  well- 
conditioned  fermentation  vats,  and  these  are  then  ready  for  dyeing  immediately  afterwards. 
It  is  clear  why  the  preference  is  given  to  Indigo  MLB  Vat  I,  as  against  Indigo  in  fermentation 
vats,  for  not  only  is  their  working  capability  increased  to  at  least  double  its  former  output 
but  again  the  liability  of  over-reduction,  which  is  otherwise  ever  present,  is  minimised  by  the 
use  of  Indigo  MLB  Vat  I  to  a  point  that  at  least  10  per  cent  of  Indigo  are  saved. 

By  its  employment  in  the  ftrmentation  vat,  a  weak  vat  can  be  transformed  in  the 
shortest  time,  into  one  of  a  medium  or  high  degree  of  concentration.  Furthermore,  the  use  of 
Indigo  MLB/Vat  I  permits  of  conditioning  a  fermentation  vat  with  greater  certainty,  for 
much  less  lime  is  needed,  and  this  addition  can  often  be  dispensed  with  altogether. 

Indigo  MLB/W  paste. 

Indigo  MLB/W  50  ",o  paste  is  a  preparation  containing  pure  indigo- white  and  no  alkali. 
Like  Indigo  MLB/Vat  I  it  is  suitable  for  application  in  all  sorts  of  vats,  but  in  this  case  it  is 
left  to  the  dyer  to  dissolve  the  Indigo  white  in  alkali  and  to  find  the  amount  needed. 

Twenty  parts  of  Indigo  MLB/W  paste  correspond  to  fifty  parts  of  Indigo  MLB/Vat  I 
and  it  is  still  more  suitable  than  this  for  application  in  fermentation  vats.    In  a  well-conditioned 


Dyeing  in  the  Vat.  153 

fermentation  vat,  it  readily  dissolves,  and  easily  distributes  itself  throughout  the  liquor.  While 
it  possesses  the  same  superiority  as  Indigo  MLB  Vat  I,  it  has  the  further  advantage  over  the 
latter,  of  containing  no  alkali,  a  fact  which  gives  to  the  dj-er  free  scope  in  calculating  the 
amount  of  alkali  to  be  added  to  the  vat.  On  account  of  the  absence  of  ammonia  from  this 
preparation,  the  smell  of  the  fermentation  vat  remains  unaltered,  and  the  process  of  fermen- 
tation is  facilitated.  For  these  reasons  when  setting  and  manipulating  a  fermentation  vat  with 
Indigo  MLB/VV  paste,  smaller  quantities  of  fermentatives  are  required,  thus  decreasing  the 
cost  and  at  the  same  time  decidedly  lessening  the  amount  of  sediment  formed. 

Indigo  MLB;R. 

All  the  preparations  mentioned  so  far  are  dyestuffs  containing  indigotine,  identical  in 
constitution  with  the  colouring  matter  of  natural  indigo.  Indigo  MLB/R,  however,  is  a  different 
product;  it  is  a  derivative  of  indigotine,  which,  however,  is  to  be  classed  among  the  true 
vat  colours. 

Indigo  MLB/R  appears  on  the  market  in  the  same  forms  as  does  Indigo  MLB:  as 
powder,  paste  and  vat. 

The  great  value  of  Indigo  MLB/R  lies  in  its  blueviolet  shade  which  makes  it  especially 
valuable  as  a  supplementary  colour  in  Indigo  dj'eing. 

The  fastness  of  shades  obtained  with  Indigo  MLB,  R  is  quite  equal  to  that  of  Indigo  MLB, 
and  it  is  noteworthy  that  the  shades  produced  by  combining  these  two  products,  owing  to  a 
mutual  complementary  action,  are  particularly  fast  to  steaming,  to  light  and  to  air,  even  more 
so,  in  fact,  than  pure  indigo  blue  shades. 

In  the  setting  of  hydrosulphite  vats  with  Indigo  MLB/R,  it  has  to  be  observed  that  in 
order  to  obtain  heavy  blueviolet  tones,  a  somewhat  sharper  vat  is  needed  than  when  using 
ordinary  indigo.  Both  in  setting  and  in  replenishing,  rather  more  hydrosulphite  is  required 
than  ordinarily.  Although  Indigo  MLB  and  Indigo  MLB/R,  may  be  used  together,  especially 
in  fermentation  vats,  practical  experience  has  proved  that  the  violet  shade  of  Indigo  MLB/R 
is  more  pronounced  when  used  apart  from  Indigo  MLB,  particularly  in  the  Hydrosulphite  Vat. 
In  view  of  this  fact  piece  goods  are  often  dyed  first  with  Indigo  MLB,  the  second  passage 
being  given  with  Indigo  MLB/R.  The  same  method  is  emploj^ed  in  the  dyeing  of  loose  wool 
and  slubbing,  or  one  part  of  the  material  is  dyed  with  the  one  product,  the  other  portion  with 
the  other,  and  the  two  lots  mixed.     By  this  method  any  desired  shade  can  be  obtained. 

This  new  dyestuft'  is  also  of  particular  interest  to  the  cloth  trade,  as  by  its  use,  a  whole 
range  of  shades  can  be  obtained,  which  possess  a  degree  of  fastness  previously  unattainable. 
These  effects  are  produced  in  (he  vat  itself,  whereas  hitherto,  shaded  blues  could  only  be 
obtained  by  supplementary  treatment,  i.  e.,  topping  with  shading  colouring  matters  of  inferior 
fastness.  A  further  advantage  is  that  when  dealing  with  naturally  yellowish  coloured  material, 
a  much  purer  and  clearer  blue  shade  is  obtained  with  a  mixture  of  MLB  and  MLB/R  than 
would  be  possible  with  Indigo  MLB  alone,  which  would  be  greenish  and  dull. 

Lastly  we  will  briefly  discuss  our  Hydrosulphite  preparations  which  are  used  in  con- 
junction with  the  improved  vats. 

Hydrosulphite   O. 

Hydrosulphite  O  is  a  carefully  prepared  solution  of  a  hydrosulphite  compound  of  great 
reducing  power,  which,  besides  being  free  from  lime  and  zinc,  contains  no  free  alkali  of  a 
harmful  nature.  Hydrosulphite  O  is  reasonably  stable,  but  after  some  time,  particularly  in 
hot  summer  weather  loses  many  of  its  original  qualities.  It  is  advisable  therefore,  not  to 
store  it  longer  than  necessary  and  to  keep  it  in  a  cool  place. 

Hydrosulphite   cone,   powder. 
Hydrosulphite  cone,  powder  is  a  fine,  dr3',  greyish  powder,  whose  stability  is  unliinited 
if  kept  in  firmly   closed   tins.     It  is  a  neutral  sodium  hydrosulphite,  free  from  all  admixtures 
and  salts,  which  makes  it  particularly  valuable  as  a  reducing  agent.     One  part  Hydrosulphite 
cone,  powder  is  equivalent  in  reducing  strength  to  6 — 8  parts  Hydrosulphite  O. 

lOale 


General   nictbods  of  Wool   Dyeing. 


Its  application  is  extremely  simple,  as  it  is  only  necessary  to  dissolve  it  in  cold  water 
in  order  to  obtain  a  solution  which  is  at  once  ready  for  use.  and  is  employed  in  the  same 
manner  as  Hydrosulphite  O.  Considering,  however,  that  Hydrosulphite  cone,  powder  is  a 
neutral  powder,  whereas  Hydrosulphite  O  contains  some  free  alkali  and  ammonia,  it  is  ne- 
cessary to  take  care  that  the  requisite  amount  of  alkali  is  added  to  the  vat  when  working 
with  solutions  of  Hydrosulphite  cone,  powder.  This  is  of  special  importance  for  the  production 
of  light  blues,  which  require  somewhat  sharper  vats  than  dark  blues,  as  otherwise  a  deficiency 
of  alkali  in  the  vat  may  cause  indigo  white  to  be  precipitated,  a  defect  which  will  show  itself 
in  an  iridescent  appearance  of  the  vat  liquor,  in  the  duller,  greenish  tone  and  looseness  of 
the  shades  produced,  and  also  in  an  increased  consumption  of  Indigo. 

These  drawbacks  maj'  be  counteracted  bj'  a  careful  addition  of  soda  lye  to  the  vat 
liquor,  but  in  working  with  Hydrosulphite  cone,  powder,  they  may  be  obviated  from  the  outset, 
by  dissolving  oO  lbs.  Hydrosulphite  cone,  powder  in  a  mixture  of  4  lbs.  soda  lye  77°  Tw.  and 
about  Ifi  gallons  water,  to  which  are  finally  added,  i  lbs.  ammonia  25 "o.  In  this  way  200  lbs. 
of  hydrosulphite  solution  are  obtained  which  are  exactly  equal  to  200  lbs.  of  fresh  Hydro- 
sulphite O,  and  have  the  same  effect  in  the  vat. 

The  above  defects  will  seldom  be  noticeable  when  dyeing  dark  shades,  for  which  a  less 
alkaline  vat  is  required,  since  the  larger  amount  of  Indigo  MLB  \'at  I  necessary  for  dyeing, 
always  carries  enough  alkali  into  the  vat  liquor;  but  here  also  it  is  possible  to  work  with  a 
solution  of  Hydrosulphite  cone,  powder  obtained  with  the  addition  of  soda  lye  and  ammonia. 

We  particularly  recommend  Hydrosulphite  cone,  powder  for  its  stability  and  highly 
concentrated  form  where  a  long  transport  and  heavy  duties  render  Hydrosulphite  O  too 
expensive;  also  where  a  smaller  or  not  regular  consumption  makes  the  storing  of  Hydro- 
sulphite O  inadvisable;  and,  lastlj",  as  a  reliable  substitute  for  the  latter  during  the  hot 
summer  months. 


Methods  of  altering  the  tinctorial  properties  of  wool.  155 


VIII.  Methods  of  altering  the  tinctorial  properties  of  wool. 

The  usual  methods  for  producing  two  or  more  coloured  all  wool  effects  is,  to  mix  separ- 
ately dyed  materials  either  in  spinning  (loose  wool  or  shibbing  of  different  shades)  or  in  weaving 
(differently  dyed  yarns).  Besides  these,  there  is  available  the  method  of  wool  printing  in 
general,  and  of  vigoureux  printing  in  particular.  These  latter  will  be  fully  described  in  the 
second  and  third  volumes  of  this  work. 

If  the  first-named  method  is  adopted,  e.  g.,  for  producing  melanges  of  certain  combinations 
which  are  not  regularly  asked  for,  it  would  be  necessary,  unless  big  stocks  of  ready  dyed 
wool,  yarns  or  pieces  were  kept,  first  to  dye  the  loose  wool  to  the  various  shades  required, 
then  to  mix  these  shades,  spin  the  3'arn  and  weave  the  pieces,  and  finally  mill,  carbonize  and' 
finish  the  manufactured  cloth.  During  these  operations  it  is  unavoidable  to  have  a  certain 
amount  of  waste  which  increases  the  cost  of  the  goods;  moreover,  it  requires  time  to  carry 
them  out  satisfactorily. 

Continued  efforts  have  therefore  been  made  to  produce  multi-coloured  goods  by  altering 
the  absorptive  capacity  of  some  parts  of  the  wool  employed,  mixing  this  prepared  wool  with 
ordinary  material,  and  then  dyeing  the  goods  only  in  the  final  stage  according  to  requirements. 
This  process  has  the  advantages  over  the  usual  method,  that  waste  in  spinning  and  weaving 
is  avoided,  and  that  the  goods  can  be  supplied  in  much  less  time,  seeing  that  they  may  be 
kept  in  stock  in  the  unfinished  state,  though  ready  for  dyeing,  so  that  they  can  be  delivered 
with  the  least  possible  delay. 

An  obviously  convenient  method  is  to  mix,  spin  or  weave  mordanted  wool  (prepared 
in  the  usual  manner  with  metal  mordants,  especially  chrome  or  alum  mordant)  together  with 
unmordanted  wool,  or  to  weave  mordanted  yarn  together  with  unmordanted  yarn.  If,  afterwards, 
this  material  is  dyed  with  mordant  dyestuffs,  these  will,  of  course,  be  chiefly  attracted  by  the 
mordanted  fibre,  while  the  unmordanted  fibre  remains  altogether,  or  almost  undyed.  If,  however 
acid  dyestuffs,  which  dye  both  the  mordanted  and  unmordanted  fibres,  are  added  to  the  bath 
containing  the  mordant  dyestuffs,  shades  peculiar  to  the  acid  dyestuffs  are  obtained  on  the 
unmordanted  fibres,  and  mixture  shades  of  the  acid  and  mordant  dyestuffs  together  will  appear 
on  the  mordanted  wool. 

By  this  means  it  is  possible  to  produce  either  coloured  or  nmlti-coloured  melanges. 
This  method,  originally  proposed  for  yarns  and  described  in  a  German  patent  D.R.P.  70144, 
now  lapsed,  and  for  loose  wool  described  in  the  German  patent  D.R.P.  110632,  also  lapsed, 
has,  however,  not  met  with  general  favour.  The  probable  reasons  are  that  the  colour  and 
white  effects  are  seldom  sufficiently  clear,  since  all  inordant  dyestuffs  colour  the  unmordanted 
wool  to  some  degree,  and  that  extreme  difficulty  is  experienced  in  matching  the  colours 
accurately. 

Another  method,  which  was  described  in  the  German  patent  D.R.P.  108  714  (also  lapsed) 
consists  of  mixing  chlorinated  yarn  together  with  ordinarj'  untreated  yarn,  and  is  based  on  the 
fact  that  chlorinated  wool  absorbs  all  dyestuffs  more  eagerly,  and  therefore  is  dyed  more  deeply 
than  ordinary  wool.  By  combining  the  two  kinds  of  yarn  and  dyeing  them  in  the  piece,  dark  and 
light  effects  are  obtained,  especially  when  direct  dyeing  cotton  dyestuffs  are  used,  which  are  par- 
ticularly suitable  for  that  purpose.  This  process  is  also  interesting  from  another  point  of 
view:  peculiar  crepon  effects  can  be  produced  in  milling,  which  is  explained  by  the  fact  that 
chlorinated  wool  —  contrary  to  ordinarj-  wool  —  does  not  shrink  in  milling. 

The  following  directions  for  chlorinating  wool  will  be  found  useful,  as  this  operation  is 
frequently  resorted  to  in  j'arn  dyeing  for  producing  material  which,  when  subjected  to  special 
after-treatments,  is  distinguished  for  its  soft  and  silkj^,  scroopy  handle,  and  is  largely  applied 
to  knitting,  hosiery  and  fancy  yarns,  in  order  to  make  them  unshrinkable. 

The  well  washed  yarn  is  first  passed  for  20  minutes  through  a  cold  bath  containing 
10  parts  muriatic  acid  84'/2''Tw.  per  1000.  After  squeezing  lightly,  or  allowing  the  liquid  to 
run  off  evenly,  the  yarn  is  entered  into  a  second  bath  containing  a  clear,  well-filtered  solution 
of  chloride  of  lime  (10  parts  in  1000  water),   in  which  the  yarn  is  worked  cold  for  ','2  hour.    It 


150  General  methods  of  Wool  Dyeing. 


is  then  slightly  rinsed  and  passed  again  into  the  first  bath,  or  into  a  third  cold  bath  containing 
10—15  parts  concentrated  sulphuric  acid  per  1000,  where  it  is  worked  for  another  20  minutes 
and  again  rinsed. 

In  the  following  dyeing  process  it  is  important  to  remember  that  chlorinated  wool  alwaj-s 
shows  a  materially  enhanced  affinity  for  the  dyestufls.  Only  colours  which  excel  as  regards 
equalizing  should  be  used;  the  yarn  must  be  entered  cold,  the  amount  of  acid  suitably  decreased 
and  the  bath  heated  very  slowly  to  the  boil.  After  dyeing,  the  goods  are  well  washed  and 
hydroextracted;  in  order  to  produce  the  "scroop"  ihey  are  then  treated  in  a  soap  bath  at 
140°  F.  containing  5—7.5  parts  Olive  Oil  soap  per  1000.  After  again  hydroextracting  they 
are  passed  through  a  bath  containing  7.5  parts  muriatic  acid  Si's"  Tw.  per  1000  and  finally 
washed,  hj^droextracted  and  dried. 

To  clear  the  white,  it  is  expedient  to  sulphur  the  goods  in  the  stove  before  they  are 
finally  dried. 

The  method  of  weaving  chlorinated  j'arn  together  with  non-chlorinated  yarn,  and  then 
dyeing  the  woven  piece  in  a  single  bath,  has  however  not  gained  much  importance:  1.  because 
the  affinity  of  the  wool  varies  in  proportion  to  the  degree  of  its  chlorination,  2.  because  it  is 
difficult  to  dj'e  to  pattern  and  3.  because  this  method  does  not  lend  itself  to  the  production 
of  colour  contrasts,  but  only  yields  light  and  dark  effects  of  the  same  shade. 

By  another  method  described  in  the  German  patent  D.  R.  P.  137  947,  considerablj^  better 
results  are  obtained.  This  method  is  based  on  the  observation  that  wool  treated  with  tannin  and 
metal  salts,  especially  tin  and  antimony  salts,  loses  its  affinitj'  for  the  ordinarj'  wool  dyestuffs 
while,  at  the  same  time,  its  affinitj'  for  the  basic  dyestufls  is  considerably  enhanced,  so  that 
its  behaviour  in  dyeing  resembles  that  of  cotton. 

For  this  purpose  the  goods  are  treated  with  20%  tannin  and  6"o  muriatic  acid  for 
1  hour  at  the  boil,  then  lightly  rinsed,  boiled  for  "  *  hour  in  a  second  bath  containing  12.5  ",0 
tartar  emetic  and  10%  acetate  of  soda,  rinsed  again  and  dried. 

This  method  is  suitable  for  loose  wool,  slubbing  and  yarn,  and  yarns  or  fabrics  produced 
from,  and  containing  both  prepared  and  unprepared  material,  are  dyed  with  acid  dyestuffs 
such  as  Flavazine  T,  Azo  Acid  Carmin  B,  New  Coccine  O,  Victoria  Rubine  O,  Chromo- 
trope  RR,  6B,  Victoria  Violet  4BS,  Azo  Acid  Blue  B.  The  dyebath  is  prepared  with  5—10% 
acetic  acid,  20 — 50%  Glauber's  salt  and  tlie  requisite  amount  of  dyestufl";  the  goods  are  entered 
at  a  medium  temperature  and  dj'ed  to  pattern  at  185 — 195"  F. 

When  observing  these  precautions  the  prepared  fibre  remains  undyed,  so  that  coloured 
and  white  eftects  are  obtained  in  one  bath. 

If  two-colour   eftects   are   desired,    it   is  advisable  to  proceed  in  the  following  manner: 

The  dyebath  is  prepared  with  at  least  10  °o  acetic  acid  and  the  necessarj'  quantity  of  the 
dissolved  basic  dyestufls.  Pre-eminently  suitable  are:  Methylene  Yellow  H,  Auramine  cone, 
Acridine  Red  3B,  Methylene  Blue  BB  extra,  Thionine  Blue  GO,  Methylene  Green  G  extra 
cone;  then  also  in  the  second  place,  Brilliant  Green  crj-stals  extra.  Methylene  Heliotrope  O 
and  Safranine  cone.  The  goods  are  entered  hot,  the  bath  is  then  raised  to  the  boil,  and  the 
material  dj'ed  to  pattern  at  the  boil  (additions  of  basic  dj'estufts  may  be  made  at  the  boil). 
Afterwards  the  unprepared  fibre  is  dyed  in  a  second  bath,  according  to  the  directions 
given  above. 

Dj'ed  wool  can  be  subjected  to  this  treatment  just  as  well  as  white  wool,  if  the  follow- 
ing dyestuffs  have  been  used,  which  are  fast  to  acids:  Indigo  MLB,  Indigo  MLB/R,  Alizarine 
Blue  A,  DNW,  Ceruleine  A,  SW,  Chromogen  I,  Dianil  Fast  Red  PI  I,  Milling  Yellow  O, 
Milling  Scarlet  4R  cone. 

The  preparation  scarcely  affects  the  milling  capacity  of  the  wool,  and  withstands  the 
preparatory  finishing  operations,  i.  e.  milling,  washing,  crabbing,  steaming  and  carbonizing, 
most  satisfactorily,  provided  that  no  strong  alkali  is  used  in  milling  and  washing. 

The  dj'oing  to  pattern  presents  no  difficulties,  and  with  regard  to  fastness  it  is  to  be 
remarked  that  basic  dyestufls  fixed  upon  the  prepared  fibre  by  means  of  tannin  show  very 
satisfactory  fastness  to  light,  and  are  in  this  respect,  not  inferior  to  the  acid  dyestuffs  used 
for  unprepared  wool. 


Methods  of  altering  the  tinctorial  properties  of  wool. 


157 


1  St  bath :  (prepared  wool) 
0,1  "/o  Brilliant  Green  crystals  extra 
0,025%  Methylene  Yellow  H 
10°/o  Acetic  acid. 

2nd  bath:  (ordinary  wool) 
2%  Victoria  Rubine  O 
SQo/o  Glauber's  salt 
7,5%  Acetic  acid. 


The  preparation  can  be  carried  out  upon  loose  material,  slubbing  and  yarn.  By  this 
means  it  is  possible  therefore  to  produce  goods  which  in  dj'eing  show  either  melange  or 
weaving  effects. 

The  colours  come  up  so  clear  that  many  bright  and  pronounced  colour  contrasts,  e.  g. 
green  and  red,  orange  and  blue,  white  and  black  etc.  are  obtainable. 

In  order  to  produce  white  effects,  the  harder,  lustrous  kinds  of  wool,  such  as  cross-breds, 
mohairs  etc.  are  preferable  for  preparation;  the  finer  wools  are  liable  to  turn  yellowish  through 
the  tannin  preparation,  and  moreover  the  latter  does  not  act  so  efficiently  upon  them  as  on 
coarser  wools. 

The  yellowish  hue  of  tannin  treated  wool  is  often  very  disagreeable  for  white  effects, 
however  it  can  be  prevented  by  another  treatment  (described  in  the  German  patents  D.  R.  P.  142 115 
and  168  025)  with  concentrated  sulphuric  acid  which,  like  tannin  preparation,  renders  the  wool 
insensitive  to  the  ordinary  wool  dyestuffs,  without  affecting  its  white  colour  in  the  least. 

In  conclusion,  we  may  mention  another  interesting  process  whereby  the  tinctorial  prop- 
erties of  \vool  are  affected.  A  patent  has  been  applied  for  (No.  K  20  699  contains  the  des- 
cription) for  rendering  wool,  which  is  naturally  extremely  sensitive  to  alkalies,  insensitive  to 
their  influence  by  treating  it  for  several  hours  with  a  hot  solution  of  formaldehyde.  It  is 
claimed  that  wool  so  treated,  may  be  dyed  with  sulphur  dyestufts,  e.  g.  in  an  alkaline  sul- 
phide bath,  but  that  it  loses  its  capacity  for  milling. 


Chemicals  and  Tables. 


The  Chemicals  used  in  Wool  Dyeing;  Measures  and  Weights;  Tables. 

The  following  part  contains  a  survey  of  the  chemicals  chiefly  employed  in  wool  dyeing; 
mordants  and  auxiliary  ingredients  for  dyeing,  cleaning,  finishing  and  other  treatments.  We 
have  arranged  them  in  alphabetical  order,  and  propose  to  state  briefly  their  application, 
characteristics  and  properties  as  relating  to  the  purposes  of  dyeing  and  purchasing.  In 
addition,  we  have  compiled  several  tables  comparing  the  most  important  weights  and  measures, 
and  also  others  relating  to  the  physical  and  chemical  properties  of  solutions  etc. 


Acetate  of  Ammonia. 

Ammonium  Acetate,  NH4C2H3O2,  forms  easily  deliquescent  crystals;  it  is  generally 
put  on  the  market  in  solution,  or  prepared  by  mixing  acetic  acid  with  ammonia,  e.  g.  105  cc 
ammonia  25  "/o  with  150  cc  acetic  acid  50%,  made  up  to  1  liter,  thus  obtaining  a  solution  of 
100  grams  acetate  of  ammonia  per  liter.     This  solution  has  a  weak  alkaline  reaction. 

On  being  heated,  acetate  of  ammonia  decomposes  and  gives  off  ammonia,  thus  rendering 
the  solution  gradually  more  acid.  On  this  property  is  based  the  employment  of  acetate  of 
ammonia  in  wool  dyeing:  in  order  to  produce  a  mild,  even  and  gradual  acidification  of  the 
dyebaths  charged  with  acid,  developing  and  mordant  dyestuffi  which  equalise  with  difficulty 
and  are  otherwise  too  rapidly  attracted  by  the  fibre. 


Acetate  of  Chrome. 

Chromium  Acetate  is  put  upon  the  market  in  two  modifications,  viz:  as  green  or  normal 
acetate,  Cr2(CH3COO)6,  and  as  violet  or  basic  acetate,  Cr2(CH3COO)4(OH)2,  and  is  used  as 
a  chrome  mordant  in  Vigoureux  printing;  but  cannot  be  used  in  dyeing  owing  to  its  stability. 

The  violet  acetate  of  chrome  can  be  obtained  by  dissolving  chromoxide  hydrate  in 
acetic  acid.     For  this  purpose 

1200  parts  chromoxide  hydrate  paste  20%  and 
1300      „      acetic  acid  9°  Tw. 
are   heated   on   the   water   bath   until    completely  dissolved,  and  diluted  to  25"  Tw.     Another 
method  is  based  on  the  reaction  of  chrome  alum  upon  sugar  of  lead: 

(  1200  parts  chrome  alum,  dissolved  in  f  1200  parts  sugar  of  lead  dissolved  in 

I  2400      „    water  ^"      I  1000      „    water 

are    mixed,   the    precipitate    allowed    to   settle,    the  liquid  filtered  oft',    and  diluted  to  25°  Tw. 

llle 


162 


Chemicals  and  Tables. 


Specific  Gravity  and  Percentage  of  solutions  of  basic  (violet)  Acetate 
of  Chrome  at  69»  F. 


Spccifii 

^CBr<^e, 

grams   Cr.O, 

SpcciBc 

Degree* 

(rr»ms   Cr.Oj 

Gr.v.tj- 

Braume 

per  lilcr 

Gra\-ity 

Btiumi 

per  lilcr 

1,006 

1,0 

5          ! 

1,089 

11,8 

70 

1,013 

2,0 

10 

1,096 

12,5 

75 

1,019 

2,T 

15 

1,102 

13,2 

80 

1,025 

3,4 

20 

1,108 

13,9 

85 

1,031 

4,2 

25 

1,115 

H,9 

90 

1,037 

5,0 

30 

1,122 

15,7 

95            ■ 

1,043 

5,8 

35 

1,129 

16,4 

100            i 

1,050 

6,7 

40 

1,136 

17,2 

105            ' 

1,056 

7,5 

45 

1,143 

18,0 

110 

1,063 

8,4 

50 

1,150 

18,8 

115 

1,069 

9,3 

55 

1,157 

19,5 

120 

1,076 

10,1 

60              ' 

1,UU 

19,9 

12.' 

1,083 

11,0 

65              I 

The  green  modification  is  obtained  in  the  following  manner: 
1200  parts  bichromate  of  soda,  dissolved  in 
1250    „    water,  are  mixed  with 

3000    „    acetic  acid  9°  Tw.    To  this  solution  are  gradually  added: 
756    „    glucose,  and  the  whole  heated  until  turned  green. 


Specific   Gravity   and   Percentage   of  solutions  of  normal    (green)    sextuple 
Acetate  of  Chrome  at  63°  F. 


Specitic 

Degrees 

grams   Cr,02 

Specific 

D.-K.„, 

yiami.    i.i,Uj 

Gravity 

Beaunie 

per  liter 

Gravity 

Beaumi 

per  liter 

1,007 

1 

5             ' 

1,084 

11,1 

60 

1,014 

2 

10 

1,091 

12,0 

65           i 

1,021 

3 

15 

1,098 

12,8 

70 

1,028 

4 

20 

1,105 

13.6 

75 

1,035 

4,9 

25 

1,112 

14,5 

80 

1,024 

5,8 

30 

1,119 

15,3 

85 

1,049 

6,6 

35 

1,126 

16,1 

90 

1,056 

7,5 

40 

1,133 

16,9 

95 

1,063 

8,4 

45 

1,140 

17,6 

100 

1,070 

9,3 

50 

1  147 

1>!.5 

105 

1,077 

10,2 

55 

1,151 

19.0 

107 

Acetate  of  Lime. 

Calcium  Acetate,  CalCsHsOs)*  +  HoO,  a  whitish  substance  easily  soluble  in  water,  is 
used  in  wool  dj'eing  as  addition  to  the  dyebath  in  dyeing  Alizarine  Red  and  Alizarine  Orange 
on  alumina  mordant.    Its  addition  renders  tlie  shade  brighter  and  bluer. 


Acetate  of  Soda. 

Sodium   Acetate,   NaCjHsOs +  3HsO,   forms   colourless  crystals.     100   parts  cold   water 
dissolve   33   parts,    100  parts  hot  water  dissolve   200   parts   acetate   of  soda.     It  serves  for 


Chemicals  and  Tables. 


163 


neutralizing  free  mineral  acids,  and  is  used  for  that  purpose  in  Vigoureux  printing;  also  as 
addition  to  the  dyebath  in  dyeing  with  Resorcine  dyestufFs,  in  order  to  retard  the  absorption 
of  the  colouring  matter. 


Acetic  Acid. 

Acetic  Acid,  CH3COOH;  is  in  its  pure  state  a  colourless  liquid  called  glacial  Acetic 
acid  which  crystallizes  at  62,6°?.  and  evaporates  at  246°  F.  On  account  of  its  high  price  it 
is,  as  a  rule,  used  diluted  with  water,  and  sold  as  commercial  acetic  acid  in  various  concen- 
trations from  30— 90°/o.  Acetic  acid  should  be  free  from  any  considerable  quantity  of  inorganic 
acids.  It  is  extensively  used  in  wool  dyeing,  especially  for  the  correction  of  water  containing 
lime,  in  dyeing  v/ith  basic  dyestuffs  and  with  mordant  and  developing  dyestuffs  which  are 
sensitive  to  lime;  moreover  for  dyeirg  with  dyestuffs  that  equalize  with  difficulty  or  are  sen- 
sitive to  sulphuric  acid,  such  as  the  Resorcine  colours,  as  a  mild  acid,  instead  of  sulphuric  or 
formic  acid.     It  is  also  used  as  addition  to  printing  colours  in  Vigoureux  printing. 

In  the  present  work  acetic  acid  is  always  referred  to  as  of  12°  Tw.  =  SO'/o,  unless 
stated  otherwise.  Particulars  respecting  the  degrees  of  concentration  of  commercial  acetic 
acid  are  furnished  in  the  subjoined  table: 

Specific  Gravity  of  Acetic  Acid  at  59°  F. 
(Oudemans.) 


Specific 
Giavity 

Percentage 

Specific 
Gravity 

Perccnt.ige 

1        Speci6c 
Gravity 

Percentage 

Specific 
Gravity 

Percentage 

0,9992 

0 

1,0363 

26 

1,0631 

52 

1,0748 

78 

1     1,0007 

1 

1,0375 

27 

1,0638 

53 

1,0748 

79 

1,0022 

2 

1,0388 

28 

1,0646 

54 

1,0748 

80 

1,0037 

3 

1,0400 

29 

1,0653 

55 

1,0747 

81 

1,0052 

4         } 

1,0412 

30 

1,0660 

56 

1,0746 

82 

1,0067 

5 

1,0424 

31 

1,0666 

57 

1,0744 

83 

1,0083 

6 

1,0136 

32 

1,0673 

58 

1,0742 

84 

1,0098 

7 

1,0447 

33 

1,0679 

59 

1,0739 

85 

[     1,0113 

8 

1,0459 

34 

1,0685 

60 

1,0736 

86 

1,0127 

9 

1,0470 

35 

i     1,0691 

61 

1,0731 

87 

!     1,0142 

10 

1,0481 

36 

1,0697 

62 

1,0726 

88 

1,0157 

11 

!     1,0492 

37 

1,0702 

63 

1,0720 

89        • 

1,0171 

12 

1,0502 

38 

1,0707 

64 

1,0713 

90 

1     1,0185 

13 

1,0513 

39 

1,0712 

65 

1,0705 

91 

1,0200 

14 

1,0523 

40 

1,0717 

66 

1,0696 

92 

!     1,0214 

15 

1,0533 

41 

1,0721 

67 

1,0686 

93 

1,0228 

16 

1,0543 

42 

1,0725 

68 

1,0674 

94 

1,0242 

17 

1,0552 

43 

1,0729 

69 

1,0660 

95 

1,0266 

IS 

1,0562 

44 

1,0733 

70 

1,0644 

96 

1,0270 

19 

1,0571 

45 

1,0737 

71 

1,0625 

97 

1,0284 

20 

1,0580 

46 

1,0740 

72 

1,0604 

98 

1,0298 

21 

1,0589 

47 

1,0742 

73 

1,0580 

99        1 

1,0311 

22 

1,0598 

48 

1,0744 

74         I 

1,0553 

100 

1,0324 

23 

1,0607 

49 

1,0746 

75         j 

1,0337 

24 

1,0615 

50 

1,0747 

76 

1,0350 

25 

1,0623 

51 

1,0748 

77 

Note.  The  specific  gravities  above  1,0553  correspond  to  two  solutions  of  different 
percentage.  In  order  to  ascertain  whether  the  strength  of  any  given  acetic  acid  exceeds 
78  °'o,  the  maximum  density,  it  only  needs  the  addition  of  some  water.  If  the  specific  gravity 
increases,  the  acid  is  stronger  than  78  °/o,  if  it  decreases,  it  is  weaker. 


164 


Chemicals  and  Tables. 


Alum. 

Under  this  name  both  Ammonium  Alum,  Ali(SO.)a(NH4),SO<  +  24HiO  and  Potash  Alum, 
Al2(SO,)3.KjSO«  +  24HsO,  which  for  the  purposes  of  wool  dyeing  are  to  be  considered,  are 
put  upon  the  market. 

Commercial  Ammonium  Alum  and  Potash  Alum  are  generally  offered  in  a  verj-  pure 
slate,  and  are  almost  alike  in  their  properties  and  efiects. 

100  parts  water  dissolve  at  50°  F,  at  212"  F 

9     parts  422  parts  ammonium  alum 

9,5  parts  357  parts  potash  alum 

Alum  is  used  for  many  purposes  in  wool  dyeing.  In  dyeing  with  Alkali  Blue  it  serves 
as  an  acid  medium  for  souring  ofl";  also  as  an  auxiliary  mordant  in  dyeing  with  Resorcine  dye- 
stuffs;  it  is  employed  very  largely  moreover  for  the  production  of  the  alum  mordant  for  dyeing 
wool  materials  with  Alizarine  Red,  Alizarine  Orange  etc.,  also  as  a  developer  in  dyeing  with 
developing  dyestuffs,  which  are  fi.xed  with  alum.  For  all  these  purposes,  especially  in  dyeing 
Red,  care  must  be  taken  that  the  alum  be  free  from  iron.  It  is  also  used  in  Vigoureux  printing 
as  a  weak  acid. 

Aluminium  Chloride. 

Aluminium  Chloride,  AI2CI6+ 12H..O,  is  put  upon  the  market  in  the  form  of  soft  white 
to  yellowish  grains,  or  as  a  watery  solution  of  various  concentrations.  It  is  used  for  car- 
bonizing wool  materials,  but  its  reaction  is  weaker  than  that  of  sulphuric  acid,  and  is  based 
on  the  fact  that,  when  heated,  it  decomposes,  giving  off  hydrochloric  acid  gas.  It  is  employed 
for  colours  that  do  not  stand  carbonizing  with  sulphuric  acid,  and  especiallj'  for  piece  goods 
which  are  to  be  carbonized  after  dyeing.  As  the  alumina  oxide,  formed  during  the  dissociation, 
is  deposited  upon  the  wool  fibre,  and  is  apt  to  impart  a  disagreeable  handle  to  the  goods, 
the  use  of  aluminium  chloride  should  be  limited  to  those  cases  which  do  not  admit  of  car- 
bonizing with  sulphuric  acid. 

Aluminium  chloride  is  easily  soluble  in  water,  400  parts  dissolving  in  100  parts  cold 
water.  On  being  heated,  it  liquefies  even  without  anj'  addition  of  water.  The  following  table 
shows  the  percentages  of  newlj'  prepared  solutions: 


Specific  Gravity  and  Percentages  of  solutions  of  Aluminium  Chloride  at  59°  F. 

(Gerlach.) 


Specific 
Gravity 

Percentage 

Specific 
Gravity 

Percentage 

Specific 
Gravity 

Pcrcenlage 

Specific 
Gr.ivit)- 

Percentage 

1,00721 

1 

1,08902 

12 

1,17953 

23 

1,28080 

34 

1,01443 

2 

1,09684 

13 

1,18815 

24 

1,29046 

35 

1,02164 

3 

1,10466 

14 

1,19676 

25 

1,30066 

36 

1,02885 

4 

1,11248 

16 

1,20584 

26 

1,31086 

37 

1,03603 

5 

1,12073 

16 

1,21493 

27 

1,32106 

38 

1,04353 

6 

1,12897 

17 

1,22406 

28 

1,33126 

39 

1,06099 

7 

1,13721 

IS 

1,23310 

29 

1,34146 

40 

1,05845 

8 

1,14545 

19 

1,24219 

30 

1,35224 

41 

1,06591 

9 

1,15370 

20 

1,25184 

31 

1,35359 

41,126 

1,07337 

10 

1,16231 

21 

1,26194 

32 

t 

1,08120 

11 

1,17092 

22 

1,27115 

33 

Aluminium  Sulphate. 

Aluminium   Sulphate    or  Sulphate   of  Alumina,   AUfSOjjs -|- ISHjO,   85   parts  of  which 
dissolve   in   100   parts  cold  water,  1130  parts  in  100  parts  hot  water,  is  usually  put  upon  the 


Chemicals  and  Tables. 


165 


market  in  irregular  lumps.  Aluminium  sulphate,  which  is  cheaper  than  alum,  can  be  used 
for  the  same  purposes  as  the  latter;  in  its  effect,  60  parts  are  equivalent  to  100  parts  alum. 
Nevertheless,  alum  is  preferred,  as  it  oflfers  a  greater  guarantee  for  purity,  especially  for  the 
absence  of  iron   which,   e.  g.,    if  alumina  mordant  is  used,  has  a  tendency  to  dull  the  shades. 


Ammonia. 

Ammonia  or  Spirits  of  Ammonia,  NH3,  is  usually  put  upon  the  market  as  a  watery 
solution  of  various  concentrations;  more  rarely,  as  a  compressed  gas.  Being  a  volatile  alkali 
which  does  not  injuriously  affect  the  wool  fibre,  it  is  extensively  employed  in  the  manufacture 
of  woollen  goods,  especially  for  washing,  either  alone  or  in  conjunction  with  soap  or  soap 
and  soda;  also  for  neutralizing  dyebaths  and  retaining  their  alkaline  condition,  e.  g.  for  Ali- 
zarine dyestuflfs  or  such  as  equalize  with  difficulty,  and  lastly  as  an  alkali  not  injurious  to 
wool,  for  setting  and  controlling  the  hydrosulphlte  vat. 

The  percentages  of  solutions  of  commercial  ammonia  of  25  %,  to  which  all  references 
are  made  in  this  work,  are  shown  in  the  following  table: 

Specific  Gravity  of  solutions  of  Ammonia  at  59°  F  referred  to  water  of  59°  F=l. 
(Lunge  and  Wiernik  1898.) 


1  litre 

1  litre 

Specific 

Percentage 

contains 

Correction 

Specific 

Percentage 

contains 

Correction 

Gravity 

NH, 

at  59°  F 

for+l«C 

Gravity 

NH, 

at  59°  F 

for  +  1°  C 

1 

grammes  NH| 

grammesNHi 

1,000 

0,00 

0,0 

0,00018 

0,940 

15,63 

146,0 

0,00039 

0,998 

0,45 

4,5 

0,00018 

0,938 

16,22 

152,1 

0,00040 

0,996 

0,91 

9,1 

0,00019 

0,936 

16,82 

157,4 

0,00041 

0,994 

1,37 

18,6 

0,00019 

0,934 

17,42 

162,7 

0,00041 

0,992 

1,84 

18,2 

0,00020 

0,932 

]8,0B 

168,1 

0,00042 

0,990 

2,81 

22,9 

0,00020 

0,930 

18,64 

173,4 

0,00042 

0,983 

2,80 

27,7 

0,00021 

0,928 

19,25 

178,6 

0,00043 

0,986 

8,30 

32,5 

0,00021 

0,926 

19,87 

184,2 

0,00044 

0,984 

3,80 

37,4 

0,00022 

0,924 

20,49 

189,3 

0,00045 

0,982 

4,30 

42,2 

0,00022 

1      0,922 

21,12 

194,7 

0,00046 

0,980 

4,80 

47,0 

0,00028 

0,920 

21,75 

200,1 

0,00047 

0,978 

5,80 

51,8 

0,00023 

0.918 

22,39 

205,6 

0,00048 

0,976 

5,80 

56,6 

0,00024 

0,916 

23,03 

210,9 

0,00049 

0,974 

6,80 

61,4 

0,00024 

0,914 

23,68 

216,3 

0,00050 

0,972 

6,80 

66,1 

0,00025 

0,912 

24,33 

221,9 

0,00051 

0,970 

7,31 

70,9 

0,00025 

0,910 

24,99 

227,4 

0,00052 

0,968 

7,82 

75,7 

0,00026 

0,908 

25,65 

282,9 

0,00053 

0,966 

8,33 

80,5 

0,00026 

0,906 

26,31 

238,3 

0,00054 

0,964 

8,84 

85,2 

0,00027 

0,904 

26,98 

243,9 

0,00055 

0,962 

9.35 

89,9 

0,00028 

0,902 

27,65 

249,4 

0,00056 

0,960 

9,91 

95,1 

0,00029 

0,900 

28,33 

255,0 

0,00057 

0,958 

10,47 

100,8 

0,00030 

0,898 

29,01 

260,5 

0,00058 

0,956 

11,03 

105,4 

0,00031 

0,896 

29,69 

266,0 

0,00059 

0,954 

11,00 

110,7 

0,00032 

0,894 

30,37 

271,5 

0,00060 

0,952 

12,17 

115,9 

0,00033 

0,892 

31,05 

277,0 

0,00060 

0,950 

12,74 

121,0 

0,00034 

0,890 

31,75 

282,6 

0,00061 

0,948 

13,31 

126,2 

0,00035 

0,888 

32,50 

238,6 

0,00062 

0,946 

13,88 

131,3 

0,00036 

0,886 

33,25 

294,6 

0,00063 

0,944 

14,46 

186,5 

0,00037 

0,884 

34,10 

301,4 

0,00064 

0,942 

15,04 

141,7 

0,00033 

0,882 

34,96 

308,3 

0,00065    1 

166  Chemicals  and  Table*. 


The  figures  for  correction  in  column  4  apply  to  the  difference  of  temperature  between 
55  and  03"  F.  If,  e.  g.  at  55°  (13°  C),  the  specific  gravity  is  found  to  be  0,900,  it  must  be  put 
at  59°  (1.°  C)  as  2X0,00057  =  0,001  less,  which  gives  the  specific  gravity  as  0,^99,  whereby 
the  proportion  of  ammonia  becomes  'j",,  higher. 

Ammonium  Carbonate. 

Ammonium  Carbonate  or  Carbonate  of  .\inmonia,  in  its  pure  state  (NHilsCOj,  is  mostly 
sold  in  the  form  of  hartshorn  salt  which  has  a  more  complex  composition,  and  is  transformed 
in  hot  water  to  ammonium  carbonate.  In  wool  washing  it  is  used  as  a  mild  alkali,  as  addition 
to  washing  Ij'es,  and  also  sometimes,  e.  g.  in  the  manufacture  of  hats,  as  a  mild  neutralizing 
agent  for  acids. 

Ammonium  Chloride. 

Ammonium  Chloride  or  Sal  Ammoniac,  NIUCl,  forms  colourless  crystals,  33  parts  of 
which  are  soluble  in  100  parts  cold  water  and  73  parts  in  100  parts  hot  water;  it  is  sometimes 
used  for  neutralizing  alkaline  solutions,  and  in  wool  washing  as  addition  to  washing  lyes. 

Ammonium  Oxalate. 

Ammonium  Oxalate  or  Oxalate  of  Ammonia,  (Ml4|2C..04  +  HaO,  is  put  upon  tlie  market 
in  the  form  of  colourless  crystals.  It  can  be  used  in  the  same  manner  as  acetate  of  ammonia, 
in  order  to  retard  the  absorption  of  the  dyestufFs  which  equalize  with  difficulty,  by  the  gradual 
splitting  off  of  oxalic  acid  when  heated.  Its  chief  use,  however,  is  for  rendering  harmless  the 
lime  which  appears  dissolved  in  hard  water.  This  is  due  to  its  property  of  reacting  upon 
dissolved  lime  salts  and  precipitating  oxalate  of  lime.  Ammonium  oxalate  can  be  easilj'  pro- 
duced from  oxalic  acid  and  ammonia.  For  that  purpose  90  grammes  oxalic  acid  are  dissolved  in 
200  cc  water  of  not  abo\e  122°  F,  then  100— 110  cc  ammonia  25  "/o  are  added,  until  a  neutral 
reaction  takes  place.  Thus  a  solution  is  obtained  which  contains  100  grammes  ammonium  oxalate 
per  liter. 

Ammonium  Sulphocyanide. 

Ammonium  Sulphocyanide,  NHiSCN  forms  colourless  crystals  easily  soluble  in  water; 
it  is  noted  for  the  propertj'  of  being  converted  into  sulphocyanide  of  copper  in  a  watery  or 
acid  solution  with  copper  salts.  It  is  therefore  added  to  the  dj'ebath  containing  dyestuffs 
sensitive  to  copper,  in  order  to  protect  them  from  the  injurious  effects  of  the  copper  in  copper 
vessels  etc. 

Bichromate  of  Potash. 

Bichromate  of  Potash,  K^Cr-jO:,  is  put  upon  the  market  in  its  pure  state,  in  the  form 
of  large  reddish-yellow  crystals  which  are  not  hygroscopic.  10  parts  are  soluble  in  100  parts 
cold  water,  100  parts  in  100  parts  hot  w^ater.  It  is  extensively  used  in  wool  dyeing  for  the 
production  of  chrome  mordants  on  wool,  for  developing  the  chrome  developing  colours,  for 
stripping   shoddy,   also   for   the  production  of  other  chrome  mordants,  e.  g.  chromium  acetate. 

Bichromate  of  Soda. 

Bichromate  of  Soda  or  Sodium  Bichromate,  NajCrjO?  +  2HsO,  is  used  for  the  same  pur- 
poses as  bichromate  of  potash;  is  cheaper  and  more  easily  soluble;  its  reddish-yellow  crj-stals 
are  very  hygroscopic.  100  parts  cold  water  dissolve  100  parts,  100  parts  hot  water  dissolve 
160  parts  bichromate  of  soda.  It  is  sometimes  adulterated  with  neutral  bichromate  of  soda; 
a  good  quality  of  bichromate  of  soda  is  equivalent  to  the  same  quantity  of  bichromate  of 
potash,  and  may  be  used  in  wool  dyeing  instead  of  the  latter  without  hesitation. 


Chemicals  and  Tables.  167 

Bluestone. 

See  Sulphate  of  Copper. 

Borax. 

Borax  or  Sodium  Borate,  Na2B407  +  10H«O,  is  put  upon  the  market  in  its  pure  state, 
and  forms  large  monoclinic  prisms.  6  parts  are  soluble  in  100  parts  cold  water,  200  parts  in 
100  parts  hot  water.  It  has  a  slighllj'  alkaline  reaction,  on  account  of  which  it  is  used  for 
dyeing  Alkali  Blues.  Sometimes  it  is  also  used  as  a  neutralizing  agent,  e.  g.,  in  the  hat 
industry,  where  it  also  serves  to  make  the  shellac  solutions  which  are  used  for  stiffening  hats. 

British  Gum. 

British  Gum  is  a  thickening  much  employed  in  Vigoureux  printing,  obtained  by  roasting 
maize  starch,  and  is  put  upon  the  market  as  light  or  dark  coloured  powders.  The  former 
are  roasted  less,  and  contain  larger  quantities  of  still  unconverted  starch;  they  are  more  advan- 
tageous as  a  thickening.  On  the  other  hand,  the  darker  kinds  (roasted  more  completely)  are 
preferable  for  printing  with  alkaline  dyestuffs.  In  order  to  produce  a  British  gum  thickening, 
British  gum  is  mixed  with  water,  heated  until  completely  dissolved,  whilst  being  constantly 
stirred,  and  then  allowed  to  cool.  A  British  gum  thickening  contains  30— o0",o  British  gum 
powder. 

Burnt  Lime. 

Burnt  Lime  or  Caustic  Lime,  CaO,  when  mixed  with  water  is  known  as  slaked  lime, 
Ca{OH)2;  it  is  used  in  working  the  fermentation  vat,  viz:  for  neutralizing  the  organic  acids 
generated  by  the  process  of  fermentation,  and  by  interchange  with  soda,  for  producing  the 
caustic  alkali  necessary  for  dissolving  the  indigo  white. 

Calcium  Acetate. 

See  Acetate  of  Lime. 

Calcium  Hypochlorite. 

Calcium  H3'pochlorite,  CaOaClj,  is  put  upon  the  market  as  a  white  powder  smelling  of 
chlorine.  In  the  open  air  Calcium  Hypochlorite  is  very  hj-groscopic,  viz:  it  attracts  moisture 
and  carbonic  acid  and  loses  its  efficacy;  it  should  therefore  be  kept  in  clo.^ed  boxes.  1  part 
calcium  hj'pochlorite  dissolves  in  20  parts  cold  water,  leaving,  however,  an  insoluble  residue 
of  caustic  lime.  In  order  to  prepare  solutions  of  calcium  hypochlorite,  1  part  is  mixed  with 
3  parts  cold  water,  and  a  further  3  parts  of  water  added.  After  being  well  stirred,  the 
mixture  is  allowed  to  stand,  the  clear  liquid  is  drained  off  and,  if  necessary,  water  is  added. 
Calcium  hypochlorite  is  used  for  chlorinating  yarn,  and  sometimes  also  in  Vigoureux  printing. 

Carbonate  of  Ammonia. 

See  Ammonium  Carbonate. 

Carbonate  of  Potash. 

Carbonate  of  Potash  or  Potash,  in  its  desiccated  state  K2CO3,  in  its  crystalline  state 
K2CO3  +  IV2H2O,  forms  a  pure  white,  easily  deliquescent  substance.  Potash  is  much  used  in 
the  form  of  raw  vegetable  ash,  instead  of  soda  in  fermentation  vats.  Moreover,  the  easy 
solubility  of  its  fatty  acid  compounds  renders  it  serviceable  for  the  production  of  soaps 
(potash  or  soft  soaps),  and  it  is  therefore  largely  used  in  wool  washing.  Its  alkaline  reaction 
is  milder  than  that  of  tlie  cheaper  soda. 


168 


Chemicals  and  Tables. 


Carbonate  of  Soda. 

Carbonate  of  Soda  or  Soda,  is  put  upon  the  market  either  in  crystalline  form  as  soda 
crystals,  NajCOj  +  lOHtO,  or  as  calcined  soda,  Solvay  soda,  NajCOj,  more  rarely  as  so-called 
crystal  carbonate,  NajCOj  -f  HtO. 

Soda  crystals,  21  parts  of  which  dissolve  in  100  parts  cold  water,  420  parts  in  100  parts 
hot  water,  usually  contain  some  Glauber's  salt,  but  are  free  from  injurious  impurities.  In 
wool  dyeing  it  is  often  replaced  by  the  cheaper  calcined  soda  which  is  commercially  sold  in 
various  concentrations  and  purity.  Good  Solvay  soda  contains  at  least  98 °o  NajCOj,  and  is 
as  serviceable  in  wool  dyeing  as  soda  crystals.  Qualities  of  smaller  percentage,  however, 
should  only  be  used  after  being  tested  for  any  possible  admixtures,  such  as  caustic  soda  or 
sodium  sulphide. 

36  parts  pure  calcined  soda  correspond  to  100  parts  soda  crystals.  In  wool  dyeing, 
soda  is  largely  employed  for  washing  and  milling,  as  an  addition  to  soap,  in  order  to  enhance 
its  efficiency  and  for  neutralizing  carbonised  goods.  It  is  also  used  for  dyeing  Alkali  Blues, 
and  in  fermentation  vats  where  it  serves  for  neutralizing  the  acids  geneiatcd  in  the  process 
of  fermentation  and,  by  intercharge  with  the  lime,  supplies  the  caustic  alkali  requisite  for 
dissolving  the  indigo  white. 

The  subjoined  table  shows  the  concentration  of  pure  watery  solutions  of  soda. 


Specific  Gravity  and  Percentages  of  Solutions  of  Soda  at   59°  F. 

(Lunge.) 


Specific 

Depiees 

Degrees 

Per  Cent. 

by  Weight 

1  cbm  contains  kg 

Gravity 

Beaumc 

Twaddell 

Na.CO. 

Xa.CO, 
+  10  aq. 

Na.co.      ,     _^_  ,„  ^^ 

1,007 

1 

1,4 

0,67 

1,807 

6,8 

18,2 

1,014 

2 

2,8 

1,33 

3,587 

13,5 

36,4 

1,022 

3 

4,4 

2,09 

5,637 

21,4 

57,6 

1,029 

4 

5,8 

2,76 

7,444 

28,4 

766 

1,036 

5 

7,2 

8,43 

9,251 

35,5 

95,8 

1,045 

6 

9,0 

4,29 

11,570 

44,8 

120.9 

1,052 

7 

10.4 

4,94 

13,323 

52,0 

140,2 

1,060 

8 

12,0 

5,71 

15,400 

60,5 

163,2 

1,067 

9 

13,4 

6,37 

17,180 

68,0 

183,3 

1,075 

10 

15,0 

7,12 

19,203 

76,5 

206,4 

1         1,083 

u 

16,6 

7,88 

21,252 

85,3 

230.2 

1,091 

12 

18,2 

8,62 

23,248 

94,0 

253,6 

1,100 

13 

20,0 

9,43 

25,432 

103,7 

279,8 

1,108 

14 

21,6 

10,19 

27,482 

112,9 

304,5 

1,116 

15 

23,2 

10,95 

29,532 

122,2 

329,6 

1,125 

KJ 

25,0 

11,81 

31,851 

132,9 

358,3 

1,134 

17 

26,8 

12,61 

34.009 

143,0 

385,7 

1,142 

18 

28,4 

13,16 

35,493 

150.3 

405,3       ! 

1,152 

"■' 

30,4 

14,24 

1 

38,406 

164,1 

442,4       i 

Carbo-hydrates. 

Carbo-hydrates  of  most  diverse  origin  and  composition,  such  as  flour,  starch,  bran, 
rice,  rice  flour,  bread  dough,  sugar,  syrup,  raisins,  dates,  honey,  etc.  are  used  for  working  the 
fermentation   vats,    according   to   local    circumstances,   with    the   object   of  cultivating  bacteria. 


Chemicals  and  Tables 


169 


Caustic  Lime. 

See  Burnt  Lime. 


Caustic  Soda. 

Caustic  Soda  or  Sodium  Hydroxide,  NaOH,  is  put  upon  the  market  mostly  as  a  solution 
of  sodium  hydroxide.  In  its  pure  state  it  forms  a  white,  crystalline,  brittle  substance  easily 
soluble  in  water,  but  is  also  commercially  sold  in  solid  form  either  in  large  lumps,  or  little 
leaves  or  scales. 

Caustic  soda  is  used  in  wool  dyeing  in  the  zinc-bisulphite-soda  vat,  and  also  for  the 
production  of  soaps.  Caustic  soda  is  very  injurious  to  the  wool  fibre  on  account  of  its  corrosive 
reaction.  The  percentages  of  the  commercial  solutions,  —  provided  they  do  not  contain  manj- 
impurities,  such  as  soda,  Glauber's  salt  etc.  —  are  shown  in  the  following  table: 

Specific  Gravity  of  Caustic  Soda   at  59°  F. 
(Lunge.) 


Specific 

Be 

Twaddell 

°/. 

Specific 

Be 

Twaddell 

"/. 

Specific 

Be 

Twaddell 

Gravity 

NaOH 

Gravity 

NaOH 

Gravity 

NaOH 

1,007 

1 

1,4 

0,61 

1,142 

18 

28,4 

12,04 

1,320 

35 

64,0 

i 
28,83 

1,014 

2 

2,8 

1,20 

1,152 

19 

30,4 

13,55 

1,332 

36 

66,4 

29,93 

1,022 

3 

4,4 

2,00 

1,162 

20 

32,4 

14,37 

1,345 

37 

69,0 

31,22  1 

1,029 

4 

5,8 

2,71 

1,171 

21 

34,2 

15,13    ' 

1,357 

38 

71,4 

32,47  1 

1,036 

5 

7,2 

3.35 

1,180 

22 

36,0 

15,91 

1    1,370 

39 

74.0 

33,69  j 

1,045 

6 

9,0 

4,00 

1,190 

23 

38,0 

16,77 

1,383 

40 

76,6 

34,96 

1,052 

7 

10,4 

4,64 

1,200 

2t 

40,0 

17,67 

1,397 

41 

79,4 

36,25 

1,060 

8 

12,0 

5,29 

1,210 

25 

42,0 

18,58 

1,410 

42 

82,0 

37,47 

1,067 

9 

13,4 

5,87 

1,220 

26 

44,0 

19,58 

1,424 

43 

84,8 

38,80 

1,075 

10 

15,0 

6,55 

1,231 

27 

46,2 

20,59 

1,438 

44 

87.6 

39,99 

1,083 

11 

16,6 

7,31 

1,241 

28 

48,2 

21,42 

1,453 

45 

90,6 

41,41 

1,091 

12 

18,2 

8,00 

1,252 

29 

50,4 

22,64 

1,468 

46 

93,6 

42,83  : 

1,100 

13 

20,0 

8,68 

1,263 

30 

52,6 

23.67 

1,483 

47 

96,6 

44,H8 

1,10S 

14 

21,6 

9,42 

1,274 

31 

54,8 

24,81 

1,498 

48 

99,6 

46,15 

1,116 

15 

23,2 

10,06 

1,285 

32 

57,0 

25,80 

1,514 

49 

102,8 

47,60 

1    1,125 

16 

25,0 

10,97 

1,297 

33 

59,4 

26,83 

1,530 

50 

106,0 

49,u2 

i    1,134 

1 

17 

26,8 

11,84 

1,808 

34 

61,6 

27,80 

; 

Chloride  of  Tin. 

Chloride  of  Tin,  SnCU  +  SHjO,  is.  put  upon  the  market  as  a  white  crystalline  substance 
which  is  easily  soluble  in  water.  Chloride  of  tin  is  sometimes  used  instead  of  sulphuric  acid 
for  souring  off  Alkali  Blues,  and  renders  the  shades  faster  to  milling  than  the  latter. 

Chromaline. 

Under  the  designation,  Chromaline  D,  a  liquid  preparation  (latterly  also  offered  in  solid 
form)  is  put  upon  the  market,  produced  by  a  patented  process  of  Eberle  iS:  Co.,  Stuttgart. 
Chromaline  is  used  in  printing,  especially  for  slubbing,  as  a  substitute  of  chromium  acetate 
and  fluoride  of  chrome;  it  splits  into  acid  and  chromium  oxide  more  easilj*  than  these,  without 
being  unstable  at  the  ordinary  temperature. 

Chrome  Alum. 

Chrome  Alum,  K2S04  .Cr2(S04)3  +  24H»0,  is  put  upon  the  market  in  large  dark  violet 
crystals.     20  parts  chrome  alum  are  soluble  in  100  parts  cold  water,  50  parts  in  100  parts  hot 

Hale 


170  Chemicals  and  Tables. 


water.  It  serves  for  the  production  of  various  mordants,  e.  g.,  chromium  acetate;  it  is  also 
largely  used  in  wool  dj-eing  for  the  better  fixation  of  acid  dyestufts;  it  is  either  at  once  added 
to  the  dyebath,  or  used  for  aftertreating  the  colours. 

Chromic  Acid. 

Chromic  Acid,  CrOs,  forms  red,  very  hygroscopic  needles  which  are  very  easily  soluble 
m  water.    Chromic  acid  is  sometimes,  though  rarely,  used  for  mordanting  wool. 

Chromium  Acetate. 

See  Acetate  of  Chrome. 

Common  Salt. 

Common  Salt  or  Sodium  Chloride,  KaCl,  which  plays  an  important  part  in  cotton  dyeing 
as  addition  to  all  kinds  of  direct  dyeing  colours,  is  seldom  used  in  wool  dyeing.  It  is  some- 
times employed  in  wool  washing  as  an  addition  to  the  wash  liquors. 

Copper  Vitriol. 

See  Sulphate  of  Copper. 

Epsom  Salt. 

See  Magnesium  Sulphate. 

Fluoride  of  Chrome. 

Fluoride  of  Chrome,  CrsFlo  +  SHaO,  is  put  upon  the  market  as  a  green  crj'stalline  powder 
wliicli  is  easily  soluble  in  water.  It  serves  in  wool  dyeing  for  the  production  of  the  chrome 
mordant,  2— 4"o  fluoride  of  chrome  and  the  same  amount  of  oxalic  acid  being  used.  It  is, 
moreover,  employed  in  a  large  measure  for  afterchroming  developing  dyestufts,  and  as  chrome 

mordant  in  V'igourcux  printing. 

Formaldehyde. 

Formaldehyde,  HCHO,  is  a  very  volatile  compound,  easily  soluble  in  water,  of  pungent 
smell,  and  is  put  upon  the  market  as  a  solution  of  40"ij.  Formaldehyde  is  a  substance  of 
most  vigorous  reaction,  and  is  recommended  for  the  after-treatment  of  wool,  in  order  to  render 
the  same  immune  to  alkalies.  In  wool  dyeing,  it  also  serves  sometimes  for  after-treating  black 
direct  dyestufts,  used  for  covering  cotton  and  burs,  in  order  to  render  them  more  stable 
to  milling. 

Formiate  of  Chrome. 

Formiate  of  Chrome  Cr-  (HCOOje,  is  put  upon  the  market  as  a  pale  green  powder 
which  is  easily  soluble  in  water.  It  is  used  in  slubbing  dyeing,  in  place  of  acetate  of  chrome 
for  fixing  mordant  and  Vigoureux  dyestufts. 

Formic  Acid. 

Formic  acid,  H  .  COOH,  has  for  some  time  past  been  put  upon  the  market  at  such  a  reduced 
price  that  its  ready  application  in  wool  dyeing  has  become  possible.  In  its  concentrated 
state  it  is  a  colourless  fluid  of  pungent  smell  which  blisters  the  skin,  freezes  in  a  cold  tempera- 
ture, melts  at  47,5"  F,  and  boils  at  212°  F.  It  can  be  mi.xed  with  water  in  any  proportion, 
and  is  more  easily  volatile  with  steam  than  acetic  acid. 

Having  a  milder  reaction  than  sulphuric  acid,  formic  acid  is  mostly  used  in  wool  dyeing 
in  its  place,  and  also  as  a  substitute  for  acetic  acid  in  dyeing  with  acid  and  developing  dye- 
stufts   which    equalize    wilh    difficulty.     It   approaches,   however,    in    its   efficacy,   more  that  of 


Chemicals  and  Tables. 


171 


sulphuric  acid  tlian  that  of  the  weaker  acetic  acid.  Whilst  from  a  purely  chemical  standpoint, 
108  parts  formic  acid  85%  are  equivalent  to  100  parts  concentrated  sulphuric  acid  and  252 
parts  acetic  acid  50%,  in  practical  dyeing  about  150  parts  formic  acid  86 "o  give  the  same 
result  as  100  parts  cone,  sulphuric  acid  and  yield,  as  regards  the  exhaustion  of  the  baths,  a 
better  result  than  about  400  parts  acetic  acid  50%. 

Being  easily  oxidised,  formic  acid  is  also  used  instead  of  tartar  or  lactic  acid  for  the 
production  of  chrome  mordants.  In  this  case  about  2  parts  formic  acid  85%  correspond  to 
3  parts  lactic  acid  50 "o,  but  its  reducing  power  is  not  so  great  as  that  of  the  latter.  Lastly, 
formic  acid  is  used  as  a  volatile  acid  in  Vigoureux  printing,  as  well  as  for  acid  miUing  of 
woollen  goods  such  as  hats  and  felts,  in  combination  with  sulphuric  acid.  Formic  acid  is 
sold  commercially  in  various  concentrations.  In  the  present  work  the  formic  acid  referred 
to  is  an  acid  of  85%.  The  subjoined  table  shows  the  percentages  of  the  commercial  article. 
Specific  Gravity  of  Formic  Acid  at  68°  F.  compared  with  Water  of  39°  F. 
(Richardson  and  Allaire.) 


Specific 
Gravity 

weight 
CH.O. 

%  by 
Volume 
CH.Oa 

Specific 
Gravity 

"'oby 
Wright 
CH.Os 

CHjO, 

Specific 
Giavity 

■•;«  by 
weight 
CH.U, 

» 'o  by 
Volume 
CH.O, 

0,9983 

0 

0,00 

1,0247 

10 

8,40 

1,1425 

60 

56,13 

1,0020 

1 

0,82 

1,0371 

]5 

12,80 

1,1544 

65 

61,44 

1,0045 

2 

1,64 

1,0489 

20 

17,17 

1,1656 

70 

66,80 

1,0071 

3 

2,48 

1,0610 

25 

21,73 

1,1770 

75 

72,27 

1,0094 

4 

3,30 

1,0780 

30 

23,37 

1,1861 

80 

77,67    ) 

1,0116 

5 

4,14 

1,0848 

35 

31,10 

1,1954 

85 

88,19 

1,0142 

6 

4,98 

1,0964 

40 

35,90 

1,2045 

90 

88,74 

{      1,0171 

7 

5,81 

1,1086 

45 

40,82 

1,2141 

95 

94,48 

1      1,0197 

8 

6,68 

1,1208 

50 

45,88 

1,2213 

100 

100,00 

:     1,0222 

9 

7,55 

1,1321 

55 

51,01 

Fullers'  Earth, 

Fullers'  earth  is  impure  clay  (containing  residue  of  decomposed  silicates),  of  a  greenish, 
yellowish,  brownish  to  reddish  colour.  It  has  a  greasy  handle,  and  in  water  turns  into  a 
pulpy  mass.  It  is  used  as  addition  in  milling,  and  for  washing  goods  which  have  been  dyed 
with  mordant  and  other  dyestuffs  which  are  liable  to  tend  to  superficial  fixation  and  conse- 
quently are  not  fast  to  rubbing.  For  that  purpose  it  should  be  free  from  sandy  or  gritty 
admixtures. 

Glauber's  Salt. 

Glauber's  Salt,  Sulphate  of  Soda  or  Sodium  Sulphate  is  mostly  used  in  crystallized  form, 
Na2S04  + lOHjO,  more  rarely  as  calcined  Glauber's  Salt,  Na2S0j.  The  former  are  purer, 
more  easily  soluble,  and  can  therefore  be  worked  with  greater  facility.  Glauber's  salt  must 
be  free  from  all  excess  of  sulphuric  acid  and  iron. 

9  parts  calc.  Glauber's  salt  are  soluble  in  100  parts  cold  water,  42  parts  in  100  parts 
hot  water.    100  parts  crystallized  Glauber's  salt  are  equivalent  to  44  parts  calcined  Glauber's  salt. 

Glauber's  salt  is  most  extensively  employed  in  wool  dyeing  as  addition  to  acid  dyebaths, 
in  order  to  retard  the  absorption  of  the  dyestuffs  and  thereby  to  promote  the  evenness  and 
penetration  of  the  colours.  In  our  present  work,  crystallized  Glauber's  salt  is  always 
referred  to. 

Glue. 

Glue  is  a  nitrogenous  animal  substance  mostly  prepared  from  bones,  and  is  put  upon 
the  market  in  yellowish-brown  tablets.  Glue  is  used  in  the  improved  Hydrosulphite-Ammonia 
vat  Hoechst,  for  the  purpose  of  retaining  in  solution,  in  colloidal  form,  the  Indigo  white 
liberated  by  ammonia,  until  it  has  combined  with  the  wool  fibre.  Glue  is  also  used  in  finishing 
light  wool  goods. 


172 


Chemicals  and  Tables. 


Glycerine. 

Glj'cerine,  CsIIstOHla  it  put  upon  the  market  as  a  colourless  or  slightly  yellowish  viscous 
fluid  of  sweet  taste,  and  has  a  density  of  32','s— 48';j,''  Tw.  It  is  used  in  Vigoureux  printing 
as  addition  to  the  printing  pastes,  and  eflects  a  better  penetration  of  the  colours  into  the  tops. 

Hydrochloric  Acid. 

Hydrochloric  Acid  or  Muriatic  Acid,  HCI,  is  put  upon  the  market  as  a  colourless  or 
slightly  yellowish  solution  of  various  concentration.  Being  a  weaker  acid  than  sulphuric  acid> 
it  is  sometimes  used  instead  of  the  latter  in  dyeing  in  an  acid  bath.  Moreover,  it  serves  as 
a  carbonizing  agent,  especially  in  carbonizing  shoddy;  also  in  combination  with  nitric  acid  for 
strippin,'  rags;  also  for  removing  lime  soap.  The  concentration  of  hydrochloric  acid  is  shown 
in  the  following  table: 

Specific   Gravity   of  Hydrochloric  Acid.     (Lunge  and  Marchlewski.) 


Spec.  Grav. 
59"  F 

at 

39  •  F 

Degrees 
Beauni£ 

Degree. 
Twaddell 

lUO  parts  by  weight  contain 
in  chemically  pure  acid 

1  litre  contains  kgs 

(Vacuum) 

Per  Cent  HCI 

Acid  20*  Be 

HCI 

Acid  20*  Be 

1,000 

0,0 

0 

0,16 

0,49 

0,0016 

0,0049 

1,005 

0,7 

1 

1,15 

3,58 

0,012 

0,036 

1,010 

1,4 

2 

2,14 

(i,66 

0,022 

0,067 

1,015 

2,1 

3 

3,12 

9,71 

0,032 

0,099 

1,020 

2,7 

4 

4,13 

12,86 

0,042 

0,131 

1,025 

3,4 

5 

5,15 

16,04 

0,053 

0,164        1 

1,030 

4,1 

6 

6,15 

19,16 

0,064 

0,197 

1.035 

4,7 

7 

7,15 

22,27 

0,074 

0,231         i 

1,040 

5,4 

8 

8,16 

25,42 

0,085 

0,264 

1,045 

6,0 

9 

9,16 

28,53 

0,096 

0,298 

1,050 

6,7 

10 

10,17 

31,68 

0,107 

0,333 

1,055 

7,4 

11 

11, IS 

34,82 

0,118 

0,367 

1,060 

8,0 

12 

12,19 

37,97 

0,129 

0,403 

1,0G6 

8,7 

13 

13,19 

41,09 

0,141 

0,438 

1,070 

9,4 

14 

14,17 

44,14 

0,152 

0,472 

1,075 

10,0 

15 

1.-.,1G 

47,22 

0,163 

0,508        i 

1,080 

10,6 

16 

10,15 

.^0,31 

0,174 

0,543        j 

1,085 

11,2 

17 

17,13 

53,36 

0,18ti 

0,579 

1,090 

11,9 

18 

18,11 

56,41 

0,197 

0,615 

1,095 

12,4 

19 

19,06 

59,37 

0,209 

0,650 

1,100 

13,0 

20 

20,01 

62,33 

0,220 

0,686 

1,105 

13,6 

21 

20,97 

65,32 

0,232 

0,722 

1,110 

14,2 

22 

21,92 

68,28 

0,243 

0,758 

1,115 

14,9 

2.'5 

22,86 

71.21 

0,255 

0,794 

1,120 

15,4 

24 

23,82 

74,20 

0,267 

0,831 

1,125 

16,0 

25 

24,78 

77,19 

0,278 

0,868 

1,130 

16,5 

26 

25,75 

80  21 

0,291 

0,906 

1,135 

17,1 

27 

26.70 

83,18 

0,303 

0,944 

1,140 

17,7 

28 

27,66 

86,17 

0,315 

0.982 

1,1425 

18,0 

28,14 

87,66 

0,322 

1,002 

1,145 

18,3 

29 

28,61 

89,13 

0,328 

1,021 

1,150 

18,8 

30 

29,57 

92,11 

0,340 

1,059 

1,152 

19,0 

29,96 

93,80 

0,345 

1,075 

1,155 

19,3 

31 

80,55 

9.5,17 

0,353 

1,099 

1,160 

19,8 

32 

81, .52 

98,19 

0,366 

1,139 

1,163 

20,0 

32,10 

100,00 

0,373 

1,163 

1,165 

20,3 

33 

32,49 

101,21 

0,379 

1,179 

1,170 

20,9 

34 

33,40 

104,24 

0,392 

1,220 

1,171 

21,0 

33,60 

104,S2 

0,394 

1,227 

1,175 

21,4 

35 

34,42 

107,22 

0,404 

1,260 

1,180 

22,0 

36 

35,39 

110,24 

0,418 

1,301 

1,185 

22,5 

37 

36,31 

113,11 

0,430 

1,340        ! 

1,190 

28,0 

38 

37,23 

115,9S 

0,443 

1,380 

1,195 

23,5 

89 

38,16 

1KS87 

0,456 

1,421 

1,200 

24,0 

40 

39,11 

121,84 

0,469 

1,462 

Chemicals  and  Tables.  173 


Hydrosulphite. 

Hydrosulphite  or  Sodium  Hydrosulpliite,  NaaSzO,,  is  obtained  by  the  reduction  of  sodium 
bisulphite  with  zinc  dust,  as  an  aqueous  sokition  largely  used  in  vat  dyeing,  and  for  stripping 
slioddy  or  shades  which  are  too  deep.  The  following  directions  may  be  followed  for  the  pro- 
duction of  hydrosulphite  (15°  Be.)  SS'/a"  Tw. 

40  litres  bisulphite  (38°  Be.)  72°  Tw.  are  diluted  with  100  liters  water;  to  these  are  added, 
whilst  being  stirred  for  '/•.  hour,  6  kgs  zinc  dust  mixed  with  6  liters  water.  The  whole  is 
allowed  to  rest  for  1  hour,  after  which  4  kgs  caustic  soda  (lumps  or  leaves)  are  stirred  into 
it,  then  left  to  settle  and  the  clear  liquid  drawn  off. 

It  is  rarely  advisable  to  prepare  Hydrosulphite  solutions,  for  the  process  of  reduction  is 
liable  to  vary  on  a  small  scale,  and  strongly  caustic  solutions  which  affect  the  fibre  injuriously, 
are  obtained.  It  is  more  rational  to  use  reliable  preparations  put  upon  the  market,  viz:  Hydro- 
sulphite O  Hoechst  or  the  about  six  times  stronger  Hydrosulphite  cone,  powder,  these  contain 
no  excess  of  alkali;  their  properties  have  been  described  on  page  153. 

In  addition  to  these  hydrosulphites  intended,  in  the  first  place,  for  vat-dyeing,  the  follow- 
ing preparations  are  also  to  be  considered  in  wool  dyeing: 

Hydrosulphite  NF,  consisting  of  a  molecular  mixture  of  formaldehyde  hydrosulphite  and 
formaldehyde  bisulphite,  NaHSOa  .CHoO -f  2H20 -f  NaHSOa .  CH2O -f  2H2O,  and  containing 
about  44°/o  NaHSOj.  CH2O -|- 2H2O.  It  is  produced  by  the  reaction  of  formaldehyde  upon 
sodium  hydrosulphite  and  forms  white  solid  lumps  of  a  fine  crystalline  structure  which,  when 
protected  from  moisture  and  heat,  will  keep  for  months.  With  the  addition  of  acetic  acid, 
formic  acid  or  bisulphite,  it  serves  for  stripping  shoddy  and  piece  goods. 

Hydrosulphite  NF  cone,  is  a  new  compound  of  formaldehyde  hydrosulphite  of  high  per- 
centage, which  contains  88°;o  NaHSOi  .CH2O -f  2H2O;  it  is  therefore  twice  as  strong  as  Hydro- 
sulphite NF,  and  can  be  used  in  the  same  manner. 

Hydrosulphite  AZ  is  a  basic  compound  of  zinc  hydrosulphite  formaldehyde,  put  upon 
the  market  as  a  white  powder,  and  is  used  as  a  stripping  agent. 

Lactic  Acid. 

Lactic  Acid,  CH3CH(OH)COOH,  is  put  upon  the  market  as  an  aqueous  solution,  mostly 
containing  50°/o  lactic  acid,  in  which  form  it  appears  as  a  yellowish  to  brown  syrup;  it  is 
often  adulterated  with  sulphuric  acid,  sugar,  dextrine,  iron  and  other  substances;  its  specific 
gravity  is  1,178  (or  higher)  at  59°  F.  Owing  to  its  low  price  and  to  the  better  utilization  of 
the  chrome  baths  which  it  brings  about,  lactic  acid  is  very  extensively  used  in  place  of  tartar 
for  mordanting  wool;  it  is  often  used  in  the  developing  baths  in  conjunction  with  bichrome 
and  serves  for  the  better  fixation  of  many  chrome  developing  d3'estuffs.  When  dj'eing  devel- 
oping colours  upon  an  indigo  ground,  lactic  acid  is  added  to  the  developing  bath  in  order  to 
prevent  the  Indigo  ground  from  being  impaired  by  the  bichrome. 

Lactoline. 

Lactoline,  a  double  compound  of  lactic  acid  and  lactate  of  potash,  KC3H5O3 .  CsHeOa,  is 
put  upon  the  market  as  a  solution  of  50°/o  and  serves,  like  lactic  acid,  as  auxiliary  mordant 
for  the  production  of  chrome  mordants  upon  wool. 

Madder. 

Madder  is  a  powder,  which  contains  the  roots  of  various  madder  plants,  finely  ground. 
It  finds  sometimes  application  for  dyeing;  but  is  at  present  more  frequently  used  as  a  fer- 
mentation  agent   and   as  food  for  the  microbes  cultivated  for  the  setting  of  fermentation  vats. 

Magnesium  Chloride. 

Magnesium  Chloride,  MgCls  +  BHaO,  forms  easily  deliquescent  colourless  crystals,  but  is 
also  put  upon  the  market  in  a  desiccated  state  free  from  water,  as  a  white  granular  substance. 


Chemicals  and  Tables. 


100  parts  water  dissolve  cold  130  parts,  warm  360  parts  of  the  crystalline  salt.  Magnesium 
Chloride  is  sometimes  used,  similarly  to  aluminium  chloride,  for  carbonizing,  and  is  largely 
employed  in  finishing  light  wool  goods,  ai  its  hygroscopic  character  imparts  to  them  a  full 
heavy  handle. 

Magnesium  Sulphate. 

Magnesium  Sulphate   or  Epsom  Salt,  MgSOj  +  TlIsO,   forms   colourless  crystals  which 
are  easily  soluble  in  water,  and  serves  for  finishing  and  weighting  light  woollen  goods. 


Marseilles  Soap. 

See  Soap. 

Muriatic  Acid. 

See  Hydrocliloric  Acid. 


Nitric  Acid. 

Nitric  Acid,  HNOs,  is  put  upon  the  market  as  a  solution  of  various  concentrations.  In 
wool  dyeing  it  is  used  for  the  produclion  of  yellow  selvedges  upon  indigo  dyed  goods,  and 
sometimes  for  stripping  shoddy.  Nitric  acid  serves  for  testing  indigo,  upon  which  it  produces 
a  pure  yellow  spot  with  a  green  rim.  The  percentage  of  nitric  acid  is  seen  from  the  follo- 
wing table: 

Specific    Gravity   of  Nitric   Acid. 


Specific 

Degrees 

100  parls 
59 

contain  at          1 
F 

Specific 

Degrees 

If't)  parts  contain  at 
59°  F 

Gravity 

Be 

gm  HNO. 

gm  NflOs 

Gravity 

Be 

gm  HXO,           gm  N.O. 

1,000 

0 

0,1 

0,1 

1,165 

20,3 

27,1 

28,2       t 

1,005 

0,7 

1,0 

0,8 

1,170 

20,9 

27,9 

23,9 

1,010 

1,4 

1,9 

1,6 

1,175 

21,4 

28,6 

24,0 

1,015 

2,1 

2,8 

2,4 

1,180 

22,0 

29,4 

25,2 

1,020 

2,7 

3,7 

3,2 

1,185 

22,5 

30,1 

25,8 

1,025 

3,4 

4,6 

3,9 

1,190 

23,0 

30,9 

26.5 

1,030 

4,1 

5,5 

4,7 

1,195 

23,5 

31,6 

27,1 

1,035 

4,7 

6,4 

5,5 

1,200 

24,0 

82,4 

27,7 

1,040 

."),4 

7,3 

6,2 

1,205 

24,5 

33,1 

28,4       1 

1,045 

6,0 

8,1 

7,0 

1,210 

25,0 

33,8 

29,0 

1,050 

6,7 

9,0 

7,7 

1,215 

25,5 

34.5 

29,6 

1,055 

7,4 

9,8 

8,4 

1,220 

26,0 

35,3 

30,2 

1,060 

8,0 

10,7 

9,1 

1,225 

26,4 

36,0 

30,9 

1,065 

8,7 

11,5 

9,9 

1,230 

26,9 

36,8 

31,5 

1,070 

9,4 

12,3 

10,6 

1,235 

27,4 

37,5 

32,2 

1,075 

10,0 

13,1 

11,3 

1,240 

27,9 

38,3 

82,8 

1,080 

10,6 

13,9 

12,0 

1,245 

28,4 

39,0 

33,5 

1,085 

11,2 

14,7 

12,6 

1,250 

28,8 

39,8 

34,1 

1,090 

11,9 

15,5 

13,3 

1,255 

29,3 

40,6 

34,8 

1,095 

12,4 

16,3 

14,0 

1,260 

29,7 

41,3 

35,4 

1,100 

13,0 

17,1 

14,7 

1,265 

30,2 

42,1 

36,1 

1,105 

13,6 

17,9 

15,3 

1,270 

30,6 

42,9 

36,7 

1,110 

14,2 

18,7 

16,0 

1,275 

31,1 

43,6 

87,4 

1,110 

14,9 

19,4 

16,7 

1,280 

31,5 

44,1 

38,1 

1       1,120 

15,4 

20,2 

17,3 

1,285 

32,0 

45,2 

88,7       1 

:       1,1 2o 

16,0 

21,0 

18,0 

1,290 

32,4 

45,9 

39,4 

1,130 

16,5 

21,8 

18,7 

1,295 

32,8 

46,7 

40,0 

!,I3-'> 

17,1 

22,0 

19,3 

1,300 

83,3 

47,5 

40,7 

1,140 

17,7 

23,3 

20,0 

1,305 

33,7 

48,3 

41,4 

1,14.') 

18,3 

24,1 

20,6 

1,310 

34,2 

49,1 

42,1 

l.laO 

18,8 

24,8 

21,3 

1,316 

34,6 

49,9 

42,8 

\,V>0 

19,3 

25,6 

21.9 

1,320 

35,0 

50,7 

43,5 

1,160 

19,8 

26,4 

22,6 

1,325 

35,4 

51,5 

44,2 

Chemicals  and  Tables. 


175 


Specific 

Degrees 

100  parts  contain  at 
59"  F 

Speci6c 

Degrees 

100  parts 

5S 

contain  at 
0  p 

Gravitj- 

Be 

gin  UNO,     1       gm  N.O, 

Gravity 

Be 

gm  HNO, 

gm  N.Oj 

1,330 

35,8 

52,4 

44,9 

1,430 

43,4 

72,2 

61,9 

],335 

36,2 

53,2 

45,6 

1,435 

43,8 

73,4 

62,9 

1,340 

36,6 

54,1 

46,3 

1,440 

44,1 

74,7 

64,0 

1,345 

37,0 

54,9 

47,1 

1,445 

44,4 

76,0 

65,1 

1,350 

37,4 

55,8 

47,8 

1,450 

44,8 

77,3 

06,2       i 

1,355 

37,8 

56,7 

48,6 

1,455 

45,1 

78,6 

67,4 

1,360 

38,2 

57,6 

49,4 

1,460 

45,4 

80,0 

68,6 

1,365 

38,6 

58,5 

50,1 

1,465 

45,8 

81,4 

69,8 

1,370 

39,0 

59,4 

50,9 

1,470 

46,1 

82,9 

71,1 

1,375 

39,4 

60,3 

51,7 

1,475 

46,4 

84,4 

72,4 

1,380 

39,8 

61,3 

52,5 

1,480 

46,8 

86,0 

73,8 

1       1,385 

40,1 

62,2 

53,1 

1,485 

47,1 

87,7 

75,2 

1,390 

40,5 

63,2 

54,2 

1,490 

47,4 

89,6 

76,8 

1,395 

40,8 

64,2 

55,1 

1,495 

47,8 

91,6 

78,5 

1,400 

41,2 

65,3 

56,0 

1,500 

48,1 

94,1 

80,6 

1,405 

41,6 

66,4 

56,9 

1,505 

48,4 

96,4 

82,6 

1,410 

42,0 

67,5 

57,9 

1,510 

48,7 

98,1 

84,1 

1,415 

42,3 

68,6 

58,8 

1,515 

49,0 

99,1 

84,9 

1,420 

42,7 

69,8 

59,8 

1,520 

49,4 

99,7 

85,4 

1,425 

43,1 

71,0 

60,8 

' 

Oleine. 

Oleine  or,  more  correctly.  Oleic  acid,  C17H33.COOH,  is  a  by-product  from  the  manu- 
facture of  stearic  acid,  and  in  its  pure  state  is  a  colourless  oil  which  solidifies  in  a  cold  tem- 
perature and  melts  at  57°  F.  Oleine  forms  easily  soluble  alkali  salts,  and  can  therefore  be 
easily  removed  after  having  been  used  for  lubricating  the  wool  in  spinning.  It  is  also  employed 
for  the  production  of  soaps.  It  ought  to  be  free  from  all  substances  which  saponify  with  diffi- 
culty, especially  from  mineral  oils  and  stearine. 


Oxalate  of  Ammonia. 

see  Ammonium  Oxalate. 


Oxalic  Acid. 

Oxalic  Acid,  C204H)  +  2H2O,  is  put  upon  the  market  as  white  crystals.  It  is  soluble 
in  the  ninefold  quantity  of  cold  water,  but  easih*  soluble  in  hot  water.  Oxalic  acid  is  a  strong 
acid,  and  is  sometimes  used  instead  of  sulphuric  acid.  It  is  emploj-ed  especially  for  dyeing 
logwood  black  and  so-called  "combination  blacks"  produced  with  logwood,  black  wool  dyesluffs, 
iron  and  copper  vitriol.  It  serves  likewise  as  reducing  agent,  instead  of  tartar,  in  mordanting 
with  chrome  and  alum,  and  is  very  serviceable  for  stripping  alizarine  shades  which  are 
too  dark. 


Permanganate  of  Potash. 

see  Potassium  Permanganate. 


Peroxide  of  Hydrogen. 

Peroxide  of  Hydrogen,  HjOs,  is  usually  put  upon  the  market  as  a  solution  of  3%,  recently 
also  of  30 "0.  It  is  used  for  bleaching  white  wool  goods,  but  its  employment  has  become  more 
restricted  by  that  of  the  more  stable  and  cheaper  sodium  peroxide  which,  when  mixed 
with  acidified  water,  supplies  in  a  simple  manner  a  solution  of  peroxide  of  hydrogen. 


176 


Chemicals  and  Tables. 


Phenolphtaleine. 

Phenolphtaleine  is  much  used  for  analytical  purposes,  as  an  indicator:  it  is  not  coloured 
by  acids  but  shows  a  deep  red  violet  colour  when  coming  into  contact  with  alkalies.  An 
alcoholic   solution    1  :  100    is   used    for   testing  the  alkalinitj-  of  the  Hydrosulphite  vat  Hocchst. 

Potash. 

see  Carbonate  of  Potash. 

Potash  Alum. 

see  Alum. 

Potassium  Bicarbonate. 

see  Carbonate  of  Potasli. 

Potassium  Permanganate. 

Potassium  Permanganate  or  Permanganate  of  Potash,  KMnO*.  forms  dark  red  needles 
which  have  a  peculiar  metallic  lustre;  it  is  easily  soluble  in  hot  water  and  is  sold  commer- 
cially in  very  pure  form.  It  is  used  in  wool  dyeing  for  bleaching,  in  which  case  the  goods 
are  first  treated  with  potassium  permanganate  and  then  with  sulphuric  acid. 

Pyrolignite  of  Iron. 

PjTolignite  of  Iron  is  obtained  by  dissolving  iron  in  pyrolignous  acid  (w-ool  vinegar), 
or  by  double  reaction  of  pyrolignite  of  lime  upon  iron  vitriol,  and  is  used  as  a  mordant  for 
fi.King  alizarine  dyestuffs  in  Vigoureux  printing. 

Specific  Gravity  and  Percentage  of  Solutions  of  pyrolignite  of  Iron   at  GVjt"  F. 


Specific 

Degrees 

gni.  FeiOj 

Specific 

Degrees 

gm.  Fe,03 

Specific 

Dcgre« 

gm.  Fe,0, 

Gravity 

Beaunie 

in  litre 

Gravity 

Beaume 

in  litre 

Gravity 

Heaume 

in  litre 

1,274 

31,0 

190 

1,179 

21,9 

125 

1,088 

11,7 

60 

1,266 

30,3 

185 

1,172 

21,2 

120 

1,081 

10,7 

55 

1,258 

29,5 

180 

1,165 

20,3 

115 

1,074 

9,9 

50 

1,250 

28,8 

175 

1,158 

19,6 

no 

1,067 

9,0 

45 

1,242 

2S,0 

170 

1,151 

18,9 

105 

;     1,060 

8.0 

40 

1,235 

27,4 

165 

1,144 

18,2 

100 

i      1,053 

■^,1 

35       1 

1,223 

26,7 

160 

1,137 

17,4 

95 

1      1,046 

6,1 

80 

1,221 

26,1 

155 

1,130 

16,5 

90 

'     1,039 

5,2 

25 

1,214 

25,4 

150      j 

1,123 

15,7 

85 

1,032 

4,3 

20 

1,207 

24,7 

145 

1,116 

15,0 

80 

i      1,025 

3,4 

15 

1      1,200 

24,0 

140 

1,109 

14,1 

76 

1,018 

2.4 

10 

1,193 

28,3 

135      1 

1,102 

13,2 

70 

1,010 

1,4 

5 

1,1S6 

22,6 

130 

1,095 

12,4 

65 

Sal  Ammoniac. 

see  Ammonium  Chloride. 

Soap. 

Soap  consists  chiefly  of  neutral  salt  formed  by  fatty  acid  and  alkali.  Two  kinds  of 
soap  must  be  distinguished:  hard  soaps  which  are  soda  soaps,  and  soft  soaps  which  are  potash 
soaps.  As  the  latter  cannot  be  treated  with  caustic  salt  (salted  out),  they  usually  contain 
impurities  such  as  superfluous  alkali,  glycerine,  etc.,  and  are  therefore  not  to  be  recommended 
for  the  purposes  of  wool  dyeing.  Even  hard  soaps  contain  sometimes  injurious  substances. 
A  good  soap  for  wool  dyeing  must  be  free  from  fi.xed  alkali  and  unsaponified  fat.     As  a  rule. 


Chemicals  and  Tables.  177 


the  so-called  Marseilles  Soap  obtained  from  pure  olive  oil  and  caustic  soda,  is  used.  Cheaper 
kinds  of  soap  are  manufactured  from  other  materials,  such  as  tallow,  oieine,  palm  oil,  linseed 
oil  etc.,  and  can  be  used  for  wool  washing  and  milling  if  they  are  free  from  injurious  alkali 
and  unsaponified  fats  or  oils  and  unsaponifiable  substances. 

Considering  the  great  sensitiveness  of  the  wool  fibre  to  free  alkali,  and  the  great  dis- 
advantages accruing  from  unsaponifiable  or  unsaponified  substances  when  precipitated  upon 
the  fibre,  it  is  seldom  advisable  for  a  dyer  to  make  the  soaps,  unless  a  constant  chemical 
control  of  the  raw  materials  used  can  be  carried  out,  otherwise  it  is  preferable  to  buy  them 
from  a  reliable  soap  factory. 

Soap  is  used  for  washing  and  milling  all  kinds  of  wool  and  for  dj'eing  basic  dyestuffs 
in  the  soap  bath. 

A  soap  analysis  can  be  made  with  sufficient  accuracy  for  most  practical  purposes 
according  to  the  following  method: 

Water.  A  certain  quantity  of  soap,  say  3  grammes  is  mixed  with  about  10  grammes 
perfectly  dry  quartz  sand  in  a  porcelain  dish,  and  the  whole  weighed-  After  adding  a  little  alcohol 
to  accelerate  the  evaporation  of  the  remaining  water,  the  mixture  is  continually  stirred  and  dried 
until  a  constant  weight  is  obtained.  The  loss  indicated  bj^  the  difference  in  weight  represents 
water. 

Fatty  Acid.  The  following  method  is  sufficient  for  all  practical  purposes:  A  quantity 
of  soap,  say  3  grammes  accurately  weighed,  is  dissolved  in  water  in  a  porcelain  dish.  The  fatty 
acid  is  then  precipitated  with  an  excess  of  normal  sulphuric  acid  and  melted  with  exactly 
10  grammes  pure  and  perfectly  dry  wax.  The  wax  cake  which  easily  separates  on  cooling,  is 
rinsed  in  cold  water  and  then  dried,  first  with  filter  paper  and  then  in  the  desiccator  until  a 
constant  weight  is  obtained. 

Total  Alkali.  The  filtrate  obtained  by  the  fattj'  acid  test  is  neutralized  with  normal 
soda  lye  and  phenolphtaleine.  The  number  of  cc  soda  lye  used,  deducted  from  the  number 
of  cc  normal  sulphuric  acid,  shows  the  sum  total  of  alkali,  1  cc  normal  sulphuric  acid  being 
equivalent  to  0,031  grammes  Na20. 

Another  method  is  to  titrate  100  cc  soap  solution  containing  2—3  grammes  soap  direct 
with  normal  acid  and  Methyl  Orange,  until  a  red  tinge  appears,  1  cc  normal  acid  is  equal  to 
0,031  grammes  NasO. 

Free  Alkali,  Qualitative  Test.  If  a  newly  cut  surface  of  the  soap  is  touched  with 
a  few  drops  of  mercury  chloride  solution,  a  brownish  yellow  to  reddish  brown  colour  will 
appear,  according  to  the  amount  of  free  alkali. 

Glycerine.  20 — 25  grammes  soap  are  dissolved  with  100  cc  water,  then  the  fatty  acid 
precipitated  with  sulphuric  acid  until  acid  reaction  sets  in,  and  removed  with  wax.  The 
filtrate  is  neutralized  with  potash,  evaporated  till  dry,  finely  powered  and  extracted  with  pure 
alcohol.  The  extracted  solution  is  filtered  into  a  glass  of  known  tare  and  heated  on  a  water 
bath  or,  better  still,  to  122 — 140°  F.,  until  constant  weight  is  obtained     The  residue  is  glycerine. 

Unsaponified  Fat.  About  20—25  grammes  of  very  finely  powdered  and  dried  soap  are 
extracted  with  ligroine  in  the  Soxhlet  extraction  apparatus  for  3—4  hours,  the  ligroine  evap- 
orated and  the  fat  weighed.  Traces  of  soap  being  soluble  in  ligroine,  a  portion  ot  the  soap 
separated  in  the  flask  must  be  poured  off,  rinsed,  and  the  corresponding  correction  be  made: 
100  cc  ligroine  dissolve  0,01  grammes  soap. 

Soda. 

see  Carbonate  of  Soda. 

Soda  Lye. 

see  Caustic  Soda. 


Sodium  Acetate. 

see  Acetate  of  Soda. 

121  e 


178 


Chemicals  and  Tables. 


Sodium  Bichromate. 

Sfe  Bichromate  of  Soda. 

Sodium  Bisulphate. 

Sodium  Bisulphate  or  Tartar  Substitute,  NaHSO,  +  HiO,  is  put  upon  market  as  colour- 
less crystals  which  are  easily  soluble  in  water.  In  solution  10  parts  tartar  substitute  have  the 
same  effect  as  a  mi.xture  of  10  parts  crj'stallized  Glauber's  salt  and  4  parts  cone,  sulphuric 
acid.  Tartar  substitute  is  therefore  used  in  the  same  manner  as  these,  in  dj'eing  in  an  acid 
bath.  It  also  serves  sometimes  as  a  carbonizing  agent  of  a  milder  reaction  than  sulphuric  acid. 
Tartar  substitute  is  often  adulterated  with  iron. 


Sodium  Bisulphite. 

Sodium  Bisulphite  or  Bisulphite  is  put  upon  the  market  either  a  sodium  bisulphite 
crystals,  NaHSOs,  or  as  sodium  pyrosulphite  NaiSsOs,  or  which  is  mostly  the  case,  in  the 
form  of  solution  of  64—72"  Tw.  It  is  used  for  the  production  of  the  hydrosulphite  necessary 
for  preparing  the  hj'drosulphite  indigo  vat,  and  in  dyeing  white,  or  bleaching  of  wool  goods. 
The  following  table  shows  the  percentage  of  sodium  bisulphite  solutions  which,  owing  to  a 
slight  admixture  of  iron,  generally  have  a  yellowish  tinge: 

Specific  Gravity  and  Percentage  of  Solutions  of  Sodium  Bisulphite  at  59"  F. 


1        Speafic 

Degrees 

Per  Cent 

Per  Cent 

SpeciGc 

Degrees 

Per  Cent 

Per  Cent 
SO. 

Gravity 

Bcaume 

NaHSO. 

SO. 

Gravity 

Beaume 

NaHSO. 

1,008 

1 

0,6 

0,4 

1,171 

21 

18,5 

10,2 

1,022 

3 

2,1 

1,3 

:          1,190 

23 

18,5 

11,5 

1,03S 

b 

3,6 

2,2 

1,210 

25 

20,9 

12,9 

1,052 

7 

0,1 

3,1 

1,230 

27 

23,5 

14,5 

1,068 

9 

6,5 

3,9 

1,252 

29 

25,9 

15,9 

1,084 

11 

8,0 

4,8 

1,275 

31 

28,9 

17,8 

1,100 

13 

9,5 

5,7 

1,298 

33 

31,7 

19,6 

1,116 

lo 

11,2 

6,8 

1,321 

35 

34,7 

22,5 

i,v.n 

17 

12,8 

7,8 

1,346 

37 

38 

23,6       ! 

l,ir.2 

19 

14,6 

9,0 

Sodium  Borate. 

see  Borax. 

Sodium  Carbonate. 

see  Soda. 

Sodium  Chlorate. 

Sodium  Chlorate,  NaClOa,  is  put  upon  the  market  in  the  form  of  crystals,  and  is  preferred 
to  its  corresponding  potassium  salt  because  of  its  greater  solubility  and  cheapness.  Sodium 
Chlorate  must  be  stored  with  caution,  as  it  is  explosive  when  brought  into  contact  with  com- 
bustible material.  100  parts  cold  water  dissolve  100  parts,  100  parts  hot  water  dissolve 
H30  parts  sodium  chlorate.  As  an  oxidizer  which  does  not  affect  the  shades,  it  is  used  where, 
under  the  influence  of  heat,  the  wool  substance  acts  as  a  reducing  agent,  and  the  dyestutTs 
show  a  tendency  to  decompose,  e.  g.  in  steaming,  and  especiallj-  in  Vigoureux  printing,  as  a 
preventative  against  the  destruction  of  the  dyestuffs. 

Sodium  Chloride. 

see  Common  Salt. 


Chemicals  and  Tables.  179 


Sodium  Hydrosulphite. 

see  Hydrosulphite. 

Sodium  Hydroxide. 

see  Caustic  Soda. 

Sodium  Peroxide. 

Sodium  Peroxide,  Na^Oo,  forms  a  wiiite  powder  which  is  deliquescent  and  decomposes 
in  the  open  air.  IVIixed  cold  with  diluted  acid  it  dissolves  forming  peroxide  of  hydrogen.  It 
is  used  for  bleaching  all  kinds  of  woollen  goods  instead  of  the  dearer  and  more  unstable 
peroxide  of  hydrogen.  Sodium  peroxide  must  be  kept  with  great  caution  in  closed  vessels, 
owing  to  its  tendency  "to  fire". 

Sodium  Phosphate. 

Sodium  Phosphate,  Na2HP04  +  12H.,0,  4  parts  of  which  dissolve  in  100  parts  cold 
water,  100  parts  in  100  parts  hot  water,  forms  crystals  which  decompose  when  exposed  to 
air.  On  account  of  its  weak  alkaline  reaction  it  is  used  for  the  even  fixation  of  Dianil  dye- 
stuffs  in  Vigoureux  printing. 

Sodium  Silicate. 

Sodium  Silicate  or  Waterglass,  Na-jSiiOa,  is  put  upon  the  market  as  a  thick  aqueous 
solution,  mostly  of  72—77°  Tw.  Owing  to  its  weak  alkaline  reaction  it  serves  in  dyeing 
Alkali  Blues. 

Sodium  Sulphate. 

see  Glauber's  salt. 

Sodium  Thiosulphate. 

Sodium  Thiosulphate,  NajSaOs  +5H2O,  102  parts  of  which  are  soluble  in  100  parts  cold 
water,  forms  coLurless  crystals.  In  the  presence  of  hydrochloric  acid  or  sulphuric  acid  sodium 
thiosulphate  decomposes,  sulphurous  acid  being  formed  and  very  finely  divided  sulphur  is 
separated.  It  is  therefore  used  for  dyeing  Brilliant  Green  and  Malachite  Green  upon  "Sulphur 
Mordant". 

Spirits  of  Ammonia. 

see  Ammonia. 

Starch. 

Starch  (CeHioOsjn  is  a  carbo-hydrate  insoluble  in  cold  water.  On  being  heated  with 
water  starch  begins  to  swell  at  about  140"  F.  and  is  transformed  into  so-called  starch  paste, 
which  is  used  as  an  excellent  thickening  in  Vigoureux  printing.  Of  the  various  kinds  of 
starch,  such  as  wheat,  rice,  maize,  potato-starch,  the  first  named  and  the  "burnt  starch"  obtained 
from  it  by  roasting  —  in  a  lighter  or  darker  colour,  according  to  the  degree  of  roasting  — 
are  those  most  used  in  Vigoureux  printing.  Roasting  converts  starch  more  or  less  into 
dextrine.  As  a  thickening  the  lighter  sorts  of  burnt  starch  are  more  profitable  than  the 
darker  ones. 

In  order  to  produce  a  starch  thickening,  the  starch  is  mixed  with  water  and  heated 
whilst  being  continually  stirred.  It  swells  and  thickens  up  to  a  certain  point,  when  it  grows 
thinner  again.  At  that  stage  the  heating  must  be  stopped,  and  the  paste  allowed  to  cool. 
The  thickenings  suitable  for  printing  purposes  contain  12— 20''o  starch. 


180  Chemicals  and  Tables. 


Sulphate  of  Alumina. 

see  Aluminium  Sulphate. 

Sulphate  of  Copper. 

Sulphate  of  Copper,  Copper  Vitriol  or  Bluestone,  CuSO«  +  5HjO,  forms  blue  crystals. 
40  parts  are  soluble  in  100  parts  cold  water,  203  parts  in  100  parts  hot  water.  It  is  used  in 
wool  dyeing  for  the  production  of  mordants  for  logwood,  and  is  employed  in  combination  with 
copperas,  logwood  and  black  Azo  dyestufls,  for  the  so-called  Combination  Black.  Copper  vitriol 
is  used  moreover  for  developing  certain  developing  dyestufls. 

Sulphate  of  Iron. 

Sulphate  of  Iron  or  Iron  Vitriol,  Copperas,  FeSOi  +  7 IhO,  forms  bluish  green  crystals 
which  easily  turn  brown  when  exposed  to  air.  GO  parts  sulphate  of  iron  dissolve  in  100  parts 
cold  water,  333  parts  in  100  parts  hot  water.  In  wool  dyeing  it  is  used  as  a  mordant  for 
logwood  black,  and  is  mostl}'  employed  in  conjunction  with  sulphate  of  copper.  It  serves 
mainly  for  the  production  of  the  so-called  Combination  Black,  obtained  from  logwood  and  black 
Azo  dj-estufts. 

Sulphate  of  Magnesia. 

see  Magnesium  Sulphate. 

Sulphate  of  Soda. 

see  Glauber's  Salt. 


Sulphocyanide  of  Ammonia. 

see  Aminoium  Sulphocj'anide. 

Sulphur. 

Sulphur,  S,  is  put  upon  the  market  either  in  sticks  or  in  the  form  of  a  fine  powder,  as 
flowers  of  sulphur.  It  burns,  forming  at  the  same  time  sulphurous  acid  gas  which  has  a 
bleaching   effect   on   the   animal   fibre.    For  that   reason   it  is  used  for  bleaching  wool  goods. 


Sulphuric  Acid. 

Sulphuric  Acid,  HjSOi,  is  put  upon  the  market  as  a  heavy,  thick,  slightly  coloured  liquid 
of  various  concentrations,  mostly  as  an  acid  of  168°  Tw.  (to  this  acid  all  references  in  the  present 
work  apply).  Concentrated  sulphuric  acid  combines  with  water  under  generation  of  heat, 
forming  so-called  hydrates;  consequently  in  diluting  concentrated  sulphuric  acid,  caution  must 
be   exercised  by  alwaj's  stirring  it  slowlj'  into  cold  water  (water  must  never  be  poured  on  it). 

Sulphuric  acid  is  most  extensively  used  in  wool  dj'eing  with  acid  and  chrome  developing 
dyestufts,  generally  in  conjunction  with  Glauber's  salt.  Likewise,  as  auxiliary  in  mordanting 
wool  with  bichromate  of  potash,  either  alone  or  in  combination  with  lactic  acid  etc.  Sulphuric 
acid  is  also  largely  employed  for  carbonizing  wool  and  wool  goods;  furthermore  as  a  milling 
agent  (acid  milling)  for  wool  goods,  felts  and  hats,  and,  lastly,  for  stripping  shoddy. 

The   strength  of  sulphuric  acid  can  be   determined  by  the  aid  of  the  following  table: 


Chemicals  and  Tables. 


181 


S  p  e  c  i  f  i  c 

Gravity 

of  Sulpli 

uric   A 

cid. 

(Lunge 

and  Isler.) 

Specific 

"§ 

1 

100  parts  by 
weight 

1  litre 
contains  of 

Specific 

"1 

T3 

100  pans  by 
weight 

1  litre 

Gravity 
59"  F 

P5 

H 

contain  of 
chemically 

chemically 

Gravity 
59*  F 

Cq 

contain  of 
chemically 

chemically 

at 

39"  F 
(Vacciium) 

0 

Q 

pure  acid 

pure  acid 

at 

89"  F 
(Vacuum) 

Q 

Q 

pure  acid 

pure  acid 

Per  Cent 
H.SO. 

kg 
H.bO, 

Per  Cent 
HsSO. 

H,bO. 

1,000 

0 

0 

0,09 

0,001 

1,280 

31,5 

56 

36,87 

0,472 

1,005 

0,7 

1 

0,83 

0,008 

1,285 

32,0 

57 

37,45 

0,481 

1,010 

1,4 

2 

1,57 

0,016 

1,290 

32,4 

58 

38,03 

0,490 

1,015 

2,1 

3 

2,30 

0,023 

1,295 

32,8 

59 

38,61 

0,500 

1,020 

2,7 

■    4 

3,03 

0,031 

1,300 

33,3 

60 

.39,19 

0,509 

1,025 

3,4 

5 

3,76 

0,039 

1,305 

33.7 

61 

39,77 

0,519 

1,030 

4,1 

6 

4,49 

0,046 

1,310 

34,2 

62 

40,35 

0,528 

1,035 

4,7 

7 

5,23 

0,054 

1,315 

34,6 

63 

40,93 

0,538 

1,040 

5,4 

8 

5,96 

0,062 

1,320 

35,0 

64 

41,50 

0,648 

1,045 

6,0 

9 

6,67 

0,071 

1,325 

35,4 

65 

42,08 

0,557 

1,050 

6,7 

10 

7,37 

0,077 

1,330 

35,8 

66 

42,66 

0,567 

1,055 

7,4 

11 

8,07 

0,085 

1,335 

36,2 

67 

43,20 

0,577 

1,060 

8,0 

12 

8,77 

0,093 

1,340 

36,6 

68 

43,74 

0,586 

1,065 

8,7 

13 

9,47 

0,102 

1,345 

37,0 

69 

44,28 

0,596 

1,070 

9,4 

14 

10,19 

0,109 

1,350 

37,4 

70 

44,82 

0,605 

1,075 

10,0 

15 

10,90 

0,117 

1,3.55 

37,8 

71 

45.35 

0,614 

1,080 

10,6 

16 

11,60 

0,125 

1,360 

38,2 

72 

45,88 

0,624 

1,085 

11,2 

17 

12,30 

0,133 

1,366 

38,6 

73 

46,41 

0,633 

1,090 

11,9 

18 

12,99 

0,142 

1,370 

39,0 

74 

46,94 

0,643 

1,095 

12,4 

19 

13,67 

0,150 

1,375 

39,4 

75 

47,47 

0,663 

1,100 

13,0 

20 

14,35 

0,158 

1,380 

39,8 

76 

48,00 

0,662 

1,105 

13,6 

21 

15,03 

0,166 

1,385 

40,1 

77 

48,53 

0,672 

1,110 

14,2 

22 

15,71 

0,175 

1,390 

40,5 

78 

49,06 

0,682 

1,115 

14,9 

23 

16,36 

0,183 

1,395 

40,8 

79 

49,.59 

0,692 

1,120 

15,4 

24 

17,01 

0,191 

1,400 

41,2 

80 

50,11 

0,702 

1,125 

16,0 

25 

17,66 

0,199 

1,405 

41,6 

81 

50,63 

0,711 

1,130 

16,5 

26 

18,31 

0,207 

1,410 

42,0 

82 

51,16 

0,721 

1,135 

17,1 

27 

18,96 

0,215 

1,415 

42,3 

83 

51,66 

0,7.30 

1,140 

17,7 

28 

19,61 

0,223 

1,420 

42,7 

84 

62,16 

0,740 

1,145 

18,3 

29 

20,26 

0,231 

1,425 

43.1 

85 

52,63 

0,750 

1,150 

18,8 

30 

20,91 

0,239 

1,430 

43,4 

86 

53,11 

0,7.59 

1,155 

19,3 

31 

21,55 

0,248 

1,435 

43,8 

87 

53,59 

0,769 

1,160 

19,8 

32 

22,19 

0,257 

1,440 

44,1 

88 

54,07 

0,779 

1,165 

20,3 

33 

22,83 

0,266 

1,446 

44,4 

89 

54,56 

0,789 

1,170 

20,9 

34 

23,47 

0,275 

1,450 

44,8 

90 

55,03 

0,798 

1,175 

21,4 

35 

24,12 

0,283 

1,455 

45,1 

91 

55,50 

0,808 

1,180 

22,0 

36 

24,76 

0,292 

1,460 

45,4 

92 

55,97 

0,817 

1,185 

22,5 

37 

25,40 

0,301 

1,465 

45,8 

93 

56,43 

0,827 

1,190 

23,0 

38 

26,04 

0,310 

1,470 

46,1 

94 

56,90 

0,837 

1,195 

23,5 

39 

26,68 

0,319 

1,475 

46,4 

^ 

57,37 

0,846 

1,200 

24,0 

40 

27,32 

0,328 

1,480 

46,8 

57,83 

0,856 

1,205 

24,5 

41 

27,95 

0,337 

1,485 

47,1 

97 

58,28 

0,865 

1,210 

25,0 

42 

28,58     ' 

0,346 

1,490 

47,4 

98 

58,74 

0,876 

1,215 

25,5 

43 

29,21 

0,355 

1,495 

47,8 

99 

59,22 

0,885 

1,220 

26,0 

44 

29,84 

0,364 

1,500 

48,1 

100 

59,70 

0,896    ' 

1,226 

26,4 

45 

30,48 

0,373 

1,505 

48,4 

101 

60,18    ' 

0,906    1 

1,230 

26.9 

46 

31,11 

0,382 

1,510 

48,7 

102 

60,66 

0,916 

1,235 

27,4 

47 

31,70 

0,391 

1,515 

49,0 

103 

61,12 

0,926 

1,240 

27,9 

48 

32,28    ( 

0,400 

1,520 

49,4 

104 

61,59 

0,936 

1,245 

28,4 

49 

32.86 

0,409 

1,525 

49,7 

105 

62.06    ' 

0,946    > 

1,250 

28,8 

50 

33,43     1 

0,418 

1,530 

.50,0 

106 

62,53 

0,957 

1,255 

29,3 

51 

34,00 

0,426 

1,535 

50,3 

107 

63,00 

0,967 

1,260 

29,7 

52 

34,57 

0,435 

1,540 

50,6 

108 

63,43 

0,977 

1,265 

30,2 

53 

35,14 

0,444 

1,545 

50,9 

109 

63,85 

0,987 

1,270 

30,6 

54 

35,71 

0,454 

1,550 

51,2 

110 

64,26 

0,996 

1,275 

31,1 

55 

36,29 

0,462 

1,555 

51,5 

111 

64,67 

1,006 

182 


Chemicals  and  Tables. 


.•_ 

= 

100  parts  by 

1    lilrr 

"1 

= 

100  parti  by 

1  litre 

Spctific 
;      Gravity 
1          &9*  F 

5 

•3 

1 

weight 
chemically 

contains  of 
chemically 

Specific 

Gravity 

59  •  F 

i2 

weiifht 
CODUin  of 
chemically 

contains  of 
chemically  i 

at         -  - 

5 

8 

1 

pure  aciJ 

pure  acid 

at 

J 

M 

pure  acid 

pure  arid    ' 

3ii°  F 
'    (Vat-uum) 

u 
^ 

39»F 
(Vacuum) 

1 

Per  Cent 

kB 

Per  Cent 

kg 

Q 

H.SO, 

H.SO. 

Q 

U.SO. 

HtSO. 

1,560 

51,8 

112 

65,08 

1,015 

1,750 

61.8 

150 

81,56 

1,427    1 

1,5(55 

52,1 

113 

65,49 

1,025 

1     1,755 

62,1 

151 

82,(X) 

1.439       ; 

:     1,570 

52,4 

114 

65,90 

1,035 

:     1,7(H) 

62,3 

152 

82,44 

1,451    , 

1,575 

52,7 

115 

66,30 

1,044 

1,765 

62,5 

153 

82,88 

1,463    1 

1,580 

53,0 

116 

(i6,71 

1,054 

i     1,770 

62,8 

154 

83,32 

1,475 

1,585 

53,3 

117 

67,13 

1,064 

1,775 

63,0 

155 

83,iK) 

1,489 

1,590 

53,6 

118 

67,59 

1,075 

1,780 

63,2 

156 

84,50 

1,504 

1,595 

53,9 

119 

68,05 

1,085 

1,785 

63,5 

157 

85,10 

1,519    1 

1,60() 

54,1 

120 

68,51 

1,096 

1,790 

63,7 

158 

85.70 

1.534    ; 

1,605 

54,4 

121 

68,97 

1,107     i 

1,795 

64,0 

159 

86,30 

1,549 

l,filO 

54,7 

122 

69,43 

1,118     f 

1,800 

64,2 

160 

86,90 

1,564 

1,615 

55,0 

123 

69,89 

1,128 

1,805 

64.4 

161 

87,60 

1,581 

1,620 

55,2 

124 

70,32 

1,139 

1,810 

64,6 

162 

88.30 

1,598 

1,625 

55,5 

125 

70,74 

1,150 

1,815 

64,8 

163 

89,05 

1.621 

1,6») 

55,8 

126 

71,16 

1,160 

i     1,820 

65,0 

164 

90,05 

1,639 

1,635 

56,0 

127 

71,57 

1,170 

'     1,821 

90,20 

1,643 

'     1,640 

56  3 

128 

71,99 

1,181 

1,822 

65,1 

90,40 

1,(U7 

:      1,645 

56,6 

129 

72,40 

1,192 

i     1,823 

90,(K) 

1,651 

],()50 

56,9 

130 

72,82 

1,202 

1,824 

65,2 

90,80 

1,656 

1  ,t)55 

57,1 

131 

73,23 

1,212 

!     1,825 

165 

91,00 

1,661 

1,660 

57,4 

132 

73,64 

1  222 

1     1,826 

65,3 

91,25 

1,666 

1      1.665 

57,7 

133 

74,07 

1*233 

1,827 

91,50 

1,671 

1,670 

57,9 

134 

74,51 

1,244 

1,828 

65,4 

91,70 

1,676 

1,675 

58,2 

135 

74,97 

1,256 

1,829 

91,90 

1,681 

1,680 

58,4 

136 

75,42 

1,267 

1,830 

166 

92,10 

1,685 

1,685 

58,7 

137 

75,86 

1,278 

1,831 

65,5 

92,30 

1,690 

1,690 

58,9 

138 

76,30 

1,289 

1,832 

92,52 

1,695 

1,695 

59,2 

139 

76,73 

1,301 

1,833 

65,6 

92,75 

1,700 

1,700 

59,5 

140 

77,17 

1,312 

1,834 

93,05 

1,706 

1,705 

59,7 

141 

77,60 

1,323 

1,835 

65,7 

167 

93,43 

1,713 

1,710 

60,0 

142 

78,04 

1,334 

1,836 

93,80 

1,722 

1,715 

()(),2 

143 

78,48 

1,346 

1,837 

94,20 

1,730 

1,720 

60,4 

144 

78,92 

1,357 

1,838 

65,8 

94,()0 

1,739 

1,725 

60,6 

145 

79,36 

1,369 

1,839 

95,00 

1,748 

1,730 

(;(),9 

146 

79,80 

1,381 

1,840 

65,9 

168 

95,60 

1,759 

1,735 

61,1 

147 

80,24 

1,392 

4,8405 

95,95 

1,765 

1,740 

61,4 

148 

80,68 

1,404 

1,8410 

97,00 

1,786 

1,745 

61,6 

149 

81,12 

1,419 

1,8415 

97,70 

1,799 

Sulphurous  Acid. 

Sulphurous  Acid  SO2,  a  gas  of  pungent  smell,  is  produced  when  sulphur  burns  in  air, 
and  is  used  for  bleaching  woollen  goods.  Sulphurous  acid  can  be  obtained  as  a  watery  solution 
for  bleaching  purposes  by  the  reaction  of  hydrochloric  or  sulphuric  acid  upon  sodium  bisul- 
phite. Finally,  sulphurous  acid  has  recently  been  put  upon  the  market  as  a  compressed  liquid 
in  steel  cylinders,  in  which  form  it  is  used  for  bleaching  in  a  vacuum. 

Tannin. 

Tannin  or  Tannic  acid,  CnHio09  +  2HsO,  a  product  obtained  from  various  plants,  is  put 
upon  the  market  in  several  forms,  viz:  as  needles,  pale  yellow  to  brown  powder,  or  as  a 
frothy  extract.  100  parts  cold  water  dissolve  l-"i  parts  tannin,  in  hot  water  it  is  still  more 
soluble.  Tannin  is  employed  in  wool  dyeing  as  addition  to  the  dyebath  in  dyeing  with  Ali- 
zarine Red  upon  alum  mordant,  whereby  the  fastness  to  bleeding  is  enhanced.  It  is  also 
sometimes  used  for  after-treating  acid  colours,  in  order  to  increase  the  fastness  to  washing, 
and,  further,  together  with  tartar  emetic,  for  the  treatment  of  wool  so  as  to  render  the  same 
insensitive  to  the  attraction  of  acid  dyestufls.     (Compare  page  155). 


Chemicals  and  Tables. 


183 


Tartar. 

Tartar  or  Bitartrate  of  Potash,  KC,H,0„,  is  put  upon  the  market  as  crystals,  or  in 
powder  form;  it  does  not  readily  dissolve  in  water:  0,5  parts  tartar  are  dissolved  in  100  parts 
cold  water,  6,9  parts  in  100  parts  hot  water.  It  is  most  extensively  used  as  an  auxiliary  in 
mordantmg  wool  with  chrome,  alumina,  iron  and  copper-salts,  and  serves  as  reducin-  a-ent 
for  these  salts.  For  the  same  purposes  it  is  nowadays  largely  replaced  by  cheaper  ingredie^nts 
such  as  lactic  or  formic  acid  etc.  Tartar  was  formerly  employed,  and  is  still  sometimes  used 
in  dyeing  with  Eosine,  as  a  weak  acid. 

Tartar  Emetic. 

Tartar  Emetic,  KlSbOJC.H^Os  +  '/.H.O,  7  parts  of  which  dissolve  in  100  parts  cold 
water,  and  o3  parts  in  100  parts  hot  water,  is  employed  in  wool  dyeing  for  fixing  tannin  on 
the  wool  fibre  ior  resist  purposes.  In  place  of  tartar  emetic  other  antimony  compounds  may 
also  be  used. 

Tartaric  Acid. 

Tartaric  Acid,  GH^lOHjslCOOH),,  is  put  upon  the  market  as  colourless  crystals,  115  parts 
of  which  are  soluble  in  100  parts  cold  water.  Tartaric  acid  is  used  in  Vigoureux  printincr  for 
fixing  acid  dyestuffs.  " 

Tartar  Substitute. 

see  Sodium  Bisulphate. 

Tournant  Oil. 

Tournant  Oil,  a  cheaper  sort  of  olive  oil,  is  sometimes  used  for  oiling  (lubricating)  yarns, 
more  frequently  in  Vigoureux  printing  as  an  addition  to  the  printing  pastes,  in  order  to  effect 
a  more  thorough  penetration. 

Turkey  Red  Oil. 

Turkey  Red  Oil  is  obtained  by  the  reaction  of  sulphuric  acid  upon  castor  oil,  olive  oil, 
tournant  oil,  and  other  kinds  of  oil,  and  by  subsequent  neutralization  of  the  generated  sulpho 
acids  with  ammonia  or  soda.  It  is  used  in  wool  dyeing  as  addition  to  the  dyestuffs  employed 
in  Vigoureux  printing  in  order  to  effect  a  more  thourough  penetration. 

Urine. 

Urine,  putrid  urea,  is  still  sometimes  used  in  wool  washing  as  addition  to  the  wash 
hquors.  Its  effect  is  based  on  the  presence  of  ammonium  carbonate  generated  by  the  putre- 
faction and  fermentation  of  the  urea  contained  in  it. 

Water. 

Water  is  of  paramount  importance  in  washing,  dyeing,  bleaching  and  finishing,  in  short, 
in  all  operations  employed  in  the  manufacture  of  woollen  goods.  The  success  of  the  whole 
manufacture  often  depends  on  its  purity.  The  purest  water  —  distilled  water  —  may  be  used 
for  all  purposes.  Seeing,  however,  that  it  would  be  too  costly  and  consequently  impracticable 
to  obtain  sufficient  quantities  of  distilled  water,  it  is  necessary  to  adapt  ordinary  water  to  the 
various  purposes  of  the  trade.  Condensed  water,  which  can  easily  be  collected  in  all  dye- 
works,  and  may  be  used  for  dissolving  dyestuffs,  and  other  purposes  of  a  more  delicate  nature 
IS  very  suitable  for  all  purposes.  Rain  water  is  equally  good  if  not  charged  with  mechanical 
impurities,  or  when  these  have  been  removed  by  filtration. 

Other  kinds  of  water,  especially  river  or  well  water,  have  in  many  cases  to  be 
specially  purified.     Owing  to  the  fact  that  these  waters,  in  trickling  through  the  ground,  have 


184 


Chemicals  and  Tables. 


come  into  contact  with  the  earth  and  the  minerals  ot  which  it  is  composed,  they  contain  more 
or  less  large  quantities  of  mineral  substances  in  solution,  which  are  mostly  composed  of  car- 
bonates, sulphates,  chlorides,  silicates,  nitrates  of  calcium,  magnesium,  potassium,  sodium, 
aluminium  and  iron.  Of  these  the  carbonates  and  sulphates  of  calcium  and  magnesium  are 
the  impurities  met  with  most  frequently  and  in  the  largest  quantities,  and  their  presence,  more 
than  that  of  all  others,  imparts  to  the  water  a  larger  or  smaller  degree  of  hardness,  i.  e.  the 
property  to  disintegrate  soaps  added  to  the  water;  or  to  form  boiler  incrustations,  contrarj- 
to  soft  water  which  does  not  react  in  the  same  manner  or  only  to  a  very  slight  degree. 

Of  the  last  named  salts  the  sulphates  are  pretty  easily  soluble  and  do  not  change 
themselves  nor  the  property  of  the  water  in  boiling.  The  degree  of  hardness  produced  bj* 
them  is  therefore  called  permanent  hardness.  Carbonates,  which  dissolve  only  with  the 
utmost  difficulty  in  water,  become  comparatively  easily  soluble  if  the  water  contains  carbonic 
acid  as  bicarbonates.  If  the  free  carbonic  acid  is  driven  oflf  by  boiling  the  water,  the  insoluble 
carbonates  are  precipitated  and  can  be  removed  by  filtration  and  thus  be  made  ineflective. 
The  degree  of  hardness  produced  by  the  presence  of  Carbonates  in  solution  is  called 
temporary  hardness.  The  sum  total  of  permanent  and  temporary  hardness  is  called  the  total 
degree  of  hardness.  According  to  the  quantitj-  of  salts  in  solution  in  the  water,  the  degree 
of  hardness  is  determined  by  the  gradual  addition  of  normal  soap  solution,  until  vigopous 
shaking  causes  the  soap  lather  to  stand.  Water  is  therefore  treated  for  its  degree  of  hardness 
in  the  following  manner: 

Total  Degree  of  Hardness.  100  cc  water  are  filled  into  a  glass-stoppered  cylinder 
of  about  200  cc  capacity.  To  this,  some  normal  soap  solution  is  gradually  added  until  the 
lather  formed  when  shaking  the  cylinder  remains  standing  above  the  liquid  for  i)  minutes. 
If  the  water  shows  more  than  12°  hardness,  10  cc  of  the  liquid  are  diluted  with  100  cc  distilled 
water,  and  then  tested  as  described  above.  The  consumed  number  of  cc  soap  solution  indi- 
cates, according  to  the  table  below,  the  total  degree  of  hardness  of  the  water. 

Permanent  Hardness.  500  cc  of  the  sample  to  be  tested  are  boiled  for  15  minutes. 
If  any  salts  are  precipitated  in  boiling,  they  are  filtered,  and  the  solution  filled  up  again  to 
500  cc  with  distilled  water.  Of  this  liquid  100  cc  are  poured  into  a  glass-stoppered  cylinder, 
and  the  test  then  carried  out  as  for  the  total  degree  of  hardness. 

The  temporary  hardness  is  found  by  the  difference  between  the  total  and  perinanent 
degrees  of  hardness. 

Table  for  determining  the  Hardness  of  Water. 


1 

German 

German 

German 

i 

German 

1        cc  Soap 

degrees  of 

cc  So.ip 

degrees  of 

1        cc  Soap 

degrees  of 

'        cc  Soap 

degrees  of 

1 

Hardness 

1 

Hardness 

Hardness 

1 

Hardness 

!       M 

0.5 

15,9 

3,7 

26,2 

6,5 

37,4 

9,7 

4,2 

0,7 

16,6 

3,9 

26,9 

6,7 

38,1 

9,9 

5,0 

0,9 

17,0 

4,0 

27,6 

6.9 

38,4 

10,0 

5,4 

1,0 

1        17,4 

4,1 

28,0 

7,0 

38,7 

10,1 

5,8 

1,1 

17,8 

4,2 

28,4 

7,1 

39,4 

10,3 

6,6 

1,3 

!        18,1 

4.3 

29,1 

7,3 

40,1 

10,5 

7,4 

1,5 

18,5 

4,4 

29,8 

7,5 

40,8 

10,7 

8,2 

'  1,7 

18,9 

4,5 

30,0 

7,7 

41,5 

10,9 

9,0 

1,9 

19,7 

4,7 

!        31,1 

7,9 

41,8 

11,0 

9,4 

2,0 

20,4 

4,9 

1        31,3 

8,0 

41,9 

11.1 

9,8 

2,1 

20,8 

5,0       ! 

!        31,5 

8,1 

42,4 

11,2 

10,5 

2,3 

21,2 

5,1        j 

32,7 

8,3 

42.8 

11,3 

1       11,3 

2,5 

21,9 

5,3 

33.9 

8,5 

43,1 

11,4 

12,1 

2,7 

22,6 

5,5 

1        34,0 

8,8 

43,4 

11,5 

12.8 

2.9 

23,3 

5,7 

1        34,7 

8,9 

43,7 

11,6 

13,2 

3,0 

24,0 

5,9 

35,0 

9,0 

44,0 

11,7 

13,6 

3,1 

24,4 

6,0 

35,3 

9,1 

44,4 

11,8 

14,3 

3,3 

24,8 

6,1 

36,0 

9,3 

'       44,7 

11,9 

15,1 

3,5 

25,5 

6,3 

'         36,7 

9,5 

46,0 

12,0 

Chemicals  and  Tables 


185 


German  degrees  of  hardness  indicate  milligrammes  of  lime,  CaO,  (or  the  equivalent  of 
magnesia  etc.)  in  100  grammes  water,  so  that,  e.  g.  water  of  6°  hardness  contains  6  grammes  CaO 
in  100  liters  water.  French  degrees  of  hardness  refer  to  milligrammes  of  calcium  carbonate,  CaCOa 
in  100  grammes  water.    English  degrees  of  hardness  indicate  grains  of  CaCOa  in  1  gallon  water. 


Comp 

arative 

Table  of  German,  E 

nglish  and  Franc 

h  Degrees  of  Har 

dness. 

German 

English 

French 

German 

English 

French 

German 

English 

French 

0,5 

0,62 

0,9 

.3,92 

4,9 

7,0 

8,5 

10,63 

16,18 

0,56 

0,7 

1,0 

4,0 

5,0 

7,17 

8,8 

11,0 

15,75 

0,7 

0,87 

1,26 

4,48 

5,60 

8,00 

8,96 

11,20 

16,00 

0,8 

1,0 

1,43 

4,5 

5,63 

8,06 

9,0 

11,25 

16,08 

1,0 

1,25 

1,79 

4,8 

6,00 

8,60 

9,5 

11,88 

17,0 

1,12 

1,41 

2,0 

6,0 

6,25 

8,95 

10,0 

12,50 

17,9 

1       1,5 

1,88 

2,69 

5,04 

6,30 

9,00 

10,08 

12,6 

18,0 

1,68 

2,10 

3,0 

5,5 

6,88 

9,«5 

10,4 

13,0 

18,6 

2,0 

2,5 

3,58 

5,6 

7,00 

10,00 

10.5 

13,13 

18,78 

2,24 

2,8 

4,0 

6,0 

7,5 

10,74 

10,64 

13  3 

19,0 

2,4 

3,0 

4,3 

6,5 

8,13 

11,64 

11,0 

13,75 

19,68 

2,1 

3,13 

4,48 

6,7 

8,38 

12,U0 

11,2 

14,00 

20,0 

2,8 

3,5 

5,0 

7,0 

8,75 

12,55 

11,5 

14,38 

20,69 

3,0 

3,75 

5,37 

7,28 

9,10 

13,43 

11,76 

14,07 

21,0 

3,2 

4,0 

5,73 

7,84 

9,8 

14,00 

12,0 

16,0 

21,5 

3,36 

4,2 

6,0 

8,0 

10,0 

14,80 

1 

3,5 

4,38 

6,27 

8,4 

10,5 

15,0 

The  hardness  of  water  —  apart  from  causing  boiler  incrustation  which  involves  not  only 
a  quicker  wearing  out  of  the  boiler,  but  also  an  increased  consumption  of  fuel  (an  incrustation 
of  3  mm  in  thickness  requires  10%  more  fuel),  —  becomes  also  in  other  wa3'S  disagreeably 
apparent  in  dyeing.  Hard  water  necessitates  a  considerably  increased  consumption  of  soap 
in  washing  wool  and  wool  goods  (e.  g.  for  1000  liters  water  of  5°,  about  1  ko.  soap  is  con- 
verted into  lime  soap  and  therefore  lost)  moreover,  the  lime  soaps  formed  by  the  reaction  of 
the  lime-  and  other  salts  upon  the  soap,  are  deposited  in  washing  etc.  as  viscous,  greasy,  not 
easily  removable  substances,  on  the  goods,  imparting  to  them  an  unpleasant  handle  and  causing 
the  colours  to  be  fixed  loosely  in  dyeing.  Lastly,  a  considerable  loss  is  caused  in  the  dyebath 
if  these  salts  contained  in  the  water  precipitate  mordants  and  dyestuffs,  especially  mordant 
dyestuffs  in  the  form  of  lime  lakes. 

Besides  the  above  discussed  calcium  and  magnesia  salts,  dissolved  iron  salts  often 
exercise  an  injurious  influence  in  dyeing,  by  dulling  the  shade  of  many  dyestuffs;  finally 
mechanical  impurities  also  obviously  interfere  with  the  success  of  dyeing  and  finishing. 

For  these  reasons  it  becomes  necessary  to  procure  pure  and  soft  water  for  washing, 
dyeing,  rinsing  and  finishing  of  all  kinds  of  wool  goods.  Accordiiig  to  its  employment  water 
can  be  purified  in  different  ways,  and  special  apparatus,  constructed  on  different  principles 
have  been  devised  to  meet  these  requirements.  Installations  for  purifying  the  water,  though 
apparently  expensive,  will  mostly  pay  for  themselves  in  a  short  time,  and  cannot  be  too  urgently 
recommended.  It  would  exceed  the  scope  of  this  work  to  enter  into  details  regarding  the 
various  apparatus  and  methods  for  the  purification  of  water. 

We  therefore  confine  ourselves  to  the  remark  that  for  purifying  the  water  intended  for 
feeding  boilers,  soda  lye  and  lime  are  generally  used.  For  washing  purposes  water  is  satis- 
factorily purified  by  an  addition  of  soda  and  by  boiling,  allowing  it  to  settle  afterwards,  and 
then  using  the  clear  solution.  In  most  cases  a  weak  alkaline  reaction  of  the  water,  so  purified, 
does  no  harm,  but  can  easily  be  neutralized  by  adding  some  acetic  acid  until  a  neutral  reaction 
sets  in.  Water  used  for  dyeing  and  mordanting  should  be  as  soft  as  possible,  especially  for 
mordant  and  lake -forming  dyestuffs.  It  can  be  purified  with  soda  in  the  same  manner  as 
that  to  be  used  for  washing,  and  is  neutralized  until  a  weak  acid  reaction  sets  in.  In  some 
cases,  e.  g.,  in  dyeing  with  Alizarine  Red  on  alumina  mordant,  the  presence  of  lime  in  water 
is  an  advantage.     Water  containing  iron  must  on  no  account  be  used  in  dyeing  and  in  washing 

12ale 


186  Chemicals  and  Tables. 


delicate  shades.  For  rinsing,  water  sliould  be  as  free  as  possible  from  calcium  and  iron  salts, 
but  must  have  no  alkaline  reaction,  as,  e.  g.,  goods  rinsed  with  such  water  are  very  liable  to 
lose  in  strength  by  wet  steaming. 

Waterglass. 

see  Sodium  Silicate. 

Woad. 

Woad,  derived  from  the  woad  plant,  is  put  upon  the  market  either  in  leaves  or  lumps, 
in  which  latter  form  particularly  it  is  still  used  for  setting  and  working  the  fermentation  vats; 
this  is  not  done,  however,  on  account  of  the  indigo  it  contains,  but  principally  to  feed  the  vat 
with  bacteria  which  cause  the  fermentation,  and  which  are  present  in  woad  in  the  form  of 
perennial  spores.  It  is  therefore  advisable  to  add  woad  to  fresh  fermentation  vats  which  are 
to  be  set  with  artificial  indigo,  unless  old  fermentation  vat  liquors  are  available,  which  accel- 
erate the  fermentation. 

Zinc  Dust. 

Zinc  Dust,  a  mixture  of  finely  divided  zinc  and  some  oxide  of  zinc,  is  put  upon  the 
market  as  a  fine  grey  powder  and  serves  as  a  reducing  agent  for  preparing  hydrosulphitt 
from  sodium  bisulphite. 


--a®c— 


Table  of  the  Tension  of  Steam  at  Temperatures  from  lO-t"  F. 
(40 »  C.)  Upwards. 


Temperature 

Tension  in  mm 

in  Atmo- 
spheres 

Pressure  on 
ID  cm  in  Kos 

Temperatm-e 

Tension  in  mm 

in  Atmo- 
spheres 

Pressure  on 
ID  cm  in  Kos 

+  40° 

54,906 

0,072 

0,07465 

+  105" 

906,41 

1,193 

1,23236 

45 

71,391 

0,094 

0,09706 

110 

1075,37 

1,415 

1,46219      ! 

50 

91,982 

0,121 

0,12505 

115 

1269,41 

1,673 

1,72592 

55 

117,478 

0,154 

0,15972 

120 

1491,28 

1,962 

2,02755 

60 

148,791 

0,196 

0,20323 

125 

1743,88 

2,294 

2,37098 

65 

186,945 

0,246 

0,25417 

130 

2030,28 

2,671 

2,76037 

70 

233,093 

0,306 

0,31692 

135 

2353,73 

3,097 

3,20013 

75 

288,517 

0,380 

0,39227 

140 

2717,63 

3,575 

3,69400 

80 

364,643 

0,466 

0,48217 

145 

3125,55 

4,112 

4,24050 

85 

438,041 

0,570 

0,58877 

150 

3581,23 

4,712 

4,86904 

90 

525,450 

0,691 

0,71440 

155  . 

4088,56 

5,380 

5,55881 

95 

633,778 

0,834 

0,86168 

160 

4651,62 

6,120 

6,32434 

100 

760,000 

1,000 

1,03330 

Measures  and  Weights. 

A.' The  Metrical  System. 

1  metre  (m)  =  10  decimetres  (dm)  =  100  centrimetres  (cm)  =  1000  millimetres  (mm). 

1  litre  (1)  =  1000  cubic  centimetres  (ccm). 

1  ton  (t)  =  1000  kilogrammes  (kg). 

1  kilogram  (kg)  =  1000  grammes  (g). 


B.  English  Measures  and  Weights. 

1  yard  =  3  feet=  0,9144  m. 

1  foot  =  12  inches. 

1  inch  =  2,540  cm. 

1  gallon  =  4  quarts  =  8  pints  =  32  gills  =  4,5436  litres. 

1  pound  (lb)  =  16  ounces  (oz)  =  453,59  g. 

1  ton  =  20  hundredweight  (cwt)  =  2240  lbs.  =  1016  kg. 


188 


Conversions. 


Table 

showing  Percentage  of  colour  and  corresponding  quantity 

in  grammes  per  100  kilo  goods,  and  lbs  oz  and  grains  per  100  lbs  goods. 

1  lb  =  16  oz  =  7000  grains  =  454  grammes;    1  oz  =  437'/t  grains;   1  gramme  =  15,43  grains. 

0,001  =  '/iooo°o,  0,01  =  'Aoo'o;  0,10  =  '/io%. 


per  100  kao 

per  100  lbs 

"~' 

per  100  kilo 

per  100  lbs 

per  100  kilo 

per  100  n>( 

•;. 

grammes 

lb  oz 

grains 

•/. 

grammes 

lb  oz 

grains 

'       •;. 

grammes 

lb  oz  grains    ; 

0,001 

1 

7 

0,29 

290 

4 

280 

0,66 

660 

10   245 

0,002 

2 

14 

'    0,30 

300 

4 

350 

0,67 

670 

10    316 

0,003 

3 

21 

'    0,31 

310 

4 

420 

0,68 

6«0 

10    385 

0,004 

4 

28 

1    0,32 

320 

5 

53 

0,69 

690 

11      18 

0,005 

^> 

36 

i    0,33 

330 

5 

12.1 

0,70 

700 

11      88 

0,006 

6 

42 

,    0,34 

340 

5 

193 

0,71 

710 

11    158 

0,007 

7 

49 

0,35 

360 

5 

263 

0,72 

•   720 

11    228 

0,008 

8 

56 

'    0,36 

360 

5 

333 

,     0,73 

730 

11    298 

0,009 

9 

63 

0,37 

370 

5 

403 

0,74 

740 

11    368 

0,01 

10 

70 

0,38 

380 

6 

35 

1     0,75 

750 

12    — 

0.02 

20 

140 

\    0,39 

390 

6 

105 

0,76 

760 

12     70 

0,03 

30 

210 

i     0,40 

400 

6 

175 

0,77 

770 

12    140 

0,04 

40 

280    • 

0,41 

410 

6 

245 

0.78 

780 

12    210 

0.05 

50 

360 

0.42 

420 

6 

315 

1     0,79 

790 

12    280 

0,06 

60 

420 

0,43 

430 

6 

385 

1    0,80 

800 

12    350 

0,07 

70 

63 

0,44 

440 

18 

0.81 

810 

12    420 

0,08 

80 

123 

0,45 

450 

88 

0,82 

820 

13      53 

0,09 

90 

193 

0,46 

460 

158 

0,83 

830 

13    123 

0,10 

100 

263 

0,47 

470 

228 

0,84 

840 

13    193 

0,11 

110 

333 

,    0,48 

480 

298 

0,85 

860 

13   263 

0,12 

120 

403 

0,49 

490 

363 

0,86 

860 

13   333 

0,13 

130 

2 

35 

0,50 

500 

8 

— 

0,87 

870 

13   403 

0.14 

140 

i 

106 

1    0,51 

510 

8 

70 

0.88 

880 

14      35 

0,15 

150 

2 

176 

1    0,62 

520 

8 

140 

0,89 

890 

14    105 

0,16 

160 

2 

246 

1    0,58 

530 

8 

210 

0,90 

900 

14    175    1 

0,17 

170 

2 

316 

!    0,54 

540 

8 

280 

0,91 

910 

14    215 

0,18 

180 

2 

386 

0,65 

sec 

8 

360 

0,92 

920 

14   315 

0,19 

190 

3 

18 

0,56 

560 

8 

420 

0,93 

930 

14   385 

0,20 

200 

3 

88 

0,57 

570 

9 

53 

0,94 

940 

15      18 

0,21 

210 

3 

158 

0,58 

580 

9 

123 

0,95 

950 

15     88 

0,22 

220 

3 

229 

0,59 

590 

9 

193 

0,96 

960 

15    158 

0,23 

230 

3 

299 

0,60 

600 

9 

263 

0,97 

970 

15   228 

0,24 

240 

3 

369 

0,61 

610 

9 

333 

0,98 

980 

15    298   ! 

0,25 

250 

4 

— 

0,62 

620 

9 

403 

i    0,99 

990 

15    368 

0,26 

260 

4 

70 

0,63 

630 

10 

35 

I     1 

1  kilo 

1 

0,27 

270 

4 

140 

0,64 

640 

10 

105 

! 

0,28 

280 

4 

210 

0,65 

650 

10 

175 

Conversion  of  Kilogrammes  into  lbs  English. 


Kilo- 

Approximate 

Kilo- 

Approikiiuatc 

cwis 

qrs 

lbs 

OZ 

conversion 

grammes 

cwts 

qrs 

lbs 

ot 

conversion 

•nto 

into  lbs 

1         into 

into  lbs 

1 

0 

0 

2 

3V. 

2V6 

40 

0 

8 

4 

3 

88 

1         2 

0 

0 

4 

6>/. 

4V5 

60 

0 

3 

26 

3V4 

110>/4 

3 

0 

0 

6 

9»^ 

6»,8 

60 

0 

20 

4'/, 

132 

4 

0 

0 

8 

13 

8'/.. 

70 

1 

14 

6V4 

154 

5 

0 

0 

11 

OV'4 

11 

80 

2 

8 

6 

176 

6 

0 

0 

13 

3'/f 

13V5         I 

90 

3 

2 

6'/. 

198 

7 

0 

0 

15 

7 

15V« 

100 

3 

24 

7 

220'/, 

8 

0 

0 

17 

10'* 

17'/8 

,      200 

3 

3 

20 

15 

441 

9 

0 

0 

19 

13'/, 

19Vb 

300 

5 

3 

17 

6 

661'/, 

10 

0 

0 

22 

0>/4 

22V. 

400 

7 

3 

13 

14 

882 

20 

0 

1 

16 

IV. 

44'/.       ' 

500 

9 

3 

10 

5 

1102'/, 

30 

0 

2 

10 

2';. 

66>/8 

! 

: 

Conversions. 

189 

Conversion  of  grammes  into  oz  and  grains. 

1  grms  =  15,43285  gis 

51  grms 

=  787,04  grs 

=  1  02 

350  grs 

2 

„  ^  30,86470  „ 

52   „ 

=  802,48  „ 

=  1  ., 

365  „ 

3 

„  =  46,29705  „ 

53   „ 

=  817,91  „ 

=  1  „ 

380  „ 

4 

„  =  61,72940  „ 

54   „ 

=  833,34  „ 

=  1  „ 

395  „ 

5 

„  =  77,16175  „ 

55   „ 

=  848,77  „ 

=  1  „ 

411  „ 

6 

„  =  92,59410  „ 

56   „ 

=  864,21  „ 

=  1  ,. 

427  „ 

7 

„  =  108,02645  „ 

57   „ 

=  879,64  „ 

=  2  „ 

005  „ 

8 

„  =  123,45880  „ 

58   „ 

=  895,07  „ 

=  2  „ 

020  „ 

9 

„  =  138,89115  „ 

59   „ 

=  910,50  „ 

=  2  „ 

036  „ 

10 

„  =  154,32350  „ 

60  „ 

=  925,94  „ 

—  2 

051  „ 

11 

„  =  169,75685  „ 

61   „ 

=  941,37  „ 

=  2  „' 

066  „ 

12 

„  =  185,18820  „ 

62   „ 

^  956,80  „ 

=  2  „ 

082  „ 

13 

„  =200,62056  „ 

63  „ 

=  972,23  „ 

=  2  „ 

097  „ 

14 

„  =216,05290  „ 

64  „ 

=  987,67  „ 

=  2  „ 

113  „ 

15 

„  =  231,48525  „ 

65  „ 

=  1003,10  „ 

^  2  „ 

128  „ 

16 

„  =246,91760  „ 

66  „ 

=  1018,53  „ 

=  2  „ 

144  „ 

17 

„  =262,34995  „ 

67   „ 

=  1033,96  „ 

=  2  ^ 

159  „ 

IS 

„  =277,78230  „ 

68  „ 

=  1049,89  „ 

=  2  , 

174  „ 

ly 

„  =  293,21465  „ 

69  „ 

=  1064,83  „ 

=  2  „ 

190  „ 

20 

„  =  308,64700  „ 

70  „ 

=  1080,26  „ 

=  2  „ 

205  „ 

21 

„  =  324,07935  „ 

71   „ 

=  1095,69  „ 

=  2  „ 

220  „ 

22 

„  =339,51170  „ 

72   „ 

=  1111,12  „ 

=  2  „ 

236  „ 

23 

„  =354,94405  „ 

73   „ 

=  1126,56  „ 

=  2  „ 

252  „ 

24 

„  =  370,37040  „ 

74  „ 

=  1141,99  „ 

=  2  „ 

267  „ 

25 

„  =385,80875  „ 

75  „ 

=  1157,42  „ 

=  2  „ 

282  „ 

26 

„  =401,24110  „ 

76  „ 

=  1172,85  „ 

=  2  „ 

298  „ 

27 

„  =  416,67345  „ 

77  „ 

=  1188,29  „ 

=  2  „ 

313  „ 

28 

„  =432,10580  „ 

78  „ 

=  1203,72  „ 

=  2 

329  „ 

2S^^I 

00  grms  :=  437'/2  grms  ^  1  oz 

79   „ 

=  1219,15  „ 

=  2  „ 

344  „ 

■29  g 

ms  =  447,53  grs  =  ] 

oz  10  grs 

80  „ 

=  1234,58  „ 

=  2  , 

360  „ 

30 

„  =  462,97  „  =  1 

„  25  „ 

81   „ 

=  1250,02  „ 

=  2  , 

375  „ 

31 

„  =  478,40  „  =  1 

,.  41  „ 

82   „ 

=  1265,45  „ 

=  2 

390  „ 

32 

„  =  498,83  „  =  ] 

,.  56  „ 

83  „ 

=  1280,X8  „ 

=  2  , 

406  „ 

38 

„  =  509,26  „  =  ] 

.,  72  „ 

84  „ 

=  1290,31  „ 

=  2 

421  „ 

34 

„  =  524,69  „  =  ] 

„     87  „ 

85  „ 

=  1311,74  „ 

=  2  ', 

487  „ 

35 

„  =540,13  „  = 

„  102  „ 

86   „ 

=  1327,18  „ 

=  3  , 

015  „ 

36 

„  =  555,56  „  = 

„  118  „ 

87   „ 

=  1342,01  „ 

=  3  , 

030  „ 

37 

„  =570,99  „  = 

„  133  „ 

88  „ 

=  1368,04  „ 

=  3  , 

045  „ 

38 

„  =586,42  „  = 

,.  149  „ 

89  „ 

=  1373,47  „ 

=  3  , 

061  „ 

39 

„  =  601,86  „  =  ] 

»  164  „ 

90  „ 

=  1388,91  „ 

=  3  , 

076  „ 

40 

„  =617,29  „  = 

„  180  „ 

91   „ 

=  1404,34  „ 

=  3  , 

092  „ 

41 

„  =632,72  „  = 

„  195  „ 

92  „ 

=  1419,77  „ 

=  3  , 

107  „ 

42 

„  =648,15  „  = 

I  „  210  „ 

93  „ 

=  1435,20  „ 

=  3  , 

123  „ 

43 

„  =663,59  „  = 

L  „  226  „ 

94  „ 

=  1450,64  „ 

=  3  , 

138  „ 

44 

„  =679,02  „  =] 

„   241  „ 

95   „ 

=  1466,07  „ 

=  3  , 

154  „ 

45 

„  =  694,45  „  = 

I  „  257  „ 

96   „ 

=  1481,50  „ 

=  3  , 

169  „ 

46 

„  =  709,88  „  = 

I  „  272  „ 

97   „ 

=  1496,93  „ 

=  3  , 

184  „ 

47 

„  =  725,32  „  = 

„  288  „ 

98  „ 

=  1512,37  „ 

=  3  , 

200  „ 

48 

„  =  740,75  „  = 

I  „  303  „ 

99   „ 

=  1527,80  „ 

=  3  , 

215  „ 

49 

„  =  766,18  „  = 

I  „  319  „ 

100  „ 

=-  1548,23  „ 

=  3  , 

230  „ 

50 

„  =  771,61  „  = 

1  „  334  „ 

190 


Conversions. 


Conversion  of  lbs  into  Kilogrammes. 


1  lbs  ]•> 

gl-  = 

0,454  Ko, 

21  lbs 

Engl 

9,526  Ko. 

41  lbs 

Engl 

18,598  Ko. 

2 

0,907 

„ 

''i2    „ 

,, 

= 

9,979    „ 

42 

„ 

„ 

= 

19,051     , 

3    I 

= 

1.361 

„ 

23    , 

,, 

= 

10,43.3     „ 

43 

„ 

„ 

= 

19,505    , 

4    „ 

,      = 

1,814 

y 

24    „ 

„ 

= 

10,886     „ 

44 

„ 

, 

= 

19,958    „ 

5    „ 

= 

2,26s 

25    „ 

^ 

= 

11,340     „ 

45 

„ 

II 

= 

20,412    „ 

6    „ 

= 

2,722 

26    „ 

= 

11,794     „ 

46 

1, 

= 

20,866     „ 

7 

= 

3,175 

^ 

27    . 

„ 

= 

12,247     „ 

47 

II 

1, 

= 

21,319     , 

«    I 

^      = 

3,629 

jj 

28    , 

„ 

= 

12,701     „ 

48 

„ 

„ 

= 

21.773     „ 

9    „ 

1      = 

4,082 

„ 

29    „ 

„ 

= 

13,154     „ 

49 

„ 

„ 

= 

22,226     „ 

10    „ 

,      = 

4.536 

„ 

30    „ 

„ 

= 

13.6P8     „ 

50 

^ 

„ 

= 

22,680     , 

11    „ 

= 

4,990 

31    „ 

= 

14,062     „ 

60 

II 

„ 

= 

27,216     , 

12    „ 

= 

.5,448 

^, 

32    „ 

^ 

= 

14,515     „ 

70 

II 

,1 

= 

31,752     „ 

13    „ 

— 

-5,897 

33    „ 

= 

14,969     „ 

80 

II 

= 

36,288     „ 

14    . 

1      = 

6,350 

^ 

34    „ 

„ 

= 

15,422     „ 

90 

y 

„ 

= 

40,824     , 

15    „ 

= 

fi,80l 

^^ 

35    „ 

^ 

= 

15,876     „ 

100 

„ 

„ 

= 

45,:^60     „ 

16    „ 

= 

7,2.58 

,, 

36    „ 

,^ 

- 

16,3:i0     „ 

21  lO 

„ 

,1 

= 

90,720     „ 

1"    .. 

= 

7,711 

,, 

37    „ 

J, 

= 

16,78  5     „ 

300 

,1 

II 

= 

136,080     „ 

1'^    „ 

= 

8,165 

,1 

38    „ 

^ 

= 

17,237     „ 

400 

II 

^ 

= 

1-1,440     „ 

la    „ 

= 

8.618 

,, 

39    „ 

,j 

= 

17,690     „ 

5(11) 

= 

226,800     , 

20    „ 

',       = 

9,07-2 

„ 

40    „ 

» 

= 

18,144     „ 

Conversion  of  grains,  oz,  lbs,  qrs,  cwts,  into  Kilogrammes. 

7,716175  grains  =    0,5  grammes 
15,4323.50       „       =    1,0  „ 

154,323500       „       =  10,0 
437'/«  grains  =  1  oz    =  28,3  grammes 
16      oz         =1  lbs   =  463,59       „ 
28      lbs        =  1  qrs  =  12  kilos  712  grammes 
4      qrs       =  1  cwt  =  1 12  lbs  =  50  kilos  803  grammes 
20      cwts     =  1  ton  =  1016,06  kilos. 


1  oz  =    437'/!  g 

rs  =    28,3502  grammes 

2   „  =    875 

=    56,6991 

3   „  =  l.^r2'/2    , 

=    85,0486 

4   „  =  1750 

=  113,3981 

5   „  =  2187'/s    , 

=  141,7482 

1 

6   „  =  2625 

=  170,0972 

1 

7   „  =  3062 '/j 

=  198,4466 

8   „  =  3500 

=  226,7962 

1 

9   „  =3937'/s 

=  255,1457 

10   „  =  4375 

=  283,49,52 

II 

11    „  =  4812'/j 

=  311,8448 

12   „  =  5250 

,    =340,1942 

II 

13   „  =  5687 

,    =368,5438 

14   „  =  6125 

,    =396,8933 

II 

15   „  =  6562 '/» 

,    =  425,2428 

16   „  =  7000 

,    =453,5923 

" 

1  milligramme 

=        0,001  grammes 

1  centigramme 

0,01 

1  decigramme 

0,1 

1  decagramme 

=      10,000 

1  hectogramme 

=    100,000 

1  kilogramme 

=  1000,000 

Conversions. 


191 


Conversion  of  grammes  per  litre  into  ounces  per  gallon. 


|rm. 
?rms, 


Per  litre 

1  = 

2  = 

3  = 

4  = 

5  = 


7  = 

8  = 

9  = 

10  = 

11  = 

12  = 

13  = 

14  = 

15  = 

16  = 

17  = 

18  = 

19  = 

20  = 
30  = 
40  = 
50  = 
60  = 
70  = 
80  = 
90  = 

100  = 

200 

300 

400 

500 


Per  gall. 

4"/2  grms. 

9 

13'/2       „ 
18  „ 

22  V2      „ 
27 

36 

40'/2      „ 

45 

49'/s       „ 

54 

58  V^       „ 

63 

67 '/s       „ 

72 

76'/2       „ 

81 

85'/,      „ 

90 
135 
180 
225 
270 
315 
360 
405 
460 
900 
1350 
1800 
2250 


'/90Z 

V2 

'/« 

■/3 
'/i 

% 

2 

2V6 
2'/3 

2'/2 

2^/3 

2-'^/<. 

3 

3Vo 

3'/3 

5 

6-/3 


:10 

:  11^/3 
:  13'/3 
:  15 

:  16^'3 

--  33  73 
50 

:  66-''/3 
:  83  Vs 


„  =  2  lbs  l'/3  oz. 
=  3    „    2       „ 

„  =  4   „    2V    „ 
.,  =  5   „    3'/3    „ 


Fluid  Measures. 

pints  quarts  gallons  litres 
2     =  1 

8      =  4   =        1  =      4,543 
1  Imp.  gallon  =  8  pints  =  32  gills  =  160  oz  =  4  =  kil.  540  grms. 
1      „     =    4     „     =    20  „  =0=   „  0,67      „ 
In  English  works  2  noggins  =  1  gill  (10  fl.  oz.) 
2  gills        =  1  pint 
In  Scotch  works  4  gills  =  1  pint 
(of  5  fl.  oz.  each)     (20  fl.  oz) 
1  U.  S.  gallon  =  3,785  litres 

1  Imp.         „      =  4,5436  litres  =  4543  cubic  centimetres 
1  „      water  =10  lbs  Engl. 

1000  Imp.  gallons  =  10015  lbs  Engl.  =  4543  kilo 
210  „       water  =  1  ton  =  35,943  cubic  feet 


1 


1  litre  =  100  centilitres 

1  hectolitre  -    10  decalitres 


,,     =  277 '/<  cubic  inch.  =  0,16  cubic  feet  =  10  lbs 

1  Imp.  pipe  =  572,48  litres 

1  U.  S.  pipe  =  476,94     „ 

=  1  cubic  decimetre  =  1,76  Imp.  pint    -  2,114  U.  S. 
=  100  litres. 


pints. 


192 


Conversions. 


Conversion  of  gallons,  pints  and  gills  into  lbs  and  oz. 


1 
100 

gallon    -      10  lbs 
gallons  -  1000   „ 

1 
2 
3 
4 

pint  =    I'li  lbs 
pints  =    2'/j    „ 

„    =    3'/,     ,. 

»    =    5 

5 
6 

7 

„       =      7>/2       „ 

8 

»    =  10 

1  pint      - 
1   quart 

2  pint5 

=  2  gills  = 
4    „      -- 

l'/4lbs 
2"/.    „ 

1  gallon 

4  quarts      8  pints  —  32     „     _ 

10      „ 

Conversion  of  litres  into  gallons  and  pints. 


Litres    Gallons    Pints    Gills 


1 

=: 

1 

3,0430 

2 

= 

3 

2,0864 

3 

= 

5 

1,1296 

4 

= 

7 

0,1728 

5 

— 

S 

3,2160 

6 

— 

1 

2 

2,2592 

7 

= 

1 

4 

1,3024 

8 

zr 

1 

fi 

0,3456 

9 

= 

1           • 

7 

3,3888 

10 

= 

2 

1 

2,4320 

11 

=; 

2 

3 

1,4762 

12 

= 

2 

5 

0,5184 

13 

= 

2 

fi 

3,5616 

14 

= 

3 

0 

2,6048 

Litres    Gallons    Pints    Gills 


15     = 

3 

2 

1,6480 

16     ^ 

3 

4 

0,6912 

17         =7 

3 

5 

3,7344 

18    - 

3 

7 

2,7776 

19       : 

4 

1 

1,S208 

20 

4 

u,sii40 

21 

4 

4 

3,9072 

22     .--. 

4 

6 

2,9604 

23    = 

5 

0 

1,9936 

24    = 

6 

2 

1,0368 

25    = 

5 

4 

0,0800 

50    ^ 

11 

0 

0,1600 

75    ^ 

16 

4 

0,2400 

100    = 

22 

0 

0,:i200 

Conversion  of  Cubic  Centimetres  into  English  Measures. 


1  cubic 

centimetres  = 

17  minims. 

2 

^ 

34 

3 

51 

4 

„ 

08 

or  1  draci 

m     8  mil 

ims 

5 

— 

85 

„    1 

25 

6 

J,                              =; 

102 

,.    I 

42 

7 

J,                              1^ 

119 

„    1 

59 

^ 

8 

J,                              = 

136 

„    2  drach 

ms  16 

, 

9 

)l                               ^ 

153 

2 

33 

, 

10 

)I                              = 

170 

',',    2         ", 

50 

^ 

20 

— 

340 

„    5         „ 

40 

30 

»                              = 

510 

„    1  ounce 

0  drachm 

'30  m 

40 

1)                              = 

680 

.,    1       ., 

3       ,. 

20 

50 

II                              = 

850       , 

M    1       ,. 

6       „ 

10 

60 

II                              — 

1020       , 

2 

1 

0 

70 

— 

1190       , 

."    "^       ',', 

3       „ 

50 

80 

II                              = 

1360       , 

„    2       „ 

6 

40 

90 

»                             ~ 

1530       , 

,,    3      „ 

1 

30 

100 

»l                              = 

1700       , 

,.    3       ., 

4       ., 

20 

1000 

„                             = 

1  litre 

'34  n 

uid  ounces 

nearlj',  0 

r  1'/. 

pint-!. 


Conversions. 


193 


1  Imp.  gallon 

2  Imp.  gallon; 
3 
4 
5 
6 
7 
8 
9 

10 
20 
30 


Conversion  of  gallons  into  litres. 


=  4,5430  litres 

=  9,0872 

=  13,6308 

^  18,1748 

=  22,718 

=  27,2616 

=  31,8052 

=  36,3488 

=  40,8924 

=  45,436 

=  90,872 
=  136,308 


40  Imp.  gallons 

60 

60 

70 

80 

90 
100 
200 
300 
400 
500 
1000 


181 
227 
272, 
318 
363; 
408, 
454, 


:  1363 

1817; 

2271, 
4543,i 


,744  litres 

,180 

,616 

,052 

,488 

924 

,360 

720 

080 

440 

800 

600 


Water  quantities: 


34,65 
69,31 

277  Vi 
2,218 '/s 


cubic  inches 


gallons 


=  v:4 

=    2V2 
=  10 
=  80 
=      0361 
=  62,5 


lbs 


1  pint 

1  quart 

1  gallon 

1  bushel 

1  cubic  inch 

1       „       foot  =:      1,728 

1     „      „         =    6,25' 

1  cylindrical  foot  =      4,893 
1  cubic  yard         =  168,264  \', 

1  ton  of  water     -^    35,76  cubic  feet  =  224  Gallons 
1  bushel  of  water  would  fill  a  box  12"  X  12"  X  15»/r' 
}  peck  „  „  „  8"  X    8"  X    8V 

1  gallon  „  „  „  6"  X    6"  X    73 ,« 

,„        1  q"^""'  >'  „  „  4"  X    4"  X    473" 

Water  occupies  the   least  space  when   at  4"  C.  or  39"  F 


Conversion 
of  Metres  into  Yards 


1  metre  = 
2 


10 

20 

30 

40 

50 

60 

70 

80 

90 

100 

200 

300 

400 

500 


1,0936 
=      2,187 
=      3,281 
=      4,374 
=      5,468 

-  6,562 
=      7,655 

-  8,749 
=  9,843 
=  10,936 
=  21,873 
=  32,809 
=  43,745 
=  54,682 
=  65,618 
=  76,554 
=  87,491 
=  98,427 
=  109,363 
=  218,727 
=  328,090 
=  437,453 
=:  546,816 


Yards 


Conversion 
of  Yards  into  Metres 


1  yard 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 


9 

10 

20 

30 

40 

50 

00 

70 

80 

90 

100 

200 

300 

400 

500 


=   0,91439  Metres 

;   1,8288 

=   2,7472 

=   3,6576 

=   4,5720 

=   6,4864 

=   6,4008 

;   7,3152 

^   8,2296 

=   9,1440 

r  18,2880 

--    27,4320 

=  36,5760 

=  45,7200 

=  54,8640 

:  64,0080 

--    73,1520 

--    82,2960 

:  91,4400 

-  182,8800 

-  274,3200 

-  365,7600 
457,2000 


13Ie 


194 


Decimal  Measul-es. 


Decimal  Measures. 


Metre 

Denominations 

Equivalents  in  the 
standard  of  Canada 

cubic 
metres 

litres 

Imp.  gallons  and 
decimal  parts  of  same 

kilolitre 

1 

'J'" 

/lOUO 
'/lOOOO 
'/lOOOOO 

1000 

100 

10 

1 
'/.o 

220,2  U 
22,0244 

2,2024 
0,-2202 
0,0220 
0,0022 

centilitre  . 

How  to  determine  the  capacity  of  a  square  dye-vessel. 

What  is  tlie  capacity  of  a  square  dye-vessel  if  it  is  for  instance  8x3x3  feet? 
Determine  the  cubic  content  and  then  multiply  bj'  6,26  as  a  cubic  foot  of  water  contains 
6,25  gallons. 

1  gallon    of  water   equals    10  lbs   therefore    1    cubic   foot   of  water  equals  62';s  lbs  or  1000  oz 

and  446,4  gallons  equal  4464  lbs. 

Dimensions  of  the  dye-vessel. 

8  feet  long 

3    „     wide 

3    „      high 

or  8  X  3  X  3  =  72  cubic  feet  X  6,25  gallons  =  446,4  gallons. 


Comparison   of  tlic  Theimoinctcr-Divisions. 


195 


Comparison  of  the  Thermometer-Divisions. 


Celcius 

Reaumur 

Fahrenheit 

Celcius 

Reaumur 

Fahrenheit 

Celcius 

Reaumur 

Fahrenheit 

+  100 

+  80 

+  212 

+  53 

+  42,4 

+  127,4 

+  6 

+  4,8 

+  42,8 

99 

79,2 

210,2 

52 

41,6 

125,6 

5 

4 

42 

98 

78,4 

208,4 

51 

40,8 

123,8 

4 

3,2 

39,2 

97 

77,6 

206,6 

50 

40 

122 

3 

2,4 

87,4 

96 

76,8 

204,8 

49 

89,2 

120,2 

2 

1,6 

35,6 

95 

76 

203 

i         48 

38,4 

118.4 

1 

0,8 

33,8 

94 

75,2 

201,2 

47 

37,6 

116,6 

0 

0 

32 

93 

74,4 

199,4 

46 

36,8 

114,8 

-1 

-0,8 

30,2 

92 

73,6 

197,6 

45 

36 

113 

2 

1,6 

28,4 

91 

72,8 

195,8 

44 

3,52 

111,2 

3 

2,4 

26,6 

90 

72 

194 

43 

34,4 

109,4 

4 

3,2 

24,8 

89 

71,2 

192,2 

42 

38,6 

107,6 

5 

4 

23 

88 

70,4 

190,4 

41 

32,8 

105,8 

6 

4,8 

21,2 

87 

69,6 

188,6 

40 

82 

104 

7 

5,6 

19,4 

86 

68,8 

186,8 

39 

31,2 

102,2 

8 

6,4 

17,6 

85 

68 

185 

38 

80,4 

100,4 

9 

7,2 

15,8 

'         84 

67,2 

183,2 

87 

29,6 

98,6 

10 

8 

14 

83 

66,4 

181,4 

36 

28,8 

96,8 

11 

8,8 

12,2 

[         82 

65,6 

179,6 

35 

28 

95 

12 

9,6 

10,4 

81 

64,8 

177,8 

34 

27,2 

93,2 

18 

10,4 

8,0 

80 

64 

176 

33 

26,4 

91,4 

14 

11,2 

6,8 

79 

63,2 

174,2 

32 

25,6 

89,6 

15 

12 

5 

78 

62,4 

172,4 

31 

24,8 

87,8 

16 

12,8 

3,2 

77 

61,6 

170,6 

30 

24 

86 

17 

13,6 

1,4 

76 

60,8 

168,8 

29 

28,2 

84,2 

18 

14,4 

-    0,4 

75 

60 

167 

28 

22,4 

82,4 

19 

15,2 

2,2 

74 

59,2 

165,2 

27 

21,6 

80,6 

20 

16 

4 

78 

58,4 

163,4 

26 

20,8 

78,8 

21 

16,8 

5,8 

72 

57,6 

161,6 

j         25 

20 

77 

22 

17,6 

7,6 

71 

56,8 

159,8 

24 

19,2 

75,2 

28 

18,4 

9,4 

70 

56 

158 

23 

18,4 

73,4 

24 

19,2 

11,2 

69 

55,2 

156,2 

22 

17,6 

71,6 

25 

20 

13 

68 

54,5 

154,4 

21 

16,8 

69,8 

26 

20,8 

14,8 

67 

53,6 

152,6 

20 

16 

68 

27 

21,6 

16,6 

66 

52,8 

150,8 

19 

15,2 

66,2 

28 

22,4 

18,4 

65 

52 

149 

18 

14,4 

64,4 

29 

23,2 

20,2 

64 

51,2 

147,2 

17 

13,6 

62,6 

30 

24 

22 

63 

50,4 

145,4 

16 

12,8 

60,8 

31 

24,8 

23,8 

62 

49,6 

143,0 

15 

12 

59 

32 

25,6 

25,6 

61 

48,8 

141,8 

14 

11,2 

57,2 

38 

26,4 

27,4 

60 

48 

140 

13 

10,4 

55,4 

34 

27,2 

29,2 

59 

47,2 

138,2 

12 

9,6 

58,6 

35 

28 

31 

58 

46,4 

186,4 

11 

8,8 

51,8 

36 

28,8 

82,8 

57 

45,6 

134,6 

10 

8 

50 

37 

29,6 

34,6 

56 

44,8 

132,8 

9 

7,2 

48,2 

38 

30,4 

36,4 

55 

44 

131 

8 

6,4 

46,4 

39 

31,2 

89,2 

54 

48,2 

129,2 

5,6 

44,6 

40 

82 

40 

Calculation  of: 
"C  in  "R  multiply  by  4,  divide  by  5, 

"C  in  "F        „            „    9,        „  ,.  5,  add  32, 

"R  in  "C        „           „    r,,        „  „  4, 

"R  in  "F         „           „    9,        „  „  4,  add  32, 

°F  in  "R  subtract  32,  nuiltiply  by  4,  divide  by  9, 

°F  in  "C        „         82          „  „  5,         „       „    9. 


— a®c— 


ronipnrison  n!  specific  Giaviiy  with  degrees  Bi-  ami  Tw. 


Comparison  of  specific  Gravity  with  degrees  B6  and  Tw. 


sj».  Gr. 
at  15* 

degrees  B6 

degrees 
Twaddell 

sp.  Gr. 
at  15" 

degrees  Bt 

degree. 
Twaddell 

tp.  Gr. 
at  15* 

degrees  Bt 

degrees 
Twaddell 

1,000 

0 

0 

1,290 

32,4 

58 

1,580 

53,0 

116 

1,005 

0,7 

1 

1,295 

32,8 

59 

j      1,585 

53,3 

117 

1,010 

1,4 

2 

1,300 

33,3 

60 

1,590 

53.6 

118 

1,015 

2,1 

3 

1,305 

33,7 

61 

1,595 

53,9 

119 

1,020 

2,7 

4 

1,310 

34,2 

62 

1.600 

54,1 

120 

1,025 

3,4 

5 

1,315 

34,6 

63 

1,605 

64,4 

121 

1,030 

4,1 

6 

1,320 

35,0 

64 

1,610 

64,7 

122 

1,035 

4,7 

7 

1,325 

35,4 

66 

1,615 

55.0 

123 

1,040 

5,4 

8 

1,330 

35,8 

66 

1,620 

55,2 

124 

1,045 

6,0 

9 

1,335 

36,2 

67 

1,625 

55,5 

125 

1,050 

6,7 

10 

1,340 

36,6 

68 

1,630 

55,8 

126 

1,055 

7,4 

11 

1,345 

37,0 

69 

1,635 

56,0 

127 

1,060 

8,0 

12 

1.350 

37,4 

70 

1,640 

56,3 

128 

1,065 

8,7 

13 

1,355 

37,8 

71 

1,645 

56,6 

129 

1,070 

9,4 

14 

i      1,360 

38,2 

72 

1,650 

56,9 

130 

1,075 

10,0 

15 

1,.365 

38,6 

73 

1,655 

67,1 

131 

1,080 

10,6 

16 

1,370 

39,0 

74 

1,660 

57,4 

132 

1,085 

11,2 

17 

1,375 

39,4 

75 

1,665 

57,7 

133 

1,090 

11,9 

18 

1,380 

39,8 

76       i 

1,670 

57,9 

134 

1,095 

12,4 

19 

1,386 

40,1 

77 

1,675 

58,2 

135 

1,100 

13,0 

20 

1,390 

40,5 

78 

1,680 

58,4 

136 

1,105 

13,6 

21 

1,395 

40,8 

79 

1,685 

58,7 

137 

1,110 

14,2 

22 

1,400 

41,2 

80 

1,690 

58,9 

138 

1,115 

14,9 

23 

1,405 

41,6 

81 

1,695 

59,2 

139 

1,120 

15,4 

24 

1,410 

42,0 

82 

1,700 

59,5 

140 

1,125 

16,0 

25 

1,415 

42,3 

S3 

1,705 

59,7 

141 

1,130 

16,5 

26 

1,420 

42,7 

84 

1,710 

60,0 

142 

1,135 

17,1 

27 

1,425 

43,1 

85 

1,715 

60,2 

143 

1,140 

17,7 

28 

1,430 

43,4 

86 

1.720 

60,4 

144      1 

1,145 

18,3 

29 

1,435 

43,8 

87 

1.725 

60,6 

146 

1,150 

18,8 

30 

1,440 

44,1 

88 

1,730 

60,9 

146 

1,155 

19,3 

31 

1,445 

44,4 

89 

1,735 

61,1 

147 

1,160 

19,8 

32 

1,460 

44,8 

90 

1.740 

61,4 

148 

1,165 

20,3 

33 

1,455 

45,1 

91 

1,745 

61,6 

149 

1,170 

20,9 

34 

1,460 

45,4 

92 

1,750 

61.8 

160 

1,175 

21,4 

35 

1,465 

46,8 

93 

1,765 

62,1 

151 

1.180 

22,0 

36 

1,470 

46,1 

94 

1,760 

62.3 

152 

1,185 

22,5 

37 

1,475 

46,4 

95 

1,765 

62,5 

153 

1,190 

23,0 

38 

1,480 

46,8 

96 

1,770 

62.8 

154 

1,195 

23,5 

39 

1,485 

47,1 

97 

1,775 

63,0 

155 

1,200 

24,0 

40 

1,490 

47,4 

98 

1,780 

63,2 

156 

1,205 

24,5 

41 

1,495 

47,8 

99 

1,785 

63,5 

157 

1,210 

25,0 

42 

1,500 

48,1 

100 

1,790 

63,7 

15S 

1,215 

25,5 

43 

1,505 

48,4 

101 

1,795 

64,0 

159 

1,220 

26,0 

44 

1,510 

48,7 

102 

1,800 

64,2 

160 

1,225 

26,4 

45 

1,515 

49,0 

103 

1,805 

64,4 

161 

1,230 

26,9 

46 

1,520 

49,4 

104 

1,810 

64,6 

162 

1,235 

27,4 

47 

1,525 

49,7 

105 

1,815 

64,8 

163 

1,240 

27,9 

48 

1,530 

50,0 

106 

1,820 

65,0 

164 

1,246 

28,4 

49 

1,635 

50,3 

107 

1,825 

65,2 

165 

1,250 

28,8 

60 

1,540 

60,6 

108 

1,830 

65,5 

16'; 

1,255 

29,3 

51 

1,545 

50,9 

109 

1,835 

65,7 

167 

1,260 

29,7 

52 

1,550 

51,2 

110 

1,840 

65,9 

168 

1,265 

30,2 

53 

1,555 

51,5 

111 

1,845 

66,1 

169 

1,270 

30,6 

54 

1,560 

51,8 

112 

1,850 

66,3 

170 

1,275 

31,1 

55 

1,565 

52,1 

113 

1,855 

66,6 

171 

1,280 

31,5 

56 

1,570 

52,4 

114      ^ 

1,860 

66,7 

172 

1,285 

82,0 

57 

1,675 

52,7 

115      i 

1,865 

67,0 

173 

Index. 


Acetate  of  Ammonia  161. 

Acetate  of  Chrome  161. 

Acetate  of  Lime  162. 

Acetate  of  Soda  162. 

Acetic  Acid  163. 

Acid  Alizarine  Black  92,  94,  130,  131. 

Acid  Alizarine  Blue  88,  130,  131,  140. 

Acid  Alizarine  Blueblack  90,  106,  130,  131. 

Acid  Alizarine  Brown  82,  130,  131. 

Acid  Alizarine  Darkblue  88,  130,  131. 

Acid  Alizarine  Green  90,  130,  131. 

Acid  Alizarine  Grenade  82,  130,  131. 

Acid  Alizarine  Grey  52,  90,  121,  130,  131. 

Acid  Alizarine  Red  82,  130,  131. 

Acid  Alizarine  Violet  86,  130,  131. 

Acid  Alizarine  Yellow  80,  98,  130,  131. 

Acid  Cerise  58,   121. 

Acid  Dyestuffs  113. 

Acid  Green  70,  122. 

Acid  Green  solution  70,  122. 

Acid  Magenta  58,  121. 

Acid  Maroon  58,  121. 

Acid  Rosamine  56,  121. 

Acid  Violet  58,  60,  121. 

After-chroming  process  128. 

Alizarine  Blue  104,  106,  140. 

Alizarine  Brown  102,  135,  140. 

Alizarine  Claret  102,  135,  140. 

Alizarine  Darkblue  104,  140. 

Alizarine  Green  108,  140. 

Alizarine  Orange  98,  131,  132,  135,  140. 

Alizarine  Red    80,    100,    102,    180,    131,    132, 

13.5,  140. 
Alizarine  Yellow   80,    98,    100,    127,    130,    131, 

132,  13.5,  140. 
Alizarine  Direct  Blue  54,  66,   121,  122,  140. 


Alizarine  Direct  Green  54,  121,  140. 

Alizarine  Direct  Violet  66,  122. 

Alkalies,  Fastness  to,  11. 

Alkaline  Blue  64,  113,  123. 

Alkaline  Violet  64,  123. 

Altering  the  Properties  of  Wool  115. 

Alphyl  Blueblack  50,  121. 

Alum  164. 

Alum  Developing  132. 

Aluminium  Chloride  164. 

Aluminium  Sulphate  164. 

Alum  Mordant  134. 

Amaranth  28,  121. 

Amido  Black  48,  121. 

Amidonaphtol  Black  48,  121. 

Amidonaphtol  Red  36,  124. 

Ammonia  165. 

Ammonium  Acetate  161. 

Annnonium  Carbonate  166. 

Ammonium  Chloride  166. 

Ammonium  Oxalate  166. 

Ammonium  Sulphocyanide  166. 

Anthraquinone-dyestufls  113. 

Anthrol  Blue  104,  135,  140. 

Archil  Substitute  3s. 

Auramine  74,  125. 

Aurophenine  16,  121. 

Azo  Acid  Black  44,  46,  121. 

Azo  Acid  Blue  40,  121. 

Azo  Acid  Brown  34,  121. 

Azo  Acid  Carmine  121. 

Azo  Acid  Crimson  36. 

Azo  Acid  Magenta  36,  121. 

Azo  Acid  Red  36,  121. 

Azo  Brown  121. 

Azo  Dyestuffs  113. 

Azo  Flavine  18. 

Azo  Yellow  18,  121. 


198 


Index. 


B. 

Basic  Colours  114,  125. 

Bichromate  of  Potash  166. 

Bichromate  of  Potash  Developing  130. 

Bichromate  of  Soda  166. 

Black  Blue  62. 

Bleu  de  Lyon  62,  122. 

Blue  122. 

Boiler  Incrustation  18.5. 

Borax  167. 

Brilliant  Crimson  28,  121. 

Brilliant  Croceinc  22,  121. 

Brilliant  Dianil  Red  30,  121. 

Brilliant  Green  78,  125. 

Brilliant  Orange  20,  121. 

Brilliant  Rubine  2S. 

British  Gum  167. 

Burnt  Lime   167. 

c. 

Calcium  Hypochlorite  167. 

Carbo-hydrates  168. 

Carbonate  of  Ammonia  167. 

Carbonate  of  Potash  167. 

Carbonate  of  Soda  168. 

Carbon  Black  .50,  121. 

Caustic  Lime  169. 

Caustic  Lime  Test  12. 

Caustic  Soda  169. 

Ceruleine  90,  lOS,  130,  131,  1.3.5,  140. 

China  Blue  62,  121. 

Chinoline  Yellow,  14,  120. 

Chloride  of  Alumina  164. 

Chloride  of  Ammonia  166. 

Chloride  of  Magnesia  173. 

Chloride  of  Tin  169. 

Chlorinating  of  Wool  155. 

Chromaline  169. 

Chrome  Acetate  161. 

Chrome  Alum  169. 

Chrome  Black  91,  130,  132. 

Chrome  Brown  84,  130. 

Chrome  Developing  Dyestufl's  114,  128,  140. 

Chrome  Mordant  136. 

Chromic  Acid  170. 

ChroiTiium  Acetate  170. 

Chromic  Acid  Mordant  138. 

Chromogene  84,  130. 


Chromotrope  38,  86, 
Chromotrope  Blue  86 
Chrysoidine  74,  125. 
Chrysoine,  18,  121. 
Claret  Red  32,  121. 


8,  90,  121,  132. 
130. 


Cloth  Blue  62,  122. 
Cloth  Red  32,  121. 
Cloudiness  in  piece-goods  118. 
Colour  Spots  or  Stains  117,  118. 
Common  Salt  170. 

Comparative  strength  of  Paste  and  correspon- 
ding Powder  Dyestufl's  116. 
Copper  Black  84,  132. 
Copper  Blue  84,  132. 
Copper  Red  ^i,  132. 
Copper  Vitriol  170. 
Cotton  Blue  62,  121. 
Cotton,  dyeing  in  an  acid  bath  4. 
Cotton  Light  Blue  62,  121. 
Cresotine  Yellow  16,  120. 
Cyanine  66,  122. 

D. 

Decrease  of  acid  11 'J. 

Delta  Purpurine  30,  121. 

Determining  of  the  Hardness   of  Water  184. 

Developing  of  Dyestuffs  128. 

Developing  with  Alum  132. 

Developing  with  Bichromate  of  Potash  130. 

Developing  with  Copper  Sulphate  132. 

Developing  with  Fluoride  of  Chrome  131. 

Dianil  Brown  34,  121. 

Dianil  Crimson  30. 

Dianil  Claret  Red  32,  121. 

Dianil  Dyestufl's  113. 

Dianil  Fast  Brown  34,  121. 

Dianil  Fast  Red  30,  80,  121,  130,  131. 

Dianil  Orange  \K  121. 

Dianil  Pure  Yellow  16,  120. 

Dianil  Red  30,  121. 

Dianil  Violet  32,  121. 

Dianil  Yellow  16,  120. 

Dissolving  of  Dyestufl's  115. 

Dry  steaming  7. 

Dyeing  in  an  acetic  acid  bath  113,  124. 

Dyeing  in  an  acid  bath  113,  120. 

Dyeing  in  an  acid  bath  and  developing  with 

metal  salts  114,  127. 
Dyeing  in  an  alkaline  bath  113,  123. 
Dyeing  in  a  neutral  bath  114,  125. 
Dyeing   upon   previously   mordanted  material 

114,  134. 

E. 

Efl'ect  threads,  staining  of  4. 
Entering  goods  into  the  bath  120. 
Eosine  72,  124. 
Epsom  Salt  170. 


199 


Equalizing  of  acid  colours  117,  120. 
Erythrosine  72,  124. 

F. 

Fast  Acid  Blue  54,  121. 

Fast  Acid  Eosine  56,  121. 

Fast  Acid  Green  70,  122. 

Fast  Acid  Magenta  56,  121. 

Fast  Acid  Phloxine  56,  121. 

Fast  Acid  Red  55,  121. 

Fast  Acid  Violet  .54,  56,  121. 

Fast  Blue  52,  121. 

Fast  Blue  soluble  52. 

Fast  Brown  34,  121. 

Fast  Claret  32,  121. 

Fast  Darkblue  44,  52,  121. 

Fast  Mordant  Blue  88,  106,  130,  131. 

Fastness  to  alkalies  11. 

Fastness  to  carbonising  8. 

Fastness  to  light  6. 

Fastness  to  milling  11. 

Fastness  to  perspiration  12. 

Fastness  to  rubbing  5. 

Fastness  to  soda  10. 

Fastness  to  steaming  (decatising)  7. 

Fastness  to  stoving  8. 

Fastness  to  street-dirt  II. 

Fastness  to  washing  10. 

Fastness  to  water  9. 

Fast  Red  28,  121. 

Fast  Yellow  18,  121. 

Fermentation  Vats  144. 

Flavazine  14,  120. 

Flavophosphine  14,  125, 

Fluoride  of  Chrome  170. 

Formaldehyde  170. 

Formiate  of  Chrome  170. 

Formic  Acid  170. 

Full  Blue  62. 

Fullers'  Earth  171. 


Galleine  106,  140. 
Glaubers'  Salt  171. 
Glue  171. 
Glycerine  172. 
Guernsey  Blue  02,  122. 

H. 

Hardness  of  Water  184. 
Hoechst  Vat  148. 
Hydrochloric  Acid  172. 


Hydrogen  Peroxide  175. 
Hydrosulphite  149,  153,  173. 
Hydrosulphite  Vats  147. 

I. 

Imperial  Blue  121. 

Increase  of  Glaubers'  Salt  119. 

Indigo  108,  114,  151. 

Indigo  Paste  152. 

Indigo  Substitute  68,  122. 

Indigo  Vat  152. 

Induline-dj'estuffs  113. 

Insolation  7. 

Insufficient  penetration  118. 


K. 


Knitteriness  117. 


Lactic  acid  136,  173. 

Lactoline  137,  173. 

Lanoglaucine  96. 

Laundry  Blue  122 

Level  dyeing  of  acid  colours  117,  120. 

Lime  Acetate  162. 

Longitudinal  streaks  118. 

M. 

Madder  173. 

Magenta  125. 

Magnesium  Chloride  173. 

Magnesium  Sulphate  174. 

Malachite  Green  78,  125. 

Maroon  58,  121. 

Marseilles  Soap  174. 

Measures  and  Weights  161. 

Metanil  Yellow  121. 

Methyl  Alkaline  Blue  (;4,  123. 

Methyl  Blue  62,  121. 

Methylene  Heliotrope  76,  125. 

Methylene  Violet  125. 

Methylene  Yellow  74,   125. 

Methyl  Violet  76,  78,  125. 

Milling  Blue  54,  121. 

Milling  Scarlet  22,  121. 

Milling  with  cold  water  9. 

Milling  with  hot  water  9. 

Milling  Yellow  14,  120. 

Mordant  dyestuffs  114. 

Mordanting  of  wool  136. 

Mordant  Yellow  80,  98,  130,  131,  135,  140. 

Muriatic  Acid  174. 


200 


N. 

Naphtalene  Blue  40,  42,  121. 
Naphtaline  Dark  Blue  42,  121. 
Naphtalene  Green  70,  122. 
Naphtol  Red  28,  121. 
Naphtol  Rubine  32,  121. 
Naphtol  Yellow  14,  120. 
Nassovia  Scarlet  22,  121. 
Navj'  Blue  62. 
Neutral  Blue  60,  121. 
Neutral  Violet  60,  121. 
New  Coccine  121. 
New  Magenta  76,  125. 
Nigrosine  52,  121. 
Nitric  Acid  174. 
Nitro-dyestufts  113. 


o. 

Old  dye  baths  118. 

Oleine  175. 

Olive  Oil  soap  177. 

Opal  Blue  62,  122. 

Orange  18,  20,  121. 

Orseille  (Archil)  Substitute  38. 

Orseilline  58,  121. 

Oxalate  of  Ammonia  175. 

Oxalic  Acid  175. 

Oxalic  acid  mordant  138. 

Oxydianil  Yellow  16,  121. 


Patent  Blue  66,  68,  70,  122. 

Patent  Green  70,  122. 

Patent  Marine  Blue  42,  121. 

Penetration  117. 

Permanganate  of  Potash  175. 

Peroxide  of  Hydrogene  17.5. 

Phenolphthaleine  176. 

Phloxine  72,  124. 

Phosphine  74,  125. 

Potash  176. 

Potash  Alum  176. 

Potassium  Bicarbonate  176. 

Pottassium  Bichromate  166. 

Potassium  Permanganate  176. 

Potting  process  0. 

Preparing  wool  by  means  of  tannin  157. 

Pure  Blue  62,  121. 

Purifying  of  water  185. 

Purple  Blue  (i2,  122. 

Pyrolignite  of  Iron  176. 


Quick  lime  169. 
Quick  lime  Test  12. 


Q- 


R. 


Red  121. 

Resorcine  Dyestuffs  113. 
Rocceline  28,  121. 
Rosazeine  58,  76,  121,  125. 
Rose  Bengale  72,  124. 
Rosolane  125. 


Safranine  76,  125. 

Sal  Ammoniac  176. 

Scarlet  28,  121. 

Scouring  with  soda  10. 

Silk  Wool  Black  50. 

Silk,  tinting  of,  in  an  acid  bath  5. 

Soap  176. 

Soap  bath  125. 

Soda  177. 

Soda  Lye  177. 

Soda  Test  12. 

Soda  Vat  145. 

Sodium  Acetate  162. 

Sodium  Bichromate  178. 

.Sodium  Bisulphate  178. 

Sodium  Bisulphite  178. 

Sodium  Borate  178. 

Sodium  Carbonate  178. 

Sodium  Chlorate  178. 

Sodium  Chloride  ll><. 

Sodium  Hydrosulphite  179. 

Sodium  Hydroxide  179. 

Sodium  Peroxide  179. 

Sodium  Phosphate  179. 

Sodium  Silicate  179. 

Sodium  Sulphate  179. 

Sodium  Thiosulphate  179. 

Soluble  Blue  62,  122. 

Specific  gravity,  tables  of,  196. 

Spirits  of  Ammonia  179. 

Starch  179. 

Stock  Vat  147. 

Storing  of  Dyestufts  116. 

Stoving  colours  125. 

Stoving  process  125. 

Sulphate  of  Alumina  180. 

Sulphate  of  Copper  180. 

Sulphate  of  h-on  180. 

Sulphate  of  Magnesia  180. 

Sulphate  of  Soda  ISO. 


Index. 


201 


Sulphocyanide  of  Ammonia  180. 
Sulphur  180. 
Sulphuric  Acid  180. 
Sulphurous  Acid  182. 

T. 

Tables  161  —  196. 

Tannin  156,  182. 

Tanning  of  wool  156. 

Tartar  136,  183. 

Tartar  Emetic  183. 

Tartaric  Acid  183. 

Tartar  Substitute  183. 

Thermometric  scales,  comparison  of  195. 

Tin  chloride  169. 

Tournant  Oil  183. 

Transverse  streaks  118. 

Treating  with  formaldehyde  157. 

Triphenylmethan-dyestuflfs  113. 

Turkey  Red  Oil  183. 


U. 


Urine  183. 


V. 

Vat  Dyeing  114,  142. 
Vesuvine  74,  123. 
Victoria  Blue  60,  78,  121,  125. 
Victoria  Rubine  28,  121. 
Victoria  Scarlet  24,  121. 
Victoria  Violet  38,  40,  121. 
Victoria  Yellow  18,  121. 
Violet  crystals  78,  125. 
Vigoureux  Black  96. 
Vigoureux  Brown  96. 
Vigoureux  Grey  96. 
Vigoureux  Red  96. 
Vigoureux  Yelbw  96. 


w. 


Water  183. 
Waterglass  186. 
Weights  187. 
Wet  steaming  9. 
Woad  186. 
Woad  Vat  145. 


Zinc  dust  186. 


z. 


N.  C  tTATC  UNIVDtSITY 


